My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Ufopolitics]

Yes Dear Friend...

Great and Thanks. I was thinking, Not that there is any problem with your setup, but just thinking that if one would make a longer rotor then that would make more torque, up to a point, where higher ohms in coil would defeat the benifit. Is this correct and if so does anyone know of a general working formula for diameter and length. I was looking at starter motors and the only thing I could see that was differant between the low end and the high end was the rotor length.????? So if that is true and your setup works well, we could then increase torque by just a longer rotor.
Dana

Hello Prochiro,

Absolutely right!...the LONGER the Armature Cylinder...not only the heavier the Torque...but, the MORE ENERGY they will produce at Output...Faraday, 1800's..."Is just the wire that cuts the Magnetic Field Lines at Perpendicular Angle, (the vertical ones along the armature length) the ones that actually generate current..."

In My arrangement, since it is based on same Laws...applies exactly same way...That is a "Universal Electromagnetic Law"...that applies whether Symmetrical or Asymmetrical Systems...

Now, torque is a "direct" consequence of Electromagnetic Fields Interactions...Interactions Forces given by the amount (Density and Potential) of currents flowing in Coils...gathered by Induction of the "specific" Vertical Elongated wires...Perpendicular to Magnetic Fields...

Where this wires are "Directly Proportional" to any calculation of Torque and Output...Now here, forget about the Witch Counter Effect "Deduction"...is dead a long time ago...

The same exact way applies to My Pulsed Stator design...the more number of this "Parallel to Armature Axis Wires" we consider in Design...the more we will collect at output...and the more Torque Machine will render.

Regards


UFO

[IndianaBoys]

Working in harmony in a safe space

Hello Pmazz,

...Ok, Ok...

You just gave me an "IDEA", along with a friend of mine who am driving crazy with "My Development"... ...and He also ask me if it could not be done this other way...and I believe that is what you are doing...

I have come up with a Design that is based on a simple "Mold Structure" to build Stators like a Production Line...All we need is the Tubing, yes, just a straight tubing that fits Armature at small air gap...We put the Mold Structure...we turn wire, pour some nice Hot Temp resin on it...or just wrap Tape...take Mold Structure Off...and done deal...NEXT ONE PLEASE....

I will make the detailed CAD Plans tonite...

@Indiana Boys: We got it!!...get ready!!...Mass production Line...Export-Import...


Regards


UFO

Ufopolitics & pmazz850,

That is GREAT NEWS!

Working in harmony in a safe space/enviroment allows for beneficial ideas to be expressed that will be of help to the many!

Way to go!!!!

IndianaBoys

[pmazz850]

My stator winding method

This is how I will wind my stator. Once its done, I will set the coil with some sort of glue/ epoxy, and remove the pins! What do you guys think?
IMAG0491.jpg picture by pmazz8501 - Photobucket

[Ufopolitics]

Excellent Idea-work!!!

This is how I will wind my stator. Once its done, I will set the coil with some sort of glue/ epoxy, and remove the pins! What do you guys think?
IMAG0491.jpg picture by pmazz8501 - Photobucket

No other words BUT....
AWESOME WORK!!

That is exactly the main idea, However, with this design You have made it "Production Line Type"...
No "fancy" crappy fins required...

Yes Pmazz, that is great, now get some good and strong strap (In Motors I have one that is made out of fiberglass...soft, but super-strong...then "sew" between in order to hold the Wire Pattern firmly and tight...Then lay resin on...

Beautiful!

Regards


Ufopolitics

[pmazz850]

Gothca!

I fully understand what your saying UFO!
But for this stator, the coil will be permanent. But as you say, if you use a straight smooth tube to wind it on then you could just pull the pins and slide your pre- fabbed stator coil off!

[pmazz850]

My only other for this motor will be a commutator. I'm attempting to make one but I don't know how it will hold up. Only one way to find out!
Or I need to find two donor five pole commutators. I would like to be able to make the motor 100% from scratch....well except for the brushes and the bearings!
I don't know but I have fun making stuff, just to be able to say "I built that" is satisfaction for me! And if I can kill a witch in the process, all the better!!!
Regards

[Turion]

Have you guys seen this?

ttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sQVCd6U0Tg8

Also, for those working with the MY1016 motor, I have found that you can fit the ENTIRE rebuild within the original casing IF you make the necessary mods and use an end cap off a second motor (the one that has the brush holder in it.)

So if the motor from Razor Scooter is EXACTLY the same as this, you can order that end cap, the brush holder, the brushes and the commutator from them and wouldn't have to cannibalize a second motor just for parts. But you need the bar code off a Razor Scooter motor to order these parts. I tried to contact the manufacturers of the MY1016 about getting parts and they suggested I buy a second motor. Anyway, here are the instructions for the modifications.

Steps for making the razor scooter motors work for UFO's build

Once you have the motor apart

1. Drill out the four pins that hold in the fiberglass brush plate and remove it.

2. Drill off the supports that held up the fiberglass brush plate. (The same four pins that held it in place.) so the inside of the casing is flat and smooth without those pins sticking up.

3. Cut a circle of lexan plastic out of 1/4 inch thick plastic (doesn't have to be exact.) It should be as large as it can possible be and still rotate freely between the four posts with the threaded holes in them that are used to hold the motor together. Make sure there is a center hole in it the same size as the hole in the fiberglass brush plate. It needs to be able to spin freely so that you can turn it to make your adjustments, but you do NOT want it to wobble around all over the place.

4. Remove the four brush holders by bending up the four tabs that hold them in place on the brush plate. Remove the brushes and springs from the brush holders. Mark 1/8 of an inch on the front (brush end) of each brush holder. Using a grinder, grind the brush holder off shorter by 1/8 of an inch. You will need to file it on the inside to remove burrs so the brushes will slide in and out freely. The brush holder (when secured in its NEW position) will now be short enough that it does not hit against the four posts with the threaded holes in them that are used to hold the motor together when you rotate the brush plate.

5. Using the original brush plate as a template, mark off the holes for the mounting tabs for the brush holder on the round piece of plastic you cut, but remember when you go to drill these holes, they must be 1/8 of an inch CLOSER to the center hole THAN WHAT YOU MARKED. Insert the tabs from the brush holders into the holes in the plastic plastic and epoxy into place.


This completes the modifications to the brush holder. The last step is to modify the casing so that you can easily turn the brush plate from the outside as WELL as hold it securely in place from the outside.

Drill severall holes in each hemisphere of the end casing. Drill them so close together that you form a curved slot. Put a screw (or a small bolt with a nut on it that you can tighten for tensionthrough from the outside into the plastic at the center of each slot, which will give you several degrees of rotation in either direction. If you rotate the plate until the screw hits against the end of the slot you made and you need MORE rotation, leave it there and drill a new screw hole in the center of the slot. Put in a new screw and remove the old one, and now you have additional rotation.You need to do this with BOTH slots at the same time of course.

There is enough room in the original casing for two brush plates, two commutators,

You will need to make these EXACT same modifications to the other end cap that contains the other brush plate you got from the other motor. In addition, you must drill all the way through the end plate where the four bolts that hold the motor together go, and use loner bolts or threaded rod to hold the motor together rather than the original four bolts.

That's it. The video is here: MY1016 Motor mod per UFO - YouTube

[Bob Smith]

Radiant Charging Question

@UFO or anyone else who knows:
1. Radiant Polarity Switch
I know the DVM is not reliable for measuring the output of these machines.
However, I've been putting one across the terminals of batteries as they charge from the machine output:

Generator negative output to negative batt post --
Generator positive output to positive batt post --
Positive probe of DVM to positive batt post --
Negative probe of DVM to negative batt post --

The voltage across the terminals shows up as negative while charging. THEN, after disconnecting the charging leads, the battery voltage swings into positive and starts to climb.

This makes sense in light of what you've said about radiant energy; that it behaves opposite to hot electricity. I believe this is why you had the diode blocking the hot in your "My Motors Got Me to Tap into Radiant Energy":

The readings of the Radiant Energy Electromagnetic Field, at all shows, the least signs to be collapsing, fading or shrinking, on the contrary, it is Superior in many parameters to the "Originating" One. And been Opposite in Polarity Orientation, is understood that its Output Voltage is reverse of ours.

Permanent Link to Post:
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post179093

Would it be helpful for me to use blocking diodes with the machine's generator output? (i.e., gen pos |< batt pos; gen neg >| batt neg)

2. Using Hi Temp Epoxy To Hold Wires in Place

I have tried this Machines at very High Currents...what has ever happened, is that machine came apart mechanically...wires flew out of armature and got stock inside...it kept spinning and separated many pieces inside...but it never burned out...

This happened to my 5 pole a few minutes ago. Once I've rewound it, I was thinking about using a little hi-temp epoxy to hold wires in place. How do you feel about this? Would this upset the balance of machine?

Thanks,
Bob

[IndianaBoys]

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IndianaBoys

[pmazz850]

Have you guys seen this?

ttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sQVCd6U0Tg8

Also, for those working with the MY1016 motor, I have found that you can fit the ENTIRE rebuild within the original casing IF you make the necessary mods and use an end cap off a second motor (the one that has the brush holder in it.)

So if the motor from Razor Scooter is EXACTLY the same as this, you can order that end cap, the brush holder, the brushes and the commutator from them and wouldn't have to cannibalize a second motor just for parts. But you need the bar code off a Razor Scooter motor to order these parts. I tried to contact the manufacturers of the MY1016 about getting parts and they suggested I buy a second motor. Anyway, here are the instructions for the modifications.

Steps for making the razor scooter motors work for UFO's build

Once you have the motor apart

1. Drill out the four pins that hold in the fiberglass brush plate and remove it.

2. Drill off the supports that held up the fiberglass brush plate. (The same four pins that held it in place.) so the inside of the casing is flat and smooth without those pins sticking up.

3. Cut a circle of lexan plastic out of 1/4 inch thick plastic (doesn't have to be exact.) It should be as large as it can possible be and still rotate freely between the four posts with the threaded holes in them that are used to hold the motor together. Make sure there is a center hole in it the same size as the hole in the fiberglass brush plate. It needs to be able to spin freely so that you can turn it to make your adjustments, but you do NOT want it to wobble around all over the place.

4. Remove the four brush holders by bending up the four tabs that hold them in place on the brush plate. Remove the brushes and springs from the brush holders. Mark 1/8 of an inch on the front (brush end) of each brush holder. Using a grinder, grind the brush holder off shorter by 1/8 of an inch. You will need to file it on the inside to remove burrs so the brushes will slide in and out freely. The brush holder (when secured in its NEW position) will now be short enough that it does not hit against the four posts with the threaded holes in them that are used to hold the motor together when you rotate the brush plate.

5. Using the original brush plate as a template, mark off the holes for the mounting tabs for the brush holder on the round piece of plastic you cut, but remember when you go to drill these holes, they must be 1/8 of an inch CLOSER to the center hole THAN WHAT YOU MARKED. Insert the tabs from the brush holders into the holes in the plastic plastic and epoxy into place.


This completes the modifications to the brush holder. The last step is to modify the casing so that you can easily turn the brush plate from the outside as WELL as hold it securely in place from the outside.

Drill severall holes in each hemisphere of the end casing. Drill them so close together that you form a curved slot. Put a screw (or a small bolt with a nut on it that you can tighten for tensionthrough from the outside into the plastic at the center of each slot, which will give you several degrees of rotation in either direction. If you rotate the plate until the screw hits against the end of the slot you made and you need MORE rotation, leave it there and drill a new screw hole in the center of the slot. Put in a new screw and remove the old one, and now you have additional rotation.You need to do this with BOTH slots at the same time of course.

There is enough room in the original casing for two brush plates, two commutators,

You will need to make these EXACT same modifications to the other end cap that contains the other brush plate you got from the other motor. In addition, you must drill all the way through the end plate where the four bolts that hold the motor together go, and use loner bolts or threaded rod to hold the motor together rather than the original four bolts.

That's it. The video is here: MY1016 Motor mod per UFO - YouTube

Turion,
Way cool man, I like it. Are you drilling out the end caps for the shaft to pass through? Makes a nice compact motor!

[pmazz850]

winding question

@ufo,
When you wind this stator and you get over to L6, do you wind 30 turns, one set of 15 for first layer and one set of 15 turns for second layer?
Also you said its bifilar, so when done winding, just connect end of one coil to start of other (traditional bifilar)?
Thanks,
Regards.

[Bob Smith]

Quote from Indianaboys

Here is a great epoxy resource. If they do not have, they will blend it up, just ask.

Thanks IB. If I can't find it up here in Canuckistan, I'll know where to look.
Keep your stick on the ice
Bob

[sputnik]

commutator

@pmazz850:
Shortly before you announced your build of the Delrin armature I went looking for ideas like that. I stumbled upon this most wonderfully detailed account of building a motor TOTALLY from scratch (well, he didn't actually draw the wire)

There he gives one idea for making a commutator from scratch. I have imagined just using ordinary copper pipe, gluing it to a piece of wood (or Delrin?), should be easy for you with your lathe. JB Weld claims that it can withstand a continuous 500F temperature (IndianaBoys, that beats the high temp resin you posted?). But I think JBWeld has metal particles in it, which probably precludes it from armatures/stators. Anyhow, it seems there are resins that go at least to 1200F, I have seen high temp cable protector "conduits" made from fiberglass & resin rated at that. Then just slot out the individual elements. Probably you have already considered this.

@all:
The motor build link posted is an absolutely fascinating account, I highly recommend it (it is a witch based design ). He also details making molds and pouring molten aluminum in them. One of the best how-tos on anything I have seen.

[mariuscivic]

Hello everyone!
I can see that is geting pretty serious things around here and this thanks to UFO!
Still playing with my 3 pole rotor.
Made a small vid; rpm is more than 24 000 ( tooked it to 40 000 but screaming to much and unsafe)
Used 23V and 350mA when running ( around 8W)
Charging the big cap will reflect on input power until it reaches 24-25V; after that allmost no effect on input( 3-5mA more after passing 25V)
When discharging it input power goes down from 350mA to 200mA
For me this is a very good result for now. I like it!!
This time no sparks on the brushes and the coils stays worm (hand temperature)

big cap charging and discharging - YouTube

[Turion]

pmazz850,

Yeah, I forgot to mention that last step of drilling the hole in the end cap so the shaft will pass through. It sticks out just a little less than the original, so you CAN connect to the shaft by putting on the gear that went with it to chain drive another motor.

I am finishing up my second one so will have one for motor and one for generator. I have one from Razor Scooter on order so I can see if they are the exact same motor. Will let everyone know.

I wouldn't advise getting these Razor scooter motors for any SERIOUS work. The rubber bushing that goes around the end bearing means there is some degree of play here, no matter how fractional, so if the shaft is stressed in one direction hard enough, it could cause the armature to hit against the stator. On the original, the end that would be stressed is in the solid housing, but you can't use that end in the mod. I am looking for a piece of pipe or bushing that will take the place of the rubber and give me the solid fit I want for my bearings....just a word to the wise.

Dave