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  • wantomake
    replied
    Update

    Ufo and ALL,
    Just quick update on the old generator modification.

    Got the two commutators installed on shaft wound G1 to see how it would fit.
    The 18 awg will be 4 winds per slot and seems Will be ok.

    Still this is exciting and anticipate the results,
    wantomake

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  • prochiro
    replied
    UFO

    Looking at my commutators, I see that making a new set of brush holders is going to be reeeeeeeeeel fun. Keeping that much power seperate by what looks like one and one/quarter commutator strips is also going to be soooooo important.
    Dana

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  • prochiro
    replied
    Midaztouch
    They should strengthen as in two magnets together will be stronger than one, I believe. Only a test will prove how much dynamic effect there will be.
    Dana

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  • Midaztouch
    replied
    UFO,

    It sounds like a good Theory to me. It's evolving.

    By adjusting the gen brushes adjacent to the the motor brushes without overlapping comms. Do you think that the motor north fields will combine with gen north fields, creating larger and stronger north fields?.... Or will they repel one another, keeping their same strength?



    Keep it Clean and Green
    Midaz

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  • Ufopolitics
    replied
    All North Machines Generator Settings

    Hello to All,

    Ok, like I mentioned before, I believe that if we play with the Generating Brushes in this type of Machines We could get better results ...(and all of this is just "Theory" up to now, cause I have NOT done it yet...BUT, I will for sure next week)

    1-First, let's analyze the way Generator Brushes comes from Symmetric Factory (ORIGINAL SET UP:G1)...(And Model shown is a 16 Pole , just like the one Laserjo have modified):

    [IMG][/IMG]

    Ok, so I have defined G1 and G1' as the way they come from factory, meaning at 90º related to Motor Brushes...
    And if we take a closer look at the Coil Groups they will be "sucking" Energy from,... are G5-G6 on one side and at 180º apart, from G13-G14.

    Now, we must realize this Coil Groups are ALWAYS NORTH...even when collapsing, they are collapsing North Coils...meaning Weaker Norths than the ones that are being energized like G1-G2 & G9-G10...so what happens when we apply a load to Generator?...even a Battery to be charged and even connecting Gen Coils in SERIES?

    When We apply a Load we get a similar, not too strong as a typical Symmetric Generator...but we do still get a reduction of RPM's...plus an increase in Amp Draw at Input (I am getting from 4.0 increase to 8.0 amps approx)...in order to disburse more amps at Output.

    I believe when we short this Generating Coils with any load, they become "STRONGER" NORTHS than when collapsing without shorting them by loads.

    And If You look again at the POSITIONS of G5-G6 & G13-G14, related to the FOUR STATORS...and make them Energized Norths...You will realize they are counter rotating the normal rotation R ...Meaning, OPPOSING to R...they are being pulled backwards by South Stators attraction...and ALSO, being repelled by Norths Stators...on both sides.

    If They would energize South with Load on...Motor RPM's should increase...or acceleration under load, like we observed on previous smaller five poles.

    Now here is the proposal I want to test:

    [IMG][/IMG]

    I will move GEN Brushes like seen above with G2 and G2'...according to Rotation R, from where they were originally...and as close as I could, towards Input Brushes, as shown above.

    Now, if You guys notice...We are pulling from G8 and G16 at other end...now make them stronger North...and then see what happens?

    Two out of three of those Groups Coils are passing North Stator Bisectors...PLUS getting closer to South Bisectors...right?...right.

    NOW, One main thing to have in mind is that We can NOT allow contact simultaneously between Motor Brush contacting SAME Commutator Element as Generator Brushes...SO, this would be our LIMITS when bringing them closer to each others.

    Now, I have rotated Armature, according to Rotation R...in order to see Generator Brushes Touching Two (2) Elements at same time...and seen what happens with Motor Brushes and effects against Stators...in Diagram below:

    [IMG][/IMG]

    We see that still, IF BOTH Generating Coils enhance, strengthen North Polarity by loading them...is still perfectly assisting rotation.

    Now, on a SECOND NOTE: By moving, displacing Generator Brushes this way, we will be allowing all Coil Groups to SWEEP A MUCH WIDER ANGLE through Stators...meaning, they will charge/induce more this way.

    All this is Theory -so far- until proven otherwise......and like I said before...only making it happen We will all know if it works or not.


    Regards to All



    Ufopolitics
    Last edited by Ufopolitics; 08-10-2014, 09:17 PM.

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  • Ufopolitics
    replied
    About Running and Charging...Part 1

    Hello to All,

    What Laserjo did was a great idea, and I have been suggesting and showing this connections since our previous N-S Pairs...and it is to connect in SERIES our Output...while Input is connected in PARALLEL...and, of course, I am referring to Four Stator Eight Wires Out, Machines.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    The Diode is preventing from Battery to Energize L2-L4 Outputs...so Outward Energy Flow is just running INTO Battery.

    The only problem is that We are using/stressing same battery for two functions (Run+Charge)...and as it has been written here before...it is not recommended.

    The proper way is to have Two separated Battery Banks:

    [IMG][/IMG]

    Now, here We can set two meters (as shown above) that would verify -clearly and Independently- Voltages at running, plus Voltages at Charging Banks.

    We could add Amp Meters on both independent circuits, plus Loads at the charging side and observe the decrease of RPM's would be minimal, only a couple to a hundred RPM's...depending on the load type (I have done it with Incandescent Bulbs, as very critical short circuit for heavy duty testing)

    And Yes, as Midaz mentioned, adding Supercaps as Hybrids...to both Battery Banks will do enhance performance.

    And Yes, of course, We could also design a circuit where We could switch Battery Banks, While Not Stopping Machine at all. by using two simple DPDT/CenterOff Switch, could do just this operation(s)...The "Center Off" attribute is to stop Charging when Batteries are fully replenished...

    I will do that Circuit and upload it soon...


    Regards to All


    Ufopolitics

    Leave a comment:


  • Ufopolitics
    replied
    Laserjo Set Up

    Originally posted by laserjo View Post
    hi all ufo this is a up date i have wound my motor 16 pole 3 pole 10 winds each
    thats max about .5 .6 ohms wire is .75 the motor is my1020 but has the inside
    of 2 my1025 motors becouse they are 12 mm shaft ok it works 12.7 in 17.3 out
    becouse i dont have a proper diagram on how to wire it up. i did this join 2 red wires from front com together and join to bat + join one black wire from front com to 1 red wire back com one black wire from front com through amp meter to bat - take other red wire from back com put diode on it back to bat + wooo
    it not only runs it charges its self i like it.
    Hello Laserjo,

    First, many thanks for coming back here to post your results, I have done dozens of Diagrams for people I never heard off ever, again...but is Ok, am glad We still have Members like You that do come back...

    If all the ones I have rendered so many, several diagrams, have done what you have done, not wasted so much time in BLA,BLA,BLA...and get TO BUILD...and so fast response, like You...We would be very ahead of where we all are standing right now.

    Many Thanks, and am glad about your test results.

    Below, is a Diagram of what I understood you did as connections...based on your explanation above plus the Main Picture you have posted below Diagram.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

    The only thing you forgot to mention in your above text description...were the Two Bottom, Rear Black wires joint together and back to Battery Negative. ..but no sweat, I found them on picture...


    Great work Laserjo, and many thanks.

    I have some tips on adjusting properly the Output Brushes on this type of windings...so We get even more Energy on the Output...be next.


    Regards


    Ufopolitics
    Last edited by Ufopolitics; 08-10-2014, 02:12 PM.

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  • laserjo
    replied
    hi dana no their is no caps but i have found the right diagram its the four stator series-series parallel caps.split battery banks meters set up om on it now

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  • prochiro
    replied
    laserjo

    Thanks for the photo. I will try to figure it out after I get back home today. Did you happen to take readings of battery after say an hour or so? Also to confirm, you did not have any caps in this circuit, correct?

    Dana

    Leave a comment:


  • laserjo
    replied
    hi dana try this link
    My Ufo All North Motor Photo by laserjohnny1 | Photobucket
    when i said it was charging if you tune it to run under 2 amps in 1 hour the battery went from 12.34 to 12.36 so it went up a little.

    Leave a comment:


  • DadHav
    replied
    Originally posted by laserjo View Post
    hi all ufo this is a up date i have wound my motor 16 pole 3 pole 10 winds each
    thats max about .5 .6 ohms wire is .75 the motor is my1020 but has the inside
    of 2 my1025 motors becouse they are 12 mm shaft ok it works 12.7 in 17.3 out
    becouse i dont have a proper diagram on how to wire it up. i did this join 2 red wires from front com together and join to bat + join one black wire from front com to 1 red wire back com one black wire from front com through amp meter to bat - take other red wire from back com put diode on it back to bat + wooo
    it not only runs it charges its self i like it.
    Hello Laser. Could you explain a little further what "It charges itself" means and how you came to that conclusion? You must have done a really good job.
    J

    Leave a comment:


  • prochiro
    replied
    laserjo

    it is good that you have your motor running but from your description, we have no idea just how you hooked it up. Please indicate your wiring simular to motor diagrams above.
    Dana

    Leave a comment:


  • laserjo
    replied
    hi all ufo this is a up date i have wound my motor 16 pole 3 pole 10 winds each
    thats max about .5 .6 ohms wire is .75 the motor is my1020 but has the inside
    of 2 my1025 motors becouse they are 12 mm shaft ok it works 12.7 in 17.3 out
    becouse i dont have a proper diagram on how to wire it up. i did this join 2 red wires from front com together and join to bat + join one black wire from front com to 1 red wire back com one black wire from front com through amp meter to bat - take other red wire from back com put diode on it back to bat + wooo
    it not only runs it charges its self i like it.

    Leave a comment:


  • wantomake
    replied
    I did miss something

    Ok. Now I have it. I missed you saying "combine the two caps to get the sum of the input voltage". And your battery pack was at 100° f like mine. Motor was at same temp also. And I noticed the battery meter started to drop in voltage at the end. But all in all I got the same results!! Yes!!!

    Sorry will calm down and pay closer attention to videos,
    wantomake

    Leave a comment:


  • wantomake
    replied
    Testing

    Hello to All,
    Finished all adjustments and rewinding the RS motor to 12 turns and reset brushes to best position. Also bought 5F 2.5 volt supercaps and connected as Ufo did in the posted circuits. Still the AA batteries get hot and drain down. Even with the addition of thicker wire and connectors for battery holders.

    What did I miss?

    Ufo didn't your power source increase on the video? I need to go back and watch again . I missed something.

    wantomake

    Leave a comment:

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