My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[wantomake]

success

Thanks Ufopolitics and Dana,
Did all as you guys said and it did start up on its own. Even turned with .8 volts on a AA battery.

Have been reading and studying older post and videos to get familiar with the test you have been trying. Hope this doesn't slow the progress of this thread. I know I can't contribute anything new, but will help if I can.

Great to watch history be rewritten.
wantomake

[DadHav]

John don't stop. You need to catchup! We went over this stuff months ago. You came on your own to comment on a small segment but I like your experience. So, I asked you to stay here. Thank you sir!.. I don't have as much experience as you but I've been following this very closely for the last few months. Now you are starting to see thing that I've seen and they leave you with thoughts/questions like...



There is a lot more going on with the A1 Mo-Gens! Build that 5pole Goldmine Motor with a thicker gauge and N52 magnets! That motor will be very high torque and crazy RPMs for your RC! A1 Mo-Gens love high voltage!!

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

Ohhh! I've been here for 2yrs! I'm tired of clowns taking cheap shots. That dude was rude and he need to get stomped with steel toe boots. Good job UFO!

Hello Richie. I have some Goldmine motors and liked the looks of a new one that looks like it has bearings and a large shaft, but after finishing the RS motor and doing some testing, I don't think I want to work on another motor for a while. I was able to duplicate UFO's tests in the videos pretty closely but as you know I always have completely different interpretations of what's going on and I'm not willing to spend pages arguing with anyone over a five dollar motor and this concept anymore. I'll just tag along for a while and see how things go. By the way Richie you mentioned a hybrid Goldmine motor with NN and Neo, has anyone ever done this or is it something that you think would be a good venture?
J

[Ufopolitics]

Thanks Dana,
That makes sense. Ok. I just returned from RS and purchased last of magnetic wire. Will rewind and try again. Did learn the new rewind method from this. And not to reuse old wire.

Back to the shop,
wantomake

Hello Wantomake,

Like Dana said, it could be mechanical binding ...OR...Electromagnetic Binding, caused by not positioning right your brushes, and firing coils at a point they tend stick to stators..

Must realize that this kind of winding, specifically in the RS Motor, uses the Brush position the SAME WAY as it comes from factory...NOT like the N-S Pairs we did before we had to modify...so make sure to check on that.

Regards


Ufopolitics

[wantomake]

makes sense

Thanks Dana,
That makes sense. Ok. I just returned from RS and purchased last of magnetic wire. Will rewind and try again. Did learn the new rewind method from this. And not to reuse old wire.

Back to the shop,
wantomake

[prochiro]

wantomake

If it is buzzing it sounds as if you have a mechanical bind. Does the shaft turn freely ?
If that shaft is free then there is an error in winding. Also that Ohm reading is not going to work. Transformer wire is same as motor wire. Your Ohms should be much higher. You have no coil resistance and thus no working coil. Go back to RS rebuild data and see what range of Ohms was recommended.

Dana

[wantomake]

5 pole

Hello Finn,

I saw this Motor below on the site above...

MFA General Purpose Motor 19000rpm | Maplin


They have several with same picture, different prices, different top speeds...

Just get the cheapest ones for your tests and learning...since you will need Two of them.

I believe they are Five(5) Poles, and I see easy tabs bent to take apart brush caps...so making an All North Five Winding, would be A good experience and easy to build, in order to compare even with the more expensive and fastest ones on that site...

The hardest part on this build...is to cut the end ring of one and add it/solder it/glue it to the other cut one...since this operation must come out perfectly straight so no magnet binding with rotor...once you assemble the whole thing.

So, main part here is to FIRST DO all the mechanical assembly...test that is spinning free, not rubbing...with magnets on, it would have normal drag...then do the winding.

Use 26 awg (look for mm equivalent) from 8 to 12 turns per coil , the more the better...(2 Coils in the Pair...)

This Video will show you basically the winding shape in 3D of One (1) Pair composed of Two (2) Coils...The whole motor have Five Pairs...and disregard the spec's of 30 awg.

The Plan View for ALL N is below:

[IMG][/IMG]

This video has the right spec's in the beginning (8TX2 @ Pair & awg=26)...However, in latest videos I did it with (12TX2 : 26 awg)

It is better to start playing with small toys like this, before going into Imperial...


Regards


Ufopolitics

Ufopolitics,
I finished the RS 5 pole Sunday and did exactly as you said to build it. But couldn't get it to run. It turned out really nice for my rough building skills.
The ohms is .05 per coil , 12 turns x2.

I used wire that was .40 mm(26 awg) but from an old transformer. Does it make a difference not being magnetic wire from RS?

It would make transformer buzzing noise as connected to battery. Maybe will rewind with RS wire as you stated.
What am I missing?

Winding, testing, learning, having fun.
wantomake

[Midaztouch]

UFO, I agree with you 100 percent. This needs to stop here. I would say we both stated our case and it needs to be put to rest. You do have much bigger things to worry about. On another note I put my motor together and was surprised at how nicely the motor went from 3 volts to 12 with the coils in series. There was not that much change in current draw as I went up in voltage. while I was trying to final adjust I started drawing more current and knew the gaps between the commutator pieces were slightly filling with carbon. I think I have to make another motor. This one has run it's pace I think. I have Goldmine motors and might get to them later but I'm not sure it's worth it with you and your builders being so far ahead with the larger motors and more serious concepts.
Good luck everyone.
John

John don't stop. You need to catchup! We went over this stuff months ago. You came on your own to comment on a small segment but I like your experience. So, I asked you to stay here. Thank you sir!.. I don't have as much experience as you but I've been following this very closely for the last few months. Now you are starting to see thing that I've seen and they leave you with thoughts/questions like...

On another note I put my motor together and was surprised at how nicely the motor went from 3 volts to 12 with the coils in series. There was not that much change in current draw as I went up in voltage.

There is a lot more going on with the A1 Mo-Gens! Build that 5pole Goldmine Motor with a thicker gauge and N52 magnets! That motor will be very high torque and crazy RPMs for your RC! A1 Mo-Gens love high voltage!!

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

Ohhh! I've been here for 2yrs! I'm tired of clowns taking cheap shots. That dude was rude and he need to get stomped with steel toe boots. Good job UFO!

[DadHav]

I'm out of here. I'll be wearing my iron clad jockstrap when UFO comes to town to have his motor tested. He might bring that portable de-maler along with him and come after me. Very entertaining plus a LiPo battery short with no fire. The kind of guy UFO did this for is a different kind of guy. I've had hundreds of them and usually when you look at their profile this is what their hobby is.
John

Oh I forgot to mention. If you decide to go after that guy instead of me, I'll let you borrow my portable De-Maler so you can have one in each hand:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0q8...3eiTAh-wthzDm2

[DadHav]

@ All

In case you missed it. An individual commented on the last Vid. He rudely said that the torque of the all north 20 pole very weak and could be stopped with his private member.

Here is UFO's reply vid using 11volts. Ouch!!!
https://m.youtube.com/watch?list=UUd...&v=kZgRgCY0oqw

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

I'm out of here. I'll be wearing my iron clad jockstrap when UFO comes to town to have his motor tested. He might bring that portable de-maler along with him and come after me. Very entertaining plus a LiPo battery short with no fire. The kind of guy UFO did this for is a different kind of guy. I've had hundreds of them and usually when you look at their profile this is what their hobby is.
John

[DadHav]

John,

I really do NOT have the time nor the patience to continue with you in this long posts over something exposed a long back.

I am into a bigger Machine now, and it will have RADICALLY separated Input from Generation Gates. I wrote about this before also.
So, am not "PAUSING" now that I got this in working process.

The Radio Shack Motor was a demo, like it was before, a small demo to show results, speed, and yes it DOES GENERATES AS WELL...not believe it does?...that is COMPLETELY your problem, not mine.

Now You are addressing my people here and telling them I have given false results.

I have simply shown all we have observed/witnessed on all this videos, period.

Please do not get me upset, let's finish this "series of old posts exchange" and let me keep going forward.

Do all testing as you please with the 4.99 USD RS Motor...


Ufopolitics

UFO, I agree with you 100 percent. This needs to stop here. I would say we both stated our case and it needs to be put to rest. You do have much bigger things to worry about. On another note I put my motor together and was surprised at how nicely the motor went from 3 volts to 12 with the coils in series. There was not that much change in current draw as I went up in voltage. while I was trying to final adjust I started drawing more current and knew the gaps between the commutator pieces were slightly filling with carbon. I think I have to make another motor. This one has run it's pace I think. I have Goldmine motors and might get to them later but I'm not sure it's worth it with you and your builders being so far ahead with the larger motors and more serious concepts.
Good luck everyone.
John

[Midaztouch]

UFO

Wait a minute! John has every right to ask questions and oppose objections to what we are doing. He's asking the questions that the doubters would ask and the readers need an objective outlook! This can NOT be a one way dialogue.... Or people will start pushing away again.

I know that they come at you from many directions but you can handle it. Be cool! It's SHOWTIME!

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[Midaztouch]

@ All

In case you missed it. An individual commented on the last Vid. He rudely said that the torque of the all north 20 pole very weak and could be stopped with his private member.

Here is UFO's reply vid using 11volts. Ouch!!!
https://m.youtube.com/watch?list=UUd...&v=kZgRgCY0oqw

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[Ufopolitics]

In a way I am a truth seeker. Does anyone here have a problem with that? Since the terrible treatment I've had here looking for the truth and tests that tell the truth and actually prove concept beyond a doubt are you all going to bombard me with insults and make UFO happy now?. Are you going to laugh at the little smile and laugh things he adds after a coments? Or are you going to start questioning things yourself? Everything going on on the last few pages should be very simple and ended very easily. Is the load running from the battery or the motor/generator. You say there are many replications. Yes, I must have missed them. are they on your list of successful replications? Anyone should be able to replicate this and light the bulb but how many know why the bulb is lighting? I will run the tests you suggest. I had to break sharp edges and recoat the RS armature after stripping the wire and potting off. But here again with your comment about spikes are you saying now that bulb is lighting or enhance by that. 50 turns on a little core like that? OK I'll be happy to make that test but I think the burden of proof should be on you not me. You can not convince me of being wrong on this. If you disconnect the wires as I show the bulb will light, if you remove the magnets the motor will be still and the bulb will light, If you safely stall the motor and measure voltage across whatever is there for a load you will find it is coming from the battery. I don't have to do a single test to believe this is 100 percent true. How can you let people believe the bulb is being lit from anything other than the battery? I'll say there may be some side effects from circuit interaction but the fact remains it's deceiving. I ask again, is this where you are going to hook up loads on these devices? What good does it do if the increase at the power supply goes up as much as adding the bulb in parallel to the battery? When are you going to show a real life application that shows any motor driving something farther than the original motor. Why do you make this all so hard when that's all you have to do. I would love to see it and drop the confetti!
John

John,

I really do NOT have the time nor the patience to continue with you in this long posts over something exposed a long back.

I am into a bigger Machine now, and it will have RADICALLY separated Input from Generation Gates. I wrote about this before also.
So, am not "PAUSING" now that I got this in working process.

The Radio Shack Motor was a demo, like it was before, a small demo to show results, speed, and yes it DOES GENERATES AS WELL...not believe it does?...that is COMPLETELY your problem, not mine.

Now You are addressing my people here and telling them I have given false results.

I have simply shown all we have observed/witnessed on all this videos, period.

Please do not get me upset, let's finish this "series of old posts exchange" and let me keep going forward.

Do all testing as you please with the 4.99 USD RS Motor...


Ufopolitics

[DadHav]

Of course not, I wrote it above, your channel is already "millionaire in views" without any of my work on it.



OMG!, You are a "Real Truth Seeker"...




Am glad You recognize it you should not have done it...but you did, and I answered.



Now you are underestimating the replications of all test done on this Thread, John.

Many have done those tests here and have posted results...you're kind of late...or have not read prior posts.




Take a look at the video below:

ACCELERATION UNDER LOAD NO BS

You see things the way you want to see them, John...and it is always at your convenience, according to your position, which has always been the same.

[IMG][/IMG]

The Bulb is connected in Parallel to L2, and in series to L1 and Battery...and ACTUALLY L1 and L2 are NOT just One Coil, or One Inductor.

When you are asking me to take magnets off and make a mechanical connection between Bulb and Power Source through brushes-comm connect...You are revealing here, that you are completely ignoring and disregarding the constant discharge into this circuit from Both Gates L1,L2 that have FIVE Coils on Rotor, continuously collapsing at very high RPM's...and this is the most essential side to observe here...maybe you are not "seeing" this...

You are looking at this test/connections/circuit in general, as if they all would be in PAUSE, STANDING STILL...and it is NOT AT ALL like you are seeing this Tests.

Below am trying to show you in standing still what it would like in electronics...

[IMG][/IMG]

The Commutators and Elements are doing the work like FET's would do, in an oscillating signal from shaft to Gates, Drains would be turning On-Off Inductors all time during rotation...Source is connected same as shown.

Now take all the four FET's Off and see what the circuit does?

But maybe You are not capable to see beyond a Stand Still Circuit...then that is not my problem, but yours.

Why don't you propose or do it yourself, smarter tests, by adding a Scope at Terminals in discussion/doubts?...so you could see the real spikes generated while running..and NOT when PSU and Bulb are on/lit and motor is disconnected or stopped?


Ufopolitics

In a way I am a truth seeker. Does anyone here have a problem with that? Since the terrible treatment I've had here looking for the truth and tests that tell the truth and actually prove concept beyond a doubt are you all going to bombard me with insults and make UFO happy now?. Are you going to laugh at the little smile and laugh things he adds after a coments? Or are you going to start questioning things yourself? Everything going on on the last few pages should be very simple and ended very easily. Is the load running from the battery or the motor/generator. You say there are many replications. Yes, I must have missed them. are they on your list of successful replications? Anyone should be able to replicate this and light the bulb but how many know why the bulb is lighting? I will run the tests you suggest. I had to break sharp edges and recoat the RS armature after stripping the wire and potting off. But here again with your comment about spikes are you saying now that bulb is lighting or enhance by that. 50 turns on a little core like that? OK I'll be happy to make that test but I think the burden of proof should be on you not me. You can not convince me of being wrong on this. If you disconnect the wires as I show the bulb will light, if you remove the magnets the motor will be still and the bulb will light, If you safely stall the motor and measure voltage across whatever is there for a load you will find it is coming from the battery. I don't have to do a single test to believe this is 100 percent true. How can you let people believe the bulb is being lit from anything other than the battery? I'll say there may be some side effects from circuit interaction but the fact remains it's deceiving. I ask again, is this where you are going to hook up loads on these devices? What good does it do if the increase at the power supply goes up as much as adding the bulb in parallel to the battery? When are you going to show a real life application that shows any motor driving something farther than the original motor. Why do you make this all so hard when that's all you have to do. I would love to see it and drop the confetti!
John

[Ufopolitics]

Wow, you say I'm sweet?. Oh no you were talking about my approach. Well you actually said a lot here that had nothing to do with the issue at hand but I'll take from there. I don't need any kind of help from you, your technology or the video I made about it, to have a popular video channel.

Of course not, I wrote it above, your channel is already "millionaire in views" without any of my work on it.

I am not here to diminish anything you say or do, and I earn very little from the hard work I put into the channel. I'm here to make sure you represent the truth in what you say and put on videos.

OMG!, You are a "Real Truth Seeker"...

Forget about the batteries and that video all together. I'll apologize for even making a comment on it. What you showed was so preliminary that I should never have said anything yet.

Am glad You recognize it you should not have done it...but you did, and I answered.

I was asked here by a few of your own and I told them I shouldn't do what they asked but here I am. In the past almost everything I brought up was accurate. One of your own whose integrity would never be challenged said my video on the RS motor was spot on. The video was objective and no matter what you say about the windings or anything else a very simple test showed the stock RS motor to be able to do more work, and that there was no way to use the generator coil without current draw that would be expected from the load. Ask another professional to give you an opinion. How about the people testing your motors, they'd give you the truth. You can get everyone's dander worked up and turn the troops against me but I'm not doing anything here that, if I'm right, won't save your friends a lot of trouble on wild goose chases.

Now you are underestimating the replications of all test done on this Thread, John.

Many have done those tests here and have posted results...you're kind of late...or have not read prior posts.

Did your videos intent to make people think the bulb was lighting from the potential of the motor/generator? this is what's important to everyone here. This makes it look like your motor doesn't loose RPM when it receives a load. Do you still claim this? I know you mentioned about the wire connections, and I say the connection in my diagram is a legitimate test to prove the load runs from the battery and not the motor, I'll propose another test. Remove the magnets from the motor and connect the bulb. Turn the rotor until the brush alignment is right and the bulb lights. If the bulb lights then it will be obvious that I'm doing nothing other than trying to help you and the others here. I haven't tested this myself and give you the opportunity to test and tell me if I'm wrong. You can't go on forever having everyone believe everything you say without proper proof. If everyone here wants to go on that way then:
Just ask me if I care.
John
PS. I hadn't planned on making another video unless I couldn't explain myself. I wanted something positive to show first as well.

Take a look at the video below:

ACCELERATION UNDER LOAD NO BS

You see things the way you want to see them, John...and it is always at your convenience, according to your position, which has always been the same.

[IMG][/IMG]

The Bulb is connected in Parallel to L2, and in series to L1 and Battery...and ACTUALLY L1 and L2 are NOT just One Coil, or One Inductor.

When you are asking me to take magnets off and make a mechanical connection between Bulb and Power Source through brushes-comm connect...You are revealing here, that you are completely ignoring and disregarding the constant discharge into this circuit from Both Gates L1,L2 that have FIVE Coils on Rotor, continuously collapsing at very high RPM's...and this is the most essential side to observe here...maybe you are not "seeing" this...

You are looking at this test/connections/circuit in general, as if they all would be in PAUSE, STANDING STILL...and it is NOT AT ALL like you are seeing this Tests.

Below am trying to show you in standing still what it would like in electronics...

[IMG][/IMG]

The Commutators and Elements are doing the work like FET's would do, in an oscillating signal from shaft to Gates, Drains would be turning On-Off Inductors all time during rotation...Source is connected same as shown.

Now take all the four FET's Off and see what the circuit does?

But maybe You are not capable to see beyond a Stand Still Circuit...then that is not my problem, but yours.

Why don't you propose or do it yourself, smarter tests, by adding a Scope at Terminals in discussion/doubts?...so you could see the real spikes generated while running..and NOT when PSU and Bulb are on/lit and motor is disconnected or stopped?


Ufopolitics