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  • Ufopolitics
    replied
    Originally posted by Midaztouch View Post
    UFO, Dana & Team

    For example, maxwell 160v modules.Even thou the farad capacitance drops to the floor @ 7farad, the 160v module will still discharge 170amps max.


    What do you think?

    Keep It Clean and Green
    Midaz

    Hello Midaz,

    I separated your comment on that Maxwell Module on this post...so I comment strictly on my opinion about it....since it is important We understand how to build/assemble Supercaps Modules.

    In my Opinion: Very "Poor Thought" Architecture.

    Maxwell Supercap Module of 160V and 7 Farads...SEVEN FARADS!!...That Capacitance, at 150 Amps burst delivery...will not even spin motor for nano seconds friend...that is very low farads...that will not last nothing...nada!

    The Right Architecture when building Supercaps Modules, is to add several Parallel Single Cells (2.7V Units) (based on our demand, and calculating number to use of course) at CELL PACKS to then be added (in reality subtracted..) in Series connection for a bigger Farad rating at the Module End Total Output without even touching Voltage rates...

    The same Design Architecture is used with Lithium Ion "Super Modules" for EV's like Tesla and Leaf...

    Quoted from Tesla Model S Wikipedia Battery description:

    The 85 kW·h battery pack contains 7,104 lithium-ion battery cells in 16 modules wired in series (14 in the flat section and two stacked on the front).Each module contains six groups of 74 cells wired in parallel; the six groups are then wired in series within the module.
    Regards Midaz...


    Ufopolitics

    Leave a comment:


  • Midaztouch
    replied
    Originally posted by Ufopolitics View Post
    Hello Midaz,

    Now, coming back to our systems...as Kogs mentioned above, BOTH, the Supply Battery Banks and the Supercaps Banks need to be balanced to about same values/capacity ratings.
    Hi UFO,

    Agreed but we can never go over the max voltage rating for the ultra capacitors.

    For Imperial manufacturing We could do a lesser turn coil groups that will run (in series/cross fired banks) with very small battery/capacitor banks. Heavier Gauge, Less Turns...Higher Electromagnetic Fields, very fast charging ratios.
    I can't wait to see the redesign!

    What We are leading towards...is to build Motors that are powered by ridiculously small power supply banks...reducing enormously weight and size for a very light weight EV...or an "FV" (Flying Vehicle)...

    Once We achieve that stage...just a few revolutions from Machine will fully regenerate our Bank Systems...in just a "Snap" of our fingers...to a point We will need to electronically stop Generation and redirect it to secondary alternate banks...and...since they are so small...We could carry many of them "on board" with the proper circuitry.




    Kind Regards


    Ufopolitics
    Yes, I think that electro magnets would be best for the A1 Mo-Gen. Would it be better for a Flying machine to use a brushless MAG3??

    Yeah, the 160v caps banks weigh 5kgs each, super light weight! Since it has a relatively low farad rating, max 7farad. They could be charged and discharged in seconds while maintaining enough amps in the system to keep the motor at full power continuously under load.... Could you imagine the RPMs @ 160v!? Holy *hit it's going to be high!

    Why do you want to store energy in the side banks? Are you thinking about connecting some auxiliary equipment to it? Like the electro magnets, stereo, air conditioner, lights?


    Keep it Clean and Green
    Midaz
    Last edited by Midaztouch; 07-10-2014, 01:25 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ufopolitics
    replied
    Originally posted by iankoglin View Post
    G'day Midaz
    From what I have seen from my experimentation with super caps
    If you have a battery say 12v the motor /generator portion seems to only allow the Super caps to load just under what the battery fills up to

    I imagine that if you had the Ultra caps from Maxwell's 7 farads 160v you would have to run the motor with160v Battery

    Perhaps If you ran the motor to run a separate generator then it might work
    If you used a lesser voltage battery the caps would only reach the lesser voltage
    I noticed with one of my tests not videoed I let the motor run on the caps only til the motor came almost to a stop then I switched the battery on and it took some time for the caps to charge and I still let it run but after a while the caps and battery seem to loose volts and so I switched it off

    Just My observation

    Kindest regards my friend
    Good day there Kogs!!,

    Great observation as Midaz mentioned...and yes, definitively right, Motor Generator will "provide" around or under the same voltage is supplied through battery banks...and this is a simple math equation here...Machine is just "transferring" power back and forth from supply to storage, PLUS, giving a mechanical output while doing so...however, again, Kogs, I highly recommend in a future you rewind one of those motors, either Imperial or MY 20 Poles to ALL NORTH TYPE...then compare the difference for yourself in same set up...and please share it with all of Us...

    The point of using Supercaps -so far- in alternate Side Banks, is to get them charged UP TO Running Batteries Speed/Torque IN ORDER TO SUBSTITUTE in a HIGHER PERCENTAGE their Contribution to Machine Performance...therefore, REDUCING the Battery Supply to considerable LOW outputs/demand without sacrificing performance...BUT, so far, I(We) have not being able to achieve "That Effect" of raising Supercaps Volt/Amps Ratios while running NOR self accelerating while System is JUST ON CAPS...I (We) have witnessed "The Effect" on Batteries...but not on Caps yet...They(Caps) still suffer a DECAY through Time when batteries disconnect...So, it still needs Battery Assistance so far...just a little...but still We need to use it this way...and further on We need to try -once we reach operating speed and torque- to start electronically pulsing Batteries Supply Banks with our controllers...to reduce -even more- the disbursed energy from batteries.

    It is the way Research and Development works on a New Technology Guys...unless We have Heavy Funding$$... but so far none of Us do...so this road We are all traveling on...is the "Hard Way" to reach Success...but in the End, We will have better and better results...just that Time will pass "slower" this way...so lots of patience from our ends...

    And I have been "jumping" from one to other Testings...which IS NOT GOOD, NOT THE WAY TO DO IT!!...in order to accelerate the development processes to Higher Levels...but more testings were(are still) required/pending in almost every one of the Models I have displayed here...


    Kind regards Kogs!


    Ufopolitics
    Last edited by Ufopolitics; 07-10-2014, 12:59 PM.

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  • Ufopolitics
    replied
    EV's Spec's...

    Originally posted by Midaztouch View Post
    UFO, Dana & Team

    Here is my thoughts/theory.

    I see the Imperial sized A1 Mo-Gen running on a lot higher voltage; for example, maxwell 160v modules. My reasoning is that I want to reduce the amount of input amps as possible from the battery source connected directly to a 160v capacitor bank. Even thou the farad capacitance drops to the floor @ 7farad, the 160v module will still discharge 170amps max. I think this is a favorable condition for an Imperial size A1 Mo-Gen. That's more than enough amps and voltage that you could need for VTOL purposes. That's tremendous speed and torque on demand.

    What do you think?

    Keep It Clean and Green
    Midaz
    Hello Midaz,

    The "Vision" We all have "Stamped" in our concepts, when it comes to EV's Power Supply is exactly about the ranges you are writing above and even more when we step into full sized EV's like Tesla Model S or Nissan Leaf...

    Tesla Model S>>>420V / 179 Amps/ 115 Ah>>>48 kWh

    Nissan Leaf>>>364.8V / 115 Amps/ 66.2 Ah>>>24kWh

    All this EV's, even using State of the Art Electronic Controllers, Per Cell Balancing Modules, Air Cooled Per Cell Systems, "Econo" Driving Options, State of the Art BMS's, Touch Sensing Screens Instrumentation...etc,etc...They ALL, still, use the same exact approach as the Farting ICE (Internal Combustion Engine) where all energy gets burnt and even with recycling Turbo Chargers, Electronic Sensors, Sophisticated Fuel Injector Modules...Sparking Controls...or Raw Rich Mixtures...they all "spit" the supposed to be saved energy through the drain of the exhaust system to our Atmosphere and to our Lungs.

    This does NOT need to be so...and the reason why...We all know...All this Vehicles have a "Dead End Process/Burning Energy System" in order to achieve Motion/Translation from point A to point B, for EV's it is the Symmetric Motors...where Energy is burnt and there is absolutely no way out to "reuse the unused" even in Milli Volts Energy rate savings.

    And forget about the "Brake Regen" and "Deceleration Regen" when compared to the "Burning Ratio" this Motors work/perform with...this "Regen" becomes less than nickel and dimes that would not even drive you for quart a mile in first gear speed and down hill...

    Now, coming back to our systems...as Kogs mentioned above, BOTH, the Supply Battery Banks and the Supercaps Banks need to be balanced to about same values/capacity ratings.

    For Imperial manufacturing We could do a lesser turn coil groups that will run (in series/cross fired banks) with very small battery/capacitor banks. Heavier Gauge, Less Turns...Higher Electromagnetic Fields, very fast charging ratios.

    What We are leading towards...is to build Motors that are powered by ridiculously small power supply banks...reducing enormously weight and size for a very light weight EV...or an "FV" (Flying Vehicle)...

    Once We achieve that stage...just a few revolutions from Machine will fully regenerate our Bank Systems...in just a "Snap" of our fingers...to a point We will need to electronically stop Generation and redirect it to secondary alternate banks...and...since they are so small...We could carry many of them "on board" with the proper circuitry.


    Kind Regards


    Ufopolitics
    Last edited by Ufopolitics; 07-10-2014, 01:13 PM.

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  • Midaztouch
    replied
    Originally posted by iankoglin View Post
    G'day Midaz
    From what I have seen from my experimentation with super caps
    If you have a battery say 12v the motor /generator portion seems to only allow the Super caps to load just under what the battery fills up to

    I imagine that if you had the Ultra caps from Maxwell's 7 farads 160v you would have to run the motor with160v Battery

    Perhaps If you ran the motor to run a separate generator then it might work
    If you used a lesser voltage battery the caps would only reach the lesser voltage
    I noticed with one of my tests not videoed I let the motor run on the caps only til the motor came almost to a stop then I switched the battery on and it took some time for the caps to charge and I still let it run but after a while the caps and battery seem to loose volts and so I switched it off

    Just My observation

    Kindest regards my friend
    @Kogs and Team

    Great observation! I've read a lot of literature and what you're saying coincides with what I've read.

    My idea is to have the Lipo battery pack 144v connected directly to the 160v capacitor bank.(lipo/capacitor hybrid) That way the system will never over voltage the capacitors. We could use a simple BMS system for the lipo/capacitors hybrid pack. This would simplify the system and continuously charge/top off the Lipo battery pack. For extra protection, connect "bleeders" to the capacitor banks. That would give us a high powered state-of-the-art battery system!

    Keep it Clean and Green
    Midaz
    Last edited by Midaztouch; 07-10-2014, 04:52 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • iankoglin
    replied
    Originally posted by Midaztouch View Post
    UFO, Dana & Team

    Here is my thoughts/theory.

    I see the Imperial sized A1 Mo-Gen running on a lot higher voltage; for example, maxwell 160v modules. My reasoning is that I want to reduce the amount of input amps as possible from the battery source connected directly to a 160v capacitor bank. Even thou the farad capacitance drops to the floor @ 7farad, the 160v module will still discharge 170amps max. I think this is a favorable condition for an Imperial size A1 Mo-Gen. That's more than enough amps and voltage that you could need for VTOL purposes. That's tremendous speed and torque on demand.

    What do you think?

    Keep It Clean and Green
    Midaz
    G'day Midaz
    From what I have seen from my experimentation with super caps
    If you have a battery say 12v the motor /generator portion seems to only allow the Super caps to load just under what the battery fills up to

    I imagine that if you had the Ultra caps from Maxwell's 7 farads 160v you would have to run the motor with160v Battery

    Perhaps If you ran the motor to run a separate generator then it might work
    If you used a lesser voltage battery the caps would only reach the lesser voltage
    I noticed with one of my tests not videoed I let the motor run on the caps only til the motor came almost to a stop then I switched the battery on and it took some time for the caps to charge and I still let it run but after a while the caps and battery seem to loose volts and so I switched it off

    Just My observation

    Kindest regards my friend

    Leave a comment:


  • Midaztouch
    replied
    UFO, Dana & Team

    Here is my thoughts/theory.

    I see the Imperial sized A1 Mo-Gen running on a lot higher voltage; for example, maxwell 160v modules. My reasoning is that I want to reduce the amount of input amps as possible from the battery source connected directly to a 160v capacitor bank. Even thou the farad capacitance drops to the floor @ 7farad, the 160v module will still discharge 170amps max. I think this is a favorable condition for an Imperial size A1 Mo-Gen. That's more than enough amps and voltage that you could need for VTOL purposes. That's tremendous speed and torque on demand.

    What do you think?

    Keep It Clean and Green
    Midaz
    Last edited by Midaztouch; 07-10-2014, 01:51 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ufopolitics
    replied
    Cleaning Commutators...

    Originally posted by GlenWV View Post
    Greetings all:

    I 'get it' when it comes to connecting the adjacent node on the commutator. That was being done when I noticed multiple segments were reading very low ohms. (dead short!)

    When the machine shop guy installed the commutators, he trued them up. In doing so, some of the commutator segments were shorted by small fragments of copper in the slots between segments. On a few of the segments, near where the wires go into the slots, the copper was actually drawn across the void to the next segment.

    Took a bit, but I fixed that last night.

    I removed the windings, as 7 turns looked to be a bit much as the thing progressed.... (Mr. UFOPolitics said as much!) So, I'll start over using 5 turns per coil. (My point in starting with 7 turns was to stuff as much wire into the thing as it would hold.)

    Winding coils is an art, so a little more practice will end up giving me a better product in the end.

    glen

    @Mikey: Mike, I want this motor running at constant speed and will use it to spin a generator. The idea is to grab some power from the generator, rectify it, and use it to power the motor. Loop-di-doooo (with switching)

    Hello Glen,

    Yeah, I figured 7 turns were too many...Five would be fine...

    Related to Commutator metal debris cleaning...If you have access to an air compressor and a hand regulated blower ...going into each of the segments gaps would be the best way...

    Make sure to wear Eye Goggles and a Dust Mask.

    Regards


    Ufopolitics

    Leave a comment:


  • Ufopolitics
    replied
    Originally posted by prochiro View Post
    Hello UFO

    I have had these videos on my mind and cant get them out. I have a question about the size of supercaps that might work in a higher voltage setup. From what you have seen so far, do you think that the larger, say 300F will be necessary or would maybe a smaller one like 100F do as well. I know that if six caps in series the farads will go thru the floor. Basically, what would you use for a 12 volt setup with extra buffer for the four banks. Could that recommendation be scaled up to say 48 volts for each bank say for the Imperial. Also serial or parallel might be better on each side. With serial, less caps would be needed.????? I have so much trouble when it comes to this expense without being sure what is the best size and may be useful when scaling up also.

    Dana
    Hello Dana,

    I am sorry for not responding your post above in time...because of the interruption here...
    I know... ...I know I should not let it "grow"...sorry!

    So, let's go back to your interesting post above...

    In reality, We will have to do several tests before reaching specific Farads Capacitance values to work with Higher Voltages set up like Imperial.
    Only Testing and more Testing would give Us the right answer.

    The same way Capacitance reduces when Banks are connected in SERIES...We know the OPPOSITE occurs when We connect Banks in PARALLEL, meaning We ADD Capacitance values per CELL PACKS.

    So, here, We could use any combinations of FARADS to add in each Parallel Cell Pack (All same values, of course), without adding Voltage... to be added in SERIES to the other identical Cell Packs...to create our desired Voltage Module.

    For example, let's say we will run our System with 24V TOTAL SERIES CONNECTED SPLIT SIDE BATTERY BANKS TO INDUCTORS/COILS INPUT (Our Supply, One 12V Battery on each side bank).

    So, on the Supercap Bank Module we need to use Five (5) Supercaps CELL PACKS of 2.7V each that connected in SERIES will give Us exactly 13.5 Volts (We ALWAYS MUST GO ABOVE BATT VALUES in the Supercaps Storage Banks to play on the safe zone)

    Now on each Cell Pack we add capacitance by adding more parallel caps/cells without changing the voltage...and that will increase the total Farads at each Module Total Output end.

    But the main point here is the Time it will take for the Machine to reach Operating RPM's and Torque versus Time Curve after Caps are charged in PARALLEL. At this stage we have BOTH BANKS running (Batt & Caps), but Batteries will start to reduce -considerably- the disbursed power.

    This Time it takes for Machine to Fill Up Cap Banks is where we have to play with...because it is the Main "Network" between Generating Power and Receiving/Storing Energy.

    For Example, based on the Test with the RS Five Pole and the 310F X 2 on each bank :

    [IMG][/IMG]

    I started to charge both Banks in Parallel at 10:38...and the Operating RPM's with Batteries ONLY and less than 3V (1.4V +1.4V=2.8V) was 7000 RPM's.

    Based on this Graph, it took Motor-Generator around Seven(7) Minutes to reach that speed (from 10:38 to 17:30) realizing Caps started from almost EMPTY with around 200-300 Milli Volts.

    Now, in order to reduce Charging Time here we have two options to play with:

    1- Reduce the Capacitance.

    or...

    2- Increase the Generating Capacity.

    To reduce Capacitance we could just reduce the number of Caps to just One on each side bank and re-test...or, replace Caps by 150 F Cells. Finally either one of this TWO TESTS should reduce the charging time to at least HALF.

    Amplifying the Generating Capacity would end up replacing machine by a bigger pole number...and this would change the whole set up.

    I rewound that motor on that last video to 12 Turns per Coil (24T in Pair), instead of 8 like on previous videos...and there is absolutely no more room to go any higher...so only option to increase generation here is to replace motor.

    If I have to replace Motor...then I rather go to Quad Stators and bigger pole Machines...and start there, where we have much more room to play with.

    Besides room, the MAIN and MORE IMPORTANT PART...That in Four Stator Machines We will have INDEPENDENT CIRCUITS from Battery Banks and Capacitive Storage Banks.

    And that is exactly what I am working on now.

    Related to the Test on Video with Serial Connection of Cap Banks...

    I did the Serial Switching just to demonstrate Total Generated Voltage reached per cell,(more accurate reading than Parallel) as to show the speed Machine developed that way, verifying the power "was there"...

    I know Capacitance will reduce in series.
    Then I must know running Time will also reduce considerably...plus the decaying speed curve will drop faster.

    Our first goal with this set up is to BALANCE as accurate as possible the Generation (Output) and the Alternate Storage Cap Banks(Input) to minimal times as possible from a CRITICAL START UP of ALMOST EMPTY CAPS...

    After we have that RELATION established then we can move on...

    What follows?

    After We minimize this Time to very short intervals...reaching operating speed and torque...then we incorporate our beautiful, state of the art... electronic controllers...

    By minimizing the Time to charge Cap Banks with the right Balanced Output (Machine Generation) to Input (Storage Capacitance Banks) Connection, will reach a point where a few pulses from Battery Banks-Controllers will avoid Decay, maintaining the Operating Speed and Torque mostly from Capacitive Banks, which will take over majority of percentage of the Energy delivered to the Motor Driving.

    On the little RS Motor we saw exactly that the more the Caps were charged and running speed reached or getting closer to, the Battery consumption dropped... and that was not using electronics to pulse-regulate Input to the System... Plus a "mixed" Input-Output System...so, am sure in independent circuits "The Effect" will develop even better, due to cleaner "Network Traffic Flows".


    Kind Regards Dana..We will get there...


    Ufopolitics

    Leave a comment:


  • GlenWV
    replied
    P66 Update

    Greetings all:

    I 'get it' when it comes to connecting the adjacent node on the commutator. That was being done when I noticed multiple segments were reading very low ohms. (dead short!)

    When the machine shop guy installed the commutators, he trued them up. In doing so, some of the commutator segments were shorted by small fragments of copper in the slots between segments. On a few of the segments, near where the wires go into the slots, the copper was actually drawn across the void to the next segment.

    Took a bit, but I fixed that last night.

    I removed the windings, as 7 turns looked to be a bit much as the thing progressed.... (Mr. UFOPolitics said as much!) So, I'll start over using 5 turns per coil. (My point in starting with 7 turns was to stuff as much wire into the thing as it would hold.)

    Winding coils is an art, so a little more practice will end up giving me a better product in the end.

    glen

    @Mikey: Mike, I want this motor running at constant speed and will use it to spin a generator. The idea is to grab some power from the generator, rectify it, and use it to power the motor. Loop-di-doooo (with switching)

    Leave a comment:


  • Midaztouch
    replied
    Hi Everyone,

    I've had some questions about the UFO kits. Below are the specs and pics from the company's motor homepage.
    Permanent Magnet Motor - 56 Frame

    http://www.imperialelectric.com/pdfs/imperial_pmm.pdf

    It will weigh over 40lbs and over 7500 RPMs when we are finished with it. Additionally you must buy high-performance bearings(front & rear), 3kg - 5kg of 18agw, Nomex paper for the slots and hedges to keep the wires in place.

    For the EV users, basically it will give you the performance of a 350cc- 500cc 4 stroke motorcycle engine, give or take! It's perfect for any old motorcycle you have laying around. Drive it until the wheels fall off!

    For generator people. I suggest you buy 2 kits, all additional parts and solar panels. UFO and other Team members will sort you out later for optimizing the set up.

    Dana made a suggestion for NEW brand-name super capacitors on eBay. Looks like a great value. Get them while they are hot! 68 Ultracapacitor Tecate Powerburst 400F 2 7V TPLS 400 Super Capacitor 100KJ | eBay

    I ordered two commutators from Imperial three months ago and they're still on back order. Remember this is the busy season for Imperial. When UFO gets his new kit, class will start! I got mine. I suggest that you order your UFO kits NOW!

    The UFO KIT Part# is 0524021
    The price is still $276.15 USD plus shipping.
    Dyann's direct line 1-440-349-4083-ext#117
    Email: derosad@imperialelectric.com

    Keep it Clean and Green
    Midaz
    Last edited by Midaztouch; 07-09-2014, 11:57 AM. Reason: Kit contact info

    Leave a comment:


  • Ufopolitics
    replied
    Originally posted by BroMikey View Post
    Thanks UFO for answering those questions I asked. Not everyone can sum all of this up in a nut shell like you can.

    I am learning from you now and will be here to make sure you are not mistreated

    You know how to talk to folks.

    Mike

    You are welcome and that is just Great Mike!

    Welcome on board!


    Regards


    Ufopolitics

    Leave a comment:


  • Ufopolitics
    replied
    Originally posted by iankoglin View Post
    G'day UFO
    Please where do you want me to place the amp meters

    https://www.dropbox.com/home/Motor%20Testing%20DRawings

    I am setting up so as to do the test But am unsure where you want the Amp meters to be
    I really appreciate all you are doing here

    Kindest regards

    Good Day Kogs!


    Ok, First, thanks Kogs for doing all this Tests!, it would be of great help to all of Us in order to understand all this Tech better...as also, since you are doing tests with N-S Machines, whenever someone of Us make same tests with all North, We could then see/stablish the differences...

    below is the Diagram:

    [IMG][/IMG]

    Let's analyze this circuit in detail...

    First than all, We must realize that all Inductors shown within Machine (L1, L2, L3 & L4) are JUST MOMENTARY GATES, since we understand they are constantly changing/swapping because of revolving at a very fast ratio...that results into PULSES transmitted to the outer components connected to them.

    Based on that fact, I have set Two Amp Meters at Battery Banks Positive conductors, A1 and A2.

    A1 and A2 will reflect similar, but never identical readings (depending on the meter automatic response, speed capturing capability and precision to Milli amps or after the dot positions)

    However, Total Amp Value (Draw) at Input will be Calculated based on the AVERAGE between both Meters.

    V1 and V2 will measure each Battery Banks separately from the revolving Inductors/Coils. And the Total Voltage at the SERIES INPUT CIRCUIT would be V1 + V2.

    Since We have a "Mirror" of Identical (Actually the Same, repeated) Inductor-Coils at Output, swapping at a common/same speed/time, plus we have all exterior components (Caps) positioned/connected identically as Input...then, L2 and L4 readings would be done EXACTLY the same way as Input Circuit Meters Setup (L1 & L3).

    Or...

    A3 and A4 will reflect similar, but never identical readings ...and the Total Amp Value (Draw) at Output will be Calculated also based on the AVERAGE between both Meters.

    And...

    V3 and V4 will measure each Capacitor Banks separately from the revolving Inductors/Coils. And the Total Voltage at this SERIES OUTPUT CIRCUIT would be V3 + V4.

    Therefore, on this WHOLE Circuit, We will consider the Same Revolving Inductors/Coils (or the whole Machine...) as the LOAD for both, Input-Output circuits.

    If We had all Inductors (L1, L2, L3 and L4) Stationary, (like soldered in a circuit board) ...Then, We could easily calculate/verify the parameters by simple Ohms Law...However, since Inductors are revolving/pulsing/swapping through Time, AND within a Magnetic Field...then we would need to Include Time/Speed/Acceleration in our Equations as well.

    THE TESTS:

    All Switches (S1 & S2) are OFF...Caps were discharged and, IF Supercaps are instead of typical Electrolytic, make sure to leave at least a 200 to 300 mV charge...not to create a radical short circuit.

    1- Measure Batteries Voltages while S1 is OFF.
    2- Turn ON S1, while S2 is OFF and Read:
    2a-Amperage on Both Meters.
    2b-Voltage Drop at V1 & V2
    2c-Max RPM's reached after a few minutes of running time (observing if there is an increase through time).

    After We have reached a "pretty steady" speed...

    3-We turn ON S2 (And keep reading Parameters above), PLUS the Meters attached to Output Circuit.

    RPM's normally will drop very low when we turn S2 ON.
    V1 & V2 will also drop to lower values.
    A1 & A2 will increase.

    Now, We need to let System run until catching up to previous/original running speed values as seen on 2c...

    Then read all Parameters again when this occur.


    This testing will give Us all an idea of the Operation of this whole set up.


    Kind Regards Kogs, and again, thanks for doing all this work for Us but, mainly, thanks for believing/trusting in my work all this time!



    Regards to All



    Ufopolitics


    EDIT 1: I have set Two Amp Meter per Input-Out Circuits for more accurate readings...HOWEVER, We ONLY need just One Amp Meter per each Circuit.
    I believe it is interesting to observe how the DC Amp Values fluctuate from one side bank reading to the other...as speed changes a few revolutions.

    On another note, I forgot to ask You Kogs...Do You have Two pretty similar (meaning around same amp/h) 6V Batteries?...That way you could start testing system with 6+6 Volts in the first run...
    Last edited by Ufopolitics; 07-08-2014, 12:58 PM.

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  • Cornboy 555
    replied
    Good on You, BroMikey.
    Regards Cornboy.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Good Answers UFO

    Originally posted by Ufopolitics View Post
    Hello BroMikey,

    What may you think it will run "slower"..?

    I will try to answer your questions, if you allow me to.



    Ok, Glen has an Imperial Electric Motor, 33 poles, 66 commutator Elements, so called "P66 BODY".
    I draw for him a method to convert it to Asymmetrical Wind based on the new concept of All North Rotor Groups configuration (Homo-polar Machines). Same concept I have been showing/developing on smaller replicas in my latest videos (all north five poles).
    This means Rotor Coils always would be projecting outwards a North Pole (toward Stators) (North Pole is a guidance, but it could be "All South" as well)

    Coils-Groups will orderly be Turned On then Off North during Motor Action. This way flux will travel -for all- in the same direction at all times. And, as they are overlapped with a common core, the transfer "from to" will not suffer much deviation in the "down hill curve" as it would be "inherited" from Group to next Group orderly.

    Look at the Diagrams (I posted before) for Glen to wind His Machine below...

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]



    This Machines do a "50/50" Motor Generator...

    [IMG][/IMG]

    In that Diagram, Glen's Machine would be the bottom right "N-N Config on Four Stators"..

    The Blue semi-circumferences would be Motor stage, while the Green would be Generator Stage, collected by the Output Brushes at that end.



    I am pretty sure He will...



    It would be great if you decide to go for one of this powerful machines Mikey!

    Imperial has a "UFO Kit" for a P56, available for a very low price of $276.00 USD (Thanks to Machine Alive great work negotiating with Imperial Electric)...it contains all you need to assemble one unit...normally an Imperial P56 Symmetrical costs $698.00 USD...



    We all have same goals here...different machines...different windings...same results, which is to obtain a greater output while having a low amp draw motor that delivers high torque and high speed as mechanical attributes, all in one compact machine...

    Glen Machine is unique, very powerful embodiment, and a newer technology in the windings that would run even smoother and with better output results than before we had here with the N-S Types.


    Regards Mikey


    Ufopolitics
    Thanks UFO for answering those questions I asked. Not everyone can sum all of this up in a nut shell like you can.

    I am learning from you now and will be here to make sure you are not mistreated

    You know how to talk to folks.

    Mike

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