My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Ufopolitics]

26 May 14 / 07:23:00

Hello All

Hello Ufo:
I had to reroof my house before hurricane season...it took a lot money and it took me away from this RS motor project.
Whenst returning to the project... I hadn't secured the RS motors for the actual project...
On the RS website to order the motors they aren't available online anymore.. which doesn't mean that locally their not individual stores...it means you can't get them online :-(
Is there an alternative to the RS motor for beginning newbies...

All the best
RandyFL

Hello Randy,

They say...they are "Out of Stock Online"...but I am pretty sure they are available on every single store.

Part# is 2730256

Here is the link:

RadioShack Super Speed 9-18VDC Hobby Motor : Hobby Motors | RadioShack.com

If not, then go by Kogs Goldmine suggestion above.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

G'day Randy
Try here
DC Motors-Electronic Goldmine
Go through these motors and find the largest ones as they are easier to wind
Kindest regards

Kogs trying to help

Kogs,

I have edited a few times the above post to you...make sure you refresh and read it again.


Thanks and regards


Ufopolitics

[iankoglin]

G'day Randy
Try here
DC Motors-Electronic Goldmine
Go through these motors and find the largest ones as they are easier to wind
Kindest regards

Kogs trying to help

[Ufopolitics]

Great Kogs!!

G'day UFO
I am very interested first to finish Nessie and then I would probably wind one of my 2 remaining Imperial's all North's then do a comparison with the other Imperial already wound.

I am still wanting to finish Nessie I am Just waiting for some rotary switches 90 amp and some SPDT 80amp relays which I have had made in China already paid for and I believe I should receive within the week.

I have been bench testing My 1000w 24v Chinese motor for Nessie it only draws 1 amp no load and when loaded almost to a stand still only draws 4-5 amps which amounts to50v x 4 amps = 200w but when I really put on the pressure I can not stop it and the amps are off the scale
I am using a UFO's controller the one you asked/showed us to build to display the lighting of the CFL bulbs.
I also used J Stone's monster it performs about the same with regard to amps draw but is harder to produce and you did ask me to run some tests using this controller I am really happy with this controller I used 3 types one using 2 only Mosfets you used in your setup then I built one using 6 Infeon CoolMos Mosfets which are slightly faster and run cooler also purchased from China for $2 each to buy the same in Aus cost $24 this is the controller I am running Nessie with also using one exactly the same but on a smaller heat sink to run the 250 modded motor in my Bicycle
I purchased 6 new 12v SLAB's to run as 36v but found that with 48v it runs better so I use the set up with 4 small SLAB's @48 v when new this batt configuration was rested @ 50.1v and after using these batteries for some time now probably say 10hrs run time they rest @51.25v
I have uploaded a new Video to YouTube here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LgG2mS38aAY

The Magura throttle is really a 5K ohms not 5 ohms
about an Hour after making the video the batteries measured 51.3v
I have decided to increase the Cap bank and have ordered 30 of these here

4 7 Farad Supercapacitor Electric Double Layer x10 Pcs Long Life 100000 Cycles | eBay

and should have them also within the week I will use 24 in series

I can't wait to finish Nessie so I can see just what she can do


Kogs still working

Good Morning Kogs !!(here on East Coast U.S)

First...Oh!, how beautiful Nessie looks!...lovely classic Tricycle!

I am glad that all UFO Engineering has worked for you my friend...

That Motor is running super strong friend!...love the Magura "touch" makes it jump, in first gear!

Couple of hints/advices there friend ...

Make sure the Supercaps are 47 and not 4.7 Farads...the link you have shown displays 4.7 F...and 4.7 is too short capacity for long drive storage...I have tried my latest set up with 3.3 Farads...and of course less voltage...what it does is increase the performance when you install them as side banks crossfiring coils...but the drive by itself (self running) is too short.

Try not installing the Capacitor Bank in Parallel to Batteries but...as I have displayed before, for Four Gates Motors...or like:

[IMG][/IMG]

Talking about just C1 and C2 SERIES BANKS...NOT C3/C4 which are Parallel!!

Capacitors are connected to Output Gates in SERIES BETWEEN GATES...or: C1+ to +OUT GATE 2...and Negative(-) of OUT G2 to C2-...then C2+ to + of Output G4...and closing loop G4- to C1 - (end of series connect).

Make a test with your typical capacitors on video (not supercaps) first...and see how it works.
So you will "split" the Bank into Two made of Four Caps each side...and connected to the pure output as displayed above...measure starting voltage and generated with a Meter on each side, like I did on my latest video.

Kogs, I have not tested this Side Caps connection (Cross Fire) with North-South Pair Asymmetric winding type like you have on this MY Motor...so, not sure if it will work or not for the better of performance...only you testing it would know if any advantage over this connect you have now...make sure to take temperature of caps while running...and observe they do not start swelling

The amperage is great under load...however, realize your batteries are 7.2 A/Hour...driving at 10 Amps will reduce running time.

I would like to see a video of you changing "Gears" with all Four Switches, while Magura is full Throttle...and measure RPM's!
I know such test will require of your assistant...

I am glad you are getting there so soon!


Warm Regards Friend and say hello to your wife...(I heard her in the background helping you)!


Ufopolitics

[RandyFL]

Radio Shack Motors

26 May 14 / 07:23:00

Hello All

Hello Ufo:
I had to reroof my house before hurricane season...it took a lot money and it took me away from this RS motor project.
Whenst returning to the project... I hadn't secured the RS motors for the actual project...
On the RS website to order the motors they aren't available online anymore.. which doesn't mean that locally their not individual stores...it means you can't get them online :-(
Is there an alternative to the RS motor for beginning newbies...

All the best
RandyFL

[iankoglin]

Kogs Update

Nice Testing Kogs!!

One thing that I will love for you to do...and I know it is hard, cause you already have varnish and balanced those motors...is to go for the ALL NORTH Configuration Kogs...if you could just do another MY1000 Motor like that...preferably a 20 poles...then run the tests and watch the big time difference my friend!

Kind regards

Ufopolitics

G'day UFO
I am very interested first to finish Nessie and then I would probably wind one of my 2 remaining Imperial's all North's then do a comparison with the other Imperial already wound.

I am still wanting to finish Nessie I am Just waiting for some rotary switches 90 amp and some SPDT 80amp relays which I have had made in China already paid for and I believe I should receive within the week.

I have been bench testing My 1000w 24v Chinese motor for Nessie it only draws 1 amp no load and when loaded almost to a stand still only draws 4-5 amps which amounts to50v x 4 amps = 200w but when I really put on the pressure I can not stop it and the amps are off the scale
I am using a UFO's controller the one you asked/showed us to build to display the lighting of the CFL bulbs.
I also used J Stone's monster it performs about the same with regard to amps draw but is harder to produce and you did ask me to run some tests using this controller I am really happy with this controller I used 3 types one using 2 only Mosfets you used in your setup then I built one using 6 Infeon CoolMos Mosfets which are slightly faster and run cooler also purchased from China for $2 each to buy the same in Aus cost $24 this is the controller I am running Nessie with also using one exactly the same but on a smaller heat sink to run the 250 modded motor in my Bicycle
I purchased 6 new 12v SLAB's to run as 36v but found that with 48v it runs better so I use the set up with 4 small SLAB's @48 v when new this batt configuration was rested @ 50.1v and after using these batteries for some time now probably say 10hrs run time they rest @51.25v
I have uploaded a new Video to YouTube here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LgG2mS38aAY

The Magura throttle is really a 5K ohms not 5 ohms
about an Hour after making the video the batteries measured 51.3v
I have decided to increase the Cap bank and have ordered 30 of these here

4 7 Farad Supercapacitor Electric Double Layer x10 Pcs Long Life 100000 Cycles | eBay

and should have them also within the week I will use 24 in series

I can't wait to finish Nessie so I can see just what she can do


Kogs still working

[GlenWV]

Thank you sir!

Hello Glen,

GRREAT!!...That is gonna be a very nice Machine!!!


Let's get to work...

[IMG][/IMG]

I believe the best way (not tested yet though) is the Group Winding All North...in your case will have 33 Groups, each Group will have 6 Coils...and each Coil will wrap around FIVE POLES...So the Coil#1 and Coil#6 center pole will dictate your two MAIN NORTH BISECTORS...and that is what you use at times to adjust machine according to Stators.

All Coils Turn same direction...with connecting shaft UP (Your Positive Commutator Input, top)...each coil will wrap CW (clock wise)

Best way to start winding this method is to do first GROUP 1 at left in dark blue...then do GROUP 18 opposed at around 180º...this way you will have better control of Groups positioning...PLUS wires-copper would be more weight balanced.

Then you jump a slot down on GROUP 1 and start GROUP 2 (I put a dot on the start of each group, color coded)

Now go to GROUP 18 and down a slot start GROUP 19...and so on Glen...you do one side, then go to other side...and do another one...one by one...and one on each side, progressing towards the TWO ARROWS with LAST TWO DOTS...that is where you will start your LAST TWO COILS ON EACH ENDS...and done deal!

So your winding goes from G1 to G17 and from G18 to G33 (end coil)...following the arrows direction.

Your P66 have 66 commutator elements, so same as Imperial P56, you will join TWO ELEMENTS to contact ONE GROUP.

The COMMUTATOR ELEMENT P1 and P18 should have changed to "G1 and G18"...but you understand this sequence.

Wire I recommend awg 18...and number of turns per each coil...could be four, five or six...calculate room you have for the most possible turns per each coil (all coils same amount of turns, of course)

Notice that all coils are overlapped here within each Group...as well as Groups overlap with each others...


Let me know...how well you digested all this post...


Regards and great to see you back!



Ufopolitics

Greetings Mr. UFOPolitics:

Thank you for getting on this drawing so quickly. I appreciate it.

Now, I'll sit down and study this layout and then do some practice winds with scrap wire. The practice winding will build expertise for the 'final go', and give me some notion of how much wire can be stuffed into this thing.

My goal for this unit is to drive a generator at fixed speed.

Again sir, my thanks.

GlenWV

[Ufopolitics]

Nice Machine Glen!

Greetings All:

Finally!

I am pleased to report that my new armature has been fitted with a dual ended shaft and is ready for winding.

The next step is to visit a local motor winding shop and pick up some plastic material for the slots to protect the windings and get a few more pounds of wire.

Now, how does one go about winding a 33 position armature the 'new' way?

Glen

Hello Glen,

GRREAT!!...That is gonna be a very nice Machine!!!


Let's get to work...

[IMG][/IMG]

I believe the best way (not tested yet though) is the Group Winding All North...in your case will have 33 Groups, each Group will have 6 Coils...and each Coil will wrap around FIVE POLES...So the Coil#1 and Coil#6 center pole will dictate your two MAIN NORTH BISECTORS...and that is what you use at times to adjust machine according to Stators.

All Coils Turn same direction...with connecting shaft UP (Your Positive Commutator Input, top)...each coil will wrap CW (clock wise)

Best way to start winding this method is to do first GROUP 1 at left in dark blue...then do GROUP 18 opposed at around 180º...this way you will have better control of Groups positioning...PLUS wires-copper would be more weight balanced.

Then you jump a slot down on GROUP 1 and start GROUP 2 (I put a dot on the start of each group, color coded)

Now go to GROUP 18 and down a slot start GROUP 19...and so on Glen...you do one side, then go to other side...and do another one...one by one...and one on each side, progressing towards the TWO ARROWS with LAST TWO DOTS...that is where you will start your LAST TWO COILS ON EACH ENDS...and done deal!

So your winding goes from G1 to G17 and from G18 to G33 (end coil)...following the arrows direction.

Your P66 have 66 commutator elements, so same as Imperial P56, you will join TWO ELEMENTS to contact ONE GROUP.

The COMMUTATOR ELEMENT P1 and P18 should have changed to "G1 and G18"...but you understand this sequence.

Wire I recommend awg 18...and number of turns per each coil...could be four, five or six...calculate room you have for the most possible turns per each coil (all coils same amount of turns, of course)

Notice that all coils are overlapped here within each Group...as well as Groups overlap with each others...


Let me know...how well you digested all this post...


Regards and great to see you back!



Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Playing with "Bigger Toys"...

Hello to All,

The purpose of using the small Machines is to observe and develop this effects at a lower cost experimental stages...however, they are limited.
The limitation is due, not to the size of machine, but to the number of independent gates...for example:

[IMG][/IMG]

Above I am showing a Four Stator, Four Brush System...where L1 & L3 are the INPUT GATES...and L2 & L4 are Output.
I have pictured Gates as they are in a Real Machine...like P1, P8, P15 and P22 for example.

So, we start driving Input from Battery Bank (L1-L3)...pulsing or linear feed, it don't matter now, through S1...the point is that Asymmetry allows Us to INDEPENDENTLY create this SERIES-PARALLEL RESONANCE at INDEPENDENT COILS that are on COLLAPSE OUTPUT ONLY...therefore, We would be charging Capacitors Banks just Reversed/Collapsed Energy...and it will occur EXACTLY what we have seen on previous videos, smaller machines...meaning, once our Cap Banks start charging up...they will start taking over the whole system (self acceleration) and Battery will start a process of automatic disconnection AND Regeneration obtained by the EXCESS of RETURNED CHARGES BACK from Output Gates...then utilizing much less power to run Machine.(nickel and dimes...)

C3 and C4 would be the Parallel Banks for each respective Gates L2 and L4...so S2 and S4 would be turned ON BEFORE We turn On S3, which would start SERIES DISCHARGE to the CROSSFIRE SIDE BANKS (C1 & C2)...We need to reach specific Voltages at those Parallel Caps, before We turn On S3.

Then We will have FUN...running Machine and observing acceleration response levels DELAYS (to bring it down)...

Do not worry...we could always disconnect any of the Cap Banks to slow machine down and use "Manual Driving"...Actually the SERIES Banks are the ones that raise Machine to sky high speed levels...while the PARALLEL connections work slower...and acceleration is easier to control...

Advantages of this Method are beyond typical known ways...since we could disconnect batteries and run just on Banks for a long while...

And of course, we will need regulation of speed/disbursement of power on Cap Banks as well...

Understanding all this manual switching could be done by smart electronic controls.

This is where we will get soon my Dear Friends...


Regards to All



Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hi All, UFO, in the latest video when L1 is being powered , are you now not making a complete circuit which includes L2 and the caps?
When L1 moves off the power supply , the instantaneous break is what is increasing the cap voltage?

Hi Shylo, hello to All,

[IMG][/IMG]

The latest video (PART 2) shows the above Diagram...except I added the Meters.

Shylo, you must look at what is going on at Both Coils, L1 & L2...

First "L1" is just referenced as a POSITION, not a specific Coil...Since Coils are CONSTANTLY SWAPPING...so, Battery never stops feeding whichever coil would be in turn at that POSITION or L1...so "L1" is always being powered...Except for some "nano seconds" or less than...of commutator millimeter gaps...let's not "count" that...

Second, L2 is another POSITION...not the specific Coil L2...however, L2 POSITION collects the Collapsing Coils reversed voltage

Therefore C1 & C2 receive a charge from both POSITIONS, L1 & L2 Together, at unison...
Look again at C1,C2, L1 & L2...don't you see they are ALL CONNECTED IN SERIES?...So, if you open S3, they BOTH (C1 & C2) will STOP receiving a charge.

Am currently winding a 12 pole , 2 stator since I screwed up my 16/4.
Looking forward to #3
artv

Number 3 Video is just going to show SERIES and PARALLEL Supercaps connected...don't expect a "Self Runner".


[IMG][/IMG]


It is VERY IMPORTANT to observe what's going on here...

First, this MUST FOLLOW A SEQUENCE...where battery turns on by S1...THEN, S2 turns on PARALLEL Circuit with C3...and finally S3 connects the C1 & C2 in SERIES.

The "Ratio" of charges to C3 does NOT occur at the same speed of charge as the side banks supercaps C1, C2(cross-fired), where C3 receives a MUCH MORE SLOWER CHARGE...therefore, if side bank (C1 & C2) is turned before C3...C3 starts decaying abruptly...(Series starts discharging C3)

So, the way this MUST GO is, once Motor is running, to charge first C3, (by turning ON S2) up to "a certain specific value or above"...then turn on S3...and even so, when we turn S3 ON, C3 starts decaying...to fill C1 & C2...

However, when we disconnect Battery...C3 starts "filling up" and C1 & C2 starts decaying...

So, yes...it is a Game of Resonances that take place here...so, in order to maintain a constant speed, and an increase of charges...we must keep switching between S2 and S3 to allow even disbursement of charges back and forth...

There is a "point"...an specific point that Motor starts doing a "shaking"...a vibration...when all three coils start pumping at same ratios...and we must disconnect either one of the two circuits to go back to a smooth running.

Eventually We need Four Supercaps for this testing...and making a test with just ONE Supercap, Pre Charged the same ratio as Battery...and not using Batteries, but this charged cap...and run system until we obtain same Effect...

I am pretty sure with bigger machines we will obtain much faster and better results...


Regards to All


Ufopolitics

[shylo]

new motor

Hi All, UFO, in the latest video when L1 is being powered , are you now not making a complete circut which includes L2 and the caps?
When L1 moves off the power supply , the instantaneous break is what is increasing the cap voltage?
Am currently winding a 12 pole , 2 stator since I screwed up my 16/4.
Looking forward to #3
artv

[SelenaBreman]

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[Cornboy 555]

The core architectural structure of this motor generator seems to be flawless. I've been back and forth and in 3D with the magnetic force interactions inside the core. I've tried my best to find a flaw but I can't. It seems to me to be perfect...

The commutators are open for discussion. My thing is that the comms create a "natural occurring pulse". The DC output will flow out smooth and plentiful, easy to control..... Of course the JS Monster pulser will put system in hyper drive, like the whole system on steroids, growth hormones and a lot of caffeine! The DC current will be coming out like a river after a major rain storm

Does anyone see any weak points that I can see? Thank you

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

Hello Midas, I love commutators ie ( Mechanical Switching ) even the smallest of Electric spark, will help the motor find a frequency that will bring Extra energy.

Good Luck everyone, Cornboy.

[Midaztouch]

Greetings All:

Finally!

I am pleased to report that my new armature has been fitted with a dual ended shaft and is ready for winding.

The next step is to visit a local motor winding shop and pick up some plastic material for the slots to protect the windings and get a few more pounds of wire.

Now, how does one go about winding a 33 position armature the 'new' way?

Glen

Hi Glen!

Please sand the green epoxy off of the rotor first. If possible, take off the comms before sanding.

Try to get Nomex paper for the slots. Is this a 4 stator?

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[GlenWV]

New P66 Armature

Greetings All:

Finally!

I am pleased to report that my new armature has been fitted with a dual ended shaft and is ready for winding.

The next step is to visit a local motor winding shop and pick up some plastic material for the slots to protect the windings and get a few more pounds of wire.

Now, how does one go about winding a 33 position armature the 'new' way?

Glen