My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Rl2003]

Turion and others,
I had the same issue with the shaft.
What I did, was tap the shaft, from the good end, flush with the Com. and
then using a die crinder cut it flush with the opposite side.
Then I used a small punch to push in back into the lamitations, half way.
This allows you to insert the shaft from your other motor in to meet it.
I dont know if there is any magnetic flow threw the shaft so I made sure
they contact each other.
I am not finished winding but will be done soon and will post if it worked or not.

I do have a observation, when widing in this pattern. It appears that P4 and P5.
of UFO five pole motor, will have a longer wire because it has to travel further
around the other winding. Also the motor will be slighty out of balance.
The only way I see around this is to wind P1 thru P5 (NORTH) all at the same time,
and the P1-P5 (SOUTH) at the same time.
Sound like alot more work, but should be better balanced for larger motors.

Just my 3 cents worth.

Asymmetric motor pictures by AMP2000 - Photobucket

Here is a link to my Photo bucket, with a few pictures, and a couple of a
1941 Dyna motor. Both motor and generator. They had the right idea but
didn't get the winding right, I am sure..

Made by Western Electric with an input of 14v 6.5 amp and output of 375v .150amps..
Mark

Turion,

What about completely pressing out the shaft from the sacrificed motor and then pressing the shaft halfway out of the good motor. Then insert the new shaft in half way? May need to glue both shafts. If that works, it opens up an easy way to do multiple hookups as UfoPolitics has laid out.

IndianaBoys

[lamare]

Good Morn Lamare!!


It is great Day to see you around my dear friend!!...And also great We both coincide thanks to "Mediator-Negotiator" MR. John Stone here...

I like your concepts as I can see you have a better understanding now of "some" part of my System...

However, let me tell you that I responded to you in a previous conversation...where you said my "Witch" sucks... ...Oh yes She Sucks !!...and You are completely right about that... , and I mention about my proof about Magnetic Fields shifting...but I guess you did not pay attention to that part...while watching "witches"...

The most fundamental issue regarding all seemingly OU systems is that there MUST be at least TWO separate energy flows, whereby one flow comes for free and the other one is used to influence the energy flow that comes for free. The law of conservation of energy is a fundamental one and it does hold.

So, in whatever machine is created that appears to generate energy out of nothing, there is an energy source that is being tapped.

One of the most simple free energy system are the commercially available heat pumps, which are used to extract heat out of the earth. The trick is that it takes less energy to operate the energy pump than the amount of energy which is extracted in the form of heat out of the earth.

For electro-magnetic systems, the interesting fact described by Prof. Turtur ( http://www.gsjournal.net/old/physics/turtur1e.pdf ) is that both the electrostatic and magnetic fields are powered by charge carriers, electrons in practice, which convert energy out of the medium into these fields. So, there you have your energy source. Both the magnetic and electric fields can be considered to be energy sources, because they are powered by the medium or the vacuum in Bearden's terms.

Now in a closed electric system, there is a fixed amount of electrons (even though these can probably be created at will, which appears to actually happen in the heated element of a radio tube, but that's another story), which means that however you let these electrons flow in/out your battery, you can never gain energy, unless you manage to tap it from some other energy source.

So, as long as you keep thinking in terms of charging/discharging coil (windings) as isolated systems, there ain't no way you can account for any surplus energy. And that is the reason I said your witch sucked.

However, when you have two separate energy flows, you can use one energy flow to influence the other, without paying for that in terms of energy, except for some losses. And since mother nature always strives to return balance, all you need to do is bring a dynamic balanced system out of balance in order for some energy flow to do useful work.

The bad news is that this will always cost you some energy, but as long as at the end of the line you manage to get more energy back from mother nature as the energy you have to spend in order to get it, all is nice and well.

I still see that You are looking at my System as a "Handicap" by Permanent Magnet Stators "Limited" use, as the "Only Way Out" / Not Scalable"...System...

That is a very limited and narrow thinking my Dear friend ...However, I will give you "the Benefit of the Doubt" here...and say that because it is a new Technology, with so many "unlimited options"...there could be many "other possibilities" that could have "escaped" from anyone's sight...

It definitely helps a lot to start studying a system with a PM stator, because then you know that the PM field does not vary (much) in strength, which makes it possible to recognize that there are two interacting magnetic fields. One created by your stator and one by your rotor coils.

However, the principle that a magnetic field can be amplified and guided by an iron core also applies to electro-magnetic stators. If they are D.C., then the same line of reasoning still applies. If they are A.C., things get more complicated, but if a large part of the magnetic field trough the rotor originates from the stator magnets and it is to a large degree only re-directed from one pole to the next by your rotor coil, then the energy flows can probably still be considered to be separate to a large degree.

However, there are still a lot of questions about how magnetic fields behave in an iron core. Leedskalnin's perpetual motion holder demonstrates that even when the coil around a closed-loop iron core is being disconnected from a battery, the magnetism can remain inside the core.

Edward Leedskalnin's Perpetual Motion Holder

Researchers have continued to be interested in this device because it defies natural laws of physics and is unexplainable by conventionally excepted electromagnetic theory. Modern science says it is impossible, but Edward Leedsklanin's theory says it is simple, natural, and that it's workings are misunderstood because there are some important aspects in the foundations of science being taught in schools that are wrong

And in one of his lectures (iirc together with Carlson), Eric Dollard shows that we still do not really understand how a transformer actually works. If the magnetic field stays within the core, how can it influence a coil wrapped around it?

It appears to me that the answer is to be found once again in balance v.s. disbalance. I suspect that the magnetic field inside an iron core only interacts with it's environment (like a coil) when there is some disbalance being introduced, either by a coil or by ripping the iron core apart, such as in the Leedskalnin experiment.

I have designed Asymmetric Armatures in so many different flavors and colors...I have gone back to Sacred Geometry 3D Space relations...I have gone through most of Tesla's Great Art, related to Asymmetrical Electro Dynamic Machines and Asymmetrical Transformers and Capacitors...You can see in my videos how I can dominate Rendering so easily beautiful 3D Engineering Designs, mixed with great 'Artistic' Textures, illumination and so many Perspective Angles of View.. and You "really" think, that I "was" going to keep my Entire System limited, by the only use of Permanent Magnets or even Dual "Symmetrical" Stator Fields in my Design Dear Lamare?!

There is so much more to this Lamare...and it relates to a Field of Study where most of Us are at the "Pamper Stage"...just like little newborns...

This great and divine Beauty, is called Radiant Energy, my dear friend...SHE, manifests lovely into The Asymmetrical Universe, that is HER WORLD...and not the symmetry of shadows and darkness...


In this Asymmetrical World that I have designed "just for HER"...Oh Lamare!!...She makes things beyond understanding by Our Classic Physics...She has "Laws" that for Us are completely "Science Fiction"...or "Nonsensical" manifestations of an "Ignorant in Science"....well, maybe in the Science that we all learned at a 50%...of its entirety...being "generous" in percentages here...

She travels through air...like our Hot Flux will never do...without the Steel Lamination's...She Induces Electrical Flow in so many different "fashions"...but with so many different concepts...If you only knew...dear Lamare...


But it is Ok...You will do, very soon.


Warm regards


Ufopolitics

Tesla was about the only one that really left the "Pamper Stage" behind him, but we are catching up with him slowly but surely, because people like you openly share their ideas and accomplishments, instead of working in the old "closed" paradigm of me, me, me wherein people patent their inventions, and the government subsequently locks them behind closed doors never to be seen again.

Looking forward to learning more and more together with everyone here!



BTW, I usually call "radiant energy" "the aether", just like our hero:

"Experiments with Alternate Currents of Very High Frequency and Their Application to Methods of Artificial Illumination"

Nature has stored up in the universe infinite energy. The eternal recipient and transmitter of this infinite energy is the ether. The recognition of the existence of ether, and of the functions it performs, is one of the most important results of modern scientific research. The mere abandoning of the idea of action at a distance, the assumption of a medium pervading all space and connecting all gross matter, has freed the minds of thinkers of an ever present doubt, and, by opening a new horizon—new and unforeseen possibilities—has given fresh interest to phenomena with which we are familiar of old. It has been a great step towards the understanding of the forces of nature and their multifold manifestations to our senses. It has been for the enlightened student of physics what the understanding of the mechanism of the firearm or of the steam engine is for the barbarian. Phenomena upon which we used to look as wonders baffling explanation, we now see in a different light. The spark of an induction coil, the glow of an incandescent lamp, the manifestations of the mechanical forces of currents and magnets are no longer beyond our grasp; instead of the incomprehensible, as before, their observation suggests now in our minds a simple mechanism, and although as to its precise nature all is still conjecture, yet we know that the truth cannot be much longer hidden, and instinctively we feel that the understanding is dawning upon us. We still admire these beautiful phenomena, these strange forces, but we are helpless no longer; we can in a certain measure explain them, account for them, and we are hopeful of finally succeeding in unraveling the mystery which surrounds them.

Still so true, more than a hundred years later.

-- Arend --

[Ufopolitics]

Lovely WORK!!!

Turion and others,
I had the same issue with the shaft.
What I did, was tap the shaft, from the good end, flush with the Com. and
then using a die crinder cut it flush with the opposite side.
Then I used a small punch to push in back into the lamitations, half way.
This allows you to insert the shaft from your other motor in to meet it.
I dont know if there is any magnetic flow threw the shaft so I made sure
they contact each other.
I am not finished winding but will be done soon and will post if it worked or not.

I do have a observation, when widing in this pattern. It appears that P4 and P5.
of UFO five pole motor, will have a longer wire because it has to travel further
around the other winding. Also the motor will be slighty out of balance.
The only way I see around this is to wind P1 thru P5 (NORTH) all at the same time,
and the P1-P5 (SOUTH) at the same time.
Sound like alot more work, but should be better balanced for larger motors.

Just my 3 cents worth.

Asymmetric motor pictures by AMP2000 - Photobucket

Here is a link to my Photo bucket, with a few pictures, and a couple of a
1941 Dyna motor. Both motor and generator. They had the right idea but
didn't get the winding right, I am sure..

Made by Western Electric with an input of 14v 6.5 amp and output of 375v .150amps..
Mark

Excellent and LOVELY WORK!!!

It is so Nice , so very nice to see You all making it HAPPEN!!!!


Thank you, thank you!!


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Turion]

If your shaft is not going to be long enough....

1. When you have the motor apart and just have the piece you are going to take the commutator off of...

2.Drill a hole through a 2x4 (through the 3 1/2 width) a little larger than the shaft of the motor.

3.Put a small washer on the motor shaft that will slide easily and stick the shaft of the "parts" piece into ithe hole in the wood with the commutator side away from the 2x4, and put it in a vise. It will rest against the washer on one side and the end of its shaft against the vise on the other if you have it right. (I ended up using a piece of steel here because the washer just bent!)

4. Then crank down on the vise and it will push the shaft out of the motor into the hole in the 2x4. When the shaft gets "flush" on one side, insert a finishing nail about the same diameter (but smaller) than the shaft and keep going. You may need to use the finishing nail like a punch and drive the shaft out with a hammer. Make sure you have a solid backing with a small hole for the shaft (only) to go through before you hit that nail with a hammer. I used a piece of steel here too.

5. Eventually the part (commutator) you want will drop onto the finishing nail and you can stop and take it out. Put the piece back in and repeat this process until you have pushed the shaft completely out. You will need it.

6. Now repeat steps 3 and 4 with the GOOD piece only this time with the commutator side against the washer and use the shaft you got out of the parts piece instead of the finishing nail. Only push the shaft HALFWAY out of the piece and the new shaft halfway in. Now you have a shaft in your motor long enough to connect loads on either or BOTH ends.

7. Assembly will be easy once you have put the two motor cases together, but do NOT solder the cases together yet!!!! Stick the rewound piece into the case and slide the brush pieces onto either end. Rotate them until the notches in the plastic line up and they go together that last little bit. Now hold on to one of the cases and rotate the other until the external connectors are aligned directly across from one another. Test continuity like UFO does in his video to make sure you are all good before bonding the two cases together. Mark the cases and take everything back out before you weld it if that is what you are going to do. I used two part epoxy on mine and clamped it to a board using the holders they put around electrical conduit to secure it to 2x4's during construction while the epoxy was drying. Those clamps fit EXACTLY around those little motors so clamping it to a board holds it in perfect alignment even if your cutting and grinding job was NOT perfect. I used one of those clamps for two hours to run the motor WITHOUT bonding it together and it worked great. Maybe I should have just left it that way! LOL

I cut a slot in the board because I put two poker chips glued together (to give it some width and stability) on the shaft so I could put on a piece of reflecting tape and get an rpm measurement, and it would hit against the board without the slot in it. I drilled a hole and then cut the slot with a jig saw. I will do the same with a"stock" motor.

Hope this helps out.

Hey, I just read through all the posts and saw that several of you recommended doing something exactly like this. I guess great minds think alike. Thanks for all those suggestions guys. This is the step by step I used.

Here's a pic of the rotor with both shafts in it and both commutator sections on it. BE WARNED. If you do this, the shaft needs to be sanded with emory cloth quite a bit because it is trying to fit through those bushings on the end in a new place, and it must turn freely. If you wil notice, the bushings spin easily on the shafts at the ends, but not further in. If you just put it all back together and expect it to work, it won't. In fact, it won't even turn!! The voce of experience speaking here! I stuck one end of the shaft in my battery powered drill, which doesn't have the high rpms of the plug in drill, and pinched the other end of the shaft between 100 grit sandpaper, then used emory cloth to polish it it when it was turning (but difficultly) in the right spot.

Dave

[Ufopolitics]

Cool Very Cool My Friend!!!

UFO,

Sorry ufo, here's a video of the r/s motor with 5 v input.

The witch killer.3gp - YouTube

Thug

Excellent little "Baby" there!!!
But STILL is a Heck of a Witch Killer...

Btw...I Love the Poem you've made....

Didn't know you have those skills also....

Yeah, I have a MOTOR, You Guys are gonna love...it is the LAST of the "Mohicans" Built in USA...last of Brushed Motors still in production, that We can still Convert...and that nice pretty Big Baby...could Drive a CAR, or a Pick Up Truck...I will post all reference for all of You guys to check it out...or get it ordered...and as a Matter of fact...the Frame is so big...it does not need to be cut...or weld...
The only thing to do to it, besides strip the Symmetric Crap, is to pull the "Cooling Fan"(I did it with a Steering Wheel Automotive Pulley)...But ...We do not need it any more right??...Our Motors don't heat up...so...Goodbye Fan...

And more...We can buy ALL PARTS WE NEED separate...Like extra Housing's Cap, Brush Housings, Brushes separate...Bearings...Extra Commutators ...I mean...The WORKS!

It has 28 Poles Armature and 56 Element Commutator huge and smooth machined...Four Big Permanent Stator and four set of nicely displayed brush system...I mean...a winner for Heavy Duty Vehicle Transport testing...

I also have the CAD to convert it...

I will post some pic's of it disassembled later on...it was originally a 5 HP 36V Beauty...
But...well...Only You Guys could imagine what we could do with it...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[ewizard]

Thank you ufopolitics for all you have shared. I hope you can release everything you know as quick as possible to stop the powers that be from visiting you. If everbody knows what you do, you will not be visited like romero was. please take care and thank you again for your great knowledge

ron48

Ditto - I get very concerned when anyone announces they have something important to release and everyone already knows that person is very knowledgeable. It's a setup for a visit from those who will lose big if the info gets out so at the very least UFO needs to have a backup of a number of people who will announce this if anything should happen and he needs to make that clear right here and soon that there is backup in place. Best thing would be to simply release the info because a visit from the wrong people might coerce info of who has his backup. Sorry for the rather dark thoughts on this but it has happened way to many times in the past. And motor ideas seem to be a bigger target than most other ideas since apparently motors have the potential to make real power without any exotic material or construction techniques.
I see UFO responded to your post and I think I get that he has backup in a way and I think I understand something he has said regarding that. Anyway I will see this as all going smoothly and all will be well. So be it and so it is. ∞ Φ

[Ufopolitics]

Dual Top Set Commutators Cgi...

[IMG][/IMG]

Here is another way of making this possible, with Dual Commutators set above the Embodiment, however, lots more work on Commutator Side/Wiring's.

This CGI, is from a 3D Animation CAD from a long time ago...when trying to get the BOSCH Motor going...

Typically Motors connected to Power Trains of Vehicles put a lot of vibration and mechanical stress on the Drive Shaft/Differential side, therefore Brushes-contacts suffers lot's of vibration..ending up in possible bad contacts...So, the "remedy" would be this design.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[thugugly]

ufo,

Is there anything you haven't built? No matter what we do or say, you have already been there, and done it.
Should I bother working with the hi/Lo optics, because, I think you already have the schematics. .?

I also feel, like ewizard, you need protection, but you probably have your own haarp weapon.

Peace and love ( even you lamare)

Thug

[ewizard]

Excellent little "Baby" there!!!
But STILL is a Heck of a Witch Killer...

Btw...I Love the Poem you've made....

Didn't know you have those skills also....

Yeah, I have a MOTOR, You Guys are gonna love...it is the LAST of the "Mohicans" Built in USA...last of Brushed Motors still in production, that We can still Convert...and that nice pretty Big Baby...could Drive a CAR, or a Pick Up Truck...I will post all reference for all of You guys to check it out...or get it ordered...and as a Matter of fact...the Frame is so big...it does not need to be cut...or weld...
The only thing to do to it, besides strip the Symmetric Crap, is to pull the "Cooling Fan"(I did it with a Steering Wheel Automotive Pulley)...But ...We do not need it any more right??...Our Motors don't heat up...so...Goodbye Fan...

And more...We can buy ALL PARTS WE NEED separate...Like extra Housing's Cap, Brush Housings, Brushes separate...Bearings...Extra Commutators ...I mean...The WORKS!

It has 28 Poles Armature and 56 Element Commutator huge and smooth machined...Four Big Permanent Stator and four set of nicely displayed brush system...I mean...a winner for Heavy Duty Vehicle Transport testing...

I also have the CAD to convert it...

I will post some pic's of it disassembled later on...it was originally a 5 HP 36V Beauty...
But...well...Only You Guys could imagine what we could do with it...


Regards


Ufopolitics

That sounds great! - something that can move a car on a lot less battery power I assume than it would require with regular electric motors. I was wondering if the current crop of electric car motors can be modified in this way. Like a Warp 9" or something along those lines. Probably not those as I'm guessing those are not brushed - but I'm actually very lacking in electric motor knowledge. Anyway I'm getting off here to go hacking apart the two Milwaukee drill motors I pulled out and see if I can do some building and rewinding.
I just have one question that I'm sure UFO or someone has tried. Can we feed the generator output of this setup back to the battery with two diodes and get some recharging of the battery that way? Bad idea? Good idea?

[DadHav]

Hi Ufo and all

Special congratulation to John-g and Netica, for the great work.

Netica you seems to get a really amazing result in your gen. Perhaps a shematic of your connection . Thank's.

For my update, i dismanteled the motor and i grinded the side of the flange brush holders , so i can rotate them to better tune.

The result is outstanding by a rotation of about 10 degree, my motor start alone each time, the amp draw is more than the half than before , and the torque is much higher. But my generator voltage stays at EG 3,6 volts for an input of 4.5 volts. I do not dare going higher than 6 volt without the propeller installed because the rpm is really wizzling.

So now the motor is glued and i will keep it like this as my shool motor and i probably will give a go to a 3 poles asymotor.

Good luck at all

Laurent

Hello Woopy. I've always been a fan of your video channel. Since you seem to be pretty far along and knowledgeable about this modification, maybe you can answer a few questions for me. What did the modification prove for you?
Does the motor run faster or have more torque than the stock motor?
Does it do so while using less current?
Is the motor / generator increased voltage have any use other than what you would expect from one DC motor turning another?
Let me tell you about something I tried. I took two of these motors and connected them with a rubber coupling. While running the first motor at 10 volts I had another 9 volts on the generator motor. If I made the proper connections I could measure 19 volts. OK know I made a test. I adjusted the input voltage so that I had 12 volts comming of the motor / generator connection. I applied the 12 volts to two 12 volt lights that are 50ma each. The lights where bright as expected but the current draw to run the setup went up by 200ma or twice what it would take to run the bulbs by direct connection to a 12 volt supply. This acted like a step up transformer with a 2:1 ratio. I expected exactly what I saw. What happens when you attach a load to your modified motor?. Try just the generator and try the increased voltage connection. I'm trying to figure out which of the two senarios is the case: Is this a more eficient motor or is it a more effiecient generator or is it both?
Maybe there are similar tests already. Let me know if you know of something.
John H

[JohnStone]

... but you probably have your own haarp weapon.....

Shure - he has! see
Enhandced J. Bond circular saw technology with UFO motor drive inside. More to come!

[prochiro]

Here is a picture of a drill motor rotor with replaced longer shaft 100 winds of 24# wire, epoxied windings and soldered tabs.

Dana

[MasterBlaster]

For those who have tried already, are the laminations glued to the shaft or are they welded?

[MasterBlaster]

UFO,

I know you have a lot more tricks up your sleeve.
Is this where we are going?

Electric Car Without Battery, make VIRAL ! (Oil replacement solution) Magnetic Motor - YouTube

[prochiro]

rotor shafts

I have already indicated that it can be done and how to do it, but one more time will not hurt me. No, nothing is welded. Place the rotor loosely in a vise with commutator side up. Tap straight down on the shaft so as not to bend it, untill shaft is level with top of commutator, then use a welding rod or smaller shaft to tap the old shaft all the way out. It is a bit easier if wire has been removed first but works both ways.
When replacing a shaft into the rotor, take a dremmel and rough up the area where laminations will be befor using epoxy to set it solid. Waiting for the epoxy to dry well before doing any winding is a good idea as you will loosen up everthing and have to start over. Four hours is a good wait.
Dana