My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Ufopolitics]

Awesome Dana!!

This is The finished dewalt motor made out of parts from three others including longer shaft and new brushes. The tube is one piece and came fron a long 5 pole motor. I show this just to show that you can do anything that you can think of. The sky is the limit.


Dana

Great work Friend!!

Excellent, looks beautiful!!

Now...







Does it run??....

Just kidding...


Warm regards


Ufo

[Rl2003]

Pat,
I have seen that motor, and it was my second choice, but it did appear
that the shaft was the same dia. till you get to the threaded part. It also
looked like the brass part will slide off. The motor has a very high RPM stock
at 12v. I opted for this other motor because it came with an out side sleve
that allows me to line both halves of the motor case up.
Hope that helps.

Mark

HTI 12 VDC - 700 Series - 5 Pole Electric Trimmer Motor | eBay

Looks same at bottom ... Going to get 4 of these from some cheaper place..

Thanks
Pat

[bobo36us]

4-This Motors do not require "massive amperage" to operate and develop their work at very efficient levels...The Typical Amperage requirements of Symmetrical Machines, was entirely due, to their constant wrestling electrical-current forces within their rotating components...Reminding all here, that Amperage is a "Population Value" of Electrons at a given section of the conductor, therefore, is understood, that if we have a machine that has a very populated Incoming Traffic towards Our Traffic Flow...the measurements at any given part of such conductors...Our meters will read "Mega Congested Amperage Area" in just that section.

Therefore We are all gonna have to familiarize with the so called "Nonsensical" arguments of many, many Inventors, the list is huge, who stated, their "Machines worked only on Voltage"...or "They did not require a Higher Amperage"...and so on, they kept repeating to exhaustion, and were all taken as "ignorant and not properly skilled in the Art, or in the fields"...

Ufopolitics

UFO, I believe as you do that many large motors can be ran on milliamps with additional circuitry. But without that additional circuitry, what kind of amperage reduction can be expected in larger motors?

Also, why is there no amperage reduction in these smaller motors yet if we have eliminated the "electron build-up"?

Thanks,
Bobo

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Bobo36us

UFO, I believe as you do that many large motors can be ran on milliamps with additional circuitry. But without that additional circuitry, what kind of amperage reduction can be expected in larger motors?

Also, why is there no amperage reduction in these smaller motors yet if we have eliminated the "electron build-up"?

Thanks,
Bobo

Hello Bobo,


We have not eliminated the Electron build up just by running them Bobo...We are still getting it back if We do not use the Output Flow...

Machine spins electron flow back at Us...I mean, not that critical as Symmetrical does..besides flow is towards our direction, but that gets somehow a "population" if the machine is not loaded...therefore gets a normal to high Amperage reading...

Figure yourself inside the Machine...observing the Electrons spin like a Vortex...with only two exits out (The two Negatives or Positive, however you want to look at electron flow)..One Up...One down...and the way "virtual tunnel expands" so they could travel out...is when you get their gates wide open. If not they will keep spinning-collapsing...however, they are "Side Lateral Collisions"...never "Front End"...like the other System does...

This Machines keep a pretty good balance inside of them, if they are not under load...they will consume much less...kind of an "automatically set cruise control"...and that is because Magnetic fields creates a rotational balance flow within, when it is idling...not accelerated, Magnetic Field and Electrical Flow keeps an Equilibrium of forces...so no big "demand" is required from Source...

Also acceleration from Idling point is smoother, since Machine has its Coils charged and balanced...so it does not occur the typical High Kick Back Force from Zero Point up...Machine is always ready to go from idling.

Now all this motors perform much better...just like the Symmetric also...being regulated by PWM Controllers.

Hope this help you understand them better...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

That Little Machine looks so nice!

Looking forward to the next step

Thank you for the journey

Hello Minoly!!

That's a nice looking little red machine!!

Incredibly she will break all rules Uh?!...Unbelievable!...

Nice and detailed work!!

Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

For those who would like to get involved in bigger "Toys"

Ok Guys,


This Motors are perfect for this Conversion, I have Two of them, and the advantages are... they have lots of room inside, enough inner shaft length to add the second Commutator and the Housing for Brushes...However some adaptations will have to be made in that part (Second Housing in Front)

And the better one is that parts are available as you like...even a stripped Armature core cleaned up...before wiring(has to be ordered)...Now, this motors are Vacuum sealed at wires with resin..so it is NOT an easy job to take wires out...unless whole armature is boiled/on fire..but that will take resin burnt...so is not a smart solution...(without Commutators, of course)

It took me a good amount of hours to strip just one Rotor really clean...it is wounded with Bifilar Green-Gold 16 Gauge awg...

The Cooling Fan would have to pulled off with some tooling similar to one posted here by a Member, just bigger, and hooked to an Automotive Steering Wheel Pulley, (they could be rented at most Auto Parts...free with just a deposit)

This Motors are rated from 1 to 5 HP...I recommend the cheapest ones (lowest HP), since it will have less wire to strip...
But Most Motor Manufacturers are no longer making this kind of Armatures...Now is either BLDC or the single heavy wire Coil of Higher poles(63and Up), but very fine and narrow spacing...and depth, so it will not work for this...so far...maybe someone finds a way to do it.


[IMG][/IMG]

[bbem]

Hello Seth,

So, Ok, that's the same approach as Bbem, the lazy guy who took same wires...and cheat!

Remember Brushes Angle must vary to 90 degrees related to Stators...

Regards


Ufopolitics

Since I have several scrap motors, I recoiled a new rotor.
It took me half an hour, with 90 turns of gauge 30 wire per pole.
It is running stronger and faster then the previous, but it takes 1 amp now.

Bert

ps. The original wire had higher gauge and turns on the poles.

[Ufopolitics]

Hey Bert

Since I have several scrap motors, I recoiled a new rotor.
It took me half an hour, with 90 turns of gauge 30 wire per pole.
It is running stronger and faster then the previous, but it takes 1 amp now.

Bert

ps. The original wire had higher gauge and turns on the poles.

Hello Bert,

Hey, I was just kidding...about the lazy guy...did not meant for you to take it apart...lol

Listen, how many Amps-Volts are you getting out of just the Output terminals, not bridged?

30 is kind of a fine wire, what kind of body you have there?...last time I saw the 7 poles body..similar or could you get a bit higher awg, less turns...I did my three poles TRAXXAS with 26...

Let me know


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Netica]

BEAUTIFUUUUUL!!!


GO NETICA GO!!!

YES!!!Lovely WORK!!, Excellent DEMO!!!



By the way lovely soldering!!...



You have that motor "tuned" excellently well!!...grrrreat!!!



Yes, great output, great Torque, super high RPM's...I mean, what else could we ask for,- so far- from such a little motor??!!



Thanks a million Netica!!!



Awesome work!!


Warm regards friend!!


Ufopolitics

Hi Ufo,

So glad you liked the demo.
Thank you so much for the kind words and encouragement.

netica

[Turion]

Test setup ready for a day of testing.

[Netica]

Hi woopy,

Glad you liked the video. I have enjoyed watching many of your great videos.
This is a drawing of the circuit you requested, hope it helps.

netica

[Ufopolitics]

That looks good Turion!

Test setup ready for a day of testing.

Hello Dave,

Are you going to test also a Dual Asymmetric set up, Motor to Gen?...or that would be later on..I guess lot of work.

It looks great let's see tomorrow...poor motors, they have no idea...looking so clean and nicely set...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Beachcomber310]

Amazing work

I have been reading watching all the work done by people here at replicating this motor. My background is in Electronics and not in motor armature winding. All my motor build so far has been along the line of pulse motors and Newman Style motors so working with the type of motors that you are using for this project is not so easy for me. Even so I bought two Radio Shack motors to give it a try. Well it didn't go so well as I broke the commutator trying to get it off the motor. I am not giving up I am just going to try and find some bigger motors to work with. The Radio Shack motors are small. Tried getting the Traxxas Motor from Pep Boys. Went to 3 different Pep Boys stores and they were all out of the motor. So either they fail alot or everyone has been out buying the build these motors One thing that has me a little confused. In UFO's video he said the motor runs cold and there is little to no arcing of the commutator which is great. But in JohnG's I think was his name he said his motor did get fairly warm and in a few hours of running he burnt out a set of brushes. Is it possible that his may not have been wired quite right or the phasing off a bit? Just trying to get a better handle on this. It seems like a real breakthrough that has been suppressed for a very long time and I hope to be able make a good working unit of my own soon.

Thanks and keep up the great work people!!!!!

Beachcomber310

[Turion]

I am working on a generator now. Have to have something to do while I'm running tests! Bought out one radio shack and working on a second one!

Dave

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Beachcomber310

I have been reading watching all the work done by people here at replicating this motor. My background is in Electronics and not in motor armature winding. All my motor build so far has been along the line of pulse motors and Newman Style motors so working with the type of motors that you are using for this project is not so easy for me. Even so I bought two Radio Shack motors to give it a try. Well it didn't go so well as I broke the commutator trying to get it off the motor. I am not giving up I am just going to try and find some bigger motors to work with. The Radio Shack motors are small. Tried getting the Traxxas Motor from Pep Boys. Went to 3 different Pep Boys stores and they were all out of the motor. So either they fail alot or everyone has been out buying the build these motors One thing that has me a little confused. In UFO's video he said the motor runs cold and there is little to no arcing of the commutator which is great. But in JohnG's I think was his name he said his motor did get fairly warm and in a few hours of running he burnt out a set of brushes. Is it possible that his may not have been wired quite right or the phasing off a bit? Just trying to get a better handle on this. It seems like a real breakthrough that has been suppressed for a very long time and I hope to be able make a good working unit of my own soon.

Thanks and keep up the great work people!!!!!

Beachcomber310

Hello and Welcome here,

That's great give it a try...is simple nothing out of the typical windings...just different hooks and connections type.

He burnt it because He was doing it with just one commutator in a smaller than the 5 pole body...He joined three cables at end and run through bearings contacts...it got hot, and was a bit cheaper model...but He got out some power to get a light going...so, still was a good testing...Motors were $1.00 each...lol

Welcome, as is good to know. We just don't need Motor builders, but also some Electronics Skills...

Regards


Ufopolitics