My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[wonza]

I just used sandpaper. I read woopi used a flame though

[b_rads]

Hello and Welcome here,
.....................
He burnt it because He was doing it with just one commutator in a smaller than the 5 pole body...He joined three cables at end and run through bearings contacts...it got hot, and was a bit cheaper model...but He got out some power to get a light going...so, still was a good testing...Motors were $1.00 each...lol
......................
Ufopolitics

Maybe I can clear up what my test was about.

The little battery fan motor from the dollar store is about as cheaply made as you can get. The brushes are very thin gage copper foil, certainly not made for 1.5 amps. I used the higher power as it showed exaggerated differences between the motors. Comparing unmodified to modified motors is comparing apples to oranges, but does give expected baseline results to compare with.

Retested with new unmodified motor and modified motor with new brush cap. The unmodified results: 2.6 Volts unloaded (2 AA batteries) ran the motor at 2 volts and 220mA for 0.44 watts. The modified ran at 1.5 volts and 280mA for 0.42 watts. Putting ground to the case does act like a resistor dropping the voltage. For this I got higher RPM’s (approx 700) plus generator output – enough to light an LED.

Using the 2 AA batteries, I do not see any abnormal wearing of the brushes nor could I tell that the motor was running hotter. I will be attempting the slip-ring method on a better motor next to confirm the results I saw in this test. All in All, this test did confirm that the motor did run more efficiently, at higher RPM’s, and with generator output as a bonus.

Brad S

[Ufopolitics]

Yes they do work better by pulsing Stators...

Hi ufopolitics..you don't stop to surprise us..
"We could pulse this Stators-Armatures at same exact controlled oscillations, then We will get a much better synchronized and managed displacement all along the performance."

Does it mean that we can electronically pulsed both-rotor and stator coils IN THE PRECISE SAME TIME IF THE ROTOR COILS ARE IN ASYMMETRIC STATE???
Also that stator coils could be in any symmetric mode?
You just need to pulse them(rotor-stator) in parallel fashion??
Thanks friend
waterfall

Hello Waterfall,

Thanks,

Yes indeed, Waterfall, remember the "signal" to armatures via brushes, gets to "ONLY ONE" (or may be two- at most- if Brush is touching the "In-between" area of contacts therefore connected in parallel) Pairs of Coils isolated from the rest...So take this "Momentum" of rotation into a "Still Paused Frame" and analyze that set up- connections.. We have a Transformer Pulsing Primary(Stator) ..into One or Two Secondaries (Armature Coils)...per nano second of rotation...but that are also set in a Attraction-Repulsion "Fashion Mode" related to Magnetic Fields dispositions...so, we get a sudden drastic mechanical force that replaces Secondary Coils by the "next in line" waiting...to restart the process again...While, already charged, now disconnected Secondary, travels to EXIT OUTPUT Brushes to "deliver" its charge and done with his assignment ...to get "back in line"...This process is excellent, since we are granting them to rest for a bit, thanks to separation from contacts...on every coil in the configuration...time to cool off...discharge go back and recharge...
Therefore pulsing the Stator gives the advantages to REALLY CONTROL the rotation of Inner Coils...from movements as slow as only a Servo-Motor could do...with all the Gear boxes attached to it...all the way to ultra-fast speeds regulated by Stator pulsed signals that create a pulsing Magnetic Field...now, pulsing the Stator magnetic field, creates an inductive collapse...and then Radiant gets in our system...but I will complicate my explanation if I keep going here...however, this is the BEST PART...


Regards


Ufopolitcs

[DadHav]

Hi Netica

thank's very much por the connection plan, very helpfull.

So now my "school motor" generate 12. 5 volt for a measured 8.12 input volts.

Yep a lot to learn.



Hi Dad Hav

No no i am not a long experimenter on this motor, as i began my replication on the 12 of july that is to say 4 days ago HiHi!
And i am trying hard to rightly understand what is going on.
So i am in full discouvering mode with enthousiasm.

So i am now testing all sort of connections and tuning and i am far to be ready for so called scientific measurement .
By chance and for once there is a lot of very good replicators arround, and i have no doubt that this project will go forward and fast.

good luck at all

Laurent

Hello Laurent. I'm always in discovery mode, but my time is running out so I get a little impatient at times and people take me the wrong way. I'm here because I would like to see this be a brilliant discovery and I would like to get into a more sophisticated mode, hopefully where my expertise lies. If this can be done and be an improvement to brushless motors then I'm all eyes and ears and hands on I might add. I'm subscribed to you video channel and always look forward to to seeing something from you when I get my updates from YouTube. If you haven't been over to my channel have a look at one of my motor building tutorials:
Brushless Motor Construction - YouTube
Good luck with your project.
John H.

[DadHav]

Double Shaft

Hello Bert,

Hey, I was just kidding...about the lazy guy...did not meant for you to take it apart...lol

Listen, how many Amps-Volts are you getting out of just the Output terminals, not bridged?

30 is kind of a fine wire, what kind of body you have there?...last time I saw the 7 poles body..similar or could you get a bit higher awg, less turns...I did my three poles TRAXXAS with 26...

Let me know


Regards


Ufopolitics

UFO. I can't remember who suggested putting the shaft in from each side, but it can be done. There has to be some careful polishing after though to get the shaft to run smooth in the bushings. I was wondering since an overlap wind produces a high speed motor already would it be worth a try to increase the number of winds on the prototype? The original motor had 70 turns. Would more than 25 turns fit. Here's a video of the double shaft but I think a single shaft would be the best option:
Double Shaft.mp4 - YouTube
John H

[DadHav]

Hi ufopolitics..you don't stop to surprise us..
"We could pulse this Stators-Armatures at same exact controlled oscillations, then We will get a much better synchronized and managed displacement all along the performance."

Does it mean that we can electronically pulsed both-rotor and stator coils IN THE PRECISE SAME TIME IF THE ROTOR COILS ARE IN ASYMMETRIC STATE???
Also that stator coils could be in any symmetric mode?
You just need to pulse them(rotor-stator) in parallel fashion??
Thanks friend
waterfall

Quick question. Is that a model airplane motor starter? I have a few of them but thought I'd get comfortable before taking them apart.
John H.

[waterfall]

Yes they do work better by pulsing Stators

Hello Waterfall,

Thanks,

Yes indeed, Waterfall, remember the "signal" to armatures via brushes, gets to "ONLY ONE" (or may be two- at most- if Brush is touching the "In-between" area of contacts therefore connected in parallel) Pairs of Coils isolated from the rest...So take this "Momentum" of rotation into a "Still Paused Frame" and analyze that set up- connections.. We have a Transformer Pulsing Primary(Stator) ..into One or Two Secondaries (Armature Coils)...per nano second of rotation...but that are also set in a Attraction-Repulsion "Fashion Mode" related to Magnetic Fields dispositions...so, we get a sudden drastic mechanical force that replaces Secondary Coils by the "next in line" waiting...to restart the process again...While, already charged, now disconnected Secondary, travels to EXIT OUTPUT Brushes to "deliver" its charge and done with his assignment ...to get "back in line"...This process is excellent, since we are granting them to rest for a bit, thanks to separation from contacts...on every coil in the configuration...time to cool off...discharge go back and recharge...
Therefore pulsing the Stator gives the advantages to REALLY CONTROL the rotation of Inner Coils...from movements as slow as only a Servo-Motor could do...with all the Gear boxes attached to it...all the way to ultra-fast speeds regulated by Stator pulsed signals that create a pulsing Magnetic Field...now, pulsing the Stator magnetic field, creates an inductive collapse...and then Radiant gets in our system...but I will complicate my explanation if I keep going here...however, this is the BEST PART...


Regards


Ufopolitcs

Hi Ufopolitcs

I know you work like a "horse" and i don't want you to spent your valued time like an "answering machine",just would like if you can upload video of your working model with copper-copper fashion mode like on your picture with timing switching precise info and performance data!
Thanks for all your efforts!
waterfall

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Dad Hav

Quick question. Is that a model airplane motor starter? I have a few of them but thought I'd get comfortable before taking them apart.
John H.

Hello Dad Hav,

Yes that is a Starter Motor for R/C Gas Engines..., the "Chinese" version we get here of "Torque Master"...is a 12 poles and pretty good for this configurations.

Dad Hav, let me say this before I continue...

I have a great respect for your work, excellent and Mastery of very fine Art Taste, and making from scratch anything you desire, I admire the Master Craftier in you greatly. And I have also followed all your great work for a while on your YT Chanel , is Excellent, and having You here with me, makes me feel very "safe" from the Creation process to be doing parts "not available" anywhere, that I know for you will be a "breeze" to make them real...and we will need you here and very happy...

I have more to come...So far I am waiting for the replication tests to be successful in most making them, so I will not fill up this thread and create out of steps...confusions


[IMG][/IMG]


Regards


Ufopolitics

[IndianaBoys]

UFO. I can't remember who suggested putting the shaft in from each side, but it can be done. There has to be some careful polishing after though to get the shaft to run smooth in the bushings. I was wondering since an overlap wind produces a high speed motor already would it be worth a try to increase the number of winds on the prototype? The original motor had 70 turns. Would more than 25 turns fit. Here's a video of the double shaft but I think a single shaft would be the best option:
Double Shaft.mp4 - YouTube
John H

DadHav, You executed the suggestion beautifully. You do some great work. I think you will be able to create a real nice motor from scratch as UfoPolitics releases more info and more tests are run. Thanks for sharing!

IndianaBoys

[Ufopolitics]

Awesome work!!

UFO. I can't remember who suggested putting the shaft in from each side, but it can be done. There has to be some careful polishing after though to get the shaft to run smooth in the bushings. I was wondering since an overlap wind produces a high speed motor already would it be worth a try to increase the number of winds on the prototype? The original motor had 70 turns. Would more than 25 turns fit. Here's a video of the double shaft but I think a single shaft would be the best option:
Double Shaft.mp4 - YouTube
John H

Great work Hav Dad!!

Well, a double shafted motor we will have super sized ends to do whatever testing is required from "both ends"...grrrrreat!


Thanks


Ufopolitics

[ewizard]

DadHav, RC motors built from scratch - that's impressive. The project here should be a piece of cake for you - especially if you start with pre-built motors. I'm guessing that a lot of people here will be throwing things together in a bubble gum and bailing wire fashion which doesn't always provide the best results. However seeing your video I'm sure you would be doing a much better job. I beg you to have faith in what's been presented here is the real deal and will at the very least be way more efficient. We need someone with your expertise in motors to validate this. You obviously have the talent to create a precision unit and I'm sure you understand the build instructions better than most who have never been inside a motor. If there is even a chance you could make a huge difference for the future generations by providing solid validation of this concept don't you think it's worth the effort? I can see from your vid you are an older gentleman so I understand your concerns in where you spend your time. I'm an older guy too.

Hey I see since the time I started to write this you are already on with building one. Thanks for jumping in!

[john_g]

Charging

Hi All/UFO

I was driving my motor this morning with a 6V SLA, and had connected a 12V SLA across the gen output. What was interesting is that the volts on the charging batt was raising but no amps indicated on the amp meter - any one else tried this? I have just brought 2 identical battery's to look into this further.

@UFO
May I ask how you would wind a VW generator armature? I know many here brought these to try and replicate the lockridge device. It has 30 slots. and maybe use 2 pairs of field coils?

Kind regards

John

[Ufopolitics]

Different Configurations in Design...Sacred Geometry.

Hello to All,

Now before we have been just connecting Pairs to single elements of Commutators matching "perfect"...like Five(5) Pairs to Five (5) Commutator Elements top-below...Now, it could be done "Asymmetrically" also...

Like if We have a 12 Pole Armature...or a 10 Pole Armature...

We could use in a 12 Pole Armature, a combination of what I call the "Sacred Geometry Design", where we wind three Pairs of Coils configuring a "Dual Delta Star" or a David Star...now, three Pairs of Coils will give Us exactly Six terminals (Two per Pair) for 12 X2 Commutator Elements...so, it shouldn't work right?


Well it does, We just have to "blend" commutator elements in groups of Three, (just wire them up through the hooks)...then we will get Three separated continuous elements per commutator...

This will need to do a bit of work right next to each separation of groups of three copper comm elements...open them a bit more the copper, to make space a bit wider by filing them spreading the segment spacing (to avoid heavy arcing, therefore damage to metal plates)

The same thing We could do with a 10 Pole Armature...using a Dual Pentagon Opposed, Design...using every two copper contacts joined at each commutator, and we have 5 Pairs of Coils.

This Motors have incredible torque, I mean great...but besides that, the times of Charging-Discharging are larger in time of being "On"(charging)...as also at Discharge times, that is why we most file the in-between commutator plates a bit wider. Otherwise they will discharge to next randomly closer element not in "Timing" to be done.


[IMG][/IMG]

On this particular set-up,

Dark Blue (N) and Red (S) are Pair #1 (notice they are Parallel.)
Aqua Blue (N) and Orange (S) Pair# 2
Green (N) and Yellow (S) Pair # 3


Regards to All


Ufopolitics

[sebosfato]

Hello to All, Hello Waterfall,Hello Dad Hav, Hello kEhYo77 (Grreat Babies there!!)


Good morning to All,

Yes, I have used Copper_to_Copper set up, and You are absolutely right, They perform much better there, and besides the fact you have mentioned (lack of existence of constant magnetic drag from PM's) there is more to it...

We could pulse this Stators-Armatures at same exact controlled oscillations, then We will get a much better synchronized and managed displacement all along the performance.

This Asymmetrical Armatures will work with Symmetrical Dual, Quad and whatever "Pairs" of numbers combinations you decide to choose for your design...of the Stators Fields. My best connections between them, at this side of the "Road" is to connect them in Parallel, in order that Armature-Stator receive the same exact pulsed signal without distortion-noise from resistance or capacitance on either coils...The other "side" of this is even greater, as the way Radiant Energy induces through air faster than normal Hot Flux...If We maintain the SAME DIRECTION of Windings at Stator and Armatures....Then We get HER to also Induce HER Strength in those Inner Armature Coils...just as I have explained in my first post here...(I am closing the loop, grrreat!!)...Just like a very powerful transformer, but transmitting the energy even though "Isolated Secondaries" are rotating at very high speeds...SHE will "catch up", just because HER great ultra fast speed, way faster than normal electricity...

The Third Advantage to this...(yes, and there is still more), is the fact, that as I have mentioned in my previous Thread about Tapping Radiant Energy with my Motors...We can add Bifilar Wound Stators and get Energy from them through Negative Induction* just using a Pair of Diodes, like I have described and explained there, in my previous little coil set up lighting Neons and CFL's...

A Bifilar Wound Stator will create a much stronger Magnetic Field than just a single wire...keeping resistance at low values, but never below one Ohm...or you would be risking your controller electronics, MOSFET's as low voltage signaling circuitry by too high stresses from HER, coming back at Us at speeds our tronic's can't handle (it never did, as a matter of fact, we've been "patching" so far to get by "half way decently")...but we, at that thread are trying to design enough powerful "Tronics" to handle HER speeds through Isolated Opto's.


There is also the Asymmetrical Wound Stators for this arrangements...but I rather display that part further on as we get the replicas functioning and performing the way I have said...then You all will "finally" trust and believe in me...

Many Regards and thanks


Ufopolitics





[IMG][/IMG]

Hello ufo The only dc motor i get here is exactly this, a starter for R/C airplanes ... Could this be modified for your type of windings?
Do you think there is enough space? I'm new to this...

Thanks

[sebosfato]

In the case here wont you loose torque without closing the magnetic field flux, i mean without the iron case? or iron connection between the electromagnets?

Regards

Sebosfato