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DadHav,
Just fix your brush. Wire it like UFO says (and show us how) and post your results.
Don't give up.
Don't pay attention to any negativity. They have their own motivations.
If the motor wired up to UFO's specificaitons won't work any better than what's out of the box then we can all move on to something else.
No one here should be afraid to show their results, even if it's not positive.
Maybe we are doing something wrong and need to be shown our mistakes?
We all have to learn from our mistakes, or how can we move forward?
At this point who cares about OU. I would be happy to get 50% better performance; and that would still make a major change in this world.
Imagine if all the motors of the world could use 50% less energy? That would make electric cars worth buying.
Cheers,
See everyone. I do still have a friend left!. OK Hagen. There's to much focus on me and not enough on getting the project further ahead. I still need a brush but the motor works. I did rewind but thought I still had a mistake. Oh, man I thought I would have to go to the wood shed with UFO again and bet my butt whipped. Once I removed the indexing bippy from both sides of the brush holder and changed adjustment the motor worked even with the bad brush. I need to get a few things straightened out then I'll post video and if anyone is interested they'd be welcome.
John H.
Hey! Don't wrangle! Shurely we need proof and we will have proof! We are not here for boyish pastimes and hang out only! But one after another! Be patient! Concentrate!
Experts spend hours a day in order to question their doing while others stopped thinking feeling they were professionals.
Great shaft you add there...poor little motor!!...I can only imagine what's gonna happen to it...
Turion: Have you tried to pulse this Motor at different speeds and measure it?
Whenever you do some testing:
Check Motor for "Instant Torque Out" from Zero...or Pick Up Force..
Then, a steady up pulse and deceleration, to check fast drop off curves response...
there are many "Color Curves" Graphics that must be "filled in" in order to render a final conclusion here...
Many thanks!
Cheers
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci
Hey!
there where movies that had less suspense than this thread i watch for few days!
Way better than going to theater .
So a word of caution for potential builders:
Pitfalls:
1. The motor needs a rewound core - this requires high skill,nerves and time. A whole day phase finished with setting the epoxy (windings should be epoxied)
2. The motor needs a modified case - I would strongly advise machining, but manageable on vise and hand work.
3. The motor needs adjustment (tuning the "timing") to the right spot - there might be quite few arrangements and combinations - take this into account.
4. We have not established a standard testing procedure:
What prop (12/6 11/4,5?) at what voltage (12.5?)
what are the RPMs to be expected?
how we tune and to what?
can the other pair of terminals be used and how?
can it be drained?
with a bulb?
Hey! Don't wrangle! Shurely we need proof and we will have proof! We are not here for boyish pastimes and hang out only! But one after another! Be patient! Concentrate!
Hello John!!
Sorry, John, but the child in me came out...
Dad Hav is flying his little red planes ...so I had to say something about my little flying and far more complex crafts...
Did You ever fly a Helicopter Dad Hav???...Uh???...
Stand it right in front of you?? and Hover it??
I bet You have not!!
LOL
Cheers!!
UFO
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci
Hey, listen, if Your entire "believe" in my presentation and work rendered here, is bounded to the Expectations coming from Dad Hav replication...while ignoring other ones already posted here, and working ok...Then, by all means, I am NOT Holding Anyone to stay "attached" here waiting on just "one individual" display of his work...Ok?
Dad Hav main interest is to put My Motor on an R/C Hobbie-Toy Plane...to fly it...
My Goal, Scope and "picture" , my friend, is WAY BIGGER than flying R/C Toys...I have put this Motors, not in Airplanes, that can only fly straight in line...but on Helicopters, that are WAY more complicated to FLY and maneuver, than just a ONE WAY going forward craft...Capisci?
My Goal, My Work...WILL NEVER DEPEND on just ONE individual EVER, is WAY TOO BIG...to just "Seat and Wait"...for His Majesty to make it happen...
However, You could do whatever you please best for you.
As also Dad Hav could either ship in or...ship out, I really couldn't care less...
Capisci Mio Amico?
Gratzie!
UFO
Hi UFO,
Thanks for the response.
If we can make a small motor, for an RC plane, run longer then we can use that knowledge and do wonderful and exciting things on a grand scale! Plus DadHav and the entire RC world would be very happy
Baby steps first, then we can move on to the big boys. Of course you are light years ahead of us. - we are the babys trying to walk...
Thank you for sharing your work and ideas with us.
Hey!
there where movies that had less suspense than this thread i watch for few days!
Way better than going to theater .
So a word of caution for potential builders:
Pitfalls:
1. The motor needs a rewound core - this requires high skill,nerves and time. A whole day phase finished with setting the epoxy (windings should be epoxied)
2. The motor needs a modified case - I would strongly advise machining, but manageable on vise and hand work.
3. The motor needs adjustment (tuning the "timing") to the right spot - there might be quite few arrangements and combinations - take this into account.
4. We have not established a standard testing procedure:
What prop (12/6 11/4,5?) at what voltage (12.5?)
what are the RPMs to be expected?
how we tune and to what?
can the other pair of terminals be used and how?
can it be drained?
with a bulb?
Best regards,
Stevan C.
Hello Stevan,
Pitfalls:
1. The motor needs a rewound core - this requires high skill,nerves and time. A whole day phase finished with setting the epoxy (windings should be epoxied)
Sorry BUT I DO NOT RECOMMEND EPOXY ON ANY MOTOR!!
I have never epoxied any of my motors...it makes completely "non rebuildable" is ever needs to...taking that resin off is a real pain...
I have used Hedges to tighten coils preventing to pop out...
As I also understand epoxying is best...but that is once you are very Happy with it and plan to mount it somewhere...and finish testing...
So a word of caution for potential builders:
Pitfalls:
1. The motor needs a rewound core - this requires high skill,nerves and time.
Please...My grand Daughter can Wind this Motor... please, do not scare people here that are not experienced...there is absolutely no need to "Machine" this toy...
Hey!
there where movies that had less suspense than this thread i watch for few days!
Way better than going to theater .
...And You are adding more "delay time to the suspense movie"? ...by adding a resin that takes from 8-12 hours to settle?
can the other pair of terminals be used and how?
can it be drained?
with a bulb?
I will ask you this...What were you doing with the "Witch" before?...were You able to get "her" in two output cables??
The "cables" are Returned energy that motor did not consume...before it was used to create you Witch against your power...and drained batteries in 5 minutes...
So, if you have nothing to do with them, try connecting them towards your output inverse...Like witch was before then watch performance decay...
Who referred send you here...someone who wanted "to buy time out"... ??
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci
... Have you tried to pulse this Motor at different speeds and measure it?.....
Ufo,
now you suggest to combine your alternative motor design with pulsed DC - right?
And you suggest next to reuse our DC pulser from "10529-my-motors-got-me-tap-into-radiant-energy" thread and find the sweet spot where SHE enters gently and powerful - right?
Now the question: what about the output diodes? Are they obsolete because the commutator does the switching at harvest coils?
Please delay your answer if you feel it is to early to proceed deeper into the matter.
Thanks for returning and sharing!
JohnStone
Experts spend hours a day in order to question their doing while others stopped thinking feeling they were professionals.
Sorry, John, but the child in me came out...
Dad Hav is flying his little red planes ...so I had to say something about my little flying and far more complex crafts...
Did You ever fly a Helicopter Dad Hav???...Uh???...
Stand it right in front of you?? and Hover it??
I bet You have not!!
LOL
Cheers!!
UFO
Ha ha ha, Oh Man I got you on this one. You stepped right onto my turf now. But first let me thank you for not biting my head off right off the bat.
Here is a clip of a quick test of a #16 key chain camera. The camera is stuck on the top of my Multi-copter and I did a quick HOVER test right in front of me in the back yard. Camera16 test - YouTube
Hope the link works.
This is on a 4 motor camera drone. So you see it's more than just my little red airplanes that I want motors for. As a matter of fact I saw you just mentioned the brusless motor with the photo sensors. It reminds me of the Large printer motors I use in videos. They are hall sensor comutators though. I'm sure you could do as you illustrat in a three phase configuration, but you know that alread. I'm hoping that I might see some of whats going on here in a three phase version. Ha, I don't mean all the fighting and I would never even dream of starting the thread myself. I will say this though. If you could improve the efficiency of the outrunner hobby motor then you will be heard around the world, but testing testing testing Ha. Just having fun.
Thanks
John H.
For those of you who have not wound you armature yet.
I have rewound my armature a number of time because of various reasons, not sure the direction was right, not enough turns, too many amps whens running. So I decided because of consistency I wanted to have my modified motor as close to the original motor as possible. This way any test I perform would have some value.
I first tried #28 wire and decided it would not fit well enough only because I had the wire sitting around. I went to RS and got the red magnet wire #30 and tried that and the amp draw was way to high. I decided to look at the original motor and see what size wire it was using. It turn out that the 5 pole armature had 5 coils using #32 wire with 66 turns. How perfect! I have rewound using #32 wire and split the coil to have 33 turns on each half as per the winding diagram given to us by UFO.
The motor now draws 800 milliamps and stays cool, this is good.
You along with erfinder, farmhand, & barbosi should go create your own thread if you want to discuss what UfoPolitics is doing. Those that would be interested in following would know where to look.
IndianaBoys
Hi @DadHav
The IndianaBoys user... he does not speak on behalf of all.
My wish is that you continue here.
Your comments are very appreciated by me.
If we can make a small motor, for an RC plane, run longer then we can use that knowledge and do wonderful and exciting things on a grand scale! Plus DadHav and the entire RC world would be very happy
Baby steps first, then we can move on to the big boys. Of course you are light years ahead of us. - we are the babys trying to walk...
Thank you for sharing your work and ideas with us.
You could get this Motors built and in excellent running-timing set shape and performance...but installing them in a Model R/C is something else, my friend...they will work with a Brushed ESC...But Idk if you read my three pages I posted last night...mainly first page first part...and they will perform better than original ones, related to Batteries drain time, but the thing is this little motor has a bit more weight...than original...and you know in Planes that is a negative deal...unless it could exceed RPM's way above fact one...
The second part that I wrote on my Three Page was the fact this motors have Three Gates that could be controlled...
1-Input Flow
2-Output Flow
3-By Flow [connection bridge between In-Out Flow] (Lower Two Terminals We been Jumping so far)
This Gates if, regulated by a proper controlled circuitry,machine will render even better...
However, like I wrote before, I have adapted this Motors to some R/C Toys, like Choppers and Hovercrafts...and they do perform much, much better than original, while lasting much longer "play time"...
The Hover Motor was even smaller than this R/S Model here...
My Grand Daughter wound it...
Regards and Cheers
UFO
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci
Ufo,
now you suggest to combine your alternative motor design with pulsed DC - right?
And you suggest next to reuse our DC pulser from "10529-my-motors-got-me-tap-into-radiant-energy" thread and find the sweet spot where SHE enters gently and powerful - right?
Now the question: what about the output diodes? Are they obsolete because the commutator does the switching at harvest coils?
Please delay your answer if you feel it is to early to proceed deeper into the matter.
Thanks for returning and sharing!
JohnStone
Hello Dear John,
Yes John, exactly right...
Simply combining both In-Out through by pass jumper we get Output plus Source, and so far we have been doing it by linear straight feed, and show a "Two Plus" Battery full V+Out"...However, when we pulse them, the whole picture will shift, we will be reducing or "gating" the Input, therefore the Output now will NOT be the full source voltage like when was connected straight to Batt...then watch output now...while measuring Input pulses.
The second part is to add the two diodes...at that Output...and "diverge energies" like we been doing before...and watch it grow under a mechanical load...where a small light (please, not a CFL 120V... ) an LED...will show brightness at higher loads slow down RPM's...
John this Motors as you could see are based on Two Inductors rotating and being replaced constantly, (no matter how many poles they have, and of course this is based on Two Brush Systems) where at least One at In, and One at Out, are always there, and here comes the SEPIC Converter to the Controlling Game...which is nothing more than a Non Polarized Cap, and One Diode...Biasing output...while Inductors deliver a rotation...and we pulse Inductors...I will display a CAD of this Circuit later on...SEPIC will control the Input and also Output...
But there is more...this motors will also could be connected so at certain times of performance we could "Boost" them...gaining even greater speed...but sacrificing-killing output on the "trade"...This feature could be used for driving crafts and vehicles...like a Full Blast speed required at full throat...to Haul Out...(I am trying to get Dad Hav interested to Boost his Planes...lol) so it is understood is for short times only...
Then we will move to the "regeneration" of Batteries (not over-unity...We can't say that!!..Physics do not like that!!... )...
But The SEPIC testing will be fun...and it is a simple deal...
By the way John, did you had time to look at the Three Pole Infra Red ??...pls would love your opinion there..
...And the two Diodes will never be "obsolete" John...did you see my Fiberglass Stator with the two diodes video?...lighting up Five CFL's?
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci
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