My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Turion...

UFO,
Regarding my BIG project. I have a STAMP I can use to control frequency and pulse width. I have another processor ordered. I have a variable voltage/amperage power supply that can control voltage and current. I also have a bunch of high voltage mosfets to use for switching. If there is something I cannot make myself, I can have it made. I have a friend with a machine shop he lets me use when he is at work and not using that particular machine. Sometimes I have to stand around for a while and just watch him while he is using the one I need, but it is worth it to get it done for free.

But like I said, I will follow your directions to the T, so I will build a smaller one first.

The radio shack motor is too much of a toy and there are too many variables between one and another to do accurate testing. I pulled six of them out of the packages and tested them stock and the amp draw was all over the map. This is not scientific enough for someone like me (sorry about that) so I am going with a bigger motor. I have built three of the modified RS ones so far, taken them apart and put them back together. I have used both the 30 gauge and the 32 gauge wire.

I have two of the Razor Scooter motors 16 pole, and almost have one together. It will by Monday or Tuesday (Can't work on the weekends--those I spend with my wife) Depending on whether I can get a new longer shaft at the Metric store or have to use the old one and one from a second motor. I have a stock Razor Scooter motor. I will hook to another motor to do testing and record all the data. I will run it at different voltages and amps and record the data. I will run the connected motor as a generator with various loads and record that data also. Then tear it down to pull the commutator for the modified motor build. I have a third Razor Scooter motor on order so that I will always have a stock one around for comparisons.

Dave

Hello Turion,

Yeah, the R/S was for everyone to have an idea of what we got here...but not intended to go through "Heavy Testing"...I got those...

Your best bet, would be to get that Razor one 16 Poles and like Matt did, get the adapt from the 20 Poles...it is divisible by four...and still get the coils to go 4 poles 4X4=16, the only diff is you will have Sixteen Pairs instead of twenty...so, no big deal...it could be done with 18 gauge...
Now after you start that, try to find then the right tubing that have a very close Air Gap with armature...and start the project on the Asymmetrical Stator...Then all you have to do is take Armature off from Magnets and insert it in the Stator casing...make some "Air Mounting Brackets"...get the bearings...and brushes mounted to it...make it OPEN...mount it in wood or Plastic (Lexan or Plexiglass), add some rubber at bottom...or if want to go "sophisticated" in a Marble Tile...

Now, remember to wind Stator same direction as Armature windings...this is very important!

The Razor has Four Magnets and Four Brushes right?

Ok if they do...the way to connect inside, within the Housings as follows...

1: Decide which set will be your Input Brushes..Mark them their respective (+/-), and connect them in "PARALLEL" between them two...
2:The Output Collecting Brushes, connect them in "SERIES" between them, taking into account which one is Positive and which Negative...In my drawing they are color coded...Red-Black...

The Stator you could try different choices...as Aluminum...tacking the fins with a Mig Welder...and screw in Caps...and side thread to add bolts to hold to brackets...

But also try a Stator in a Fiberglass model...just because I have a nice set up... incorporating Carbon Fiber above glass...wound same way as Copper, but melted in Polyester resin also...

I believe you will have a pretty good start right there...and will have lot's of work to do, so you can leave me alone...

Just kidding...

Take care


UFO

[LutherG]

Hello Pmazz850,

I am making thr 3D Model, to render an animation with the proper winding...
as also the CAD of Modular Lamination Pattern, The 3D Volume and wiring is giving more work than making the actual piece...

The Wiring is designed to accomplish the same wounds as it would be a straight coil...but using some "turn around" to allow Armature Housing get through...Fins are to hold wire in place, being able to wind from one side to other...and at the same time are heat sinks when cut in Al.

Yes Armature could be also made that way, very good!!

The issue here is not to let the Hot Field thrive, by Non Ferrous Materials...The SHE will take higher percentage of HER Flux...

The Game is over Guys...


Cheers


UFO

That new video of yours is an amazing demonstration UFO! That housing can be scaled up to any size needed or desired... Thank you for posting this.

Cheers,

Luther

[Ufopolitics]

Not to be considered...

Hi Ufo,

Just trying to understand the winding of the 12 pole motor.

1- I find that 4 poles energize both north and south at the same time in the center of the magnets when the brushes pass from one set of 4 commutators to the next, touching both at the same time.
Isn't this wasting energy?
Does this disrupt the coasting phase at all?
Or is it to negligible to be any problem?


N|N|N|N|o|o|S|S|S|S|o|o
S|S|o|o|N|N|N|N|o|o|N|N
/\/\----------/\/\---------


If changes to the commutators are made -
If one of the commutators is a free spacer between the sets of 3 commutators (with the brush being no bigger than it) then one set of coils will be off before the others are on.
or is this just pointless because it will be detrimental in other ways.

2- When the coils turn off and are in their coasting stage
Does the polarity of the pole reverse? (either from north to south or south to north). I believe it does.
Is it powerful enough to have an effect on the power of the motor?


3- If so, then (with spacer commutator and the 3 sets of 3 commutators) if the 4 poles in question (mentioned above) with shared windings that first switch off have now reversed polarity, and are also energized by the next coil that turn on, as the windings overlap their poles. Their polarities will now be the same and may be an enhancement to the flow of energy.

Again this may be to negligible to bother with as the motors work, but I'm trying to learn and want to know if my thinking is correct or if I have got things wrong.

Thanks
netica

Great analysis Netica!!

However, they just energize two Pairs for a fraction when running the in between...that is why I wrote to file the space between them...and If can fill it with High Temp good epoxy...

They never reverse ...this is normal in all this motors...not a waste of energy...we get it back at discharge output...Plus you have to realize something else...remember how to calculate Inductors in Parallel?...

...is less spent energy...than serial connection...


I try that leaving an Element not connected between, it works but then Motor has a "Dead Start Point"...would have to be turned on, like an Old Ford Model A...


Regards


UFO

[dR-Green]

G'Day DrGreen

If you have read all the posts here you will notice that there is so much controversy about "what was, what is, and what can be"
ON THIS THREAD HERE UFO has stated that he is disclosing what he has found to work and he is helping everyone that wants to to understand what it is that he has done.
He has also stated that if any one wants to question things or show how to do these things they should start their own thread and do it there as all the bickering that goes on only distracts from what it is he is showing us what he is doing after his reading and experimenting on the things that TESLA has showed the world in his time.
Up to now things have changed and I am sure if Tesla was alive now he would do things differently and probably better than what any of us could do

Dr Green I have a house with a 5kw solar system and every room has a CFL bulb in it.
I and all the ones actively here replicating or trying to replicate what UFO is showing us are very pleased to listen what UFO is teaching us.

I do not mean to be insulting or offensive but I find that your comments are very distracting You stated above that Anyone is free to do whatever they like

UFO is here doing what he likes we the ones activly participating in replicating what he is sharing are doing what we like If you don't want to replicate and post your results of your replication what he is sharing.

Please start your own thread and show those that want to listen to how you do your thing and please do not disrupt the flow of this thread.
Kindest Regards
Ian Koglin

Tesla references were made, so Tesla material was referred to. It's not irrelevant or distracting, I can see how it can be applied here, and I think the results would be very interesting and would take this whole thing even further. I have shown how the disruptive discharge isn't being used, so the method of producing the effects that Tesla claimed isn't being applied in this case. Therefore if you put two and two together you will see that there has been no distraction and it's in fact an opportunity, all I have done is provide some more of Tesla's material. That is all.

[edit] Anyway UFO has politely asked not to continue with it and the disruptive discharge material is there for all to see so I will let everyone get back to work

[Ufopolitics]

That new video of yours is an amazing demonstration UFO! That housing can be scaled up to any size needed or desired... Thank you for posting this.

Cheers,

Luther

Exactly Right Luther G...Any size you want... and very light...

Now, I think you guys know this...Carbon Fiber MESH,FABRIC...CAN NOT BE USED FOR THIS STATORS!!

CF in a MESH or short circuit fabric, Will kill Radiant Energy Field instantly...

It could be added on top of Glass...but wounded in just straight multiple strands...They call it TOW...Right Bob French and Dana?


Regards


UFO

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Dr Green, Hello Ian Koglin

Tesla references were made, so Tesla material was referred to. It's not irrelevant or distracting, I can see how it can be applied here, and I think the results would be very interesting and would take this whole thing even further. I have shown how the disruptive discharge isn't being used, so the method of producing the effects that Tesla claimed isn't being applied in this case. Therefore if you put two and two together you will see that there has been no distraction and it's in fact an opportunity, all I have done is provide some more of Tesla's material. That is all.

[edit] Anyway UFO has politely asked not to continue with it and the disruptive discharge material is there for all to see so I will let everyone get back to work

Hello to Both of You Ian and Dr Green,

@Ian Koglin, Thanks Kogs, I know Dr Green before I even get involved here in my first Thread...He is a friend...is Ok...And by the way, I am very Happy you got your Oscillator going great!!...Darn Resistor!!...

Dr Green: I know what you want to do to "My Motors"...and I won't let you!!

I have posted here a "Hint" about Ed's Gray Motor...in a back thread...about Forced Resonance...Coil-Cap Dance...right?

There are many ways this Motors could be "hooked up" to run them at excellent perfomance...As I also had mentioned the SEPIC Controller-Converter...


Kind regards to both


UFO

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Bert

UFO,
So there are three 4-poles groups.
Could you please tell me which pole should be added to the green group, the pole on the left (CCW) or on the right (CW) to the group?
My commutators have their pole-openings right over the fins, is this correct?

Thank you very much.

Regards,
Bert

Hello Bert,

There are Three Pairs of Coils there...Yes each group "grabs" four poles.

Pair 1: BLUE (NORTH)and RED (SOUTH)
Pair 2: Teal (N)-Orange(S)
Pair 3: Green(N)-Yellow(S)

Commutators Elements/Contacts/Teeth s are connected in Groups of Four. Therefore, we have now a Three Commutator Element disposed at 120 degrees (The Black marks are the SEPARATIONS between the Groups of Four...

Coils grab Four Poles to be wounded...

It does not matter that your Commutator is set a bit Off...You could always re-connect them one teeth back...However, the best thing would be to put it on CAD...and rotate it...basically at critical angles...(when starting and ending the sequence of contacts) But, again this Motor allows great space(wide angle)...of Interactions...so you will be ok...

After You get it...it could also be set on "timing" by rotating both Upper Casing (brushes) at same rate, forward or backwards...just a bit though!!

Let me know if you understood me well...


Thanks


UFO

[mikec_ut]

Letting the motor brushes seat in a bit longer. After 15 minutes plus and no changes in amp draw, a motor cool down I did the following tests.

1. RS-5Pole #1: unloaded 400 milliamps
2. RS-5Pole #2: unloaded 700 milliamps
3. RS-5PoleMod: unloaded 1.1 amps

using #1 as motor and #2 as generator: 1.2 amp with 8.3 volts
using #1 as motor and RSMod as generator: 1.2 amp with 4.5 volts on A and 4.7 on B

using #2 as motor and #1 as generator: 1.2 amp with 12.2 volts
using #2 as motor and RSMod as generator: 1.1 amp with 5.1 volts on A and 5.1 volts on B

using RSMod as motor and #1 as generator: 1.9 amp with 13.6 volts on #1 and 6.2 volts on A :: 2.1 amp with 13.9 volts on #1 and 5.8 volts on B

using RSMod as motor and #2 as generator: 2.2 amp with 12.1 volts on #2 and 5.8 volts on A :: 2.1 amp with 11.8 volts on #2 and 5.8 volts on B

The modified (RSMod) motor has 2 sets of brushes that can be connected as a motor and a generator. As shown above by the A and B values.

A 9 inch prop with a 6 pitch was used:
#1 2.8 amps
#2 3.1 amps
RSM A 3.4 amps
RSM B 3.4 amps (started to smoke but I saved it and cooled it very quickly)

To do load tests I think a current limiting Power Supply is needed.

Just a few tests - no load on generators. no RPM yet.

You can take it for what it's worth. I have not done any stress tests yet.

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Mike Ut

Letting the motor brushes seat in a bit longer. After 15 minutes plus and no changes in amp draw, a motor cool down I did the following tests.

1. RS-5Pole #1: unloaded 400 milliamps
2. RS-5Pole #2: unloaded 700 milliamps
3. RS-5PoleMod: unloaded 1.1 amps

using #1 as motor and #2 as generator: 1.2 amp with 8.3 volts
using #1 as motor and RSMod as generator: 1.2 amp with 4.5 volts on A and 4.7 on B

using #2 as motor and #1 as generator: 1.2 amp with 12.2 volts
using #2 as motor and RSMod as generator: 1.1 amp with 5.1 volts on A and 5.1 volts on B


using RSMod as motor and #1 as generator: 1.9 amp with 13.6 volts on #1 and 6.2 volts on A :: 2.1 amp with 13.9 volts on #1 and 5.8 volts on B

using RSMod as motor and #2 as generator: 2.2 amp with 12.1 volts on #2 and 5.8 volts on A :: 2.1 amp with 11.8 volts on #2 and 5.8 volts on B

The modified (RSMod) motor has 2 sets of brushes that can be connected as a motor and a generator. As shown above by the A and B values.

A 9 inch prop with a 6 pitch was used:
#1 2.8 amps
#2 3.1 amps
RSM A 3.4 amps
RSM B 3.4 amps (started to smoke but I saved it and cooled it very quickly)

To do load tests I think a current limiting Power Supply is needed.

Just a few tests - no load on generators. no RPM yet.

You can take it for what it's worth. I have not done any stress tests yet.

Hello Mike,

Did You try Two (2) Mod's, one as Motor and one as Gen connected the Both ways they could be, as the Diagrams below shows...


[IMG][/IMG]

Regards


UFO

[Bob Smith]

Reply to Sanskara 316 re 3-Pole Motor

hello Bob, I just wondering if you could post a picture of what you did with the brushes, I'll start winding my 3 pole also, is a 12 volt motor from a car fan. or maybe can you explain it more. thanks. Anyways here is my 3pole motor. I just used a fusing rubber tape to join the casing. Its holding up well I think

Hi Sanskara. Sorry about the late reply; I was out of town today. Your motor looks good - both commutators on, and a decent set of brushes, compared to some of the cheaper toy brushes. It looks like your motor housing is cylindrical, which might make it easier than mine was. Basically, you need to rotate the end caps (with brushes inside) 90 degrees from their original position, so that they extend inward from the space between the magnets. In the case of my motor, this meant turning the end caps 90 degrees, and cutting a slot in them so they'd fit snugly over the semi-squared ends of the motor. If your motor is cylindrical, it should be easier. Once I did this, it fired up like a charm, and is running on a 1.5 volt "C" battery.

I tried to post a photo, but couldn't figure out how. Could someone please explain how I can get a photo into the body of the message? Otherwise, I'll try and post it in photobucket, and paste in the URL (I'd prefer to post it in the msg). Might take a couple of days, but will do it as soon as I can.

I hope this helps, Sanskara. Don't give up!
Bob

[SkyWatcher]

Hi bob, in imageshack, there is an embed this image option, i select the forum script and copy and paste into message. Maybe there is something similar in photobucket.
peace love light
tyson

[Rl2003]

Hello UFO,

Great work on the 3D rendering of the motor housing above.
I could use a software like that. Are you using Solid Works or something else.
Have you heard of Kubotek. I had a demo version I got to play with for a while, but it expired, it is a really fun software to use.

I was looking for your coil windig diagram of a 7 stator motor. I think you might have taken
it down.
If I remember correctly it was coiled around three stators at a time.
Could you post it again??
Mark

[Sanskara316]

Hi Sanskara. Sorry about the late reply; I was out of town today. Your motor looks good - both commutators on, and a decent set of brushes, compared to some of the cheaper toy brushes. It looks like your motor housing is cylindrical, which might make it easier than mine was. Basically, you need to rotate the end caps (with brushes inside) 90 degrees from their original position, so that they extend inward from the space between the magnets. In the case of my motor, this meant turning the end caps 90 degrees, and cutting a slot in them so they'd fit snugly over the semi-squared ends of the motor. If your motor is cylindrical, it should be easier. Once I did this, it fired up like a charm, and is running on a 1.5 volt "C" battery.

I tried to post a photo, but couldn't figure out how. Could someone please explain how I can get a photo into the body of the message? Otherwise, I'll try and post it in photobucket, and paste in the URL (I'd prefer to post it in the msg). Might take a couple of days, but will do it as soon as I can.

I hope this helps, Sanskara. Don't give up!
Bob

I think that's the way I did it, but Ive not yet tested, not done with the winding yet, I have attached the photo, correct me if I'm wrong.

Hello Ufo, I just want to know what gauge is better Thinner and more turns or thicker with fewer turns. tnx And does the 3pole have disadvantages compare with the 5pole setup and up?? Tnx

[Sanskara316]

2nd try with the pic

[waterfall]

test

Sorry haven't figured out how to post pictures yet???

here is an attachment

Ron

Hi Ron
Nice work.Did you tested?Have you any comparable results?
Waterfall