My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Rosehillworks

@ Ufo
Thanks for your last Utube video!!

Please let me know if I am wrong but I think the green arrow should be like this.
I am just trying to keep it clear in my mind.

[ATTACH]11811[/ATTACH]

Hello Rosehillworks,

Your Arrow is way more detailed than mine... ...it runs perfectly through circuit lines...mine are a bit "free style"...lol, since I wanted to show the currents through Coil L2
Let me explain, since I know how you are analyzing it...and SEPIC's behavior is not simple as normally operating...

I know you are looking at the diagram as two static Inductors on top of a Circuit Board...However, here, I have put them to work...to "sweat" to "earn their bread"... ...they were too lazy in their Air Conditioning rooms, just seating there pretty...

So now, in order to understand it, you must consider they are Electromagnetically Exchanging Flux and Electric charges Dynamically between them, therefore releasing energy from inside their center cores outwards...and as a matter of fact I am "replacing them at every degree of rotation", not only from closed Q1 (and I made a small error and got also "S1"in description...but I meant Switch 1 =Q1...) but also from the Mechanical Commutator switching them...

This I know complicates things a little bit...However, the best approach that I have used, is to "PAUSE" Mechanical Switching... analyze, then rotate... and analyze again...
So here goes my explanation...

You must "see" that two Inductors are getting energized "from inside out" also through a "Secondary Circuit" not "visible" in 2D Diagrams...a mechanical one.

Q1 closed, L1 charges, increase current (nanosecond pause here)
C1 (if the analysis refers to starting from Zero, it does nothing on first Pulse), if circuit was On, previously, then it backs Up L2 Charge, either obtained by rotation/replacement of Coils, or by C1 being charged at previous Off stage, or both simultaneously depending on alignment of Pulses versus Comm switching speed / note that Q2 is closed, and has an intrinsic diode or additional ones to protect the Oscillator negative switching side not allowing Positive charges...but ONLY a Negative charge to get through MOSFET...C1 is swinging left negative, since Q1 circuit being closed, is charging that leg negatively ...
reaching L2 and charging it or creating a resonance with L2, since if you look at it they are NOW in Parallel connection.

Regards


UFO

[Ufopolitics]

Bifilar Wound

UFO,

Dana tells me that he tried to sign on and it says that he has been banned from the forum. Surely there must be some mistake. I haven't read every post lately, but has he said something to deserve this? Please check into it. He is very committed to this technology and you.

I just looked at your YouTube of the SEPTIC motor winding. Wow. In order to make a strong motor would we wind a multiple number of wires together at one time, or one at a time?

Bob

Hello Bob,

Bifilar wind, like you just did before..
Now Dana wrote to me...I did not know about this!!??

I just read his mail to my other mailbox...

Let me know, as I ask him what could I do about it?


Regards Bob

UFO

[Rl2003]

Open Case

To all,

Looks like this tread has move into over drive, and moved past the small
motors.

I spent last night converting a small DC motor to an Open Case design.
This way I will be able to see everything while the motor is running, and to
be able to adjust the brushes on the fly.
I replaced the one shaft with two joined in the middle and removed the steel
shell and replaced it with two plexiglass holders.
There seems to be very little magnetic drag with this one.
I hope to have this wound and running in the next couple days, and I will
post a video of it finished.
Here are some pictures in my Photobucket.

Mark

Asymmetric motor pictures by AMP2000 - Photobucket

[Ufopolitics]

WOW Dad Hav!!

[QUOTE=DadHav;203341]

Hello Dad Hav,



UFO. I did say the the current load was the same as the incandescent bulbs in the series parallel configuration. I did use a diode on the output of the Mod, as well as not, I did say the battery test was only a setup to try the sniffer coil. I can see clearly that you will slay every bit of testing by me even though some think everything that some one spends time on could expose something unknown. I came here because I though it would be fun. So far it has been the worst experience I have ever had on the Internet. I don't understand your wise cracks about the bulb. LED bulbs at Auto zone cost $12-$16 dollars, and there seems to be no special circuitry than two resistors. I thought I was testing similar to what you explained I was doing it in good faith. If the test didn't look like it needed any further data collection who cares what the RPM is! I can't help that it didn't come out the way you want.
It's nice to see how you are encouraging anyone else on this forum to test anthing. I wish everyone luck.
J

You are taking my comment "too seriously", my friend!!

Cheer up, calm down...pls..

It really did not make sense to me the way you have written the testing...and Dad Hav, you are some kind of "Figure" into this world of little motors and deals...so "EVERY THING YOU WRITE HERE",....will be USED against my replications...Do You Realize that my friend?

So therefore you should write with more detail, and do tests that make sense man!!

You have mentioned that you connected that charged up Batt, BEFORE you try the Sniffer Coil...is written there Dad Hav!!..I just Copy-Paste your own words...
Never mentioned about putting "A DIODE" there at any point...How could I know?

Yes RPM's DO MIND!!...You may think Not...I say YES they DO...IS MY DEAL, not yours

You test first the LED's on Mod, then on Supply??...Now if you made a stupid mistake like this one...WHY WRITE ABOUT IT?...
To Discredit later on and then be SARCASTIC about the Joule Thief Guy...showing off?

I have read you ever since you walked in, Dad Hav, I may have an accent...but my English is excellent, friend...and learned "In School"...not on the Streets...I can read "between your lines" maybe better than you...

You have kept a very Negative attitude towards my Motors here...since the beginning Bro...I read ALL your Ironies and Sarcasm...but I did not said a WORD..

I told you before...if you would not see ANY Potential in My Disclosure here, as applying it to your Model Airplanes...

PLEASE BRO!!

I have written it very clear before...about it

So FAR YOU have NOT displayed a SINGLE positive thing about my work...except that "You do not understand it quite well"...(stated on your video, your own voice)

The other "Positive than Negative" comment, was your other mistake about winding it wrong...like to open up a "CRACK OF HOPES in Heavens" from "His Majesty Dad Hav"!!!

I displayed for you, very clear TWO WAYS DIAGRAMS to test this Motors in Pairs...face to face ...But That ONLY test I requested from you, You could not do it...giving stupid excuses about not being able to build a cheap Chinese made piece of crap...knowing you Bro, you can make a Motor out of a Coke Can...!!

However, all tests rendered by you so far are JUST NEGATIVE ONES..yes,...How could I take that "Approach"??!!

So do whatever, I said it before, I want positive thinking here...NEGATIVE ONES COULD GO TO HE....
AVEN...I DO NOT NEED THEM...

But hey thanks...I will make a video myself of all this testings I did not have the time to do them before, thought it was easier for most...reason why I chose that Motor and not a $100.00 Expensive Ones ...piece of cake bro!

GOODBYE


UFO

[bobfrench@fastmail.fm]

UFO,

Can you contact the owner of the Energetic Forum and ask him about it? Perhaps he meant to ban someone else and put Dana out by mistake. There was a fairly viscous post right after one of Dana's. (?)

Thanks,

Bob

[Ufopolitics]

That looks excellent work friend!!

To all,

Looks like this tread has move into over drive, and moved past the small
motors.

I spent last night converting a small DC motor to an Open Case design.
This way I will be able to see everything while the motor is running, and to
be able to adjust the brushes on the fly.
I replaced the one shaft with two joined in the middle and removed the steel
shell and replaced it with two plexiglass holders.
There seems to be very little magnetic drag with this one.
I hope to have this wound and running in the next couple days, and I will
post a video of it finished.
Here are some pictures in my Photobucket.

Mark

Asymmetric motor pictures by AMP2000 - Photobucket

Hello Rl2003,

Excellent work!
Very nice, where did you get those brush casings with Brush mounted separate?...they look awesome!!...Easier to test and to observe.

Looking forward to see your results soon!!


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

I Will Bob...

UFO,

Can you contact the owner of the Energetic Forum and ask him about it? Perhaps he meant to ban someone else and put Dana out by mistake. There was a fairly viscous post right after one of Dana's. (?)

Thanks,

Bob

I will write to Aaron , I told Dana about it...that I will do it...

However, once Erfinder came ranting before...in my other Thread, (yes, We come from a long way Man!!... ) I wrote to Aaron about it...but He did not get back to me...

And I still see "This Guy" ranting everywhere, and even here (like nothing ever happened in a previous post)...maybe He has some "Influential Authority" here, who knows...

Let's see what happens after I write to Aaron Murakami...



Warm Regards My Friend!!

Ufopolitics

[Rl2003]

Brush Casings

Hello Rl2003,

Excellent work!
Very nice, where did you get those brush casings with Brush mounted separate?...they look awesome!!...Easier to test and to observe.

Looking forward to see your results soon!!


Regards


Ufopolitics

Thanks UFO,

They are used motors I picked up at a surplus store.
ORL,FL. Only wish they had a lot of them. There are only a few left.
They would be great for everyone to learn from, very easy to take apart,
Brush holders just snap into the casing and the magnets where not glued
in at all. Just remove the shafts and com. and there you have it. I could
have left them in the metal housing but I wanted to see whats happening
inside. If anything....

Its a seven pole motor and smaller than the five pole I did prior, so it will take
a little longer to wind but it sould be a screamer.

Mark

[Ufopolitics]

Very Interesting Pictures there my Friend...Thanks!!

To all,

Looks like this tread has move into over drive, and moved past the small
motors.

I spent last night converting a small DC motor to an Open Case design.
This way I will be able to see everything while the motor is running, and to
be able to adjust the brushes on the fly.
I replaced the one shaft with two joined in the middle and removed the steel
shell and replaced it with two plexiglass holders.
There seems to be very little magnetic drag with this one.
I hope to have this wound and running in the next couple days, and I will
post a video of it finished.
Here are some pictures in my Photobucket.

Mark

Asymmetric motor pictures by AMP2000 - Photobucket

Hello again,

But I noticed this nice pictures of a great old DynaMotor...that "THING" is awesome!!...Lovely, beautiful!

I "borrowed"(stole actually...lol) some of those pic's from your Photobucket Album, I hope is Ok...since I will LOVE for MANY others Here to see them...

The Original Factory Labeled Spec's...of a DynaMotor:
Input: 14.0Volts/6.5 Amps
Output:375V/150 Amps?

We do not see ANY forms of "Attachments" from this Machine to be hooking to any other means of Pulleys, elongated shafts, no connections at all to be Driven by a Gas Engine...
I am honestly not familiar with the way they do this...and so hugely, and massively big difference in Watts Input versus Watts Output?


[IMG][/IMG]


[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

What do "Our Skeptics and Pessimists Friends" have to say about this Machine?


WIKIPEDIA: motor-generator (an M-G set or a dynamotor for dynamo-motor) is a device for converting electrical power to another form. Motor-generator sets are used to convert frequency, voltage, or phase of power. They may also be used to isolate electrical loads from the electrical power supply line. Large motor-generators were widely used to convert industrial amounts of power while smaller motor-generators (such as the one shown in the picture) were used to convert battery power to higher DC voltages.

Low-powered devices such as vacuum tube mobile radio receivers did not use motor-generators. Instead, they would typically use an inverter circuit consisting of a vibrator (a self-exciting relay) and a transformer to produce the B+ voltages required for the vacuum tubes.

While a motor-generator set may consist of distinct motor and generator machines coupled together, a single unit motor-generator will have both rotor coils of the motor and the generator wound around a single rotor, and both coils share the same outer field coils or magnets. Typically the motor coils are driven from a commutator on one end of the shaft, when the generator coils output to another commutator on the other end of the shaft. The entire rotor and shaft assembly is smaller in size than a pair of machines, and may not have any exposed drive shafts.



Many Regards, and awesome pictures!!


UFO

[hello_all]

General Electric Dynamotor - YouTube
Westinghouse Dynamotor in working order - YouTube

here it is dynamotor..

[Rl2003]

DYNA Motor

[QUOTE=Ufopolitics;203374]Hello again,

But I noticed this nice pictures of a great old DynaMotor...that "THING" is awesome!!...Lovely, beautiful!

The Original Factory Labeled Spec's...of a DynaMotor:
Input: 14.0Volts/6.5 Amps
Output:375V/150 Amps?

Sorry UFO,

I believe that is .150 Amps, Not C>1 but a little over half output to input.
Why I posted those pictures is the different shaped brushes (pointed)
and there is more com. on the output side. Also the similarity of what we are doing here.
I have one that I could dissect. For RD of course. Just to see how it is wound.
Maybe it could be wound with your winding design.

Mark

[DadHav]

Ain't Stupid

UFO,

Can you contact the owner of the Energetic Forum and ask him about it? Perhaps he meant to ban someone else and put Dana out by mistake. There was a fairly viscous post right after one of Dana's. (?)

Thanks,

Bob

You are taking my comment "too seriously", my friend!!

Cheer up, calm down...pls..

It really did not make sense to me the way you have written the testing...and Dad Hav, you are some kind of "Figure" into this world of little motors and deals...so "EVERY THING YOU WRITE HERE",....will be USED against my replications...Do You Realize that my friend

------------- I'm not here to discredit you. Why would tests I do be used against you? As a matter of fact I spent long hard hours on the last video and tried everything in my power to find something that would really impress everyone. At the end of the day, evening and into the morning hours I did the best I could. I was not going to post the video because I knew it would be disappointing to you and the group, but if I didn't it would look like I flunked out. I thought I did the best I could to support you with what I had to work with.

So therefore you should write with more detail, and do tests that make sense man!!

-------------------This test should have been straight forward, an easy success with the LED's. My test was lacking information but so was your information. The replacement LED for the number you gave me has dozens of rplacement options. They range from $12.00 std. style LED arrays to $75.00 SMD arrays. Which did you use?

You have mentioned that you connected that charged up Batt, BEFORE you try the Sniffer Coil...is written there Dad Hav!!..I just Copy-Paste your own words...
Never mentioned about putting "A DIODE" there at any point...How could I know?

---------------OOP's should have done that. Ya got me.

Yes RPM's DO MIND!!...You may think Not...I say YES they DO...IS MY DEAL, not yours

---------------It is your deal and if I test something again I will include the RPM's

You test first the LED's on Mod, then on Supply??...Now if you made a stupid mistake like this one...WHY WRITE ABOUT IT?...
To Discredit later on and then be SARCASTIC about the Joule Thief Guy...showing off?

---------------First of all I might not be smart but I ain't stupid. What's the difference whether I chose to try the motor before the power supply. I was excited and anxious to have a great new experience. Don't call me stupid again. The Joule Thief Guy as you put it happens to be one of my best friends and colleagues on the YouTube. Rusty and I kid each other on a regular basis but I should have realized other wouldn't know that. I do apologize to Rusty though if he took it as a slam. Sorry Rusty.

I have read you ever since you walked in, Dad Hav, I may have an accent...but my English is excellent, friend...and learned "In School"...not on the Streets...I can read "between your lines" maybe better than you...

You have kept a very Negative attitude towards my Motors here...since the beginning Bro...I read ALL your Ironies and Sarcasm...but I did not said a WORD..

--------------I think you read me wrong on this Bro. I'm just a guy who isn't afraid to ask questions. I have spent thousands of hours working on experiments brought to the forum by many people. I've learned from them but none of them have come close to getting anyone off the grid. You said this was over unity. I was only looking for something other than a theory to show that you had it. Putting a wrench on a shaft is not a good example. How can you criticize anyone for a test procedure when you present that as your proof of over unity. I'm sorry Bro but that's just how I see it.

I told you before...if you would not see ANY Potential in My Disclosure here, as applying it to your Model Airplanes...

--------------UFO model airplanes are not my life as a matter of fact because of my eyes this will probably be my last year for flying. Airplane motors is what I understand and I consider it to be a stepping point to where ever this can go. And don't forget you said yourself you put them on helicopters and multi rotor R/C craft.

PLEASE BRO!!

I have written it very clear before...about it

So FAR YOU have NOT displayed a SINGLE positive thing about my work...except that "You do not understand it quite well"...(stated on your video, your own voice)

---------------I will state that again. This disclosure is very complicate for me to understand. I don't hide that at all. But I can follow instructions and make a motor that is supposed to convince me that what I don't understand works.

The other "Positive than Negative" comment, was your other mistake about winding it wrong...like to open up a "CRACK OF HOPES in Heavens" from "His Majesty Dad Hav"!!!

-----------------Now you see. Your just hitting bellow the belt now and getting angrier as you write. I don't think I'm better than anyone else. I admitted to winding wrong because it gave me a lead in to explain what I saw to clear things up and making the same mistake. They did you know.

I displayed for you, very clear TWO WAYS DIAGRAMS to test this Motors in Pairs...face to face ...But That ONLY test I requested from you, You could not do it...giving stupid excuses about not being able to build a cheap Chinese made piece of crap...knowing you Bro, you can make a Motor out of a Coke Can...!!

-----------------Ha, ha ha. Always in the middle of me being mad at you, you say something that makes me laugh. I could have made the motor as you asked but I have already bought all the motors from the local Shacks and only have 1 and 1/2 motor left after replacing a broken brush holder. I'll be honest with you. I don't remember making an excuse for that, but it doesn't matter. As we wind down our last few arguments here, you won't have to worry about me any more.

However, all tests rendered by you so far are JUST NEGATIVE ONES..yes,...How could I take that "Approach"??!!


So do whatever, I said it before, I want positive thinking here...NEGATIVE ONES COULD GO TO HE....
AVEN...I DO NOT NEED THEM...

But hey thanks...I will make a video myself of all this testings I did not have the time to do them before, thought it was easier for most...reason why I chose that Motor and not a $100.00 Expensive Ones ...piece of cake bro.

--------------I mean this sincerely UFO. You should have done that from the start with a project as important to everyone as this one. It will be the best thing you could possibly do for the people following you on this forum. It would be very nice and encouraging to see some good tests with proper data recording on the little motor but if things are more dramatic and exciting with a big motor then I'm sure everyone would be happy to see that too. Now it's not my business to do so but if I could, I would hold you to the same thorough test procedures that you recommend for others.

Goodbye also.
John H

GOODBYE


UFO

[Netica]

Hi Ufo,

Great videos, thanks.

With respect to the fiberglass stator, I have been considering how to build one and was considering the distance from the outside diameter of the rotor to the stator wiring. Will the distance of 4.5mm (air gap plus the stator construction material) at any given point around the motor be ok and not to far away.
The rotor diameter I'm thinking of using is 60mm.
I noticed on the video your rotor seems to have a bit of room to move in the fiberglass stator as you put the rotor in the stator, with that play and the thickness of the fiberglass there may be an even greater distance than 4.5mm but it's a bit hard to tell for sure.
And just wondering what diameter your rotor is in the video.

Thanks netica

[Ufopolitics]

Hello thanks

[QUOTE=Rl2003;203379]

Hello again,

But I noticed this nice pictures of a great old DynaMotor...that "THING" is awesome!!...Lovely, beautiful!

The Original Factory Labeled Spec's...of a DynaMotor:
Input: 14.0Volts/6.5 Amps
Output:375V/150 Amps?

Sorry UFO,

I believe that is .150 Amps, Not C>1 but a little over half output to input.
Why I posted those pictures is the different shaped brushes (pointed)
and there is more com. on the output side. Also the similarity of what we are doing here.
I have one that I could dissect. For RD of course. Just to see how it is wound.
Maybe it could be wound with your winding design.

Mark

Hello Mark,

Absolutely those machines could be wound like mines...lot of work though...

They are wound different than mines (as you will find out when taking them apart, before cutting wires off)...take continuity readings on commutators...and you will see One Comm is dedicated for Motor,(a Symmetric Motor) and other Comm for Generator...However they both assist rotation by opposite windings and same rotation sense...no big deal.

There is another guy who also Patented something similar in 1975...same ways though...they use dedicated Commutator or slip rings for One Assembly (Motor or Gen)..Now this one combines true A/C with D/C on other side.


Hmmmm are you sure it is .150A?...clean real good to see if that point was not a "dent"...lol

Now, how about this video posted above...a Westinghouse DynaMotor...from WWII (I love those oldies ones!!)...I see 9.0 amps, but video is not very clear...


Regards


UFO

[IndianaBoys]

Stay the course and never give up!

Ufopolitics,

Thanks for all your continued contributions.

We will have some honest replications and test results documented and videoed soon.

It is very clear from your demonstration videos of replicated motors you have discovered something substantial to contribute to the motor/generator world.

It does not take a rocket scientist to observe that.

Stay healthy my friend and keep up the great work!

Stay the course and never give up!

IndianaBoys