My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Turion]

Pmwuk,
I you don't understand what UFO is talking about on the wiring for the three pole, ask away. We'd all be glad to help.

Dave

[Ufopolitics]

That is definitively a "Beauty"!

Hi UFO,
I would like to rewind this 25 pole beauty, can i take
your 20pole example and group 5 poles together instead of 4 poles?

Thanks for all your work


PS: Can anybody tell me the best way to get rid of this grey coating?

Hello Pesonic!

Beautiful Machine!, looks very strong built, excellent!

Yes, definitively you could go the BOSCH Design type ...and like you said use Five Poles instead of Four...
I can not see it clearly on Pic, but looks like Brushes are seating at 90º, and are four of them, as Four Stators...right?

I highly recommend to take whole assy into a CAD, and set-group all Armature components, marking assigned Coils Poles in Colors...in order to rotate Group observing carefully every next positioning of each Commutator segment...versus their Pairs-Coils interaction at Stator Positioning...this will tune exact your machine as which commutator element to attach each Pair of Coils terminals...
Sometimes just moving one element back or forward at first starting pair of coils connection, makes a whole difference in future Machine behavior and performance...

This set up is very similar to when we are installing a Distributor shaft inside the gears that rotate the Camshaft in a Gas Engine...We only have an specific range to set them, plus we have as reference the Cylinder number One at Top Dead Center in "Compression Stage" NEVER at exhaust...then, We do the "Fine Tuning" at exterior angle movements of Distributor Cap...

In My Machines it is much easier to set the proper timing...since all we have to do is set our Magnetic Armature Poles (of our first starting Pair) at such an specific angle related to Stators, in order that they will instantly develop a huge "Throw Out Force" of Repulsion and(or)Attraction...as close they will be to Stator Magnetic Field passed Dead Center or Magnetic Angle Bisector...depending the Main Rotation Direction we want to achieve we set it backwards or forward related to Bisector.


That is a very Robust built Machine!!...beautiful Commutators...very heavy duty!

Regards and Cheers


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Interesting Patent...

Hi Fabio

look this patent too:http://www.rexresearch.com/szabo/wo9318570.pdf
waterfall

Hello Waterfall,

Thanks for sharing that European Patent!...

Now it is "Asymmetrical" as the Embodiment Description mentions, mainly because of Stator Open end specific design...Therefore the "Asymmetry" is given here based on the Motor Structure, not based on Magnetic Field Interactions...and that is a big difference.

Still I find it innovative as it says to be very efficient...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Pmwuk]

Pmwuk,
I you don't understand what UFO is talking about on the wiring for the three pole, ask away. We'd all be glad to help.

Dave

Hi Dave how do I decide what size wirer to use

[Turion]

For those interested in reworking the Razor scooter motor MY1016,
Lowes has unthreaded rod that is the same diameter as the shaft that goes through that motor, which means you could actually get a long rod, drill holes in the end casing, and combine a motor with generator build by making one long case out of two and put a generator on the end of the shaft. UFO could probably help us figure out EXACTLY how to wire up that generator.

The best part about that motor is the built in mounts on it, so if you bolt two cases down to the same board, they are perfectly aligned, and you don't have to worry so much about your soldering or welding skills to combine the cases.

Dave

[prochiro]

Pmwuk

The answer to your question is on page one, post #10 of this thread. Have you read this thread to date or have you jumped in the middle. We are all glad you are here but you must read this entire thread to understand what you are doing. It is a step by step how to. Then if you do not understand something, ask away good friend.
Dana

[Turion]

Pmwuk,
I actually don't know what size wire you would need. It depends on the three pole motor you have and the current wire size. Page ONE post # 10 refers to the wire needed for the five pole radio shack motor, not a three pole motor we know very little about. Are you using the three pole radio shack motor, which is smaller than the five pole, or do you have a three pole motor from somewhere else? Do you have two of them so you can take the parts from one and put them in another? What size wire is on the motor currently? How BIG is the motor?

Dave

[prochiro]

Brushes

HI ALL:
Turion, Thanks, I did not consider another motor size.

pmazz, What are you thinking of in the way of brushes. Maybe another motor end cap or are you making your own setup? I have been thinking all day about which way to go. The brush setups I have done in the past were large but this is another story.
Dana

[Turion]

Update on the MY1016 scooter motor. It has sixteen slots on the armature, so I wound it with 16 split coils for a total of 32 winds. I used ten winds of #23 for each half coil. I wound around three sections of the armature. Putting it all together tomorrow, I hope

Dave

[Ufopolitics]

Great Turion

Update on the MY1016 scooter motor. It has sixteen slots on the armature, so I wound it with 16 split coils for a total of 32 winds. I used ten winds of #23 for each half coil. I wound around three sections of the armature. Putting it all together tomorrow, I hope

Dave

Hello Dave,

I guess you could not go any higher than 10 Turns per Coil (or "Half Coil", like you said)...So a total of 20 turns per Pair...or "winds"...sounds like kind of too low turns there...

Did You measure total resistance of first pair, before you kept going?
Now is kinda late...

What is the Voltage of that Scooter?


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Hiwater]

UFO--- On the diagram of the 10 pole dual pentagon motor. Are the windings wound with rotation or one set wound ccw (the first set on the bottom) and the top set of windings wound clockwise around the armature.

Also it shows the brushes touching two commutator sections each. Does that mean that each single wind is connected to 2 commutator sections each. Other wise which if singley connected which brush is to be used. looking at the diagram of the m brush is it the left or right side.

I did wind one armature today. Took three tries to get to run . Lots of torgue but it does over heat on me. Had to center the brushes at the center of the magnets. I also had to wind the bottom windings against rotation and the other set with rotation. Then I could get to run.
Reason i asked the question about the brushes is because I think the timing is off. Forgive my ignorance, but im going to keep working on it to make it better. thanks hiwater.

[Turion]

UFO,
I had no choice but to go with ten winds or LESS. That's the most hat would fit

[Ufopolitics]

It's Ok...But...

UFO,
I had no choice but to go with ten winds or LESS. That's the most hat would fit

Is Ok Dave, just try it first with 12 Volts Battery...and check Coils for heating..
Check resistance, pls, at total of ONE Pair.

Regards

Ufopolitics

[codeboundfuture]

Cheap, Homemade Supercapacitors (Normal-Battery Alternative)

Hey everyone,
Been gone a few days and I have missed a lot.

Homemade supercapacitors. A forum thread, I have yet to search the rest of the forum, but I liked what I have learned here.
Ultracapacitors.org - Home made supercaps

cheers,
matt

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Hiwater

UFO--- On the diagram of the 10 pole dual pentagon motor. Are the windings wound with rotation or one set wound ccw (the first set on the bottom) and the top set of windings wound clockwise around the armature.

Also it shows the brushes touching two commutator sections each. Does that mean that each single wind is connected to 2 commutator sections each. Other wise which if singley connected which brush is to be used. looking at the diagram of the m brush is it the left or right side.

I did wind one armature today. Took three tries to get to run . Lots of torgue but it does over heat on me. Had to center the brushes at the center of the magnets. I also had to wind the bottom windings against rotation and the other set with rotation. Then I could get to run.
Reason i asked the question about the brushes is because I think the timing is off. Forgive my ignorance, but im going to keep working on it to make it better. thanks hiwater.

Hello Hiwater,

This Motor is NOT SUPPOSE TO HEAT AT ALL!!
So, definitively something wrong there...I run them with 36 Volts, 6-10 Amps.

In All My Diagrams Coils are "COLOR CODED" in order to define their Magnetic Polarity Projecting towards Stators.

I always use ALL Blues derivatives shades, including Green as NORTH.
All Red Derivatives Shades are SOUTH, Including Yellow, Brown, Orange, etc...

Besides I also Number them by N1-S1 (Pair-1)/(P1)...

Now all Commutator Segments are also Color or Number Coded, matching their corresponding Pair.
Upper Commutator is the wider Diameter at Diagram (Based on looking from Top View...Perspective makes first look bigger)
Smaller Diameter is the lower Commutator.

Also it shows the brushes touching two commutator sections each. Does that mean that each single wind is connected to 2 commutator sections each.

Yes, in this Motor, Commutator Elements are joined by each two. (Two Blues, two red, ...etc) So run your wire through two elements hooks, above and the linear matching element below.

Sorry, but I do not understand your term "Upper and Lower Coils"?...In this Motor as all mines...all coils are set at same longitude related to poles... no upper or lower...all at same height...

Ok, I will try to explain the start ...

Blue-Red is My First Pair of SERIES Connected Coils (All Pairs in My Systems are always connected in Series between them), N1-S1,Ending Terminals (2) are connected to TWO Commutator Elements ABOVE and TWO to LOWER Commutator, marked Blue-Red, On Diagram there is ONLY ONE BRUSH painted...other one right below (not seen), but touching Inner-or lower Commutator RED Segments-Elements. Therefore when Coils are energized they are supposed to project N-S towards Stators, according to Blue-Red on Coils.

After You have Pair N1-S1 Wound , Set and Connected...is much easier to keep going...to N2-S2, All Coils Following First Pair, are wound and Connected IDENTICALLY AS FIRST ONES, Starting with UPPER COMM TWO elements right next to Blue was (Medium Blue)...and ending at next to RED at Lower Comm (S2-Dark Rose color)...(In this Diagram You will be winding "Backwards" from starting point N1-S1.

Let me know if this helped you.

Regards


Ufopolitics