My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Ufopolitics]

Left Design Is Asymmetric

hi again all

the attached picture shows the new and old motor designs side by side i think.
if someone can confirm the illustration is correct? then i can proceed to figure out the exact wiring and switching necessary to have both designs available on a single machine by rotating the magnets and throwing a couple of switches.
in the assymetric diagram on the left i have assumed the outer commutator contacts are the standard upper contacts while the inner contacts are the new secondary set.

my coils are wound in parallel bifilar design at close to 1 ohm per coil.

edit: add picture /edit

Hello Seth,


Yes that is correct, outer is the Upper and smaller the Lower...the whole winding have to be redone according to those connections...on the left diagram...this set is the simplest there is...each coil terminals attaches to one element above other below...they are set exactly at opposed 180 degrees...Coil Vs Element...and Brushes are set like Diagram One related to Stators.


Nice Motor there!!

Good testing


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Thanks Master Blaster, nice Article!

ZPEnergy.com - More on self-powering asymmetric magnetic motors - DoE suppression?

http://www.cheniere.org/correspondence/042208.htm

Hello MasterBlaster,

That is an excellent article from MR Tom Bearden...I highly recommend it!

Thanks for bringing it here!!


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Dear Adilu...

hi UFO
i think your Final Goal is what everyone wants..........."A SPACE SHIP " .......electric one......i know i want one ........
joking

i know that recommended is to have 2 collectors per machine
but i broke apart one (8 poles 220V) so now i scratch my head

is there any way to use just the original one???? is very hard to remove from bigger motors.......

tks
best regards!

adi

Hello Adilu,

There is a "Tool" you will have to make yourself for pulling Commutators out of Big Motors...is like a U Shaped steel plate that fits exactly under the Commutator, and sets the pulling pressure at the center EVENLY...then an Automotive Steering Wheel Pulley Must be used pressing on Motor center shaft (center pulley bolt)...while Clamps-Jaws, hold on that "U" piece you have made...

Is the only way so far...and someone here posted a similar piece they have also made...


Sorry about your broken commutator!



You were pretty close...would say warm...


Ufopolitics

[Turion]

UFO,
I didn't mean to get you all upset by posting those links to research in Aysemmetrical DC motors. I THOUGHT you would be interested to see the approach some others have taken in this area. It was not meant as criticism or an accusation of any kind.

So on to other stuff. I did get my motor rewound. I lost one of my commutator brush springs in the process. (I know it's in my kitchen somewhere) and had to replace it with the spring from an ink pen for now. But at least the motor is up and running. I need to spend a little time tuning it for the highest rpm, and thn get down to full fledged testing.

That may take me a little time. I need to get some space cleared off on my workbench, and right now it is piled high. But never fear. I will get it done. Going down now to work on it. Meanwhile, here is YouTube video of it running for the first time!!!! (Hey, for me, that is a big landmark moment! LOL)

UFO modified motor - YouTube

UFO Motor build tips - YouTube



Dave

[Ufopolitics]

Great Dave!!

UFO,
I didn't mean to get you all upset by posting those links to research in Aysemmetrical DC motors. I THOUGHT you would be interested to see the approach some others have taken in this area. It was not meant as criticism or an accusation of any kind.

Hey Dave,

No, you did not get me upset...I have done many, but many searches related to All kind of Motors...for very long time, my dear friend...Like I wrote before...Asymmetrical Motors were built back to Faraday's first Uni-polar Motor...passing from Tesla...to Ed Gray, Rory Johnson, Kapanadze...etc,etc...

So on to other stuff. I did get my motor rewound. I lost one of my commutator brush springs in the process. (I know it's in my kitchen somewhere) and had to replace it with the spring from an ink pen for now. But at least the motor is up and running. I need to spend a little time tuning it for the highest rpm, and thn get down to full fledged testing.

That may take me a little time. I need to get some space cleared off on my workbench, and right now it is piled high. But never fear. I will get it done. Going down now to work on it. Meanwhile, here is YouTube video of it running for the first time!!!! (Hey, for me, that is a big landmark moment! LOL)

UFO modified motor - YouTube


Dave

Well, I am very glad you got the Motor running...
I heard it and sounds great...a bit of drag on brushes when you turned it off...but that may be the Pen Spring...

Remember to connect Motor Brushes in Parallel, as Generator Brushes in Series...

Good testing


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Turion]

UFO,
Currently, all sets of brushes are wired like in the attached picture in the diagram at the top.

My plan is to rewire them as indicated in the picture captioned
"Proposed Power and Proposed Generator" I think that's what you mean when you say "in series". If not, I am lost. As usual.

Got my bench cleared off and ready to do testing as soon as I have the brushes wired correctly.

Didn't you say to ALWAYS run it with a load on the generator side? What would you recommend as a load? Just a small light bulb? One or two amp draw at most? Or less than an amp draw?

Also, am I to connect the generator output to the power side, or let it run as a generator. I want to make sure I do this right.

Dave

[Ufopolitics]

That is right...

UFO,
Currently, all sets of brushes are wired like in the attached picture in the diagram at the top.

My plan is to rewire them as indicated in the picture captioned
"Proposed Power and Proposed Generator" I think that's what you mean when you say "in series". If not, I am lost. As usual.

Got my bench cleared off and ready to do testing as soon as I have the brushes wired correctly.

Didn't you say to ALWAYS run it with a load on the generator side? What would you recommend as a load? Just a small light bulb? One or two amp draw at most? Or less than an amp draw?

Dave

Hello Dave,

No, you are not lost (this time only... )

The proposed way below is the way to connect, basically Generator Out. However this will add V of Gen1+Gen2 ...while keeping Amps same. If connected in Parallel...it will happen what we normally know...Amps will add and V will remain the same as an "Average" value of both V1 and V2...same thing when connecting batteries...

If you are going to apply a Mechanical Load...as the Dyno...then it will be great to add a CFL to output...depending on your Source Input that you are gonna test Machine with...I normally feed them with 36 V...and set a 120V/23W CFL...What Machine should do...is when you press the mechanical load on...Machine will come down on RPM's...then CFL will brighten steadily (if everything is hooked properly)...and Meters will go Higher at output. And when mechanical load is off...then Machine will increase RPM's...and CFL will Flash...a flickering light.
If you are going to run a test to charge a Cap or Battery...please put two diodes between Machine Output and Cap or Batt...not allowing back flow (return charges) to go back at Machine Output.

That will be all, so far

Good testing!


Ufopolitics

[Turion]

UFO,
Since this is my first run with this, I will test everything using 12 volts only, then move up to 24 volts and then to 36. I don't want to burn it up on the first test run! LOL

Thanks for the info. I will get it all set up today so I can spend all day tomorrow running tests now that I have everything I need. Will set up my camera on a tripod and record the whole thing instead of trying to use my little i-Phone camera.

[Turion]

UFO,
I ran a couple real quick tests and I have bad news and good news.

Standard motor ran at 1768 rpm on 12 volts at .75 amps
Modified motor ran at 4763 rpm on 12 volts at 4.8 amps

So I tried to hook each motor to my power supply, figuring I would lower the voltage on the modified motor to bring the rpms down to match the standard motor, just to see what the voltage and amp draw would be. It wouldn't work because my supply only puts out 3 amps and 12 volts max, and that was not enough to get the modified motor to even run.

BUT... I got to looking at the wire on the modified motor, and I realized I wrapped it with #20, NOT #23 like the original motor was wrapped with. I have a bunch of spools of wire up above my work bench, and apparently I grabbed the end of the wrong one.

So, I can either rewrap an armature with #23, which will probably be closer to 25 wraps per half coil or 50 wraps per coil, or I can continue on with the armature I have, knowing I will have to get the voltage supply up to lower the amp draw. Oh, haven't measured resistance in a single coil yet either.

I am impressed with the rpm's on this thing! Can't wait to measure torque.

Dave

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Turion

UFO,
I ran a couple real quick tests and I have bad news and good news.

Standard motor ran at 1768 rpm on 12 volts at .75 amps
Modified motor ran at 4763 rpm on 12 volts at 4.8 amps

So I tried to hook each motor to my power supply, figuring I would lower the voltage on the modified motor to bring the rpms down to match the standard motor, just to see what the voltage and amp draw would be. It wouldn't work because my supply only puts out 3 amps and 12 volts max, and that was not enough to get the modified motor to even run.

BUT... I got to looking at the wire on the modified motor, and I realized I wrapped it with #20, NOT #23 like the original motor was wrapped with. I have a bunch of spools of wire up above my work bench, and apparently I grabbed the end of the wrong one.

So, I can either rewrap an armature with #23, which will probably be closer to 25 wraps per half coil or 50 wraps per coil, or I can continue on with the armature I have, knowing I will have to get the voltage supply up to lower the amp draw. Oh, haven't measured resistance in a single coil yet either.

I am impressed with the rpm's on this thing! Can't wait to measure torque.

Dave

Hello Turion,


Hahahaha...You just couldn't wait to play with toy before Christmas time... couldn't you Uh?...

Ok, let's start from the beginning right?

I ran a couple real quick tests and I have bad news and good news.

Standard motor ran at 1768 rpm on 12 volts at .75 amps
Modified motor ran at 4763 rpm on 12 volts at 4.8 amps

Ok, if you could tell what kind of source you used ...that will help ...a Battery I suppose...Lead Acid...Do you have LiPo's?...straight feed, linear..So you hooked the Amp Meter in series between Motor and One Battery terminal...on both...

Will you make a simple test just on Modified Motor?

Set a Diode between Pos Batt terminal and Pos to Motor...and read Amps before and after diode ...meaning, you will be measuring within the Motor circuit...and before Motor circuit (just Battery)...to prevent negative feedback...see if there is a difference in Amps readings.

So I tried to hook each motor to my power supply, figuring I would lower the voltage on the modified motor to bring the rpms down to match the standard motor, just to see what the voltage and amp draw would be. It wouldn't work because my supply only puts out 3 amps and 12 volts max, and that was not enough to get the modified motor to even run.

Did you try to run also the Non Modified Motor...and it ran?
Did you had a Load hooked to Mod, at time of feeding from power source?

If you had access to Brushes connections...you could try jumping just One side of brushes...upper and lower to get excited just one side of the Quadrant...and see if Power Supply will kick it in...NOW that is just to be tested with your 3 Amps Power Supply...

BUT... I got to looking at the wire on the modified motor, and I realized I wrapped it with #20, NOT #23 like the original motor was wrapped with. I have a bunch of spools of wire up above my work bench, and apparently I grabbed the end of the wrong one.

So, I can either rewrap an armature with #23, which will probably be closer to 25 wraps per half coil or 50 wraps per coil, or I can continue on with the armature I have, knowing I will have to get the voltage supply up to lower the amp draw. Oh, haven't measured resistance in a single coil yet either.

I am impressed with the rpm's on this thing! Can't wait to measure torque.

Dave

Great, NO, please leave it at 20 Gauge!!...that's better ...I know testing will not be "equally fair" with non modified...but make some nice measurements first...

Yes please measure resistance per Pair of Coils (I like to call it Pairs of Coils...and Not "Half Coils"...not to create confusions here...those are the terms we have been using so far...let's not change them please)

You should have very low resistance...finally never mentioned how many turns per Coils in the Pair you had!.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Turion]

I am using an 18 amp hour lead-acid battery.

I read amps before and after the diode. Basically the same. A couple 10ths difference after the diode.

I did try running the non modified motor from the power supply and it ran at 12 volts on .75 amps.

I did not have any load hooked to either motor at any time.

20 turns per coil pair

Couldn't read the ohms on a coil. WIll try to do that tomorrow if I can get a probe in there. May have to take it apart to do that, and didn't want to start taking things apart toninght. Might lose another brush spring! LOL

Oh, one other thing...I have not "tuned" or adjusted this in ANY way. That could make a big difference in performance I know. All I did was fire it up.

Dave

[Ufopolitics]

Great!

I am using an 18 amp hour lead-acid battery.

I read amps before and after the diode. Basically the same. A couple 10ths difference after the diode.

I did try running the non modified motor from the power supply and it ran at 12 volts on .75 amps.

I did not have any load hooked to either motor at any time.

20 turns per coil pair

Couldn't read the ohms on a coil. WIll try to do that tomorrow if I can get a probe in there. May have to take it apart to do that, and didn't want to start taking things apart toninght. Might lose another brush spring! LOL

Oh, one other thing...I have not "tuned" or adjusted this in ANY way. That could make a big difference in performance I know. All I did was fire it up.

Dave

Hello Dave,

Oh, do not worry about measurement per single coil...just off the Input brushes terminals that are in Parallel...will read R1 (First Pair)+R2(Second Pair)/2...will give you an approximated Resistance ...Then measure off Generator Output...(in series) will be R1+R2...Do both measurements without moving shaft, but once you've got continuity checked on both terminals.

Tuning it will be to keep brushes as straight as possible between Input-Output, referring to linear set across Motor...parallel to axis. That will be like a Timing set center guide...If Input Firing Pairs dead center line are perpendicular to stators...like in the Diagram I made...then they should be fine...

Regards


Ufopolitics

[ampsvolts]

Dual armature machine

UFO Guru,
In response to BobFrench you indicated that a unit capable of 300watts would consist of two armatures..-
The Motor Armature being a three single coil or a Star Of David with heavy torque.
The Generator Armature is to be long and have as many poles as possible with many short but long (elongated?) Pairs of Coils as we could fit,

You mentioned "dual armature would be wrapped around a Common Stator"
- Would you please elaborate on this (maybe an out-runner?)

I am currently putting together your N-Channel circuit
- Would this circuit run the dual armature machine ?

Kind Regards
AV

[Ufopolitics]

Dual Armature

UFO Guru,
In response to BobFrench you indicated that a unit capable of 300watts would consist of two armatures..-
The Motor Armature being a three single coil or a Star Of David with heavy torque.
The Generator Armature is to be long and have as many poles as possible with many short but long (elongated?) Pairs of Coils as we could fit,

You mentioned "dual armature would be wrapped around a Common Stator"
- Would you please elaborate on this (maybe an out-runner?)

I am currently putting together your N-Channel circuit
- Would this circuit run the dual armature machine ?

Kind Regards
AV

Hello AV,

The Elongated wires meaning the ones running across the armature length...the wires that cut the magnetic field perpendicular to the lines of flux...

I meant a single stator to wrap both armatures...no out-runner.
It is NOT just a Single Stator (light wiring) like I have displayed here...but a robust assembly that will also incorporate Secondaries at dedicated sections to influence (induce) at generator side.

The 555 N-Channel will run any motor, as long as your Higher Voltage side...your switching Mosfet's, have the spec's (Capacity) to excite, pulse and handle the Machine working currents...

Everything must be accurately balanced...from the oscillator to pulse the Stator to the Pair of Coils at Motor Armatures...
The Generator Side will be completely assisting our rotation...IF Hooked opposite to Motor Input-Outputs...there is a Diagram for face to face connections.

Capacitors and Diodes must be part of this structure, basically at Motor-Stator side.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Important Issue Related To Original and Modified Machines

Hello to all,

This post is related to our Tests and comparisons between a Modified Machine and the Original one.

First I did it wrong with the Radio Shack Motor...It was my fault to orient the wire awg and the # of turns...I made it to show the working model, but not to be compared to output performance against the Original.

If We look at original R/S Motor is wound with like 33-36 wire...and the Symmetrical windings comprehend also Two Poles of Armature like my design...Therefore first We must have used the same exact awg as the R/S Motor.
The Symmetrical System is wound in series, so we need to cut on original , just one Coil to be measured in resistance...and then count the number of turns. Now this Motor originally has Two brushes therefore divides the 360 in two Halves...or at least Two sets of single Coils.

So our "Fairly Made" Modified Machine MUST BE wound taking in consideration this original spec's. Meaning, each Pair of Coils of Mod Machine, should be equal -[In Turns, awg and total resistance]- to Two Pair of Coils from the Symmetrical Motor. Then We could make as many testing related to amperage consumption, torque, voltage, etc,etc...

Now in the case of Four Brush System (like Turion's Motor) it must be done EXACTLY the same ways...except that a Four Brush cuts the Quadrant exactly at Four Quarters, so all coils "involved" at each quadrant must be cut off from the series connections to be measured, counted turns and awg spec's before proceeding to wind the modified one.
Now in this case the Modified Machine is going to be Firing Half of Circumference Coils only, so, in order to make a fair Distribution...The Two Pairs at Input (Four Coils Total) must be equal in Resistance and # of turns to Original Motor, measured at One quarter of Coils times Four (1/4X4).

If We do not do this...Machines will never be reacting the same when feeding it with same Sources...the read outs will be very different like we have tested so far...

I ran a test last night on R/S Mod and Original, from same set of charged batteries...Original goes at very low RPM's(almost not noticeable the spinning noise)...and of course, huge resistance at Coils because of very fine wire...While mine was Humming, flying at two and a half times the speed...and OF COURSE...consuming way more Amps and Volts...

Not a Fair Comparison at all.

Resuming: Each Machine, Original and Modified, We must try to have very similar circuitry parameters, from input terminals to the internal core of both machines...I know they are different configurations, however, we could base it -like I did above- at per momentum of Input- when we feed them from same source, and expect to have pretty fair readings.

Hope You All understand my point here.


Regards


Ufopolitics