My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Ufopolitics]

OK No Jokes this time...LOL

Hello to All,


A New Method to replace the Old Brush Systems...and mount our contacts in Roller Bearings...

Bearings chosen for this design, must heave Metal Seals, NOT Plastic!

All we need to do is build a simple mounting bracket with pressure springs like shown on Picture below:

[IMG][/IMG]

And press fit a copper ring at outer diameter, this will be our replaceable contact part, just like a brush.
What I recommend is to search first for a copper tubing of specific diameter, then locate a bearing that will fit by pressing it tight. Now, the Thicker this ring, the longer its life span.

The advantages are given by better rotating mechanisms that will eliminate the drag and friction caused by previous method. As avoiding fast deterioration or accumulation of carbon deposits at commutator elements and gaps.

[IMG][/IMG]

Many more improvements could be done here...as oil sponges rubbing opposite side of bearing, a conductive grease of course, inside housings...

This system if well built could handle very high speeds, much faster than linear pressure carbon brushes.
The Outer Ring (Consumable) could also be made out of Carbon Fiber, but processed with a very high temperature/hard solid epoxy resin.

[IMG][/IMG]

This System will also provide a smooth and precise adjustment of timing while Machine is rotating, even at very fast speeds.

I will be rendering a video further on, about this simple but enhancing tech.

Regards to all


Ufopolitics

[shylo]

Hi UFO, Excellent work
I,m not sure I understand , does this new Roller bearing contact, have no wires? Is the connection just through the metal connections of the design itself?
Just not sure how you can ,physically connect the coils to the segments of the commutor??
I think this would work beautifully for shorting coils(if it works the way I think it does)
If nothing else ,it's given me a new avenue to try out!
Keep up the great work your postes are invaluable
shylo

[Ufopolitics]

That's great Dave!!

UFO,
I replaced the "red things" with fiber board this morning, and drilled out my armatures so I could put a larger diameter shaft to carry the weight of all those armature segments and not "sag" inside the housing. It should be a lot more sturdy. Since I had it apart to replace the fiber board and haven't started winding yet, I figured I might as well get that done, instead of later wishing I had.

My big motor came in this morning!!!!! But I need to look back and see the specs you posted for the correct size wire to wind it with and get that ordered in the next day or two. I need to finish this generator and test the motor I already have before I start on a new one.

Dave

Hello Dave,

Yes a board will look much better than the "red things"...
If you have a Copper sheet you could cut strips and set them in fiber board, (Drilling Two small holes and running strip and bending it leaving like a tab top and bottom to be bent on wires.) so you could attach wires from Coils and to Commutator elements. The idea is to be able to connect them in different modes to see which one will render better output results...

Great news you got the Motor!

Those Motors are wound with Bifilar 16 awg, one green and one gold strand...If we make them Bifilar at the Diagram I posted (P-28)...They will be really STRONG!!
And whenever you take them apart...will notice, there is still a lot of room there.
What is a really pain...is to take off the wires, and the hedges...they are soaked in that great resin...I have all my fingers cut...because is just like glass...and sticks to wire...and everywhere.

Tomorrow I am applying Heat to it...to soften resin...but with a heavy duty Heat Gun...No Torch...that is too much...and I do not want to ruin the resin...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hi Shylo

Hi UFO, Excellent work
I,m not sure I understand , does this new Roller bearing contact, have no wires? Is the connection just through the metal connections of the design itself?

Yes it has wires, I have not finished the whole 3D Model yet...wires attach to the base...it is a Metal Bearing, it will conduct perfect through stainless steel...

Just not sure how you can ,physically connect the coils to the segments of the commutor??

This just replaces Carbon Brushes Shylo, have nothing to do with commutator and coils...You connect them the same way...

I think this would work beautifully for shorting coils(if it works the way I think it does)
If nothing else ,it's given me a new avenue to try out!
Keep up the great work your postes are invaluable
shylo

Great!...I am glad you like it!


Regards


Ufopolitics

[shylo]

3D model

Looking forward to its' completion
I also am confused as to adding the generator head to your modification??
My understanding was that your modification was a motor and a generator??Sorry I'm not the sharpest knife in the draw
shylo

[Ufopolitics]

Hello

Looking forward to its' completion
I also am confused as to adding the generator head to your modification??
My understanding was that your modification was a motor and a generator??Sorry I'm not the sharpest knife in the draw
shylo

My Asymmetric Motor is also a Generator, like you have seen in other replications...but in order to Generate enough to satisfy external loads, We need Dual Machines or if possible Dual Armatures windings wound in same dedicated Core...Now that is speaking of just Asymmetrical Machines...

Now what I am going to do as other members here is a "Symbiosis"...of both "Organisms" ...a Symmetric Generator Head...rotated by an Asymmetric Prime Mover (Motor)...Now the Extra Power generated by Motor could be used to keep Generator Stators excited...or to run a cooling Fan for the system...or to charge the Batteries...just as an example...
But we will get the "Mains Out" from Brushless Symmetric Generator Head...

Regards


Ufopolitics

[prochiro]

Confused

Looking forward to its' completion
I also am confused as to adding the generator head to your modification??
My understanding was that your modification was a motor and a generator??Sorry I'm not the sharpest knife in the draw
shylo

All motors are a motor and a generator to ether a good extend(UFO) or a bad extent. But what is good enough for some to charge a lot of batteries, may not be what others are thinking about. Some think of an area of the house which has equipment to produce all the electrical needs on the spot. This is not at all the same as in some areas of the world who would love to have just a few lights at night. Now as you can see, if you want the have a battery always ready, you do not need a gen-head. A dedicated gen-head produces constant high volts and amps as you know. All we have to do is get enough power to run one prime mover and the rest will be history. What are your goals as far as power is concerned?
Dana

[Ufopolitics]

Another Option

I've got it! Thanks. That is what I THOUGHT, but I wanted to be sure before I wasted a bunch more wire.

Dave

Hello Dave,

I add another option here without major modification to your windings...just at the terminals of both Groups of Sub Coils...to install them in Parallel (Just to take their terminals to commutator element, this option will increase Amperage as Voltage. As it will not have that much resistance.

[IMG][/IMG]

On Left is THE SAME diagram as last night I posted...Right side is the New Add: SERIES-PARALLEL-1

That is why the Board...So taking each Group of Sub Coils to Board ...there you could connect them as switch them.

Number them on board, as also making a nice diagram will help you.

This Machine, if wound-connected well...just by one hand spinning it...should get between 3 to 10 Volts easy...fast hand spin...much more...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[DadHav]

Hello to All,


A New Method to replace the Old Brush Systems...and mount our contacts in Roller Bearings...

Bearings chosen for this design, must heave Metal Seals, NOT Plastic!

All we need to do is build a simple mounting bracket with pressure springs like shown on Picture below:

[IMG][/IMG]

And press fit a copper ring at outer diameter, this will be our replaceable contact part, just like a brush.
What I recommend is to search first for a copper tubing of specific diameter, then locate a bearing that will fit by pressing it tight. Now, the Thicker this ring, the longer its life span.

The advantages are given by better rotating mechanisms that will eliminate the drag and friction caused by previous method. As avoiding fast deterioration or accumulation of carbon deposits at commutator elements and gaps.

[IMG][/IMG]

Many more improvements could be done here...as oil sponges rubbing opposite side of bearing, a conductive grease of course, inside housings...

This system if well built could handle very high speeds, much faster than linear pressure carbon brushes.
The Outer Ring (Consumable) could also be made out of Carbon Fiber, but processed with a very high temperature/hard solid epoxy resin.

[IMG][/IMG]

This System will also provide a smooth and precise adjustment of timing while Machine is rotating, even at very fast speeds.

I will be rendering a video further on, about this simple but enhancing tech.

Regards to all


Ufopolitics

Looking forward to more information. It looks to me like you plan on passing current through the moving balls and race of the bearing. Wouldn't the slightest ark ruin the operation of the bearing? Not to mention the poor contact scenario with the contact area you have on the bearings where they touch the race.
I must not understand.

John Hav

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Dad Hav

Looking forward to more information. It looks to me like you plan on passing current through the moving balls and race of the bearing. Wouldn't the slightest ark ruin the operation of the bearing? Not to mention the poor contact scenario with the contact area you have on the bearings where they touch the race.
I must not understand.

John Hav

Hello Dad Hav,

I wrote right at beginning of the post that bearings MUST have Metal Seal, I do not know if you are familiar with Metal sealed bearings...since mostly you play with the Miniature World ...

Bearings chosen for this design, must heave Metal Seals, NOT Plastic!

The Metal Sealed Bearings are complete CLOSED contact from outer channel ring to inner channel ring...
That is why I wrote "No Plastic" Sealed Bearings...
Besides electrical charges will travel outside the bearing embodiment...

So...stop seeing ball bearings arcing purple plasma inside my design...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[prochiro]

Hello Dave,

I add another option here without major modification to your windings...just at the terminals of both Groups of Sub Coils...to install them in Parallel (Just to take their terminals to commutator element, this option will increase Amperage as Voltage. As it will not have that much resistance.

Regards


Ufopolitics

Now that is looking like a generator now. As I am also winding one, I will also use this method. Thanks UFO.
Dana

[Ufopolitics]

Sorry

Only had time to wind two sets, so will unwind and rewind with new winding pattern. Should have it done tomorrow.

Dave

Dave,

Sorry about it...I was calculating/thinking and testing... and this is a much stronger choice...even for a Motor Generator...
Could you run them in order to switch between the two modes and test?
I believe all you will need is a solely wire on each Pair running between the two boards...for North Hook or jump to series...

If not is ok...this one would be stronger as Amps relates.

Regards


Ufopolitics

[DadHav]

Hello Dad Hav,

I wrote right at beginning of the post that bearings MUST have Metal Seal, I do not know if you are familiar with Metal sealed bearings...since mostly you play with the Miniature World ...



The Metal Sealed Bearings are complete CLOSED contact from outer channel ring to inner channel ring...
That is why I wrote "No Plastic" Sealed Bearings...
Besides electrical charges will travel outside the bearing embodiment...

So...stop seeing ball bearings arcing purple plasma inside my design...


Regards


Ufopolitics

Hello UFO. I know I'm only here to be made fun of, but let me ask you a question. First once a brush seats itself nicely against the commutator you can calculate the surface area with which it can pass current through to the coils of the armature right? A good surface contact area can easily pass more current. How much surface area will you have with the two arked surfaces of the bearing and commutator touching each other? Doesn't a brush cover the space between to com segments before moving on? It bridges the two pieces and in doing so reduces the arc. Rolling over the space between segments with a full open connection may not have good results. Metal seal, or not your current path is from the inner race of the bearing through the path of least resistance. The shield which likely is very thin forms another sliding / moving contact for the path. so it may not stop current from flowing through the balls unless they are ceramic. Of course this is only the opinion of a person from the miniature world, but before I retired I had nearly 50 years as a Journeyman tool & die maker and in the last 20 years have designed and built tons of down stream automation for material handling. I've had a good share of designing with bearings and other equipment of all sizes. I thought all of us where here to contribute how ever we could. I don't think this will work well for the reasons stated, but I could be wrong. Who will be the first one to try this?
J
PS. Even my tiniest bearing are a metal seal but I prefer the non contact type because they are almost frictionless.
SFR168C-YUU NB2

[Ufopolitics]

Dad Hav

Dad Hav,

Hello UFO. I know I'm only here to be made fun of...

Oh, Please Dad Hav...don't You play "The Victim Role" here...I know that "Game" very well Sir!

Like I said before on the presentation of my Brush Bearing Concept, this idea was meant for improvement.

But I understand "every time" an idea is presented, automatically the "Parties" that are on the "Conservative Side" related to Motors and Generators or on the whole Picture....JUMP...Jump to Criticize...and that happens so often...since the beginning of My First Thread here...that I am "Starting to get used to"...

I particularly LOVE, CONSTRUCTIVE CRITICISM...BUT...If You bring a Criticism...that BE A NEGATIVE ONE...Bring along the SOLUTION!!! ..that would be very nice if everyone would act in their life like that every time...don't you think?...

Of course We all be a better "Race"...and have a better World.

There are REASONS why I designed this set up of brush type:

1-My Machines develop three or Four or MORE Speed than ANY Regular Original Symmetric of the same capacity.

That is an "Advantage"...However, since we are dealing here with "Original Symmetric Machines" conversions, that NEVER dream of reaching such High Speed and Torque in the same Fashion and Intensity"...It could lead into accidents like Netica had, when an Element flew and hit His Eye...it could have been worst...thanks God He is fine by now...
And there were NO SIGNS of heating in those elements (based on the super High Definition Picture Netica provided.)
And according to the way Netica BUILDS You ALL have seen...So WELL, it is very ODD that a bad or loose construct could have happened there.
That it could have been a Bad factory built commutator?...could be that IT Was "Not Rated for UFO's Speeds"...
...And Netica was NOT Accelerating "Full Blast" as He said...


2- My Machines require DOUBLE the amount of Brushes of a Symmetrical Type

That is understood by all here...So, My concept is FOR MY MACHINES...However, IF ANYONE wants to apply it to their other builds...Be Very Welcome...it is FOR FREE.


You spoke of all kind of possibilities of "Failure" of My Design...But none to "fix" the criticized issues...
You first mentioned arc in the ball bearings, bad electrical transmission...and now more "bad things"...not good area of contact...etc,etc...

Dad Hav, You ARE NOT a Full Time Replicator of My Design here!!...And as a matter of fact all you did was ONE cheap Radio Shack Model,...and all it was to criticize it in your video back and forth...
I have asked You to make other tests with Two Machines...A LONG TIME BACK...but you had "excuses" of being busy...But obviously "Not Busy" to criticize Uh?!
IF You would be an active Member replicating My work here...I would be understanding "Your Concerns"...BUT YOU ARE NOT!

All The Expertise You could bring along here an tell Us about ...Doesn't Do ANY Good...IF You are not HELPING building/replicating ABSOLUTELY NADA for this Thread.



Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

A Solution For A Problem...

Hello All,

Like I mentioned before, my concept of Brush Bearing was not fully developed...I wrote "It could use some Improvement" As I was not satisfied either with it...

I basically displayed that design, for anyone who want to try it out...in their builds.

We are all grown up here and could decide for yourselves if want or not to build something...based on a Concept.

As I have been "The Spot" of many "Critics" here on this Forum...for a long time by now...I understand that every time there is a new idea, or concept...This "Conservative Tea Party"...Jumps all over..."They just can not "control" their fingers...as their Impulsive Criticism...

But I explained before why I wanted to improve the Ancient and Obsolete Brush Systems on My Machines.

1- My Machines develops serious Speed and Torque that NOW are equally and Directly Proportional...NOT as Symmetric Systems. This is an "Advantage"...but it could bring trouble IF we are dealing with the short circuit slow and torque-less machines to convert them into my designs...

2- My Machines requires Double the amount of Brushes one of the Original Old Dinosaurs do...That is A Main reason I want this design...to void that much friction ...

So, here is Another Improvement this concept could be Enhanced with...since, somehow, I agree to a certain extent with the "Tea Party Critics"...

[IMG][/IMG]


What I have incorporated is a Brush, but riding on the Outer Copper Ring of Bearing, just like a Continuous Slip Ring we see on Brush Generators.
The Bearing slides on Commutator elements tough ride , being shock absorbed by the action of the push spring on Arm...this way copper ring acts like a middle element between Commutator and Brush.

The Angles of Pressure from Brush to Commutator are no longer at 90 degrees creating great friction, drag and heat.


[IMG][/IMG]


Again, People... this is "just a Concept"...to be developed further more...


Regards


Ufopolitics