My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[prochiro]

Alive

Hello ufo and everyone,

I got home late last night and went right out to the workshop, ended up spending 4 hours adding washers, removing washers, shaving here, adjusting there.

So I first tried with 12 v, and all I got was some serious sparks at comm. Took it all apart, cleaned the comms, put it back together. I got much less sparks, but no rotation.

Tried 24 volts, some sparking at commas, no rotation of rotor. getting bummed out and burnt out, beginning to question myself, and should I call my Guru. Then my diode melted off my switch. FCC

OK, Should I try 36 volts, WT, yes. So, I hook up 36 volts rethink input, reverse input, neon light sounds like it is gonna burst,...and ... and...WE GET ROTATION, IT'S ALIIIIVVVVVE, but barley.

I was so excited I shut it off, and now I have to calm down and relax.

UFO I will make a vid tonight and post tonight or tomorrow.

Hello Alive
Sooooo glade you have rotation but reading your post, I get the sense that something is wrong. The humming at lower voltage may indicate stiffness in the rotor. Does it turn real easy. If not put a drill or a lathe on the shaft to loosen it up some, without power on maybe five minutes. Sound like it wants to run but cant. In any case, wait for UFO and give him all ohms and wire size and such if he does not have them already. Even the larger vacuum motors will run fair on 12 volts. Well get this creature running on 12 and staying cool. Great news and know that we all get frustrated and sometimes often. It is a part of discovery and makes those moments of triumphs so sweet.
Dana

[machinealive]

ok, I went out and shot a very short vid, just to show it working.

There are 2 neons, the one on the breadboard is across stator diodes, the other neon is across output.

I was using my oscillator with only a .1 uf cap, so tomorrow I will hook up one of my good oscillators with a .47 uf and .1 uf.

Check out the sparking at the comm, that must be addressed, funny how we were just talking about improvments on the comms,

here it is, remember this was quick and dirty for my friends and my guru

5 Pole, dual pentagon, scratch motor.3gp - YouTube

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Machine Alive

Hey Machine!!

Congratulations!...Well,... after all you finally got it running...
I was reading your "Machine Symptoms"...in your previous post, and it seems there is a Timing issue, before seeing video I thought you may have too big of an Air Gap...but no, you are fine for the size of that machine...and like Prochiro wrote about rolling friction, I saw your previous video...and it shows it is fine also.

Now, after seeing video, I noticed you have to move it a bit to get it running...that is out of timing, However, your Stators are not "embracing" the Armature like they should, then you can not relay on a repulsion attraction there, but only on REPULSION FORCES.

Ok, You have the Dual Pentagon Five Poles, So let's say on P-1 (N1-S1), that is where Motor Brush is energizing center of Commutator.
Now, to get a Much Stronger rotation, you have to move Brushes Counter Clock Wise (CCW) according to Diagram. In order that Pole P-1/S1center is as CLOSE as possible to South Stator dead center (bisector) BUT, NOT PASSING IT THE OTHER SIDE (NOT Passing 12:00 O'Clock towards 11:00 AM...

[IMG][/IMG]

I was making Diagram for a better View of my explanation...

Ok, all is there now.
The critical point here, is that you look EXACTLY when Brush is STARTING to touch Commutator element that triggers P-1, then look at positioning of your P1 Line (Magenta on Diag) related to Stators Dead Center Line (green line).

So the "Game" here to obtain greater Forces...is to get Magnetic Interactions AS MUCH CLOSER AS POSSIBLE to Stators Dead Center Line from the very first "tip" of commutator element starts touching Motor Brushes.


NOTE FOR ALL:In this adjustment of the Dual Penta , we are just using Repulsion Forces from both Coils in the Pair...I have done setting this way, just because Machine Alive have too spread apart stators, so for him adjusting based on Repulse-Attract will not work

However, this Motor as other designs contain both Repulsion and Attraction forces adjustments, SO, IF your Stators Gap is pretty close You could play timing forward or CW.


I hope this helped you to set it much better...Machine Alive...You have done an excellent work!!


Regards and


Ufopolitics

[IndianaBoys]

Here is some inspiration from a user named TimberJack over at the International Alternative Energy Center forum.

He has some great skills and creativity.

Pulse Motor With Commutator:
International Alternative Energy Center - Pulse Motor with Commutator... - Powered by ForumCo.com - The Forum Company

Another thread showing some more of his builds, may give some more ideas for constructing a Ufopolitics design out of wood:
International Alternative Energy Center - From my first PM till round about now... - Powered by ForumCo.com - The Forum Company

They are having the PULSE MOTOR BUILD OFF 2
International Alternative Energy Center - PULSE MOTOR BUILD OFF 2 - Powered by ForumCo.com - The Forum Company

The same could be done with a Ufopolitics Technology Design Build Off

IndianaBoys

[Anoop]

Hi UFO,
Thanks for your reply. Especially for your opinion that a combination of Dynamic and Solid State will give far more total energy output than just Solid State alone, for a given input.
Anoop

[machinealive]

timing is everything

We've all heard that one before, very true for UFO motors. Motor is working a lot better now that brushes have been adjusted, thanks UFO.

When it wouldn't spin at first, I was sure the stator coils were too straight and wide, I almost gave up on the stator.
I'm cutting out my assymetrical UFO stator today, which was the plan originally. I know it will work much better.

So now we know aluminum will work as a UFO rotor.

@Indianaboys
That guy said he took that incredible build apart because he ran out of room, what a shame, he must have many, even nicer builds. You find the neatest links. The plasma arcing video was also really interesting and I think very applicable here. Thanks

[Zardox]

Who was it that was building a motor using a plastic rotor? I was curious how that worked out.

[Ufopolitics]

Good Machine!

We've all heard that one before, very true for UFO motors. Motor is working a lot better now that brushes have been adjusted, thanks UFO.

When it wouldn't spin at first, I was sure the stator coils were too straight and wide, I almost gave up on the stator.
I'm cutting out my assymetrical UFO stator today, which was the plan originally. I know it will work much better.

So now we know aluminum will work as a UFO rotor.

@Indianaboys
That guy said he took that incredible build apart because he ran out of room, what a shame, he must have many, even nicer builds. You find the neatest links. The plasma arcing video was also really interesting and I think very applicable here. Thanks

Hello MachineAlive,

Great!, I am glad it is working better now that you have adjusted brushes...

But, yes You have proved "beyond doubt" that ALUMINUM DOES WORK!...and that my Friend is a Big Step Forward here...That will "vanish" all the "Fairy Tales" of Aluminum having Eddy Currents, and not being Ferrous bla,bla,bla...I love when things like this come out of the "Darkness" to shine bright out, clearing all doubts...

Aluminum is a Paramagnetic Material, meaning, it WILL get magnetized/polarized when facing a magnetic field, BUT, the best advantages that attribute has for rotors of "My Kind"...is that Aluminum has NO MAGNETIC MEMORY AT ALL...Zero...and for constant NATURALLY, (Not Forced) swapping magnetic poles by Radiant Energy is a great advantage. Plus we have a very Light Rotor.

Now related to the Asymmetrical Stator, it is much better just because it wraps Rotor completely, leaving no spaced apart magnetic field patterns...which rest power and robustness to the whole machine...alive?...lol

Another thing I wanted to say is related to your Neons...
If You keep accelerating you will end up blowing them...unless they are rated 240 Volts...You could use CFL's better...
Now one test you could do once having CFL's at output...is to load mechanically rotor...by adding some friction there, it could be just a couple of wood blocks pressing against shaft...then you will see that CFL's will stop blinking and light up steadily and brightly...

So far so good Machinealive!...Will love to see another video running after timing adjusted...love to hear them running...roaring...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Pmazz was working on Plastic Rotor...

Who was it that was building a motor using a plastic rotor? I was curious how that worked out.

Hello Zardox,


Pmazz was the member making the Plastic-Rotor-Stator...
I believe he was working on the commutator system for it...and had it almost finished and mounted already...

So I think we should see His great work anytime soon...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[machinealive]

One thing I would say, to anyone going to build thier own, the brush and commutator setup is the most time consuming, and patience testing part of this build, I wish i had of put more pre-work into that aspect, i used covers to electrical boxes, which give about 30 degrees of rotation at brushes, for adjustment plate.

Thanks again ufo, And I am so happy aluminum works, I know it will be an excellent material for our 3 pole build.

[Ufopolitics]

Polarized Reed Switch Construction

Hello to All,

Here is shown a simple Polarized Reed Switch Construction.

It directly applies to several uses in Asymmetrical Machines, whether Motors, Generators or Assemblies of Both.
It has the advantage to be able to switch (open/close) Coils JUST in the presence of a specific magnetic field polarity. Without the need of Commutation Brushes or Continuous Slip Rings.

[IMG][/IMG]

With this "Remote" Switching Technology we could turn a Brush-less Stator Rotor Pole from a Generator only at certain times/angles of the Quadrant, while turning other Poles as they get within the range of the field. This will reduce the magnetic drag/friction from that Rotor Pole as it passes through other fields where Induction will not take place, but Motor assisting, turning on that pole in order that will create a repulsion-attraction by interacting with dedicated Static Motor Fields.

Most of the Reed Switches available are Non Polarized...and when rated over 10 Amps they could be very expensive.

I am showing a simple construct that could handle High Amperage based on Platinum Points from Old Vehicles Ignition Points, as also using the Radio Shack Neo's of 3/16 In.

Now, the material of choice for the Moving plate carrying magnet, must be very well selected, it must have great spring capabilities as also capable of standing high temperatures without loosing its properties.
The whole assembly must be sealed inside a plastic container to avoid dirt or other particles to get in the contact points.

However, make sure you "color code" according to polarity your Magnets and the Casing...

The Gap MUST BE ADJUSTED for magnetic sensibility-range-response BEFORE securing contact plates or sealing unit

Dampening high temperature plastics could be used to deaden sound as to assist spring action, in the upper connecting end.

[IMG][/IMG]

It is intended basically for Middle to large Motor-Generators Assemblies in one dedicated Unit/Common Shaft, where we could have room to create our switching "commutation belt". Even though the switch is of small size...

By having multiple Poles Rotors with several Pairs/Groups of Coils within Armature Assembly, surrounded by Static Generating and Motoring Fields, this switches will interact with our Motor Pulsing Fields as they will be Inducing Currents in the Generation Fields.


For the Conservative Tea Party of Critics/Skeptics AS ALSO for Patent Trolls :

This is NOT my Invention, the Patents starts from the 1967's Up!!..

PERMANENTLY POLARIZED REED SWITCH

So GO and Criticize the Inventors...NOT Me...Please!...
And Patent Trolls...do not waste your time running to Patent Office...

Further On, next week I will be showing some examples of its uses...as why we need Single Poles and Bipolar switches...


Regards to All


Ufopolitics

[IndianaBoys]

Amperage Range for Switch?

Ufopolitics,

Thank you for your continued improvements for SAFETY and Efficiency!

What do you believe the amperage range for the switch might be?

I know this is only theoretical until someone does it so there will be no holding your feet to the fire with your feedback

Thank you,

IndianaBoys

[IndianaBoys]

We've all heard that one before, very true for UFO motors. Motor is working a lot better now that brushes have been adjusted, thanks UFO.

When it wouldn't spin at first, I was sure the stator coils were too straight and wide, I almost gave up on the stator.
I'm cutting out my assymetrical UFO stator today, which was the plan originally. I know it will work much better.

So now we know aluminum will work as a UFO rotor.

@Indianaboys
That guy said he took that incredible build apart because he ran out of room, what a shame, he must have many, even nicer builds. You find the neatest links. The plasma arcing video was also really interesting and I think very applicable here. Thanks

Machinealive,

Thank you for your kind words!

Your contributions assist us all in moving closer to energy independence. Thank you for the work you do as well!

This post below from last night is off topic but I think it relevant to all as more than likely they know someone having a health crisis that is in need of a workable solution:

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post209497

IndianaBoys

[Ufopolitics]

Depends on the application...

Ufopolitics,

Thank you for your continued improvements for SAFETY and Efficiency!

What do you believe the amperage range for the switch might be?

I know this is only theoretical until someone does it so there will be no holding your feet to the fire with your feedback

Thank you,

IndianaBoys

Hello I/B,

The rating depends on the application, but basically the Currents being switched are those in the Induced Rotor of a given Assembly, normally would be 50 Amps rated as Max levels. Same as Diodes utilized per Coil/Pair/Group in the Brush-Less Rotor.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[IndianaBoys]

Ufopolitics,

Many thanks!

IndianaBoys