My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Zardox]

Wow! 7400 RPM that is incredable. You have made some nice tweaks to that since the last run. Loved the music. Your still the man.....but you already knew that didn't you.

[prochiro]

Machine
My bolts are 1/4 inch thread and 10 1/8 inch long. Everything bolts up tight. Sorry that you got this far and now a holiday. I thought mine were short also but found that the ends were not straight across to start. I also found that if bolt is not straight into hole that it seems short. Its a close fit.

@UFO
I do not believe it. You keep getting better with your motors and your filming. All meters visible at same time, great.
I like the music also.

Dana

[Ufopolitics]

@Machine Alive and All working on Mecc Alte-Imperial,

Hello Machine and All,

I had a misalignment on the Mecc Alte front shaft-bearings centered plate I've made...I must recognize I am a Lousy Old Lathe Monkey...
I found out when I took it apart and saw the marks on shaft after removing the burnt bearing by the Aluminum Mig Welder...

Now, please, One big favor I need from you...is...On Wednesday the Second of 2013 (yes, meaning "next year"..) to call Mecc Alte...and see if they could get you Part Numbers for:

1-Front Plate,
2-Front Bearing and
3-Front Shaft End Male Piece (to be bolted from long bolt at back of it)

...It should be exactly same as SW16 105 BD Model (Belt Driven)...

Your Mecc Alte should have that set up...if it is Belt Driven, front shafted...
And I hope you have the front split shaft set up...and no one single shaft at Rotor/stator Armature...so you could help me there...

The other thing I highly recommend to All setting up Mecc Alte to Imperial...is to use a RIGID SHAFT COUPLING, and NOT the Flex/Rubber centered Coupler that I have used...it does have drag...and IF there is a misalignment...it will multiply it, amplify it...so you will put lots of stress/mechanical load on Prime Mover...and Amps will raise galore...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[machinealive]

UFO, that was some serious rpm. Looks like a very powerful setup. I measured resistance at ends of leads, with brushes set in series, I used an even cheaper meter, .4-.5 mostly .5, sometimes .6 would flash, still low but it's what we got to work with.

Dana, that's great yours is correct, they must have got things worked out, I won't even bother emailing them, I'll just drill out holes. Maybe I can get some threaded 3/8 rod tomorrow, and make some, till I get to a store.

I will call meccalte for you UFO, no problemo.

So, winding for the gen, would you start clockwise, at p23-24-25, 25-26-27, 27-28-1,then ccw, 7-6-5, 5-4-3, 3-2-1.

[Ufopolitics]

Generator Winding...

UFO, that was some serious rpm. Looks like a very powerful setup. I measured resistance at ends of leads, with brushes set in series, I used an even cheaper meter, .4-.5 mostly .5, sometimes .6 would flash, still low but it's what we got to work with.

Dana, that's great yours is correct, they must have got things worked out, I won't even bother emailing them, I'll just drill out holes. Maybe I can get some threaded 3/8 rod tomorrow, and make some, till I get to a store.

I will call meccalte for you UFO, no problemo.

So, winding for the gen, would you start clockwise, at p23-24-25, 25-26-27, 27-28-1,then ccw, 7-6-5, 5-4-3, 3-2-1.

Hey Machine,

Yeah, it runs very strong now...I feel I must control it not to over run Generator...But will have to beef up controller.

Related to your resistance...That would be fine man...it just need some sparking......it will run awesome...you will see.

About Asymmetric Generator:

You wind it just as Video shows...Except that you will fragment/brake/split each Coil in the Pair into Three "Sub Coils", three South for P# South...and Three North for P# North....the rest CCW turns for S and CW for North...and hooking to Upper Positive...is exactly the same.

I will make a graphic related to this...later tomorrow...but look back to previous pages...and you will find it...not for a Seven Pole per Coil...but for a Four per Coil... (is a P16)...but that will give you the main idea.

Thanks for calling Mecc Alte for parts #'s my friend.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[gotoluc]

Hello to All,

ASYMMETRICALLY MODIFIED IMPERIAL MOTOR TEST 1 - YouTube

In this Test, Motor is connected in Symmetrical Parallel (Pairs facing each others at 180º, at front and rear brush set, just as they come from factory)
Battery Bank: Three 12V 33 Ah /AGM Werker brand.
Feeding:Straight Linear (Non Pulsed)
Reading Volts from Batteries drop and DC Amps Clamped at Positive.
Switch 1: Turns on P1/P15 set at 180º
Switch 2:Turns On P8/P22 set at 90º from switch-set 1 (Full Quadrant On)

At stage 1 (SW 1 ON) RPM's reach 7150, consuming @32 Amps
At Stage 2 (SW 1 ON) RPM's rises above 7400 at @33 Amps

Battery Drop:Less than 2.0 Volts during performance, recuperating almost full at rest (total lost=0.5V)

Original Motor Spec's could be reviewed below:

Permanent Magnet Motor - 56 Frame


Regards


Ufopolitics

Hi UFO, please keep in mind that the original motor specs would have a 4HP load (3000 watts) on it and will turn at 2500rpm with 36volts input and consumes 103 amps (3700 watts) in this condition.

In your new test video you have no load, so I don't understand how you can compare the two motors?

You would need a Dyno attached to your motor set to a 4hp load to compare your modified motor to the original motor specs.

I fail to understand the value of doing this test.

The previous video test setup was a better way but next time use your current probe on the Positive post like you did in this video.

Thanks for all your great work and sharing

Luc

[JumpingFlea]

Hi Mike
Just read your post 3180.Well explained and makes sense .
I've always thought rather than loop power back to source why not isolate it first.What say the power produced or part was used to run a charger that was set to float the source batteries ?
Cheers Pat

[zapzap]

Hi UFO, ...I fail to understand the value of doing this test. Luc

Uhhhh, he already said he was going to do power/torque testing; so while I partially see your point at this time, consider this: That armature weighs about 20lbs and is rotating at 7,400 RPM's. Hello? Want to do a rough torque test and grab the coupling? Do so at your own risk! Do you really not have any idea what it takes to spool up that armature at that RPM in that timeframe?

Maybe not. You seem like a nice person with either one or more of the following challenges:
1. Lack of imagination for temporary (short term) extrapolation,
2. no significant practical experience with electric motors and fast spinning heavy objects,
3. apparently little to no ability to relate previous testing to this step.
It is my impression U.P. is well aware what the datasheets indicate; so perhaps consider giving it a little time and you may well find your instant gratification needs will be met? By the way, did the temperature reading indicate anything to you?
Here, this may help you and others better understand how to use datasheets: How to Read Motor Datasheets | Modular Circuits There’s some really interesting stuff at that page!

I trust this post will help you in the coming New Year!

[prochiro]

@gotoluc
If you have read the above post, maybe you have learned something. But just in case you have not looked at (How to Read Datasheets), consider this, the vary first screen in the video contained the subtitle and it viewed for some time. You probably just skipped that part. The subtitle was (' Testing Top RPM's at Voltage/Amps Consumption"). This test was conducted for no load top RPMs.
Dana

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Gotoluc

Hi UFO, please keep in mind that the original motor specs would have a 4HP load (3000 watts) on it and will turn at 2500rpm with 36volts input and consumes 103 amps (3700 watts) in this condition.

In your new test video you have no load, so I don't understand how you can compare the two motors?

You would need a Dyno attached to your motor set to a 4hp load to compare your modified motor to the original motor specs.

I fail to understand the value of doing this test.

The previous video test setup was a better way but next time use your current probe on the Positive post like you did in this video.

Thanks for all your great work and sharing

Luc

Hello Gotoluc,

I understand perfectly what you are writing above...
I understand what the Original Motor Spec's means...it will deliver 2400 RPM's @ 4HP Torque Load, and consuming 103 Amps/36Volts or 3.7 KVA to do that job...
I have an original, untouched Imperial Motor that I have kept just to make the real (and not by a data sheet) testing of Both Machines...same bank of batteries...same load applied, same reading Meters...

I do not think you are familiar with my Motors , my friend...one attribute they all have...is the very High Torque...from the very small Radio Shack five pole...to any other of bigger number of poles...as it works "directly proportional"....the more poles....the more torque...so Torque...is a Parameter I feel very comfortable with when it comes to my Machines...

I am going to "Dyno" both Machines next...however, I had to Modify the Dynamo-meter, and replace the leather belt by a steel cable used in hydraulic lifters, as also the plastic wheel...for a steel pulley...hoping the Two Digital RAPALA Scales will hold the pound pressure...

In this video I wanted you all to see the response capabilities of this Machine...basically the High RPM's on such Armature Mass...like Member Zapzap wrote (thanks Zap!.. )...That is the reason I wanted to measure total Lbs on Both Armatures...

Did You all noticed of the Amperage readings from start til developing full speed?

If You have not paid attention to that "detail"...please do...observe how it starts at over 67 Amps(Time 4:35 on video)...then 51.7 (@4:37)...and 47.7 (still at 4:37)...36.2A (at 4:39)...35.7 (@4:40) till it reaches a steady value...at 4:42...of 32.68 Amps...then keep it steady at 32 and "some decimals" of Amperage fluctuations...
Now We have to consider the Acceleration attributes from Zero to Full Speed...of a 20 Lbs Rotor...it "blew it" in 0.07 Seconds...


Stay tuned as you will see those Test videos very soon...


Regards



Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Please Do Not Forget about this Set Up!

Hello to All,


Please, I do not want you to forget about this video set up here, shown by Member Netica...

Ufopolitics Project Replication with DC brushed motor. by netica. Video 2 - YouTube

Netica is running a Symmetrical Motor...using an Oscillator that pulses a Nice and "Beefy" Inductor Coil...from two diodes is collected/rectified/regulated the reversed Radiant Energy flow...and with that energy Netica is running the Brushed Motor...the Amp Meter is connected at that Radiant Energy side, not at the Hot side...

Here could be seen clearly that no matter how much we stall/mechanically load that Motor...Amps will NOT Increase at all in "The Other Side" where Radiant flows...

Netica is running that Motor with pure Radiant Energy Field collected from the Inductor Coil, that somehow is isolated from our Hot side Input from Batteries...and the spent energy at Hot side is Minimal compared to our output (after Diodes)

Do NOT Forget about this Set Up...since this Method will be our procedure when it comes to run/pulse/control the Asymmetrically Modified Imperial Motor in a near future...

So...we are not finished yet...


Regards to All


Ufopolitics

[nico8k]

Motor powered by Radiant

Great UFO!!

Your last post is exactly what I was waiting for!
Last days I was reading ALL your other threads from the beginning to learn more about Radiant and for replicate the Netica setup you referred above. Since I saw it I was amazed for the NO amps rise under load!

I recomends everyone to read Ufo's first thread http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...c-systems.html

Ufo I was afraid that you lost your way in teaching about Radiant because trying to "satisfy" all skeptics and people who just see a motor attached to a generator and NOT the "escence" of your original work... RADIANT ENERGY!

Thanks My Dear Friend for your work and teaching!
I wish you have a very happy new year!

And for ALL members... 2013 will be a SUCCESS!

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Nico

[Netica]

Hello to All,


Please, I do not want you to forget about this video set up here, shown by Member Netica...

Ufopolitics Project Replication with DC brushed motor. by netica. Video 2 - YouTube

Netica is running a Symmetrical Motor...using an Oscillator that pulses a Nice and "Beefy" Inductor Coil...from two diodes is collected/rectified/regulated the reversed Radiant Energy flow...and with that energy Netica is running the Brushed Motor...the Amp Meter is connected at that Radiant Energy side, not at the Hot side...

Here could be seen clearly that no matter how much we stall/mechanically load that Motor...Amps will NOT Increase at all in "The Other Side" where Radiant flows...

Netica is running that Motor with pure Radiant Energy Field collected from the Inductor Coil, that somehow is isolated from our Hot side Input from Batteries...and the spent energy at Hot side is Minimal compared to our output (after Diodes)

Do NOT Forget about this Set Up...since this Method will be our procedure when it comes to run/pulse/control the Asymmetrically Modified Imperial Motor in a near future...

So...we are not finished yet...


Regards to All


Ufopolitics

Hi Ufo,

In this video I have the amp meter connected on the hot side it is connected between the battery positive and the coil.

With this set up in the video I later have also connected the meters on the motor and is what I found is when I applied the load to the motor the amperage went up and the voltage went down, when load was lighter the amps went down and the voltage went up which meant the overall draw from the hot side would be constant. Which is what is seen in the video, and occurs at certain frequencies.

netica

[Donald Haas]

Let's Not

Hi All,

Some of us by natural temperamental gifting are highly prone to critism and

negativity and egotism. I am one such person.

Let's not have another episode of energy wasted on such expressions.

We need to see clearly that UFO is sharing his victory.

He has run with the vision until he is walking in the culimation.

He is not looking for approval or acceptance, he is looking to give because of

desire to be a benefit to us.

Let the victory continue to unfold and enjoy the ride. UFO is a gift and a

giver of exceptional quality.

bro d

[Ufopolitics]

I keep forgetting Netica...sorry

Hello Ufo,

With regard to the capacitors I used small ones to start with then added more, I noticed the more I added the better the performance of the motor, It just kept speeding up, until it reached a point where adding the capacitors made no difference. The one I ended up with was 10uf 250v. And yes it is connected in parallel with the motor from coil output.
The 2 small caps I think were 3.3uf 250v each,in series but then in parallel with the other cap and motor. I don't think these smaller caps made much difference once I had the bigger 10uf one attached.
The capacitors were Metallised Polypropylene.

I have no idea what the frequency was, I just dialed it in till it worked the best, same with the duty cycle. at a guess the duty cycle was around 60-70%.

The oscillator I used was from RMCybernetics - RMCybernetics - DIY Homemade Power Pulse Controller
I used this because I just found it the easiest to build and it worked with no problems I just put about 5 different value caps for C1 which are switchable to change the frequency range.


I wanted to re-check this first but may take awhile now because I have crap everywhere. I done another test after making the video, just a little while ago measuring the volts and amps on the motor side (cold side) of the coil.
The video shows the amps on the hot side of the coil and remains constant with load and the volts are 36v.
Now if I remember correctly, on the motor side when the load was applied the amps did go up (on the cold side) but the voltage went right down. Now the hot side showed no change as you see in the video.
So there seems to be one thing happening on the hot side and another thing happening on the cold side.
On the cold side the amps, volts, speed, and load all seemed to be related, they all were changing interrelated to each other but the draw on the hot side would stay constant and unchanging.
The cold side seemed to be isolated from the hot in the way it was behaving.

Regards
netica

Hello Netica,

Nice to see you back!

Sorry to all I keep forgetting about your set up on this video...and You have repeated two times by now...
The first time I am citing above...You wrote it at Page 45 Post 1337...back from August 13...Geez!!

Yes...the Amp Meter is connected in the Hot Side!!...

Well...that I see it as a better result for Us all here...right ?

I mean...wherever the Amp Meter is connected...Amps are not rising up...when adding a mechanical load to Motor...on "cold side" or a "Dependent Circuit"...from Hot side...
It is very simple to replicate this test guys...so, let's give it all a try...and post results...here lies one of the "Enigmas" to resolve a big issue...driving a Motor (no matter where the feed comes from...as long we obtain the required speed and torque for app/operation)...while at the Main Feed Source...Amps do not "really care"...and remain the same...therefore Wattage will not increase...

In my other Thread...I have run Symmetrical Motors with this same set up...("The Happy Motor")...and no sparks at commutator and very low temperature...as speed rises beyond manufacturers spec's...while using the Cold Side flow.

Any ways...I will give it a try with the Imperial...and see what happens...


Thanks Netica and regards


Ufopolitics