My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Ufopolitics]

Weight Loss...

That makes a lot of sense, you're definitely right.

Hello 4lpha1,

I am glad you see it, Thank You...

Would weight loss really be a big issue though? With your motor design, it seems like a battery bank would need to be substantially smaller.

Definitively...a lighter Vehicle will drag much less, releasing stress to all power train system...acceleration times will become shorter, responsive take off will be excellent...it will fly...

Why do you think the Super Exotic Vehicles are so expensive?

Firms like Ferrari ...Lamborghini...Bugatti...Mc Laren...etc,etc

They are made with super light weight and five times stronger than steel composite materials...like KEVLAR, Carbon Fiber...Titanium, HSL Aluminum...Exotic Metal Alloys...etc,etc

Their Main Frames...their Uni-Body Structures...even the Brake Discs and Pads... are made with those Exotic and expensive light composites...check them out yourself...

The good news are ...that we could also incorporate those exotic materials into our Motor Frames...

Wouldn't you like that your Car could fly off the ground?...and still be VERY Stable?

Stability at High Speeds is achieved by Air Space Dynamics Designs...Ailerons...Spoilers...Air Deflectors...and a whole world of Space Age Designs...

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Just to "tease" your desires...

God, I can't wait to actually start playing with these systems; I hate being in the dark.

Cheers!
Cole

You Will...be patient...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Wow!...Nice thinking!

Just thinking and probably out to lunch.
If for instance like Cornboy's stator forms or even a rotor for that matter, if the individual plates were completly coated. Could the stator form itself be used as a multi-plate capacitor. I am probably crazy for even thinking it but oh well what else is new. At least I am thinking.

Hello Zardox,

Absolutely I do believe it will be an excellent idea...even not coating them...but using dielectric in between...sandwiched...nice!

On Rotor...since we have independent Coils...we no longer need a whole solid metal lamination for each Pair-Coil-Group...they could have a very strong insulator as the structural frame (a composite fiber fused with high temp epoxy resin) ...while every Pole in the group is separate, independent...as also sandwiched...a Material, a Core with Capacitors built in...great thinking!

I DO like it!

But maybe there would be draw backs...who knows till we make it real?


Regards


Ufopolitics

[machinealive]

Hey UFO,

I was wondering where you had caps hooked on the 9 pole. If they hook up where brushes will contact, so parallel to coils, brushes, would you say this is an open or closed system?

Thanks
Machine

[Ufopolitics]

Open-Close?

Hey UFO,

I was wondering where you had caps hooked on the 9 pole. If they hook up where brushes will contact, so parallel to coils, brushes, would you say this is an open or closed system?

Thanks
Machine

Hey Machine,

It is a Closed "Sub" System...within an Open System.

If we look at each LC (Coil-Cap Circuit) it is indeed a closed System.

[IMG][/IMG]

But, if we refer to the whole Three Coils as a System...then, it is Open.

That is why I wrote "Sub System"...

The Cap assist Coil to store the charges, by exchanging back and forth from magnetic field storage...to static storage...and the reversal of voltage will not affect Cap...since it is an AC, Non Polarized...:P

I believe Current (I) here will maintain as it manifest at Input...it will also "enhance" Magnetic Field strength...

But, let's see how it turns out ...I know it does not only retains better the energy...but it transfers it through Transformer effect to the other coils...Plus, we get Induction energy from Stators since this Three Closed Sub Systems are Dynamic...rotating within a magnetic field...so, yes...it is crazy...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[machinealive]

Perfect UFO, we are on the same page.
If you connect the caps between n and s of coil, it would remain open, right. So, we need to do both, to see difference betwwen an open and closed system. Wounld't that be a good test?

I hope to due what you are doing with my new brush, except I will be discharging coil whole time, and you will be discharging at once. Charge your cap then put your screwdriver acrossed it, that will be what brushes experience if it fully charges, I can't wait to see what happens.

[IndianaBoys]

Ufopolitics,

You are far out!

This will be very interesting!

Looking forward to read your feedback once you give it a whirl.

That looks like it came from a Torqmaster?



IndianaBoys

[nico8k]

Arduino PWM using hardware timers

Nico8K
I have not been able to get over the 1K regular barrier on arduino as understanding internal timers are tricky. Could you share your code in text form so that others could learn about this also. If you do not want to post here, at least PM me the code your are using so I can study it please.
Dana

Hi Dana

Here you have my PWM project, see link below.
There you can find the Arduino sketch (.ino file) and circuit schematics (images and Fritzing file)

This circuit is just a test but it will guide you on how to connect LCD and buttons. The LCD is not a request, if you don't have one you can check data in Arduino IDE Console but comment the line UpdateLCD() (type // before).

I have commented every line of code so you and others can understand whats going on, if you don't understand something please ask me. As you said timers are tricky! even me I don't completely understand! so this part of code I've copy pasted from other web sites, you can find the links at beginning of code.

You may ask why I decided to use buttons and not two simple potentiometers to control freq and duty? The problem I've found using pots is that they aren't precise, it makes the pwm output very jerky, we can use multi-turn pots but are very expensive and guess it will be difficult to set the desired freq.
So I choose to make a list with Hz out that everyone needs. (see comments in code on how to use)
Freq+ button step one position in the list and Freq- back one pos.
Duty goes from 1% to 100% in steps of 5% but below 10% the step change to 1% (I think that this will help when testing high amp pulses).

Sometimes you will find some gaps on the PWM output when changing freq, I can't solve this yet but I am working on.

Hope this project be useful for you and others!

If any have questions I guess it would be better to write in the other thread.

Link to files:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8tzugstzr...oPWMSwitch?lst

Bye

Nico

[Cornboy 555]

Dummy.

Ufopolitics,

You are far out!

This will be very interesting!

Looking forward to read your feedback once you give it a whirl.

That looks like it came from a Torqmaster?



IndianaBoys

Hello IndianaBoys, as you are probably aware i am a computer dummy, would like to know how you placed just that one pic in your post, thanks.

Regards Cornboy.

[JohnStone]

Monster Pulser V5.1

Now get off the starting blocks Build Monster pulser!

Here you have the Monster Pulser V5.1 -prerelease. I added another resistor in order to get the FETs silent when you test. There are a lot of components on this board for failure handling only. But that is quite normal.
Thre is one template therein for assembling components. Please make sure you print this single sheet in 100% original size. Else your printer might adapt the size to your lokal letter size.

I do not want to torture you by further delay. Therefore I decided to release this file now. Later on I will get the manual ready.

• Think in building blocks! I marked them by dotted lines in circuit diagram and I ask you kindly to build a block, test it and build the next one. It will ease finding errors - especially for non professionals.
• R2 and R9 are gate resistors for dampening oscillations. Test first with wire jumpers only. If you detect oscillations add resistors starting with 1 Ohm and increase up to the value where oscilations vanish.
• If you have built the last block (FETs themselves) please start testing with resitor and car bulb (as load) first. If you are pleased DO NOT ADD A COIL before you read the hints below!
• PEASE: be careful! This circuit will switch very fast - resulting in high spikes even at low voltage. That is definitely intended but your FETs might differ from our intention. A normal ignition coil emits spikes of up to 300V - even more if the capacitor at points is missing.
• Please read the preliminary manual V4 as well because there are some important facts discussed there. (Note: The diagrams there refer to V4. )
  There you find a simple circuit for determining the peak voltge of those spikes. With this circuit attached you start with 12v - better 6V. Then you crawl step by step to the final use - else you will sacrifice many FETs.
• Please buy diodes D4, D5, D8, D9 fitting to the Vds of your FETs. These ones refer to T1/T2 . Two diodes in series shall be well below the max. voltage of your FETs!

I want you ALL to easily build this monster pulser all over the world in order to support running Ufo's asymmetric motors! Sorry if my post seems confusing to you. Late night now again. I will add knowledge in a more structured way in a manual coming soon.


Please note: this pulser never was built before - I myself will start doing it. There might occur some minute modifications before I can issue a real release - proved by 3 of your replications minimum.


John Stone

[Cornboy 555]

Cornfused.

Hello Cornboy,

You are gonna "owe" me SO much Garlic...I will be able to pay off Machine Alive...

Here is a Diagram to wind Stators the "Asymmetrical Way"...We are "bending" the Lorentz "so rigid and so straight" Magnetic Vectors...again...

[IMG][/IMG]

The advantages apply exactly same way as when we wound the Armature Coils in Pairs...or Groups that are not set by a Symmetrical or "Mirrored" 180º apart...we do not "Cross Fire" them at any point...therefore, Cancelling opposite equally balanced fields is nearly impossible...my friend.

I have set Three Stators Channels here, as to Input Your Pulses...saying first you will be pulsing just P1-P13-P25 set at 120º apart...then, use the other three Brush Gates as Output...You could do much more here...like to feed all six and be like a Super-Turbo Boost...

BUT, Let's first "Digest" this one...which is the simplest one...then we will move into Full Power of Six Gates Feeding...as also to the Secondaries...sorry, but If I dump all that info at once...We all will go dizzy...

So, getting Back to Three Gate Input Here:

I am sure you will be building the Monster Pulser-Controller from Sir John Stone...to run that beauty right?
Well, then you could test this feed with only Three Channels...BUT...Pulsing at same exact TIMING...their Respective "Matching" Stators Gates...

So, You pulse P1 with Stator 1 Gate (N1-S1)...P13 with Stat 2 Gate (N2-S2)...and last, P25 with Stat 3 Gate or N3-S3...

This way...You will be pulsing with same "Intensity" and timing all this Copper Wires...in order that your EMP (Electro Magnetic Pulses) will be equally and synchronized in Crescendo...incrementing together as you "accelerate" your Monster Electronics...


And...of course you realize that you could set on all Three Stator Gates...your Ultra-fast Diodes...to get HER into your room......all dressed up in silky purple...and ready to be seduced by your Garlic breath...

Just kidding My Friend...

This Diagrams will get "just a bit" more complicated...when we wind Stators for a Full Six Pack Turbo Race......So...let me know if you see everything here so far.

Warm Regards Cornboy...and besides all jokes...I really appreciate you have launched into this big project / big investment of the MAG 3...That means you must trust me a lot, and I really appreciate that...since I have not even tried that set up myself...but, then again...I have done that many times before...and so far...they all worked out right?...


Ufopolitics

Hello UFO, here goes the dumb questions, please take it easy on me, as i passed 1st class mechanical but not electrical.

Yes i will be using OUR John Stone's pulser, god bless him.

It was a tragedy about your garlic, if you let me know how much you owe Machine Alive i can ship some of next years crop straight to him, freight might be easier to go to the snow country.

I think i see every thing here so far, UFO, and i will follow your instructions and start simple as you suggest. Please don't be afraid to let me know if you think i am not understanding properly.

So wind stator coils as 3 x N-S pairs, and pulse them simultaniously but seperatly with 3x JS modules, with one PWM signal to all 3 modules?

If that is correct, which would be the best way to time the signal?
1. From vane hall sensor sending signal to pulser, fixed with rotor RPM, if so what would you reccomend as on time, say in degrees?

2. From PWM driver, with adjustable duty and frequency?

I know it's down the track aways, but in regards to secondary windings, i have the opportunity now to leave space on stator cores after winding primaries as i can wind the primaries wide and flat and still have enough room for secondaries directly on the iron cores.

The reason i am asking this now is i will be coating all windings, rotor and stators, with a generous bathing of insulating varnish, which will make changing wiring later difficult.

My understanding is that with secondaries directly on the core, the output will be more like a standard transformer, hot, maybe better for say battery charging, where secondaries wound over the top of primaries, more cold, maybe better for say running a seperate stock DC motor to run generator for battery charging?

So i guess my question is, Should i wind primary stator coils all the way up the cores?

Yep i'm cornfused.

I am still struggling with how you can pulse the output gates i can't see clearly yet what you mean, and how this works.
I know you show this with Imperial, but it hasn't sunk in yet sorry.

You are right UFO, i need to do some backtracking, but crap, it's hard to find the precious time to sift back through the threads.


Anyway SIX PACK sounds great i used to have one once.

Warm regards UFO

Cornboy.

[Cornboy 555]

Thanks JS.

Thanks John Stone, for your dedication and persistance, in developing a Heavy Duty, purpose built, Driver for us, it is very much appreciated friend.

Warmest regards

Cornboy.

[Cornboy 555]

Not Yet.

Hello I B's, i can see you are here now so i thought i would reply here.
When i right click over image i don't have option of "copy image location" only copy. also i can't use edit while "insert image" box is up. Thanks for not taking up forum space and i will do the same if you wish.
Regards Cornboy.

[Donald Haas]

Md5.1 - Bom Help

@experts

C_ELKO_RM5,08_DM6 pitch 5.08 mm / diameter 6mm / voltage > 20V

10μF D6R2,54_ELKO pitch 2.54 mm / diameter 6mm / voltage > 20V

100nF 3X13R7,62


Does someone understand where to find these exact parts.

I've been chasing the wind for 2 days.

Maybe someone can translate into plain american.

Sorry that I'm so needy.

bro d

[IndianaBoys]

Hello I B's, i can see you are here now so i thought i would reply here.
When i right click over image i don't have option of "copy image location" only copy. also i can't use edit while "insert image" box is up. Thanks for not taking up forum space and i will do the same if you wish.
Regards Cornboy.

Hi CornBoy 555,

Check your private messages.

We'll get you through this.

IndianaBoys

[4lpha1]

Hello 4lpha1,
[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Just to "tease" your desires...

Ufopolitics

I think we're on the same page, and that's a beautiful design. Can it fly though?

Many thanks for the driver design, John.

Cheers!
Cole