My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[4lpha1]

Getting closer

So I've clamped down my motor and aligned it properly, mechanical drag seems to be all but gone. I've noticed that the motor only starts when aligned certain ways, it's as if some of the coils are dead or partially so, between 2-3 of them.

Getting closer...

[Ufopolitics]

Now it is "Rock and Rolling"!

Heres a new video, with the motor tightened up and measuring the output wired in series.

Asymmetric Scooter motor with output voltage - YouTube

Hello Warrensk,

Nice job!, Now I can feel that Humming, Roaring noise!...the Beast is unleashed!...

Now you should make a run test at 24 Volts...see how Beast goes.

Are you planning to install it back at Scooter?...Once You've got the right controller for it?...it would be awesome to see it running on the streets.

Just make sure you get closer to your controls a Kill Switch to Batteries.

I am pretty sure that Machine will really move on a Scooter with just a couple of small (33-35 Ah) SLA Batteries.

Great work my friend!


Regards


Ufopolitics

[JohnStone]

So I've clamped down my motor and aligned it properly, mechanical drag seems to be all but gone. I've noticed that the motor only starts when aligned certain ways, it's as if some of the coils are dead or partially so, between 2-3 of them.

Getting closer...

Hi 4lpha1,
your problem is a known one. Given you have no shorts or wrong wired coils (please check):

• Search for the N-pole at stator. Mark Bisector
• Mark a cluster of poles embraced by a coil you know to be north if energized via commutator. Do not trust in theory! Enrgize it and check for N. Mark bisector of pole cluster selected.
• Turn armature in order to align exactly bisectors marked above.
• Check position of brushes! At this position brushes shall not contact the commutator segments being related to the coil pair being in focus.
• Turn the armature slightly in the turn direction intended. Now the brushes SHALL START contacting. The procedure is like adjusting the spark timing at a gas engine.

After this adjustment your motor should start by itself if energized and it shall do it in the direction intended. After that you may decide to make some fine tuning of brush position.

You shall know that other alignments do run as well but not well - as intended.

@ALL:
Please perform the procedure described above before winding! Then you know exactly to which commutator element you need to connect a coil.
Some motors have brushes aligned to the gap between stator magnets and others are aligned to bisector of magnets. Some have two elements for each pole at armature ..... I myself fell into this pit and had to rearrange all connections.
Ufos templates are superiour but you still need to use your mind in order to make them real at your personal setup.
JohnS

[Ufopolitics]

21 Poles Timing Adjust

Hello Smitev, Hello to All,

A Note to ALL: This Info applies to ALL Asymmetric Motors Bisectors Adjust, although, Smitev 21 Poles renders UNEVEN Angles due to the Asymmetry of 21 Poles...all other Quadrant EVEN Divisions render EQUAL Angles, however, the main Laws Applies whenever adjusting Brushes for MAX Performance as Torque and Speed of this Machines.
As can be noticed, bringing the Pairs Coils Bisectors as Close as Possible to the Stators Bisectors of EQUAL MAGNETIC POLARITY, will deliver better performance. AS LONG AS Pair Bisectors do NOT pass Stator Bisectors to the "other side", or Machine will turn opposite to established Rotation sense.

This Adjustment brings Rotor to MAX REPULSION INTERACT...Why I use Repulsion and not Attraction?
Repulsion uses our Rotor Mass Inertia Forces to our advantage for rotation, by pushing it towards attraction mode, not that way for attraction, where we are "pulling", dragging the rotor mass weight...

The Difference is HUGE...You could test it by yourselves...

Smitev,

Here is shown only the Interacting Pairs at Input-Output, note that in your Geometry (21 poles) you are limited by the smallest Angle shown between P12 South Bisector and its corresponding Stator South Bisector, and would say One Degree LESS. In order Not to be right at TDC (Top Dead Center or Bisectors aligned evenly in a straight line, Not Good, unpredictable rotation sense may develop)

[IMG][/IMG]


By Adjusting your Motor this way will deliver a much more powerful Machine...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Yes Indeed We need that...

Amazing work UFO & guys contributing and building!!!!!!!

UFO do you need a bulletin board / forum / website to organise all the relevant information into easier to find locations?

This is what I have done for two seperate inventors on Earth ION Energy and GravInert

These sites are progressing as and when I find the time to. I could set up yours and hand over the reins to whoever you liked or just make the progress myself but slowly.

It doesn't have to be a forum to start with or at all..... Just a place to organise the information.


I also thought doing something like this guy has would be beneficial for the R&D.

TeslaTronix- Tesla Power For The Masses by TeslaTronix - Kickstarter

There are a growing number of builders who could be involved in something like this.

These are just a few of my ideas that I wanted to share for some brainstorming.

Best regards,

Paul

Hello Soundiceuk,


Yes, you are completely right, I know we need that site...
I am pretty good at building sites, and Forums (I program PHP, MySQL, APACHE Server Language, C++ etc,etc)...it is just very time consuming...and I really do not have the TIME...and actually times bolts down to "Legal Tender Notes"...I need them to fulfill my Bills payments...

We need a Chart where we display everything organized by Geometry of Poles-Stators Configurations...as well as all the Replications made already and a "How To"...make this Machines from scratch.

Also "Future Projects"...

Also Electronic Driver Controllers...from the simplest, cheaper to the High Performance ones...

All You Tube Videos will be able to Open/Play "On Site"...meaning right in Posts (simple YT Edit Button, lot of programming in the back end though...)


However I still have a lot of Material to cover up here...to Disclose...plus I have been helping/assisting other Replications everywhere I possibly can...So Far we are all using the Symmetry Old Structures...and we are trying to make them work...and they do...however, the HAMMERING EFFECT could be achieved by different Rotor Core Designs...that would have to be done from scratch...and We do not have the means to make them so far...


But we will get there some time this year...

Hope TIME stretches and the WIND...Blows in our favor...and LIFE will not play a bad taste joke...

There is an old beautiful Spanish Song (From time to time life...)...unfortunately, I could not found it with English Subtitles...describing exactly, how life is...

Juan Manuel Serrat- "De vez en cuando la vida" - YouTube

I translated the Lyrics for you...

From time to time life...
give Us a tender kiss...
And in colors she unfolds like an Atlas...
She takes Us for rides in elegant Gigs...
And We all feel in good hands...
She fits to our desires...
going our same steps...
And pulls a Rabbit out of an old Magician's Hat...
And We are happy like a Child...
Just getting out of School..

From time to time life...
Drinks Coffee with me...
And She is looking so pretty...
That I love to see Her...
She losses her hair...
And invites me..
To come out to stage...

From time to time life...
Shows up naked...
And grants Us a dream...
a very elusive dream...
that we have to walk in tiptoe
not to brake the spell...

From time to time life...
sharpens the paint brush..
We get goose bumps...
we run short of words...
seeing all She offers...
to those who knows how to use Her...

From time to time life...
plays a joke...
And we wake up...
not knowing what happened?
Sucking up a stick...
seating on top of a Pumpkin...

Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Looking Good!

Hello,

Well, I went out to do some testing, real excited, you know, and I knocked over my table and cooked my controller, I couldn't believe it. So now I need to reorder some fets. I will try the other two I had, 300v@120amps.

Here is a video I made, before the accident, not much and I wasn't gonna post, but it may be a week or two before I get rebuilt. I don't have much for scope shots, I was planning to do that, sorry.

I guess I will start mounting the mecc alte, and learn arduino, while i wait for fets, I think I'll look for higher rated (voltage) fets, and make several drivers, to bump up the current.

Anyway, hereis a video of 56, being pulsed, and working. @ 36v, hard to get RPM up to 3000.

56 test with new controller, finally working. - YouTube

Hey Machine,

Man, sorry about your FET'S!...
Are you using the Monster Set Up from John Stone?

I do not believe any other set up will pulse this Machine, honestly.
Even My Solenoid got screwed up...contacts melted. And my next step is going to be Carbon Contacts.

There is got to be a way to pulse it smoother.

I noted Amperage is very low...and that is what we are looking for in pulsing...as it will not affect machine performance.

When Mecc Alte demands/stiffens its shaft when full loads are applied...is going to be even more stress to Driving FET's...

I knew a Rheostat will not work...and that is linear feed, not pulsed.

We could try putting Flywheel Diodes at Input...will kill Radiant...but if it works...let's go for it.


I am still building the 9 poles Cap model...but really have not much time dedicated to it lately...been extremely busy.


Regards friend


Ufopolitics

[valllhalla]

Hello and Welcome here Valllhalla!


Yes...Imagine...just Imagine...!


Very nice video...now watch this ones...

ABB Modular traction motors - A new era in traction motor design - YouTube

EMD D32 Generator test run - YouTube


Nice Uh?...Imagine some more?


Regards


Ufopolitics

Thank you!

Yess Sir!!! That's some nice motors, but only if they were asymmetric

[machinealive]

Hey UFO,

The controller with johnstone's driver works good. I just tried 62v, still dreww about 23 amps, 6000 rpm. The neons across ds did not glow or light. So it's the current spike at start that killed my fets previously, as soon as I hooked the 1 ohm coil up in series with cap and motor, everything stopped cooking. My first monster driver attempt, also fried fets when I had cap in parallel to motor, without the 1 ohm coil of 16 ga.

I put a switch across the 1 ohm coil, I am going to go back to 24 v and see what happens when I short out the coil, once motor starts running, i am thinking not much will happen, but we'll see.

What rpm do you think we need, to load mecc alte to 6000 watts and still have 3600 rpm? I'm going to start setting the alte up, so we will find out, but do think the 10000 rpm will do it? I'm sure that would only be one more 12v batt should be at least 8-9000 rpm unloaded. I'm going to try one more batt tonight, 72vdc totasl, we'll see.

[smitev72]

the Asymmetry of 21 Poles

Hello Smitev, Hello to All,

A Note to ALL: This Info applies to ALL Asymmetric Motors Bisectors Adjust, although, Smitev 21 Poles renders UNEVEN Angles due to the Asymmetry of 21 Poles...all other Quadrant EVEN Divisions render EQUAL Angles, however, the main Laws Applies whenever adjusting Brushes for MAX Performance as Torque and Speed of this Machines.
As can be noticed, bringing the Pairs Coils Bisectors as Close as Possible to the Stators Bisectors of EQUAL MAGNETIC POLARITY, will deliver better performance. AS LONG AS Pair Bisectors do NOT pass Stator Bisectors to the "other side", or Machine will turn opposite to established Rotation sense.

This Adjustment brings Rotor to MAX REPULSION INTERACT...Why I use Repulsion and not Attraction?
Repulsion uses our Rotor Mass Inertia Forces to our advantage for rotation, by pushing it towards attraction mode, not that way for attraction, where we are "pulling", dragging the rotor mass weight...

The Difference is HUGE...You could test it by yourselves...

Smitev,

Here is shown only the Interacting Pairs at Input-Output, note that in your Geometry (21 poles) you are limited by the smallest Angle shown between P12 South Bisector and its corresponding Stator South Bisector, and would say One Degree LESS. In order Not to be right at TDC (Top Dead Center or Bisectors aligned evenly in a straight line, Not Good, unpredictable rotation sense may develop)

[IMG][/IMG]


By Adjusting your Motor this way will deliver a much more powerful Machine...


Regards


Ufopolitics

Good day UFO,

Thank you for all that you have presented. I understand how much time it takes to do this work. And once again, thanks for sharing your ideas and knowledge so freely!!

Best Regards

smitev72

[warrensk]

16 pole scooter motor pulsed with audio signal

Hello,

I totally just threw this together. I dont have too much knowledge with electronics but I like to try and figure things out and build my own. Please let me know what you guys think of it....ways to improve it?

Im currently running ableton (which i used to use for DJing) with analog, outputting a square wave with width modulation, rectifying it with a diode and using the signal to switch 2 mpsa06 transistors in parallel. Ive got 12 volts across the transistors which in turn switch 3 irf740a mosfets in parallel. The fets then switch my power supply of 13.8 volts (i need to get some rechargeable batteries) acrpss the motor.

It works great and allows for some interesting types of pulsing.

Heres a video of the setup:

Asymmetric motor pulsed with audio signal +radiant energy circuit - YouTube

Thanks for any feedback!

Warrensk

[machinealive]

Hello,

@warrensk. Nice job warren. You have something to play with now! cool.

Well, I had to try shorting that coil I had in series. Start: 24v in, 75hz, App 90% duty. Motor drew 20 amps, 1300 rpm, 10.6 v across motor cap, 8.2 v across generator caps. Then I shorted the coil, rpm shot up to 3100 rpm, drawing 21.5 amps, motor caps now up to 22.4 v and gen caps at 19v. It got hot real fast, shut it down, fets stayed good. So then I thought I would video a run. started up great 1300 rpm, shorted coil, 3100-3200 rpm, but she got to hot, I guess i didn't let cool enough. so,... more toast, no video.

My two neons across ds did not light, and current meter stayed around 22 amps, so I am guessing heat deterioration, or a voltage spike that killed fets but not enough to light neons, but I feel it was the current.

I need about four coils in series that I can short 1 at a time, or a heavy duty rheostat, there must be a "best resistance" for highest rpm.

UFO, I'm sure I can get this switching,and stable, but I'm out of fets. 2-3 more tries should do it, tops. Hopefully next try will do it.

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Machine

Hello,

@warrensk. Nice job warren. You have something to play with now! cool.

Well, I had to try shorting that coil I had in series. Start: 24v in, 75hz, App 90% duty. Motor drew 20 amps, 1300 rpm, 10.6 v across motor cap, 8.2 v across generator caps. Then I shorted the coil, rpm shot up to 3100 rpm, drawing 21.5 amps, motor caps now up to 22.4 v and gen caps at 19v. It got hot real fast, shut it down, fets stayed good. So then I thought I would video a run. started up great 1300 rpm, shorted coil, 3100-3200 rpm, but she got to hot, I guess i didn't let cool enough. so,... more toast, no video.

My two neons across ds did not light, and current meter stayed around 22 amps, so I am guessing heat deterioration, or a voltage spike that killed fets but not enough to light neons, but I feel it was the current.

I need about four coils in series that I can short 1 at a time, or a heavy duty rheostat, there must be a "best resistance" for highest rpm.

UFO, I'm sure I can get this switching,and stable, but I'm out of fets. 2-3 more tries should do it, tops. Hopefully next try will do it.

Hey Machine!

Man, I know you will end up taming that beast one day..., sorry again about your loss!...

One thing you may have noticed is that the Commutator is the Main part that gets hot on this Imperial Motors...while Coils are not even warm...and I could easily say "Room Temp"
The Commutator gaps IMO are way too small for the type of arrangement we have here, which is two segments per Pair...that reduces drastically the Off Times (brake) in Machine overall performance, but that's not all...The Pulses we apply electronically MUST BE somehow, close to the Commutator pulses We feed, in order that "Server-Client" (Robot talk) Network would be more or less similar related to T-On/T-Off.

Other words, Heat is getting concentrated MORE on Commutator than in Coils, meaning, Not enough time to allow/disburse Reversed Energy to enter/propagate into coils , therefore, remaining at commutators and crashing with next Input...and when We say Heat, means Reversed Energy lost...and blown FET's.

I am gonna take apart the Imperial when I get a chance and spread a bit more those gaps...to me, they are definitively too small.

Another thing that I have mentioned earlier, would be to add a "Resistors Belt" around just one end of Motor, I prefer the Negative to the Input side, and I am talking about 3K and above resistors between all elements. This will increase your Output Voltage, but mainly, it will decrease the Amperage reversed flow presence at Input Gates, by dissipating it through the rest of Coils....and you know Radiant really do not "care" about resistance we add...SHE will go through at cold temperatures...


Regards my Friend


Ufopolitics

[jeffy39]

comm. gaps

Howdy UFO, All,
1st, thanx for previous replies, yours and Machines'.
I found pulling used wire between two hand-held 3/4" wide strips
of oak really smothed out the bends. However, the used wire was on
the first 6 pairs, and are not long enough for the later ones, necessitating
a splice between coils. I did 2 of them, dont like it, and am removing them
and getting new wire tomorrow.
2) Per your comment about comm. gaps too small. What would be the effect
of our using every other segment? ie, remove all the jumpers. Shorter 'on' time
of course.
Thanx to all, later, jw39

[JohnStone]

Hello,

I totally just threw this together. I dont have too much knowledge with electronics but I like to try and figure things out and build my own. Please let me know what you guys think of it....ways to improve it?

Im currently running ableton (which i used to use for DJing) with analog, outputting a square wave with width modulation, rectifying it with a diode and using the signal to switch 2 mpsa06 transistors in parallel. Ive got 12 volts across the transistors which in turn switch 3 irf740a mosfets in parallel. The fets then switch my power supply of 13.8 volts (i need to get some rechargeable batteries) acrpss the motor.

It works great and allows for some interesting types of pulsing.

Heres a video of the setup:

Asymmetric motor pulsed with audio signal +radiant energy circuit - YouTube

Thanks for any feedback!

Warrensk

Hi Warrensk,
you are inventive!!! Like it. Please move to the other thread for pulser discussion.

[Cornboy 555]

MAG3 progress.

[IMG][IMG][IMG][/IMG][/IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Hello UFO an all, finally i had success pressing shaft into rotor core, you wouldn't believe some of the things that can happen when scratch building. ( well i think most of you would.)

The first atempt i bent the shaft due to my own carelessnes, the second attempt with new chrome moly shaft, keyways machined and all! i found the material was 12 thou undersize for about 6 inches along the shaft, The company replaced the material but machining was lost.

Anyway third time lucky.

It's pouring down again here, have had another 8 inches of rain, on top of 12 inches, and more to come, oh well so much for my soy beans i just planted

Am still waiting for wire, slot paper and sticks, and 6mm hard insulation, to make brush holder plates from.

I will give the bare rotor a light dipping in resin to bind the laminations before starting with slot paper etc.

Included in pic are the heat sink i will use for 6 module pulser, with room for another 6 if needed, and power supply, i have four of these batteries,12v 100ah each. Also i have 4 - 3farrad 18v digital auido capacitors to hook up parrelell to batteries to help inrush with startup ect.
Finally just thought i'd throw in pic of one of my mobile free range layer sheds, although at the moment the chooks are starting to think they are Ducks.

All The Best everyone,

Regards Cornboy.