My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Ufopolitics]

The Poison of Darkness came back...

At long last, a true asymmetrical topology, this variation fits the thread title.

ALL, But ALL of the Wiring Methods/Diagrams that I have shared/displayed here are TRUE ASYMMETRICAL DESIGNS...And ALL of Them FIT the Thread Title.

You were close to this some time ago but you abandoned it...that was unfortunate...

In every New Technology, Open to Research and Development...There is always an expectation of newer, better designs, improvements to achieve a better performance.

Without the development of the First and Second Methods, there could have never existed a Third one that got its origins from primaries.

And still there would be more to be developed and exposed...to this Technology.

This recently exposed wiring structure can not fit into every existing motor structure out there, it is limited.

The only "Unfortunate" issue here...is that we all have been ruled/constrained, by just one Symmetric Methodology to design and create all the Motors and Generators that have existed so far... for more than 133 long years...up to now...That I have proven beyond doubt, it CAN BE DONE, and in MANY other different Ways, Flavors and Colors...and they ALL, completely differ from the 'locked in time' symmetrical scam...

I am interested in how you are going to manage the impedance imbalance which is inherent in this design.

Are You interested?!...really?...
You know how to do that...as most here...why ask?...to know "if we know"?

@Erfinder, I do not want you to respond to this post, I do not want you here at all...as always, you have, and still do "make your entrance" here to bring your Poison against me, as you have done in the Past.

Not welcome here


Ufopolitics

P.D: If You still respond...//no matter if just "to say goodbye"//...I will address Aaron Murakami about this.

[erfinder]

ALL, But ALL of the Wiring Methods/Diagrams that I have shared/displayed here are TRUE ASYMMETRICAL DESIGNS...And ALL of Them FIT the Thread Title.



In every New Technology, Open to Research and Development...There is always an expectation of newer, better designs, improvements to achieve a better performance.

Without the development of the First and Second Methods, there could have never existed a Third one that got its origins from primaries.

And still there would be more to be developed and exposed...to this Technology.

This recently exposed wiring structure can not fit into every existing motor structure out there, it is limited.

The only "Unfortunate" issue here...is that we all have been ruled/constrained, by just one Symmetric Methodology to design and create all the Motors and Generators that have existed so far... for more than 133 long years...up to now...That I have proven beyond doubt, it CAN BE DONE, and in MANY other different Ways, Flavors and Colors...and they ALL, completely differ from the 'locked in time' symmetrical scam...



Are You interested?!...really?...
You know how to do that...as most here...why ask?...to know "if we know"?

@Erfinder, I do not want you to respond to this post, I do not want you here at all...as always, you have, and still do "make your entrance" here to bring your Poison against me, as you have done in the Past.

Not welcome here


Ufopolitics

P.D: If You still respond...//no matter if just "to say goodbye"//...I will address Aaron Murakami about this.

Call Aaron....I post when and where I please. If you didn't want me to respond, you should have simply done the grownup thing and ignored my post.

I didn't bring poison against you, (calm down....take your meds like a good old man), I came here with genuine interest (past and present).

Regarding my question, I encountered the same issue (impedance imbalance) that you are going to encounter, and if you don't you will be missing one hell of a party. That's the reason for my breaking the silence and posting my question, but as usual, you shoot, then open pit roast the those who question. Anyway...have fun in never never land...

Your asymmetrical machines are still pulling way way way waaaaaay too much current.... at idle...... .... ........no load..... .......you might want to look into that, oh, and brushes...that's so 50's, you're better than that!

You failed to do the adult thing and ignore my last post...please this time around, try to be the bigger man, the better man, and ignore this one...


Regards

[JohnStone]

@Dana: Amazing what you do! Thanks for sharing. If you used those coolmos FETs proposed you can go up to 600V with spikes. Please measure spikes at pulser at a certain voltage / amperage and post values. Then we can estimate how far you can go.
For 120V countries it might be possible to drive with mains rectified! Please use safety transformer.

@ALL: ONLY PERSONS EDUCATED FOR DEALING WITH MAINS SHALL EVER TRY USING MAINS VOLTAGES! OTHERS MAY NOT SURVIVE! WE STILL NEED YOU AND LOVE YOU BEING ALIVE!
Please note that worldwide standards claim that DC voltages above 42V are voted to be dangerous (60V for POTS -> plain old telephone system) and shall not be touched by humans nor tinkerers . OK - 60V will not be lethal imediately in most cases for healthy persons but PLEASE start to be cautious - train yourself to be alert!!!!!!
Those living in countries with 50HZ mains: Please note that this frequeny corresponds to human nervous frequency causing muscular spasms - you possibly can not escape by yourself if being electrified! Additionally you have doubled mains voltage!

@UFO: Thanks for your last post regarding puls train and delay. Now I grasped it.
CH1 -> pulse train as we know it with variable frequency and duty
Ch2 -> same pulse train like CH1 but delayed
CH3 -> same pulse train like CH2 but same delay
.....

@Cornboy: Special AU make will extend to 6 channels.

@ALL: I enjoy you are happy with the pulser. Unfortunately I am not an enlighted programmer. I will try to write a delayed channel program. But my wife once again is seriouisly ill and I have to assist her. So I can not plan any time for me nor for you all. So please excuse if my programming will delay or cease at all.
If anybody dares to program please PM me. I will explain how I imagine to do it.

@Nico: Are you still around? Please understand that just now we do not need MHz pulses. So it could be done by consecutive timer interrupts up to some lousy KHz. It should be easy for you to set up a simple program.

@ALL: I feel programming this bloody program is an essential link for further advance!
Thanks for all of you doing such amazing work in small and big scale! I enjoy your community! Our success is a MUST!
JS

[Cornboy 555]

Thanks JS.

Thanks John Stone, All the best whishes and happiness, to your wife and yourself.

Warm Regards Cornboy.

[IndianaBoys]

UFOpolitics,

You have set the pace and are leading in a good way!

Let no one derail your asymetrical train!

John Stone, sorry to hear about your wife.

This guy named Doc Sutter was a medic in Vietnam, after that became a second generation chiropractor. Then had liver cancer for 8 years and learned it was from the Agent Orange and parasites picked up in nam. He is now cancer free and healthier than ever. He has located some fundamental things to do to restore health.

Just ran across this today:

Feb 11, 2013 - 58 minute show.

Doc Sutter interview starts right after the 5 minute 43 second mark.

Doc Sutter tells about his background with Agent Orange and how he
detoxed heavy metal and parasites. He then shares, to Patricks amazement,
a liver flush with coca cola.

Link to download the MP3 file:
Chiropractic for Healing, Detoxing Heavy Metals | One Radio Network

Doc Sutters website:
DocSutter.com - The Natural Healing Paradigm :: The Paradigm Shift in Health Care

Best wishes,

IndianaBoys

[Cornboy 555]

Sparky.

Hello UFO, and all, as to brushes being soo 50's, i dont claim to have much electrical knowledge, but all the high power density, variable speed electric motors i have come across all use brushes, even if the power source is AC mains. Even electric trains, etc seem to use commutator and brush setups.

I still maintain, from the limited amount of experimenting i have done, that the electric spark at brush contact with commutator, is somehow a multiplier of the effect we are trying to produce and contain for use. I have read and believe that all Frequencies are available at an elecrtic spark.

Some of the old spark gap transmitters, i have read, could switch at 60 Megahertz Plus.

Just my two cents worth.

Regards Cornboy.

[Ace_Propulsion]

Torqmaster?

Hi UFO,

I just enhanced your TORQMASTER design just like your ENHANCED PENTA



All "M" connect together in parallel
All "G" connect together in parallel

Regards

Ace

[Ace_Propulsion]

Enhanced 3-pole

Hi UFO,

I used neodymium bar magnet as the stator



On DC motor WITHOUT enhancement:
As the moment you energize the coil it's C EMF cause REDUCED magnetic strength.And as the moment you denergize the coil it's C EMF cause INCREASED magnetic strength.(C EMF always oppose to the varying current)

On DC motor WITH enhancement

Both energize and denergize BOOST the motor

Cheers

[PixenMalke]

Hmmm, By the time I made the mods on the lithe motor, there was not enough shaft sticking out to connect anything to. So can't connect to another motor or run any kind of load. I now have three other little motors besides the modified one, so could do all kinds of things, but unless I can attach to the shaft of the modified motor, I am a little stumped. Can't even measure the rpm's. Does anyone else have a shaft that is sticking out at all? Any suggestions guys?

Dave

Hi Dave and others,

I had a similar experience with my first build but found a suitable solution.

Let's call the set of stuff that ends up as the asymmetric motor "keeper" and the set of stuff we pinch parts from the "sacrificial".

Since we are left with a few "spare parts" when we amputate the commutator from the sacrificial motor to add to our keeper motor, there also is the shaft from which that commutator was removed.

I simply tapped that sacrificial shaft out of its rotor (punching it through with a nail when it reached the top of the rotor).

Then I tapped the keeper shaft on the keeper rotor down into that rotor to half the depth of the keeper rotor.

This created space to insert and tap in the sacrificed shaft into the same keeper rotor and gave me heaps of shaft length at both sides of the rotor

Cheers, PixenMalke

[prochiro]

Welcome to our world of mis-fit parts

Welcome PixenMalke
I think at one time, when working on small RS motors, most of us have tried this. It will work only for small, low RPM motors. As motor run time increases. most of these have failed as shaft becomes unstable and wobbles into stators causing damage or low RPM. The only reliable way is to use a new one piece shaft. There are many places to get this type of shaft, like old printers and copy machines. The small diameter roller shafts will often be the correct size ore require only minimal drilling out of rotor. If you drill larger, remember that you must also enlarge the
bearing internal diameter also. Hobby shops that sell RC equipment also sell small diameter piano wire of similar sizes.

You mentioned that you did this on your first build. Tell us where you are at in your work here and feel free to ask for help if you need it.

By the way , to you and also onewsun who posted earlier.

Dana

[wantomake]

Learn as you build

Hey PixenMalke,

I built the RS motors first and as Dave stated there isn't any shaft left to use at all.

So I used this as a first step to learn with and then tried larger motors. I used next cordless drill motors, then went to use treadmill motors. The treadmill motor had room on the shaft for the extra commutator. I had a lot of different motors in my shop to try.

But you go through a process of learning with each build. At lest I did. Others here on this forum helped me so much are much more advanced at this than I am.

I still use my Ufopolitics motor for different experiments and some interesting results.

Happy experimenting,
wantomake

[Ufopolitics]

Radio Shack Shaft...

Hi Dave and others,

I had a similar experience with my first build but found a suitable solution.

Let's call the set of stuff that ends up as the asymmetric motor "keeper" and the set of stuff we pinch parts from the "sacrificial".

Since we are left with a few "spare parts" when we amputate the commutator from the sacrificial motor to add to our keeper motor, there also is the shaft from which that commutator was removed.

I simply tapped that sacrificial shaft out of its rotor (punching it through with a nail when it reached the top of the rotor).

Then I tapped the keeper shaft on the keeper rotor down into that rotor to half the depth of the keeper rotor.

This created space to insert and tap in the sacrificed shaft into the same keeper rotor and gave me heaps of shaft length at both sides of the rotor

Cheers, PixenMalke

Hello PixenMalke,

On the RS Motor,after unwind the original wires, I use a 1/2 Inch small socket (not deep required, but it will also do it) or whatever size socket that will fit exactly at the rotor poles outer 'shoulders', then press "gently" into a small bench Vise Grip, there are just a few mm to press, so you have room for second commutator, and still have enough shaft to add connectors, etc.

[IMG][/IMG]

Note how the brass lower bushing and part of epoxy came out clean.

Now the same socket procedure you could do on extracting commutator from "Sacrificed Rotor" just pressing to push the other side of shaft(opposite press to gain front shaft)...it separates comm. from shaft smooth, and easy out...

As I also encourage you to try My last Diagram here, related to straight (180º) five poles wiring.
I used 32 gauge (very close to original RS awg) and about 35-45 turns per coil in the Pair., should give you around 3.4-3.8 ohms between comm elements (Pairs)

To cut the original outer frame I recommend a Lathe, however, if you do not have one...you could use a bench press drill, grabbing motor by the rear bushing and marking-cutting with a steady file or Dremel cutting saw.

You could also use a socket that fits within both outer frame pieces to solder them together, I use a 175 Watts Iron, faster, better melting/fusion.

Regards and good building


Ufopolitics

[prochiro]

Monster pulser times four

Hello UFO
I have been messing around with the Arduino and found that it is vary easy to offset four or six pulses. First, let me describe what this does as I am not totally sure if this is what you want. I have four different pulses going off, one at a time, so that no two are on at the same time. My machine likes 30Hz so lets use that for starters but it is easily adjustable. For each one of those Hz, all four fire in turn, one at a time thus hitting all four inputs with a 25% duty cycle but actually hitting the machine 100% of the time somewhere. This should give us the 1/4 amp draw of doing all four at the same time but actually doing the same thing as all four full tilt. This would be 120 hits pf power instead of 30 and at 1/4 amps of the 30.
Is this what you are talking about. This actually works up to 14KHz if you want. One arduino will power four Monsters in there own order just the same.

Fire One -pause- fire Two -pause- fire Three -pause- Fire four -restart

It is actually in controlling this pause that you control the frequency. Please let me know if I am close or not.
Dana

[sampojo]

My 10-pole progress a little slow, question on Enh. Pent.

Struggling mightily on my adustable brush plate design, basic engineering probs. If a hole is too big the brush plate will be too weak... Tapping 4-40 holes in steel end plate, of course broke the tap Had to laminate slots with aluminum, just don't think there is enough plastic material there for any strength. so it goes. Get a new tap tomorrow. Got put the basic slots into the motor body, a 1/8" aluminum tube and cut my magnets yet too.

So Ufo, I haven't even started winding. I of course thank you for the Quad pentagon, for a 4 stator motor, that you made for me a couple weeks ago. Now on you enhanced pentagons winding in post 4484,
I notice it uses just a 2-stator design. Do you believe it would be as good a performer as previous 4-stator designs?

[warrensk]

new design

@ UFO,

I really like the new design...Wondering if it can be applied to a 20 pole or if I should stick to the torque master design. Currently trying to apply these motors as generators for running a tesla style oscillator in the form of a rodin coil. Been using the equations for resonance and have been getting some awesome results.

Warrensk