My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[JohnStone]

@machine - like your new board, I have 2.7 ohm resistors going to my gates - so your choice of 3 ohm should be great.

hitby13kw

@ALL
Please note that the gate resistors need to be adjusted to your very setups with original Battery, GNDs ..... Sorry for confusion. I posted it elsewhere but did not enter it in the doc
Sorry this matter is not easy.
If you want to get it dead safe use a 47 Ohm resistor initially. While testing check for heat bacaus switching wil be somewaht slower but relatively safe from spurious oscillations.
If you have a scope check for oscillations (gate, dource) when you drive a real resistor (not wound) or bulb. Check without gate resistors first in order to get a reference. After any edge they will possible be some percussions. Take a note of the frequency you found. It should be much more higher than the frequency your motor coil sproduce later on.

Check with resistors from 47 down to 3. Do not use a pot! Solder 50Ohm solder one additional inparallel (24Ohm), 3 in paralel ..... (metal film resistors preferred because they have no carbon winding below th paint) and look if the gate oscillations cease as much as possible.
The optimum resistor shold be as low as possible with smoothest gate signal.

Please note that a coil being connected as load will pump charge to the gate and make the gate somwhat oscillating with the natural coil frequncy. The genuine FET oscillations will have a much higher frequntry than your coil. Check again if you find teh genuine FET frequency. You might need a scope with 100MHz or more.


JS

[sampojo]

QP10 Assembled

Well here it is all bolted together and brush sets wired.


I have run only one brush set, and 2 brush sets in series, as the amperage has really jumped since all the loaded brush sets are really putting the brakes on it. The single brush set operation on 12v has jumped to 5a. In series the amps go to 3, but rpm drops a lot. All RPMs are significantly lower than with just one brush set loaded up.


I don't know what to do at this point to improve performance. To much tension on brush springs?
When rotating the shaft by hand, it is very stiff... Using bearings, no dragging sounds anywhere.

@Ufo, Any ideas?

[JohnStone]

....
I don't know what to do at this point to improve performance. To much tension on brush springs?
When rotating the shaft by hand, it is very stiff... Using bearings, no dragging sounds anywhere....

I like your setup!
You have bronze slip bearings right?
1. Check in disassembled state if the shafts turns smooth and easy in each of the bearings.
2.Check for preference between both shaft ends and the two bearings. Make sure the shaft part contacting the bearing is polished.
3. Check if slip bearings can change angle in respect to plate if you move/ tilt the shaft. They should move in order to align themselves to the shaft in assembled mode.
4. You can wear the brushes in by turning the assembled motor by a drill machine for some time. Check amperage before and after treatment. Repeat treatment up to no considerable drop in amperage. Mark the parts and their position. They should be assembled exactly the same after each disassembly.
5.Check for debris after wear in. Cleaning might be necessary including the gaps between commutator segment!!!!!! Else you might experience high amperage as pure loss. Check after cleaning with ohm gauge.
JS

[Cornboy 555]

End Float.

Well here it is all bolted together and brush sets wired.


I have run only one brush set, and 2 brush sets in series, as the amperage has really jumped since all the loaded brush sets are really putting the brakes on it. The single brush set operation on 12v has jumped to 5a. In series the amps go to 3, but rpm drops a lot. All RPMs are significantly lower than with just one brush set loaded up.


I don't know what to do at this point to improve performance. To much tension on brush springs?
When rotating the shaft by hand, it is very stiff... Using bearings, no dragging sounds anywhere.

@Ufo, Any ideas?

Nicely made there Sampojo, the only thing i can suggest other than what John Stone suggested, is to check that you have end float, in your rotor.

Very neat build there Friend.

Warm regards Cornboy.

[Ufopolitics]

Nice!

Well here it is all bolted together and brush sets wired.


I have run only one brush set, and 2 brush sets in series, as the amperage has really jumped since all the loaded brush sets are really putting the brakes on it. The single brush set operation on 12v has jumped to 5a. In series the amps go to 3, but rpm drops a lot. All RPMs are significantly lower than with just one brush set loaded up.


I don't know what to do at this point to improve performance. To much tension on brush springs?
When rotating the shaft by hand, it is very stiff... Using bearings, no dragging sounds anywhere.

@Ufo, Any ideas?

Hello Sampojo,

Well, first off, you have to fix the mechanical misalignment you have...like Cornboy555 wrote...you need shaft end play...and yes, brushes springs could be too tight...So, I suggest to release ALL springs off...and check it again...if it still does...then it is bearings/shaft/alignment...

Related to feeding, why don't you try our "typical" feed, or two Inputs at 180º Parallel...and see what you collect at other two in series...

Mechanical drag will definitively increase your amp draw.


Warm Regards


Ufopolitics

[sampojo]

forgot to mention

I also have a disturbingly low resistance between several of the "isolated" coils. it ranges from 100 to 500 ohms. I don't have the data on each comm segment, I was a little discouraged. Maybe that won't matter too much if I fix the drag? I really don't know where that low resistance is coming from. Guess I better find out... As John says, comm segment cleaning in order? Motor built from car window motors from the junkyard.

I had reasonably good looseness with just one the one brush set loaded and the only thing I felt when rotating by hand was the pulsing pressure of the magnets interacting with the rotor. I felt it should spin easier there too, though, with a little more coast.

I have skate board roller bearings though not slip bearings. I may have absolutely no play though, as I have plastic spacers between the bearings and the commutator. As Cornboy and John S. have indicated I will look to have a little play there. It could have some pressure on the inner ring of the bearing. The rotor shaft slips tightly though into the inner ring, so there cannot be much play felt by design when assembled.

John, the drill break-in sounds great. Wow, better get the notepad out to keep brush assignments the same. Guess that color coding will come in handy!

Ufo, spring tension def. seems to high, delicate operation to take out the tension, without ruining the spring? have to give it a shot...

[Cornboy 555]

Ohms.?

I also have a disturbingly low resistance between several of the "isolated" coils. it ranges from 100 to 500 ohms. I don't have the data on each comm segment, I was a little discouraged. Maybe that won't matter too much if I fix the drag? I really don't know where that low resistance is coming from. Guess I better find out...

I had reasonably good looseness with just one the one brush set loaded and the only thing I felt when rotating by hand was the pulsing pressure of the magnets interacting with the rotor. I felt it should spin easier there too, though, with a little more coast.

I have skate board roller bearings though not slip bearings. I may have absolutely no play though, as I have plastic spacers between the bearings and the commutator. As Cornboy and John S. have indicated I will look to have a little play there. It could have some pressure on the inner ring of the bearing. The rotor shaft slips tightly though into the inner ring, so there cannot be much play felt by design when assembled.

Hello Sampojo, do you mean Milli ohms, if so that is low, on the other hand if your readings are OHMS, that is extremely high, indicating you have a problem, with your windings or measurement.

Warm Regards Cornboy.

[JohnStone]

@sampojo
Pondering on the material of your motor casing: aluminum or steel?
Not sure what real effects arise? It was discussed but I forgot the issues. Any idea?
If you use ball bearings - they can not adjust to shaft. Hence a dedicated check shall be done without brushes in use. Preferred without magnets if possible.
JS

[prochiro]

@ Sampojo
I also remember what JS was wondering about with case material. Having steel case makes the magnet act stronger. In fact some of the smaller motors come with a sleeve of steel that goes over the regular case and this does give motor more power. Add this with the tightness possibly in all areas, no can go.
Dana

[Ufopolitics]

Resistance between comm elements

I also have a disturbingly low resistance between several of the "isolated" coils. it ranges from 100 to 500 ohms. I don't have the data on each comm segment, I was a little discouraged. Maybe that won't matter too much if I fix the drag? I really don't know where that low resistance is coming from. Guess I better find out... As John says, comm segment cleaning in order? Motor built from car window motors from the junkyard.

I had reasonably good looseness with just one the one brush set loaded and the only thing I felt when rotating by hand was the pulsing pressure of the magnets interacting with the rotor. I felt it should spin easier there too, though, with a little more coast.

I have skate board roller bearings though not slip bearings. I may have absolutely no play though, as I have plastic spacers between the bearings and the commutator. As Cornboy and John S. have indicated I will look to have a little play there. It could have some pressure on the inner ring of the bearing. The rotor shaft slips tightly though into the inner ring, so there cannot be much play felt by design when assembled.

John, the drill break-in sounds great. Wow, better get the notepad out to keep brush assignments the same. Guess that color coding will come in handy!

Ufo, spring tension def. seems to high, delicate operation to take out the tension, without ruining the spring? have to give it a shot...

Hello Sampojo,

That resistance comes from carbon deposits between comm elements slots/gaps, sometimes they could be cleaned up with some paper or other material to clean the spaces...other cases, when it is created by Radiant, it will be so hard impregnated that will not come out easy.

Motor was from a Junk Yard..so it had this...should have been cleaned before...

It is HIGH resistance, I know you meant , so it will not hurt operation...if it is LOW it WILL affect.

Plastic spacers/washers must be of hard material...otherwise will cause high friction.

Steel or aluminum casing will not create that much problems.

Did you try running 2 Input at 180 degrees?...What happens then?


Regards


Ufopolitics

[sampojo]

Reply to Ufo

I am used to seeing hundreds kilo- ohms between coils(or open circuit on ohm meter). My hundred ohm values are not great I presume but should give way to a good cleaning then.

The plastic washers touch no stationary component, butting up against the Inner ring of the roller Bearings and The commutator. Could be putting too much pressure there. Will down size them.

It's an aluminum casing.

Only ran Them in series, 3a, ~2.5 ohms. one brush set at 5a now. In parallel expect about 10amps. Power setup not ready to deliver Ten amps. Got a lot of Remedial work to do, Especially the spring tension.

Thanks everybody, a lot of great ideas. There's some hope yet!

[prochiro]

@ sampoje
With your attitude, there is not only hope but sure success in your future.
Dana

[JohnStone]

@ sampoje
With your attitude, there is not only hope but sure success in your future.
Dana

I strongly AGREE!
JS

[yxx3scbr]

ok so I just registered to see if I can be of some assistance. I work at Swiger Coil Systems. most of the pictures you have posted here was taken at my job. feel free to ask what you may, via my email yxxscbr@yahoo.com

the coils are made at swiger. there are typically 2 types of coils lap and wave. Laps require equalizers, where as wave do not.
there is also a difference between rotor vs armature. rotors are epoxy coated whereas our armatures are put into vacuum tanks where the VPI coating is pulled deep inside the armature twice.
The com nut is tightened several times through our process.
there are two types of shorts in armatures, a ground (where the coils make contact with the laminents, and a basic short where the coil is in touch with the coil next to it.
Armatures are very tricky in the wind, is your centerline correct? are you using kapton, nomax, glass tape between layers? are you testing before you start to ensure the problems are not in the wind? test mid way, make sure your coils are in correct order. the simplest mistake will cause a fail.

[Ufopolitics]

Hello to All/IMPORTANT

Hello to ALL,

This is an IMPORTANT ISSUE HERE!

I received an E-Mail (to my ufopolitics@gmail.com) about a very active Member here...Anoop, I don't know if some of you remember Him...But the fact is the following :

All of the sudden Anoop was not able to Log In into this Forum..??!!

I will Quote His latest EMail to Me below:

Hi UFO!

Thanks very much for your quick reply as usual! I am trying your suggestions for the motors.

Regarding Energetic Forum, I welcome your offer of assistance. I have not been able to login, nor have I been able to re-register. On the main page there is also no link to any webmaster. And I am unable to send a message to any forum member without logging in! I tried sending a message to Aaron via facebook, but no response. Possibly he did not receive or see the message.
If you could just forward this message for me to Aaron or any webperson in charge, that would be great. This situation has existed for many months now, but I have meanwhile been quietly following your thread. Luckily I still remembered your easy gmail address!

Best wishes,

Anoop

Now I am directing this Post to Aaron Murakami:

@Aaron or other Admin:

How could something like this be possible Aaron?...We will have to take some "Measures/Path/Solutions...In order that something like this will NOT Happen ever again!

Annop is a very active Member here, basically from my first Thread here to the latest one. And NEVER got involved in ANY Violation of Forum Codes/Rules or ANYTHING RELATED...¿?

Below I am uploading a Video of His Three Poles Combinations of Prime Mover-Generators...He sent it to me via an App/Box , I believe He lives in Eastern Europe...


ANOOP VIDEO ON THREE POLES - YouTube


I wonder how many more Members have gone through same Issues...but never contacted Us...?


Not good at all guys...Not Good!


Regards


Ufopolitics