My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Midaztouch]

Damaged UFO kit

@ all

Today was supposed to be the start of the AMEV1 race bike. I was very happy to finally get to open my box. It had been sitting under my desk for over a month. The big smile on my face, soon turned upside down because the parts were severely damaged. They used a hardening foam to spray inside of the box and placed parts on top of that. The foam protected the parts from outside damage. That worked Perfectly. The problem that they did not perceive was that the parts inside would still move around. They placed the commutators in a thin plastic bag together! Comms banged against each other the whole way to Japan. They had dents and cracks. The next bright idea, to save space, was to put the rotors at a 35° angle from the center of the outside rotor. Needless to say, outside rotor was completely destroyed by the inside rotor. To top things off, the loose commutators damaged the inside rotor.

At least one of the rotors and all of the commutators would have been damage free if they had wrapped each part individual in bubble paper.

Hey Ufo, not only will I be doing the racing department, I want to be in charge of complaints for shipping and quality control, this type of poor service is unacceptable! Heads would roll!

Keep it Clean and Green
Richie

[iankoglin]

@ all

Today was supposed to be the start of the AMEV1 race bike. I was very happy to finally get to open my box. It had been sitting under my desk for over a month. The big smile on my face, soon turned upside down because the parts were severely damaged. They used a hardening foam to spray inside of the box and placed parts on top of that. The foam protected the parts from outside damage. That worked Perfectly. The problem that they did not perceive was that the parts inside would still move around. They placed the commutators in a thin plastic bag together! Comms banged against each other the whole way to Japan. They had dents and cracks. The next bright idea, to save space, was to put the rotors at a 35° angle from the center of the outside rotor. Needless to say, outside rotor was completely destroyed by the inside rotor. To top things off, the loose commutators damaged the inside rotor.

At least one of the rotors and all of the commutators would have been damage free if they had wrapped each part individual in bubble paper.

Hey Ufo, not only will I be doing the racing department, I want to be in charge of complaints for shipping and quality control, this type of poor service is unacceptable! Heads would roll!

Keep it Clean and Green
Richie

G'day Richie
Really sorry to hear what happened it's a pity you never opened it when you received it.
When you purchased the motor did you speak to and purchase it from Dyann She has always been very helpful.
Please Email Dyann and tell her of what has happened and you are very disappointed KEEP YOUR COOL Take some photos and send them with the email BE PLESANT & KIND to her I am sure she will accommodate you If you had read all the posts you will see they have been pleasant to do business with all of us even though a few had something to complain about and mostly their packaging they will want to know so they can rectify future packaging.
If you come across heavy handed I think you will come off 2nd best

Kindest regards


Kogs trying to be helpful

[machinealive]

Midas, that's really a shame, we had lots of problems initially, then things got fixed, after we complained. I'm surprised they are still being so slack. Midas, if one of your rotors only has that little chip, then you could repair it with some resin, easy. But your other one, yea, it's toast. At least you have one to work on while you wait for return. They packed Dana's so tight after he sent his back, he had to work to get the parts out.

So, I finally was able to sit down and work on my build for a few hours. First I set up 4 Hg relays, and tried the new driver out. At 24 v, I found it worked best at a spot near 3 hz. RPM was about the same as 24 v linear, 1900.

Then I hooked up the motor straight to the driver board. I started at around 30 hz, sounded just like before, but this time as I turned the frequency down, the motor actually turned . It was only 12 v, again very low hz. At 12 v I cranked duty up and down, frequency up and down, and nothing fried, and the motor did turn. The fets were just warm.

[iankoglin]

Hello Kogs!


Yes you got it right...except that I have made a mistake in the winding sense of that Diagram, according to Positive start and Magnetic Polarity shown and Rotation displayed. BUT this is easy to resolve using My Right Hand Method...

[IMG][/IMG]

The way I did this (BOSCH Motor/BADSEY Scooter) is based on the "P-Series" Winding. So, Your T1-B1 would be your "P-1", negative and positive terminals, at Pair One...then from there you keep going into P2, P3...so on.

The Imperial Winding is a P28 also...so if you watch My Tutorials:

Asymmetrical Winding Part 1 - YouTube

Asymmetrical Winding Part 2 - YouTube

Asymmetrical Winding Part 3 - YouTube

As it will help you to get the right way to do this...same exact thing, except you are winding 20 poles instead of 28...

On the BOSCH I used 18 Gauge wire (awg), and did like 20-21 turns per Coil...42 total on Pair. Meaning, South-21 Turns, North 21 Turns.


A finer wire would not project a strong magnetic Field(not to high speed, not too strong Poweer (torque)...however, it will give you very low amperage draw...Your choice according to application there.

Kind Regards Kogs!!


Ufopolitics

G'Day and Thanks My friend
When you posted the pic I made my own notations as I studied it and now when I after all this time I was sure it seemed wrong Thanks for taking the time to inspect my understanding.
I will have the mods done to the motor this week my engineering Friend started today and when I was sure he exactly understood how the mods were to be done he altered the housing and said he will do the new shaft when I can come next

I want to complete this motor and see how to and setup my Arduino with my old computer
and when I have finished I will start on the P56 motors the first one to connect with my Mac Alte Gen and then the other 2 P56's wind one normal and one in reverse to run them shaft end to shaft end with a drive sprocket in between and power my Pulsar Q
My wife Jill is cracking the whip and she doesn't even have one she wants me to hurry up and keep up with everyone.

Thanks to John Stone, Dana. Hitby and all those working on these projects it runs very amicably every one involved is doing their bit to achieve success
Also thanks to Garry its a pleasure to have you on board I need to brush up on my programming skills I have never used C or similar I learned Cobol and programmed mostly in assembler/Machine language on a Computer Automation 16bit Machine but as you know Programming is programming no matter the language

Kindest regards my friend UFO and thank you again for starting these forums


Kogs Running to catch up

[Ufopolitics]

Sorry about damages Friend!

@ all

Today was supposed to be the start of the AMEV1 race bike. I was very happy to finally get to open my box. It had been sitting under my desk for over a month. The big smile on my face, soon turned upside down because the parts were severely damaged. They used a hardening foam to spray inside of the box and placed parts on top of that. The foam protected the parts from outside damage. That worked Perfectly. The problem that they did not perceive was that the parts inside would still move around. They placed the commutators in a thin plastic bag together! Comms banged against each other the whole way to Japan. They had dents and cracks. The next bright idea, to save space, was to put the rotors at a 35° angle from the center of the outside rotor. Needless to say, outside rotor was completely destroyed by the inside rotor. To top things off, the loose commutators damaged the inside rotor.

At least one of the rotors and all of the commutators would have been damage free if they had wrapped each part individual in bubble paper.

Hey Ufo, not only will I be doing the racing department, I want to be in charge of complaints for shipping and quality control, this type of poor service is unacceptable! Heads would roll!

Keep it Clean and Green
Richie

Hello Midaztouch,

I am really sorry for the damaged parts!...As am sure they will take care of this...the problem is the TIME...to "solve" the problems...

But, like Machine wrote...Inspect everything, and see what could you "save"...sometimes damages look bad...but they could be fixed, commutators cracked, forget it...need new ones, but the steel laminations could be straighten and re-epoxied (just on damaged areas, NOT the Whole thing)...and shafts...are so solid and heavy set...I know they can not be bent.

So, to fight against Time...have them send you Commutators in a separate and labeled FRAGILE small Box, Next Day, or Second Day...and make sure they wrap them really good.

Check with your Local Machine Shop guys...am sure they could repair and lathe the Rotors.
Are Magnets/Stators Ok?

And Calm down...it is the only way to do things great...

Any help, post here the pictures...and we will lead you in the right directions.

Regards

Ufopolitics

[JohnStone]

......
I use the Bifilar Winding. The pair of two parallel coil together have 90 turns of bifilar windings.....

.... But....when I connect the meter's terminals at the point that near the motor, means I wanna test the voltage between the motor input terminals, I connect the meter's terminals behind the capacitor band, near the motor. It reading more than 40V. If I reverse the meter's terminals, means positive to negative, negative to positive, it reads minus several hundreds of volts. And more, my other meter just went crazy, when the motor is running, the other multimeter just can't have a trustable reading, it reads about 18V at the power supply, and hundreds of volts at the motor. ....

Hi Ming,
WELCOME! I like your build. You did it very thoroughly! And you observed some very important facts.

1. Thanks for specifying the term "bifilar" to be parallel wound coils. There are several ways doing "bifilar" and we got some confusions in the past.

2. Regarding your meters going crazy and dispalying wired readings is often observerd. It is very important to look at this effect in order to not get confused. And I explain it not to you only but to ALL.

There are three causes I am aware of on why meters behave like you discribed.

1. - They are not built for these types of electric signal
2. - They are disturbed by strong electromagnetic interference from our setup
3. - There are some effects known by texbooks and these effects are true
4. - The cause is the occurance of radiant

Your experience with those meters touches basic misunderstandings. Please study my next post. I is important for ALL readers of this thread to understand.

JS

[Ufopolitics]

Am Glad!

Midas, that's really a shame, we had lots of problems initially, then things got fixed, after we complained. I'm surprised they are still being so slack. Midas, if one of your rotors only has that little chip, then you could repair it with some resin, easy. But your other one, yea, it's toast. At least you have one to work on while you wait for return. They packed Dana's so tight after he sent his back, he had to work to get the parts out.

So, I finally was able to sit down and work on my build for a few hours. First I set up 4 Hg relays, and tried the new driver out. At 24 v, I found it worked best at a spot near 3 hz. RPM was about the same as 24 v linear, 1900.

Then I hooked up the motor straight to the driver board. I started at around 30 hz, sounded just like before, but this time as I turned the frequency down, the motor actually turned . It was only 12 v, again very low hz. At 12 v I cranked duty up and down, frequency up and down, and nothing fried, and the motor did turn. The fets were just warm.

Hey Machine!

I am glad you've got "The Beast" finally turning!!...

I know from here...it will be an easy piece for you to get the ball rolling!!


Warm regards


Ufopolitics

[Lightworker1]

Hello Richie really very sorry to hear what happened to your rotors and rest of the imperial kit. Like as stated by Machine and Kogs things sometimes happen against our wishes.

Next step: How to fix it.
It happened to my shipment too. In my case I first lodged the complaint with the shipper (UPS in my case).
Keep all the damaged items including the box, packaging, etc. Keep detailed pictures of all the items.
The shipper may want to send an inspector to verify your complaint.

Also sent detailed report to Dianne with photos of the box with damage signs, damaged items, and your order number.
She and others concerned are very helpful. Also inform her that you also informed the shipper

Here is an example of my case.
Post #3100 (permalink) Report Post Old 12-17-2012, 11:44 PM

http://www.energeticforum.com/218954-post3100.html

After sometime, compensated imperial for the damaged shipment. I am pretty sure Imperial Motors have vastly improved their shipping techniques.
Please notice the rotors are pretty heavy items and imagine somebody dropping this box at docks even say from 1 meter height, the momentum gained will definitely rip apart normal packaging. I believe Imperial started putting FRAGILE LABELS on the shipping boxes.

I hope this post helps and you will be able resolve the matter ASAP. Good luck. I too will start working on the imperial kit soon.
Currently I am trying to complete testing of the dual UFOPOLTICS DUAL PENTAGON MOTOR.
Right now modifying the PSU to increase voltage linearly over a period of 1 - 2 minutes using an Arduino.
Also including current measurement function also using another Arduino.
I always post all the results and codes

Warmest regards all

Nameste

light

[JohnStone]

@ALL
Our friend Ming posted recently his observations on meters going crazy along UFO setup. I want you all to learn what can happen at such a setup. As many of you are newbies in electric and electonic matters I try to explain it as simple as possible. There are plenty of analogies in daily life.

Using meters touches basic misunderstandings sometimes. There are four causes I am aware of on why meters behave like Ming discribed.

1. - They are not built for these types of electric signal
2. - They are disturbed by strong electromagnetic interference from our setup
3. - There are some effects known by texbooks and these effects are true
4. - The cause is the occurence of radiant

Unfortunately all 4 causes might be true at same time and with different extent. I feel it to be very important to decern effects and their cause very thorougly. And at same time I want you all to know that I do not doubt at all the existence of radiant in our setups but we need to look at the whole picture. Radiant is not an alternative to textbook knowledge but an additional plane of truth - proving some notions out of textbooks to be wrong or partly wrong - but not all!

1. "- They are not built for these types of electric signal"
I posted some days ago some notions on how difficult it is for meters to display what we expect from them. It is easy to measure pure DC or pure AC as sine shape. It is still reasonable to measure square pulses. Any different singal from above is very dificult to measure and we need to know exactly what signal we have in order to predict right or erroneous readings. And maybe you know UFO Motors produce very complex signals. [Imagine you try to measure the hight of waves in ocean and you grab your caliper and enter the water.... ]

2. - "They are disturbed by strong electromagnetic interference from our setup"
Our meters we can buy are built conforming international standards expecting a certain amount of electromagnetic disturbance (EMC) in the environment. There are home grade levels and industrial levels predefined. The range measured is between 3 MHz and 2 GHz. While not exceeding these levels our meters were certified to display correct readings - given their input signal is inside their range of capability.
But what about exceeding EMC level? Our setups surely disturbe the environment much more than any commercial apparatus is allowed to. Test it by switching on a radio receiver in short wave band and search for the sound of your pusler. And the leads of your meter act as superb aerial - getting energy via air in order to get disturbed.
Therefore keep your leads SHORT (batt, cap, motor, meter) and use fat multistranded wire - much more than you calculate from mains distribution. Disturbance exits wires only if it feels uncomfortable in tiny low grade wires and terminals. Do not use simple alligator clips in power train.
And please be prepared that we will experience another grade of complexity if we get our setups on road - they surely will have need of suppressing unwanted EMC. [Imagine you try to write while sitting in a competition car on race...]

3. - "There are some effects known by texbooks and these effects are true"
If you run a motor Ufo type it will produce tons of complex signals as current and voltage and other flows of electric nature. You pissibly kan't imagine it but tehre can be for short time current withouzt voltage and vice versa -(thats's AC...). Those signals can be decomposed in a plurality of sine frequencies(fourier transformation) and we will detect that there are some components of very high frequencies. [Imagine a BOM from i.e. a car: It can be decomposed to single parts. Some occure only once and others many times] This notion is very importent in order to understand following facts.

You shall understand that a wire is defined by resistance only (OHM) for low frequencies only (below 10KHz). At increasing frequency it behaves like a coil (inductance) or capacitance - or all three at same time. That tells us it will possibly resist conducting high frequencies.

Same with capacitors. Electrolitic ones consist of a coil of wound sheets of insulated aluminum. Hence they will not like to accept high frequency - they block it - the higher the more.

Now let's go back to our motor producing all sorts of wired signal.
- First of all the wires do not like to let them path. [Imagine a wire to be a hole and frequencies are rubber jelly balls. The higher the frequency the more difficult to pull them through a hole being smaller than the balls.]
- Those high frequencies arriving the cap bank are not admitted and can not be stored there. They rove around and search for a pit accepting them.
- Eventually those undefined sets of caps, capacitance of wire, inductance of wire build tank circuits and we suffer on resonance effects additionally. And we know that resonant circuit can produce at any not expected place high current or high voltage.

4. - "The cause is the occurence of radiant"
Radinat effects are well known in textbooks - for sure. But they are not interpreted as such. Engineers apply all sorts of protecting devices in order to prevent surge and other kinds of overvoltage - some of them being of radiant provenience. Radiant is simply destroyed by very special and capable devices in order to get the circuits rid of any disturbing effects. [Imagine it alike pesticidal agents in agriculture]
In our setups we intend to grow up those radiant effects in order to make use of tem. Different from textbooks we do not want to discard them but to engineer them. And that is the point. There is no meter for measuring them. We can estimate the existence from interaction and conversion to known electrical values like voltage and current. We see radiant events as overlay to normal textbook events only.
But as we do not know exactly what radiant energy does in obscure places we are not prepared to exactly know what we measure, where and when. [Imagine cutting your hair yourself but you see yourself through 5 mirrors only].

----------------
What you red just before might be too complex for you just now. Don't care. You red it once and I will explain it again and again up to the moment you got it in your mind.
You misunderstood my intention if you feel I want to explain the impossibility taking measurements. Not at all. I want you to kow there is no replacement for knowledge on what we do here exactly in order to master it.
Do not be discouraged if you lag of reliable measruements. Be prepared to do it differently.
Prepare a reliable basis first: FAT stranded wires, SHORT wires, plus/minus stranded, add to cap banks a bank of ceramic capacitors, make meter wires short, strand them .....

Look at data sheet of your meters. Are they AC 60Hz only? They are 60 Hz if they do not write something else in data sheet. Do they mention any "crest factor" if not they are AC sine only.

Ufortunately there is no general advice on how to do it RIGHT. It depends strongly on your setup. But please be prepared that we will dicuss measurements here. And the knowledge spread above will help to understand and do it right.
JS

[sampojo]

Things to watch out for in C++

Kogs wrote:

I need to brush up on my programming skills I have never used C or similar I learned Cobol and programmed mostly in assembler/Machine language on a Computer Automation 16bit Machine but as you know Programming is programming no matter the language

Kogs Running to catch up

Hey Kogs et al

The sophistication of C/C++ can be a jumping off point from an old assembler programmer such as yourself. You will respect the key complexities of C to be its pointers and linked lists. All the complexity of C is contained in C++, with its key contributions being in the Object oriented (OO) realm. This is for large applications mostly, using tasking and "instantiating" tasks of structurally similar algorithms, which may use common modules (objects) of code internally but partitioning memory space to belong to specific application-oriented data types. I think these features are not used by Garry and he seems to be using it as a conventional procedural program, though, so I hope we do not need to worry about those features in the Arduino programs. The OO features are starkly different from conventional procedural programming and highly complex. When all of us OJT'rs of one engineering field or another may run across this in our studies, I think we can skip over it for the task at hand.

PS: Steering clear of linked lists and pointers is a good thing to keep in mind too.

[mo19841116]

Thanks Ufopolitics.

Hello Ming!

And welcome again. That is a nice Asymmetric Motor build!...I see you wanted Torque......and you've got it right?

That particular Design (Star of David) have basically Three Pairs of Coils...but in reality they are just Three Coils split on both ends of Rotor Core. And You have chosen to go Bifilar...that type reduces resistance and creates a much stronger magnetic field than a single wire winding...This brings some "Attributes/Properties" along...my friend...

First, since it is only three coils on this design...and you have not modified the Commutator, by widening-just a bit- the spaces between contact group of comm elements....it is normal that it gets a bit hot...plastic will NOT solve the problem. My opinion is to spread a bit the space between elements, and you should have only Three Spaces to work on each commutator.

Or Increase number of turns per coil...increasing resistance (by the way, it is important to read/tell Us your resistance per each Independent Pairs/Coils)

That Motor is very strong...and it unleashes Big Amounts of Radiant Energy ...Radiant will try arcing from one comm element to the other...or to ground...wherever SHE could jump to. And I recommend to be very careful with your meters...you definitively could burn them...they are NOT Designed to read that kind of Energy.

Strongly suggest to use Diodes, in order that you create a Path for HER to travel through...the same way We did in the other thread to the Static Coils...this time you connect them from your Input Brushes...Remember SHE travels REVERSE to your Normal "Hot" flow.

If You analyze the "Timing/Duty" on that particular Motor for each Coil...when feeding it linear from your Power Supply:

Your Motor have Three Pairs of Coils...simplifying it for understanding...just Three Split Coils...where ONLY ONE Coil is ON at a Time, based on One side Input only...right?...Therefore, Each Coil is running approximately at 33% Duty Cycle (100/3=33.3333)...That means Coil is On for a 33%...and OFF for a 66.6666%..of the Frequency given by whatever RPM's it runs at...remember from my prior Thread...that Radiant enters at the Off Times, reason why it Generates so much.

As you keep learning about this Technology...you will find that the more Pairs of Coils in the Rotor Design...the less the heating on the core...as also less Radiant Energy will be Generated in a "Surge" or High Discharge like you are doing now...

Symmetric Motors will not cause this "Jumping" on Meters...just because Radiant is killed before starting to develop....by the constant forced C EMF this Models produce...Therefore Meters will measure everything very "Normal" ...

Regards Ming


Ufopolitics

My dear friend Ufopolitics
In the one I built, each one pair have a resistance of 1 ohm. Today my RPM meter arrived. At 36V at input, no load at output side, it's up to 3509 rpm.
I think I understand what you said. Thanks very much my friend, and I will build another one ASAP, based on the improved 12-pole version, the one with 12 pairs of V-shape coils.
Except one thing, about the diodes. I used to think they should be at the output side. But you said it's the input side. Do you mean that I should Pulse the motor, the same way we did in the other thread to the Static Coils, just change the the coil with the motor, let radiant energy come out from input brushes at T-off time through diodes to a load?

Thanks again my friend, your works are amazing, I just don't know how to describe it with words.

Regards

Ming

[Ufopolitics]

Thanks Ming

My dear friend Ufopolitics
In the one I built, each one pair have a resistance of 1 ohm. Today my RPM meter arrived. At 36V at input, no load at output side, it's up to 3509 rpm.
I think I understand what you said. Thanks very much my friend, and I will build another one ASAP, based on the improved 12-pole version, the one with 12 pairs of V-shape coils.
Except one thing, about the diodes. I used to think they should be at the output side. But you said it's the input side. Do you mean that I should Pulse the motor, the same way we did in the other thread to the Static Coils, just change the the coil with the motor, let radiant energy come out from input brushes at T-off time through diodes to a load?

Thanks again my friend, your works are amazing, I just don't know how to describe it with words.

Regards

Ming

Hello My Friend Ming, and Thanks for kind words.

Related to Radiant coming out...

Picture this Motors as a super fast rotating water sprinkler...shutting streams of water at 360º...where water is Radiant...
Then We have this "collecting tubing's" called Brushes...where only "some water" gets through them...and we receive it at the other end...

Radiant comes out on the "way back" through your Input also...as well as your output (besides and REVERSED from the normal Hot Output)...so yes, Diodes go exactly the way we did on our first thread...at that static coil...this time they are Dynamic...that's the difference.

I set them static to "observe the effect better"...

Think of electricity as a fluid, just like water... my friend...and you will understand it better every day more...

Have You done this Test below?

[IMG][/IMG]

Please note that Diodes are BLOCKING Hot Flow, according to the way Polarity produces at Generating Output....then you read Electrical Flow with Meter...plus you will see HER (Radiant) the beautiful purple Plasma Ball...bouncing up-down on Neon Electrodes...

REMEMBER...Pulse Input very VERY LOW...do not go High , cause you could damage Meters and Neon...as you see more Orange light on than Purple...that is your HOT SPOT...then STOP there!

If You have not done this Experiment...please do it...and also do it on Input...same set up.

Please let Us know...Thanks!

Warm regards


Ufopolitcs

[iankoglin]

Hello Ming!


First, since it is only three coils on this design...and you have not modified the Commutator by widening-just a bit- the spaces between contact group of comm elements., ...it is normal that it gets a bit hot...plastic will NOT solve the problem. My opinion is to spread a bit the space between elements, and you should have only Three Spaces to work on each commutator.

That Motor is very strong...and it unleashes Big Amounts of Radiant Energy ...Radiant will try arcing from one comm element to the other...or to ground...wherever SHE could jump to.
Strongly suggest to use Diodes, in order that you create a Path for HER to travel through...the same way We did in the other thread to the Static Coils...this time you connect them from your Input Brushes...Remember SHE travels REVERSE to your Normal "Hot" flow.


As you keep learning about this Technology...you will find that the more Pairs of Coils in the Rotor Design...the less the heating on the core...as also less Radiant Energy will be Generated in a "Surge" or High Discharge like you are doing now...

Regards Ming

Ufopolitics

G'day UFO
I notice above your reference to widening the commutator gaps I remember that this subject was discussed some time back with reference to the Imperial P56 motors I looked for some time now and have not been able to find where the outcome of the discussion is. The Search engine on this Forum is not very helpful.
Please my Friend what was the outcome Should I widen the gaps between the comm. segments on the P56 motor and also should I do the same on the 1000 watt Chinese motor as it would be much easier to do it before I wind the armatures?
With the 1000watt Chinese modded motor I thought I might test running it with the Happy circuit motor before I setup the Arduino and that way I can see what the difference will be.
Kindest Regards and thanks again

Kogs still learning and trying to keep up

[Ufopolitics]

Nope, don't do it!

G'day UFO
I notice above your reference to widening the commutator gaps I remember that this subject was discussed some time back with reference to the Imperial P56 motors I looked for some time now and have not been able to find where the outcome of the discussion is. The Search engine on this Forum is not very helpful.
Please my Friend what was the outcome Should I widen the gaps between the comm. segments on the P56 motor and also should I do the same on the 1000 watt Chinese motor as it would be much easier to do it before I wind the armatures?
With the 1000watt Chinese modded motor I thought I might test running it with the Happy circuit motor before I setup the Arduino and that way I can see what the difference will be.
Kindest Regards and thanks again

Kogs still learning and trying to keep up

Hello Kogs,

Nope, do NOT do it to the Imperial or the Razor...they do not need it...this applies only to small number of poles machines...like the one Ming is working on...a Three Pair of Coils.

I did it on my Imperial, not much...but did not make such a great difference...Machine Alive also did it...

I mean, it does reduces a bit, the arcing...but really, that kind of work to do it...is not worth it...PLUS, You are risking to damage your nice Commutators.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[sampojo]

QP10 big improvement

-2.5A, 7000 rpm one brush set 12v
-two brush sets powered 12v, 8800rpm, amp draw on on brush set dropped to 1.4A, estimate around 3amps? Not even close to the old reading at 5amps one brush set.

Runs at 100-105degF, kinda hot to the touch. worried about ability to work, but should be OK with an amp drop with pulsing I hope, dropping the working temp too. Maybe run at a higher voltage if needed.

Loosened the brush spring tension another notch, just a gentle pressure, brushes just gliding on the commutator, not seeing any sparks so far.