My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Cornboy 555]

[QUOTE=Ufopolitics;239985]Hello Glen,

I did see all the pictures of the 33 Imperial Motors...and I believe it could be worked out to be a P33...and you are right...if a P17 and later on a P21...why not a P33?

Also Cornboy Three Pole suggestion seems to be very interesting...a 3 Poles with Four Stators...

Whenever I have a chance I will do the CAD work...it may be a bit weird (very asymmetric)...but let's see how it turns out...


Kind Regards


Hey UFO, and Glen, what i meant UFO, was to rearrange, the Permanent magnets to form one north and one south, just like a normal 3 pole, but i think, just grabbing 11 poles with one coil might not be strong enough.

Maybe there is a wiring method whereas you could interwind all 11 poles as one coil, to have a three pole?

Warm Regards Cornboy.

[GlenWV]

Hello Glen,

I did see all the pictures of the 33 Imperial Motors...and I believe it could be worked out to be a P33...and you are right...if a P17 and later on a P21...why not a P33?

Also Cornboy Three Pole suggestion seems to be very interesting...a 3 Poles with Four Stators...

Whenever I have a chance I will do the CAD work...it may be a bit weird (very asymmetric)...but let's see how it turns out...


Kind Regards

Ufopolitics

Greetings Mr. UFOPolitics:

Thank you so very much! I appreciate your help!

Take your time, I'm in no hurry now that I have motors to work with.

My thought in getting two of the same motors was to wind one as a PM and wind the other as a generator.

I don't know if a 33 pole armature can be wound for a generator. (But figure that you do!!) If not, then I have two PMs.

I have plenty to do in cleaning the PM armature and preparing it for winding, so you do not need to get into a hurry. When you get around to it is fine.

(Kogs!! JS!! See this?? Maybe I didn't mess up too bad after all.)

I promise not to get excited.

glen

[iankoglin]

Greetings Mr. UFOPolitics:

Thank you so very much! I appreciate your help!

Take your time, I'm in no hurry now that I have motors to work with.

My thought in getting two of the same motors was to wind one as a PM and wind the other as a generator.

I don't know if a 33 pole armature can be wound for a generator. (But figure that you do!!) If not, then I have two PMs.

I have plenty to do in cleaning the PM armature and preparing it for winding, so you do not need to get into a hurry. When you get around to it is fine.

(Kogs!! JS!! See this?? Maybe I didn't mess up too bad after all.)

I promise not to get excited.

glen

G'day Glen
Don't worry
There is only 2 ways to learn
First by your own mistakes
Second By someone else's mistakes they have already done the first sometimes several times
I'm the latter
Kindest Regards

Kogs thinking aloud

[Midaztouch]

New Sponsor & winding

@ Team UP

Got a New Sponsor today, EK Chain.,INC!

Winding is tough on the hands! I need gloves


Moving forward
Midaz

[JohnStone]

Hi Glen,
our warning was because we did not know your skils and willing for risks. But obviously you are the guy to handle that.
Are you sure you can crimp single massive wires? I tried it some weeks ago and it was possible only at excessive pressure and massive deforming of wire and crimp tube. It worked somehow but it was no vibrating setup!

Will it be possible to hard solder? If the solder contains silver component it will melt at less temperatures (500....600 °C depending on type). And please take in account it needs to be shock cooled in order to prevent leaving it brittle (just opposed to steel).
Just an idea!
JS

[machinealive]

Hey Cornboy

How about CRUSHER blue.

[Cornboy 555]

Hey Cornboy

How about CRUSHER blue.

Hey Machine, that's coooool, but made a good living for 15 years with Red, so has to be better.

Good Work, Friend. Cornboy.

[JohnStone]

Hi Machine!
What a fat beauty! And well dressed!
Soon she will purr contentedly under your hands.
JS

[machinealive]

Hi guys

I tried to log in today and it said my account has been suspended. I logged on with my daughters phone, I'm sure it won't last.
My plan was to do a 3 wire 2 phase, series and parallel resonant. Was also gonna try 3 phase wye wiring. I'm gonna try to have 4 different slip rings, to try different setups on the drum.
Also, managed to get fets doubled up, will be looking at Garry's program today.
If I get booted, UFO will get my vids to post if he wishes. Leave messages at my yt channel.

Machine

[JohnStone]

Same effect with "suspended account" happened to me this day. Those are the deep mysteries of technology and complex systems we have built. In the end we have not the knowledge to handle those systems we have built with the help of your knowledge. Unfortunately decentralized systems do not make real sense with internet - but for energyy generation we are after.
JS

[Ufopolitics]

Interesting Test.

Hi Guys

There has been some great progress on this thread, I have been waylaid by other events. But for us beginners a video of the asymmetric motor with a diode between the motor negative to positive and showing how via PWM the energy is recycled:

UFO Asymmetric motor with diode across input to output - YouTube
Kind regards

John

Hello John_G!, long time!

It is great to know you are making such nice tests...and yes...that is a very interesting spark...

What is also very interesting...is if you touch that wire lead to any motor ground or its outer body...it will also spark. even though there is absolutely no connection between body ground and either input or output terminals...

Thanks for sharing this video!


Warm Regards


Ufopolitics

[sampojo]

Baldor comm prob II

@sampojo
I am not sure of the temperatures that Loctite can handle but a screw would definitely need locking threads in addition to Loctite. I think that I would prefer the crimp connectors if you have adequate room. Vibration in any motor will loosen screws. Locking threads and Loctite should eliminate that problem like Dana said.

Cheers,

Garry

Thanks alot guys for all the thought you are helping me with. I can see a clean new commutator of this type as in the imperial motor if used as Ufo recommended, it would be mechanically re-usable. As our motors are experimental, it helps if component reusability can be maintained. With these punched commutators I think it is a safe statement that they are not amenable to disassembly. I suppose I could get them machined to re-establish the crease. I believe it must be endmilled, and I can only assume it would cost as much or more than to buy one new. I worry that enough commutator would be left behind. I don't think you can do it by hand either, trying to unbend the copper punch.

I like the idea of loctite, and the removable grade has a temp range 65-650F. If the comm gets this hot, fugettaboudit. I would put a small drop down the hole and still using a lock washer, a drop there too, but staying away from the contact area (but maybe that isn't necessary?)

I swear John Stone exhibiting some profound mechanical engineering here to go with his electronic engineering, but his is also talking about a technique I have considered as applicable to my problem too on crimping as Garry has suggested! Maybe John meant to say Garry?

Hi Glen,
our warning was because we did not know your skils and willing for risks. But obviously you are the guy to handle that.
Are you sure you can crimp single massive wires? I tried it some weeks ago and it was possible only at excessive pressure and massive deforming of wire and crimp tube. It worked somehow but it was no vibrating setup!

Will it be possible to hard solder? If the solder contains silver component it will melt at less temperatures (500....600 °C depending on type). And please take in account it needs to be shock cooled in order to prevent leaving it brittle (just opposed to steel).
Just an idea!
JS

I have not had good success with crimping and would want to look at hard solder, or gas weld. I have a lot of some low temp gas weld laying around, but I didn't think it had silver in it. I guess I should know bc I would remember the price? Have to see if I still have the label...

So Garry, you seem sure that a screw and a simple lock washer with a flat washer also, will not hold?

If I go this way, the locktite should seal the deal...

Can I get a Ufo concurrence?

Thanks a million guys.

[Ufopolitics]

Sampojo...Sampojo!!

Thanks alot guys for all the thought you are helping me with. I can see a clean new commutator of this type as in the imperial motor if used as Ufo recommended, it would be mechanically re-usable. As our motors are experimental, it helps if component reusability can be maintained. With these punched commutators I think it is a safe statement that they are not amenable to disassembly. I suppose I could get them machined to re-establish the crease. I believe it must be endmilled, and I can only assume it would cost as much or more than to buy one new. I worry that enough commutator would be left behind. I don't think you can do it by hand either, trying to unbend the copper punch.

I like the idea of loctite, and the removable grade has a temp range 65-650F. If the comm gets this hot, fugettaboudit. I would put a small drop down the hole and still using a lock washer, a drop there too, but staying away from the contact area (but maybe that isn't necessary?)

I swear John Stone exhibiting some profound mechanical engineering here to go with his electronic engineering, but his is also talking about a technique I have considered as applicable to my problem too on crimping as Garry has suggested! Maybe John meant to say Garry?



I have not had good success with crimping and would want to look at hard solder, or gas weld. I have a lot of some low temp gas weld laying around, but I didn't think it had silver in it. I guess I should know bc I would remember the price? Have to see if I still have the label...

So Garry, you seem sure that a screw and a simple lock washer with a flat washer also, will not hold?

If I go this way, the locktite should seal the deal...

Can I get a Ufo concurrence?

Thanks a million guys.

Hey Sampojo!!

My Friend...I can not believe such a great Asymmetric Motor Builder like you... are stock over a couple of tiny, weak wires...

How good are You with a Carbide small wheel...and a nice High Speed Dremel, with a Super Duper Universal Motor within?...

Move wheel not only cutting deep into gap, but also like sideways, ONCE INSIDE GAP...grinding wire material out...please, use Goggles and a Dust Mask!

Grind,cut up all those wires and at same time clean up the Commutator Gaps...if, in any event they go a bit wider because of disc cuts...just use a bigger gauge wire...and attach it to Coil wire...or use it like I did on Imperial, as "Top Rivets"..they never got loose ever...even at 9000 RPM's Plus...

After you are done need to "Resurface" that Commutator where the new wires would go...no lathe?...then file them up! (JUST at the wires and gaps, NOT where brushes ride!)


That would do my friend.


Kind regards


Ufopolitics

[Lightworker1]

Hey Cornboy

How about CRUSHER blue.

Hello @Machine it is a great looking machine. Looking forward to when you will take her for a spin.
To @Machine, @UFO, @All:
This I too was getting SUSPENDED MESSAGE some 12 hours ago.
I thought that's it, the day has come when one day the forum will disappear,
as UFO once said which possibly might happen.

I think website disappeared as there is also some discussion of Aaron's YouTubes gone. Now is the time to regularly backup.

I know UFO is soon going to possibly keep a copy on his website UFOPOLITICS

I was getting ready to post a video about The Practical Use of ACS712 Small Current Sensor using Arduino.

Then I went out of town. Hopefully it be there tomorrow.

Warmest regards

light

[prochiro]

Hello Sampojo
UFO is correct about the carbide. I have used it to cur copper bars. Now, put the rotor in a soft vice so it will not move. There are two thicknesses of blades, choose one. This requires no coffee which will make hands shake. Place dremmel in both hands and go slow, watch all angles of blade and softly set blade in and then out, not pressing hard enough to slow blade too much. Try blade on a piece of copper first to establish correct blade speed for copper. Hold firm and if you get thrown out of groove, press less and settle down some. After the first one, your on your way. Whats the worst that will happen, you cut wrong and learn how to do it better for next time.
Dana