My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[iankoglin]

@ all

I sanded the rotor today with an air gun sander. Is this ok?

Midaz

G'day Midaz
Sand blasting removes material fast
I would mot have used sand blasting
On peeking at your photo it looks like the sand may have damaged some of the insulation on the windings near the laminations You will find that sand will find its way into every nook and cranny and when using air to clear it away it will probably work the sand further into the windings and later probably wear away the insulation

I am looking forward to see you/your bike over the finish line FIRST and in one piece.
Please what size wire did you use and How many turns?

Kindest regards

Inspector Kogs thinking ahead

[Midaztouch]

@ Kogs

I used an air gun connected to a sander drill. It's a hand held sander the size of a 6" ruler. I don't think I damaged the wires. What you see is the insulation paper and dust. I did the sanding until midnight then drove home. Tired! I will inspect the wires for damage today.

I used 18awg at 14 turns.. I could have used 15 turns

Some maybe good news.... The retired CHEIF of R&D from Panasonic came by to pick up his parts. The boss brought him to me. We talked for 15 mins. I told him about our system and we need a Lithium Battery sponcer. He said my project is interesting and wait and see.

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[Midaztouch]

Success

Team UP!

Radiance has a heart beat! She's alive!

Kogs, first I inspected her wires. All ok! Then put her together. Shocked her with 12volts @ 6amps lead acid battery. She moved

Must find the pro shop for coating and balancing!


Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[Midaztouch]

Cw & Ccw

@all

She spins clock wise. Motorcycles need counter clock wise. Can I make adjustment to get her to spin counter clock wise? Change battery terminals?

After all of this hard work winding this special motor, I don't want to damage anything, YET!

Keep it Clean and Green

Midaz

[prochiro]

Midaz
You are a funny guy.

If motor ran clockwise, you reverse the Field connections to get counter-clockwise rotation. Yes, do it and smile.
Dana

[Midaztouch]

Midaz
You are a funny guy.

If motor ran clockwise, you reverse the Field connections to get counter-clockwise rotation. Yes, do it and smile.
Dana

Dana!

Of course I've already done it! At the time of the post I was so nervous and excited that I didn't want to want to take a chance! I needed a while to calm down! Once we find a balancing shop and varnish/resin, we will spin her up with stronger batteries!

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[Ufopolitics]

Beautiful Machine!

Dana!

Of course I've already done it! At the time of the post I was so nervous and excited that I didn't want to want to take a chance! I needed a while to calm down! Once we find a balancing shop and varnish/resin, we will spin her up with stronger batteries!

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

Hello Midaz,


Lovely!...works like a charm!...I see you have used exactly same spec's as I have directed..18 awg and 14 turns...Your Radiance will be very powerful...try with some bigger batteries, say 35 amps/hour, and try different sets like 12, 24, 36 and 48....then you will really see torque and speed...while monitoring the battery draw......PLEASE, make sure to hold Her tight to bench.

Much work you could do in a bench, before mounting it on bike...that would dictate your "perfect set up".

Make sure to get the BEST Timing in your Set:

[IMG][/IMG]

Please note... that the closer you get the center of each Coil (Bisectors) to the dead center of stators...WITHOUT passing to other side...at the moment they get energized by Brush to corresponding Commutator Element Contact...the Fastest and Stronger Radiance will be.

Here I am using as reference P1 and P15...but you could use any seen Pairs as long as You have marked their corresponding comm elements.

Also do a contact test:

Set a Continuity Meter on just One Input Gate...then start spinning shaft by hand, to hear the beep...then move slowly to next (you should hear beep goes weak to off for a bit...then solid beep again...that's next Pair)...and so on...you should have all 28 Pairs/28 Beeps tested.

I would love to see Her running on higher Voltage...say 24 or 36 volts with 35 amps...


Nice work friend!


Warm regards


Ufopolitics

[ajaya999]

Hello Kumar,

Namaste...I see You...

Tell Your Son I love him...He knows, kids have such clear minds...they could see where we can not...just because we are filled with lots of noise we acquire during our lifetime on this planet...

Related to your 15 poles motor/Two Stators:

Fifteen is divisible by Three, and as long as Five Poles Area are about the same area of One Stator or greater...You could be making a very powerful Three Poles Machine. This winding would be the simplest to build for you as a beginner, and yet very strong and fast.

Now, how many elements does commutator have?...Thirty?...or Fifteen?...If 30, then you could join every ten elements together, if 15 then just five...and...Do you have an extra commutator and set of brushes?...or a second motor to use as parts?

Do you have enough room at shaft to add the second commutator?

It should have (for two stators) two brush set at 180º from stators bisectors (Typical Symmetrical setup)

Could you take a couple of pic´s from above and sides of motor without the brush cap?

The other way to wind it would be as a P15...or Fifteen Pairs of Coils...but that would be a bit more complicated...and I will have to set it on CAD...and will be a while...no time right now...as I still working on a 33 poles for another member here.


Warm regards and Namaste


Ufopolitics

Dear Sir,

Namaste. Sorry for giving you my motor info in bits and pieces. This happened as I am inexperienced in this regard.

I bought it only for the purpose of doing this replication and to go further progressing towards development.

Originally it was delivered with only one commutator with 60 elements and one pair of brushes (positioned in such a way touching the commutator from sides in horizontal position where as stator coils are located on the top and bottom of the motor body in horizontal position.).

I bought from the same manufacturer another set of brushes and one more commutator (same as the one fitted in the motor - with 60 elements). There is enough space on the shaft to fit the commutator, if the fan is removed. I removed the fan and fitted the other commutator and the other pair of brushes.

Now the motor is with 2 commutators with 60 elements each, two pairs of brushes, two stator coils occupying the upper and lower semi circles of the motor body. armature is 15-P. armature coil gauge is 23 swg. coil turns are 300.

The armature was wound with 4 wires as a set sitting in each pole (with 5 turns). so 15 poles X 4 wires = 60, ends going into 60 elements of the commutator.

The total turns are 4 wires set in each pole X 5 turns X 15 poles = 300 turns.

Regarding the area of 5 poles and one stator coil, i am not aware sir whether it is covering the stator coil area. I will check it and come back to you tomorrow as i am not well today to remove the cover etc to check it back.

Dear Sir, I am very much new to this. And in fact I am a Quantitative Research Specialist, having morbid obsession and a strong belief towards generating free energy or at least very very low cost energy. I dreamt of becoming a researcher in physics. I was very strong in physics for the first 12 years of my education. But couldn't make it. Now I'm an accomplished QR professional. And I'm able to pull my time towards this area, which had been a dream for the last two decades.

Thanks for the petro cartel for leaving a room for me to do something even after two decades.

Dear sir, please help me in designing.

Regards and Namaste

Kumar

[Ufopolitics]

Lithium and BMS...

@ Kogs

I used an air gun connected to a sander drill. It's a hand held sander the size of a 6" ruler. I don't think I damaged the wires. What you see is the insulation paper and dust. I did the sanding until midnight then drove home. Tired! I will inspect the wires for damage today.

I used 18awg at 14 turns.. I could have used 15 turns

Some maybe good news.... The retired CHEIF of R&D from Panasonic came by to pick up his parts. The boss brought him to me. We talked for 15 mins. I told him about our system and we need a Lithium Battery sponcer. He said my project is interesting and wait and see.

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

Hello Midaz,


Make sure the Lithium Batteries Sponsor also could provide the BMS (Battery Monitoring/Management System) for the whole pack.

Flux Power · 72V Battery Management System Module

The BMS is VERY important for this set up...as it will only disburse power from the batteries that are higher charged during the race....while the lower ones would be "jumped"(ignored) to next ones. This BMS process also works at time of charging, charger will be guided by BMS mainly to lower batteries, ignoring the ones already charged...or with higher charge...it is a Balancer for draw and charge.

Latest BMS are a very small box, with several cables to each cell...then each cell would have an electronic circuit mounted between each cell poles.

Electric Motorsport EV Parts

However, I am sure the Sponsor should provide the BMS and Charger as part of the whole Battery System...that is part of ensuring the Batteries life and performance...and am sure they want to show their batteries at best performance...


Warm regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Dear Sir,

Namaste. Sorry for giving you my motor info in bits and pieces. This happened as I am inexperienced in this regard.

I bought it only for the purpose of doing this replication and to go further progressing towards development.

Originally it was delivered with only one commutator with 60 elements and one pair of brushes (positioned in such a way touching the commutator from sides in horizontal position where as stator coils are located on the top and bottom of the motor body in horizontal position.).

I bought from the same manufacturer another set of brushes and one more commutator (same as the one fitted in the motor - with 60 elements). There is enough space on the shaft to fit the commutator, if the fan is removed. I removed the fan and fitted the other commutator and the other pair of brushes.

Now the motor is with 2 commutators with 60 elements each, two pairs of brushes, two stator coils occupying the upper and lower semi circles of the motor body. armature is 15-P. armature coil gauge is 23 swg. coil turns are 300.

The armature was wound with 4 wires as a set sitting in each pole (with 5 turns). so 15 poles X 4 wires = 60, ends going into 60 elements of the commutator.

The total turns are 4 wires set in each pole X 5 turns X 15 poles = 300 turns.

Regarding the area of 5 poles and one stator coil, i am not aware sir whether it is covering the stator coil area. I will check it and come back to you tomorrow as i am not well today to remove the cover etc to check it back.

Dear Sir, I am very much new to this. And in fact I am a Quantitative Research Specialist, having morbid obsession and a strong belief towards generating free energy or at least very very low cost energy. I dreamt of becoming a researcher in physics. I was very strong in physics for the first 12 years of my education. But couldn't make it. Now I'm an accomplished QR professional. And I'm able to pull my time towards this area, which had been a dream for the last two decades.

Thanks for the petro cartel for leaving a room for me to do something even after two decades.

Dear sir, please help me in designing.

Regards and Namaste

Kumar

Hello Kumar,


I will help you on this design. BUT...I need "data"...I need pictures of motor top with brush cover removed, in order to see stators expansion and armature poles.

So, you have wound stators, not permanent magnet stators...then we need motor Voltage/Amperage specifications. In the first stage of conversion, I would like to leave stators the way they are...same coils...then you would have to supply same spec's (Voltage) Input.

Structure wise you already have everything ready to be mounted and enough room...that's great!

Because of the 60 elements commutator and 15 poles rotor configuration...this motor was designed to perform in Symmetry at High Torque/Lower Speed (RPM's)...Normally IF Commutator matched the same number of poles would be the opposite...a fast but low torque motor...

Waiting to see your pictures.


Warm regards


Namaste



Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

For Bikes Enthusiasts...

Hello to all,


For the Motorcycles and Electric Bikes Enthusiasts, I have found a nice place to put together your project:

[IMG][/IMG]

Electric Motorsport EV Parts

In the first/upper page part, they offer a "Rolling Chassis/Body Motorcycle"...it needs the "Power Train" and the BMS side...and as you scroll down you will see all "alternatives".

Fortunately for Us...The Five Motor Alternatives are ALL based on Brushed/Permanent Magnets...I know, prices are very high...

Scrolling down you will see all batteries "packs" or "Combo's" alternatives...

We could put together a Bike going over 100 MPH here...not considering our Asymmetric Conversions...

Advantages I see are:

1-A Chain Direct driven Bike...NOT based on Brushless Hub Motor Drive, which would require higher modifications to adapt.

2- Rolling Chassis/Body have everything already there...except Motor/Controller/Throttle and Batteries...for only 2500.00 USD
We have Quad Pulsers Controllers...and our Imperial Beast to drive it...

3-We could find other sources to BMS and Batteries if this ones are too expensive.

Disadvantages:

I see the bike frame a bit weak tubular chassis...never compared to a real Gas Motorcycle...that is why I chose to buy a 900RR CBR......nevertheless this way would be a harder one to adapt than this ready body/chassis.


Nice place Uh?



Warm regards



Ufopolitics

[JohnStone]

UFO, MIDAZ,
just now I do not feel comfortable with higher voltage because of voltage spikes. I'll explain:

• In our configuration spikes add to the battery voltage.
• Spike voltage is related to the current just befor switch off and not to voltage.
• At higher voltage we get much higher current befor switch off.

We are restricted to abput 500V (batters voltage + spikes) because of FET specs.Soon I wil continue measurements and hopely can can qualify it for higher voltages.
JS

[Ufopolitics]

Hello John,

UFO, MIDAZ,
just now I do not feel comfortable with higher voltage because of voltage spikes. I'll explain:

• In our configuration spikes add to the battery voltage.
• Spike voltage is related to the current just befor switch off and not to voltage.
• At higher voltage we get much higher current befor switch off.

We are restricted to abput 500V (batters voltage + spikes) because of FET specs.Soon I wil continue measurements and hopely can can qualify it for higher voltages.
JS

Hello John,


Thanks! as I understand the High Voltages drive...could we get the reversed spikes and re-route them through diodes at each channel/gate in order to redirect them from going back to Controller or Battery Bank?

I know this way will not guarantee a complete clean up from 100% spikes...but, a high percentage?

Maybe sink them into HV Caps...


Just a fast thought...


Warm regards


Ufopolitics

[JohnStone]

...Tcould we get the reversed spikes and re-route them through diodes at each channel/gate in order to redirect them from going back to Controller or Battery Bank?
....

Sure! But then current continues to flow and I am afraight we kill radiant effect. Any advise availale?
We could decide to allow 500V and drop excess voltage only to batteries - like waves swapping over a dam.
JS

[Ufopolitics]

Midaz Bike...

Sure! But then current continues to flow and I am afraight we kill radiant effect. Any advise availale?
We could decide to allow 500V and drop excess voltage only to batteries - like waves swapping over a dam.
JS

Hello John,

On Midaz Bike running with that Imperial...I am pretty sure He would not need over 72V and 100ah LiPo Battery Bank.

The "most" I could think off...would be a 96V Bank...but I don't think it would need it honestly.

Warm regards


Ufopolitics