My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[SisMika]

OH, did I say you abandoned this thread? I am sorry. I should have said that ALL your followers have abandoned this thread because ALL their motors turned out to be failures. Sorry for the misstatement of facts.

[SisMika]

On a final note...I have NOT abandoned this Thread at all, I just discover something that will change forever the way we look at the main roots, the basic fundamentals that rule every single Electrodynamic Machine in the World...MAGNETISM

WOW!! You must be a lot older than I thought. I believe magnetism was discovered thousands of years ago. So in addition to discovering magnetism you must have also discovered the fountain of youth. After you share your great wisdom about magnetism with us can you also share your secret for living thousands of years? PLEASE!

By the way for someone of your age you should know how to use the English language properly since you like to criticize others. You should have said "I discovered". Saying "I just discover" is not proper grammar.

[SisMika]

And WHO ARE YOU?

Let's just say I am NOT the person that convinced a lot of other people to waste hundreds of dollars on a failure. OH, right, you say your motors are not a failure. Then show me just one that does what you claim.

[arch chicken]

First of all to UFO......thank you sir.....the technology you disclosed allowed me to start a small business in converting bicycles in to electric cycles run by your motors....please do not be discouraged by ones such as this jack@ass sismicka or some such as he....
It has always been my experience than the visionary is ridiculed and made out to be a fraud by idiots with nothing better to do....please keep up the good work as there is a large following here in south Africa that is rooting for you sir!!!!

[Ufopolitics]

First of all to UFO......thank you sir.....the technology you disclosed allowed me to start a small business in converting bicycles in to electric cycles run by your motors....please do not be discouraged by ones such as this jack@ass sismicka or some such as he....
It has always been my experience than the visionary is ridiculed and made out to be a fraud by idiots with nothing better to do....please keep up the good work as there is a large following here in south Africa that is rooting for you sir!!!!

I am very glad of your progress my friend!
Thank you very much for posting it here...and Don't worry about the trolls...or the paid shills...is all part of their "job" ...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[jazzzyro]

Hello and thanks Jazzzyro!

You will have to give me more details about your motor to be modified...like length of stator's housing and length of rotor assembly. Some motors have a pretty long casing that don't need much modification...others don't...so you have to measure the armature/rotor length versus the casing length and see if shaft will allow for the second commutator.


Regards


Ufopolitics

Hello again,
I am planning to use a motor similar to the Bosch 700W you used already. I noticed that you soldered a second part of the housing (probably adapted from a second motor jeopardized in order to adapt the principal one). What kind of soldering did you use? Simple flux? or a stainless steel solder? I guess that must be someting strong enough to resist to the motor torque.

How do you fix the second commutators ring? by pressing? by sticking with some glue?

What tools do you use for these conversions? Probably a small video about the tools you use for these conversions would be helpful for many. For me, for sure!

Once again, a big thank you for all your efforts and investments! You are very inspiring for me and gives me a BIG TASTE to go ahead with replications from your work.

I am planning to make a fist conversion with a smaller motor (say 500-700W) and later to convert one to be used for an electric car. What symetric power motor do you recommend to be converted to asymmetric, in order to move easily a medium car?

Thanks a lot!

Best regards!

J.

[DadHav]

First of all to UFO......thank you sir.....the technology you disclosed allowed me to start a small business in converting bicycles in to electric cycles run by your motors....please do not be discouraged by ones such as this jack@ass sismicka or some such as he....
It has always been my experience than the visionary is ridiculed and made out to be a fraud by idiots with nothing better to do....please keep up the good work as there is a large following here in south Africa that is rooting for you sir!!!!

Hello Arch, That could be pretty good news. If I understand your statement, you are manufacturing a bike to electric bike conversion and using motors based on the asymmetric designs posted on this thread? If you are doing this there would be a lot of people who would like more information about your motor conversion. If you have something that is tested and an improvement over the standard OEM it would be very kind of you to share some information.
John

[Ufopolitics]

Hello again,
I am planning to use a motor similar to the Bosch 700W you used already. I noticed that you soldered a second part of the housing (probably adapted from a second motor jeopardized in order to adapt the principal one).

Great Motor Jazzzyro!

That is correct, I had to cut just a "ring" off from the "sacrificed" motor housing, once that I did all the correct measurements from armature clearance with second commutator already mounted.

What kind of soldering did you use? Simple flux? or a stainless steel solder? I guess that must be something strong enough to resist to the motor torque.

It was welded with a wire feed MIG Welder, but before you go full welding, just tack it (spot weld) in like four spots evenly apart so you could check free spinning with just small shaft play and rectify any adjustments.

How do you fix the second commutators ring? by pressing? by sticking with some glue?

By pressing commutator very evenly, so try to find a socket that seats preferably on the closest , metal if available at the closest end near shaft.

Never press commutator at outer copper elements, nor at the outer mica (insulator)

What tools do you use for these conversions? Probably a small video about the tools you use for these conversions would be helpful for many. For me, for sure!

I used shop air tools, but it could be done with just electric ones, like die grinders (carbide cutting disc) and angle grinders, to even metal/welds out...plus all the required fasteners drivers, vise grips, players, etc,etc . There is actually not much to cut and grind...and if you are good with hand tools, like hand saw and files it can be done as well...only thing is will take you longer to complete.

The procedure must follow first to get all mechanical work done before starting to wind it, like putting together first rotor and housing with magnets mounted to check for binding or some rubbing because off center etc...

Once again, a big thank you for all your efforts and investments! You are very inspiring for me and gives me a BIG TASTE to go ahead with replications from your work.

My pleasure.

I am planning to make a first conversion with a smaller motor (say 500-700W) and later to convert one to be used for an electric car. What symmetric power motor do you recommend to be converted to asymmetric, in order to move easily a medium car?

Thanks a lot!

Best regards!

J.

I would recommend Imperial P56...but unfortunately the UFO Kit that we put together a while is no longer available at the very low prices we negotiated. Now a third party "new negotiator" got in the middle and charging a stiff profit which I consider is too much.

A few pages back you will find the info, as I believe someone here was selling one of them.

Good luck and please share back your progress.


Thanks and regards


Ufopolitics

[jazzzyro]

Great Motor Jazzzyro!

That is correct, I had to cut just a "ring" off from the "sacrificed" motor housing, once that I did all the correct measurements from armature clearance with second commutator already mounted.



It was welded with a wire feed MIG Welder, but before you go full welding, just tack it (spot weld) in like four spots evenly apart so you could check free spinning with just small shaft play and rectify any adjustments.



By pressing commutator very evenly, so try to find a socket that seats preferably on the closest , metal if available at the closest end near shaft.

Never press commutator at outer copper elements, nor at the outer mica (insulator)



I used shop air tools, but it could be done with just electric ones, like die grinders (carbide cutting disc) and angle grinders, to even metal/welds out...plus all the required fasteners drivers, vise grips, players, etc,etc . There is actually not much to cut and grind...and if you are good with hand tools, like hand saw and files it can be done as well...only thing is will take you longer to complete.

The procedure must follow first to get all mechanical work done before starting to wind it, like putting together first rotor and housing with magnets mounted to check for binding or some rubbing because off center etc...



My pleasure.



I would recommend Imperial P56...but unfortunately the UFO Kit that we put together a while is no longer available at the very low prices we negotiated. Now a third party "new negotiator" got in the middle and charging a stiff profit which I consider is too much.

A few pages back you will find the info, as I believe someone here was selling one of them.

Good luck and please share back your progress.


Thanks and regards


Ufopolitics

Thank you very much Ufo!

Some more questions:

1. how do you align the two commutators rings one with another? Do you use a specific tool?
2. do you remove magnets when soldering "the ring" of housing? I know that heat may damage the permanent magnets.

Please let me know if you finalize the discussions with the "new negotiator" regarding the Ufo motor kit. I am interested in buying a kit.

A BIG THANK YOU!

Regards,
Jazzzyro.

[SisMika]

Jazzzyro,

Maybe you should watch this video and read the comments before you waste a lot of time and money on a fantasy motor.

https://youtu.be/zQ7G54PzyKM

[wantomake]

Many thanks

Ufo,
Thanks for this thread and great heart that you have in giving us this revelation and all the hard work you put into it.

I enjoyed replicating the 3,5, 7 slotted and especially the large old car generator that was very educational and still waiting for more experimenting.

There is always more to a replication than just numbers,results, more out than in. It's about trying to improve the world around us by finding an alternative power. I enjoy this device and strange anomaly I saw up close building and testing.

Many thanks ole friend,
wantomake

[sampojo]

Question on coil operation and BEMF in asymmetric motor

Hi Ufo,

Hope you check in and see this. I have a question on the transition phase between the charge or on cycle to the disconnected phase of a coil in these motors.

As a coil hits a powered brush set, the current and voltage flow into the coil to give it the power stroke. The coil is acting as a sink to the battery current.

When the coil rolls off the brush set, getting completely disconnected from the battery, this would trigger the BEMF reaction in the coil at this point, but since it is disconnected here, the battery never has to fight the BEMF as in a symmetric motor.

I am trying to understand what mother nature is doing when the BEMF is triggered on a coil. I have a friend, an ex nuke sub electrician, who is trying to school me. He says the coil at this point tries to keep the current flowing in the SAME direction by now acting like a battery source by discharging the coil's fields until about 5 time constants later it is collapsed. In this operation, the fields are now REVERSED.

Another possible interpretation is the current and voltage polarity become is reversed to reverse the fields.

Do you know what happens with all your testing, especially on the other "My Motors got me..." thread? Maybe I need to do your examples there...

TIA

Sam

[Ufopolitics]

Hi Ufo,

Hope you check in and see this.

But of course my friend...I always "check in"...

I have a question on the transition phase between the charge or on cycle to the disconnected phase of a coil in these motors.

As a coil hits a powered brush set, the current and voltage flow into the coil to give it the power stroke. The coil is acting as a sink to the battery current.

When the coil rolls off the brush set, getting completely disconnected from the battery, this would trigger the BEMF reaction in the coil at this point, but since it is disconnected here, the battery never has to fight the BEMF as in a symmetric motor.

Yes, that is correct...so far.

I am trying to understand what mother nature is doing when the BEMF is triggered on a coil. I have a friend, an ex nuke sub electrician, who is trying to school me. He says the coil at this point tries to keep the current flowing in the SAME direction by now acting like a battery source by discharging the coil's fields until about 5 time constants later it is collapsed. In this operation, the fields are now REVERSED.

Your friend explanation is "quite correct"*...it is based in the "Classical Explanation" he has learned in school.

Now, the Classic Explanation says:

When Coil is disconnected from source, the current tries to keep being "CONSTANT"...so it REVERSES its flow "trying" to prevent for magnetic field to collapse (and here we could add that current is so smart...it has almost an "artificial intelligence......by not allowing field to collapse.)
But the main FACT here is that whenever Current DOES REVERSE, it brings as a Consequence that the Coil Terminals Voltage also REVERSES, so, where there was the Positive Coil Terminal, NOW is negative...and viceversa...the Negative before, NOW is Positive.

The above swapping of Voltages is a FACT, is REAL, and it is the main reason why the Boost/Buck as the SEPIC Inductor's Converters work...as it is thanks to this V Reversal that electrical flow through the Gate Diode to Output Caps takes place.

Another possible interpretation is the current and voltage polarity become is reversed to reverse the fields.

YES, exactly what I wrote before...Voltage reverses at the Coil Terminals, due to Current (I) trying to keep Constant to avoid Field Collapse.

Do you know what happens with all your testing, especially on the other "My Motors got me..." thread? Maybe I need to do your examples there...

TIA

Sam

Classic Explanation -as I described above- is concerned on V & I only...They do not care what happens to Magnetic Fields, except to write it is a "Collapsing Field". And I understand magnetic fields do absolutely nothing on the circuit board of any switching power supply...

Now, in my World...as in the Logic and common sense world...ANY ELECTRIFIED/MAGNETIZED Coil which terminals VOLTAGES are REVERSED...AUTOMATICALLY reverse their Magnetic Field Polarities for the period of "On Time" the V reversal stays "On".

Meaning, that if no further Input is re-applied to Coil...Coil then "dies" or collapse field with magnetic polarities reversed.

In Asymmetrical Machines (Motors) as you wrote above...after Coil is disconnected it reverses Voltage...and understood it also reverses magnetic polarity until that Coil hits the next sequential brush input, where it swaps back to new Input spec's.

It will do help somehow to review that Thread and the experiments done with a standing still coil...being turned on and then off.

Do also some research on the Boost/Buck Converters...check out the Inductors circuit/terminals to output via diode...it will help a lot, believe me.
SEPIC (single-ended primary-inductor converter) is kind of more complex...since it uses Dual Inductors to alternate between them generating a more consistent/robust output...so check this one after going through the simple ones.

Kind regards friend, and nice talking to you again!


Ufopolitics

[SisMika]

Short memory?

Are you having memory problems UFO? Don't you remember just a couple of years ago Farmhand and citfta had this same discussion with you and proved you were wrong about the current changing direction? The voltage reverses because the coil becomes the source. The current continues in the same direction. Do I need to show you some scope shots that prove you are wrong?

sampojo, here is a link to a thread that has plenty of discussion and scope shots that show exactly what happens when the coil discharges:

Inductive Kickback

Your electronics friend is correct.

SisMika

[bistander]

reverses - not

Now, the Classic Explanation says:

When Coil is disconnected from source, the current tries to keep being "CONSTANT"...so it REVERSES its flow ....

Hi Ufo,

You are mistaken about the above statement. I have never seen a text book, legitimate reference or lecturer claim current in a coil reverses when it is disconnected. I have also never seen it happen in real life or the lab.

The statement of yours is a contradiction in and of itself. Attempting to keep constant would not indicate reversal. Reversal means opposite and therefore far from constant.

what is reversal: the act of changing or making something change to its opposite

reversal Definition in the Cambridge English Dictionary

Changing is opposite from keeping constant. Therefore your statement is a contradiction.

bi