Open discussion for projects on this forum.

[citfta]

A Better Mosfet driver circuit

Hi everyone,

In post #1362 of the "My motors helped me to tap into radiant energy" thread a member was explaining he couldn't get good sharp turn off of his mosfets with the circuit he was using and he asked if anyone know of a chip that would help him get faster turn on and off times with his mosfets. I replied that the FOD3180 chip gave very good results and also turned the mosfets fully off and on. I was politely told by Ufo to butt out and not to be telling HIS people what they should be using. He also said he didn't know if that chip would even work. Well I DO know that chip will do exactly what the poster was asking for. All you have to do is look up the data sheet and you will see that this chip was specifically designed to do just exactly what the poster was looking for. In addition there are several of us on this forum that have used that same chip for everything from the Tesla Switch to the 3 Battery Generating system and it has always worked great for very quick on and off times. I have attached a drawing showing how you could connect it to the output of a 555 chip and control a motor. Ufo has already posted a pretty good 555 circuit for giving pulse width modulation so you could use his 555 circuit and just change the output to this circuit with a good driver chip.

Later,
Carroll

PS: I just saw the chip in the drawing is the 3120. The 3180 is connected exactly the same and is rated for a higher voltage.

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Citfta

Hi everyone,

In post #1362 of the "My motors helped me to tap into radiant energy" thread a member was explaining he couldn't get good sharp turn off of his mosfets with the circuit he was using and he asked if anyone know of a chip that would help him get faster turn on and off times with his mosfets. I replied that the FOD3180 chip gave very good results and also turned the mosfets fully off and on. I was politely told by Ufo to butt out and not to be telling HIS people what they should be using. He also said he didn't know if that chip would even work. Well I DO know that chip will do exactly what the poster was asking for. All you have to do is look up the data sheet and you will see that this chip was specifically designed to do just exactly what the poster was looking for. In addition there are several of us on this forum that have used that same chip for everything from the Tesla Switch to the 3 Battery Generating system and it has always worked great for very quick on and off times. I have attached a drawing showing how you could connect it to the output of a 555 chip and control a motor. Ufo has already posted a pretty good 555 circuit for giving pulse width modulation so you could use his 555 circuit and just change the output to this circuit with a good driver chip.

Later,
Carroll

PS: I just saw the chip in the drawing is the 3120. The 3180 is connected exactly the same and is rated for a higher voltage.

Hello Citfta,

Thanks for sharing our small exchange of "data" in my other post...now if you please allow me to explain "my side"...like in any "Democratic Republic"...Right?...

Carroll, the poster was asking for some trouble turning Off the FET's, and I was helping into some basic resistor checking that do the work very simple and easy, without bigger complications...and honestly there is absolutely no circuits related to that chip you have mentioned on that thread that could be used as a reference...so Poster Anoop was still going to be lost. That is the reason I ask you not to post that IC and ask Her to follow and review the other circuits.

On other issue...the Circuit you are posting here contains a "Flywheel Diode" (D3)...And I WILL EVER...recommend to anyone reproducing My Motors to use A Diode in that position...it is KILLING Radiant Energy...and My Machines do not need that Diode since they do NOT generate ANY B EMF.
FET's have them as Intrinsic Diode to protect them and that is Ok...but never parallel to Motor Input like that on My Machines.
@ Turion:
Dave if you ever hook a Diode like that to any of your Motors on your 3BGS (meaning not only My Machines but any other symmetric ) ...You will get absolutely Nada...Nothing...
If you like ...make that "test"...


Regards to All


Ufopolitics

[citfta]

Flywheel diode

Hi Ufo,

Yes I agree the flywheel diode is probably not needed on your motor however this drawing was shown as an example of how easy it is to use the proper chip for the job. You cannot get quick turn off times on the mosfet using the circuit you have posted. The gate capacitance is just too high to get quick turn off by trying to bleed off the gate charge with your resistor to ground from the gate. This simple chip takes care of that problem. That is what it was designed to do. If anyone can connect a 555 circuit and get it to work then they should be able to easily use this chip. Besides being easy to use it gives you great isolation between your timing circuit and your power circuit so you don't have to worry about any spikes getting back to your timing circuit and causing problems there.

Respectfully,
Carroll

[Farmhand]

Mosfet drivers

I agree with you Carroll, I use Mosfet drivers to get a fast turn off and full
turn on. But I also agree with UFO, resistors are easy and can work ok for
lower frequencies. I use mostly TC4420 or TC4427. Which like all mosfet
drivers I guess give virtually vertical turn on and off even at higher frequencies 40 Khz
still vertical.

If someone was looking for faster turn off I would suggest a driver chip of
some kind as well. Or a 1n4148 diode and a pnp transistor can be used for a
turn off sharpener as well so no resistors need be used but only if the signal
source can drive the mosfet on properly.

If the mosfets are turned on and off quickly, full on and full off then they
don't get hot unless they pass a lot of current.

Won't turning the mosfet off quicker produce a better discharge of the energy
stored in the coil's field ?

Cheers

P.S. I also have some high/low side drivers and I intend to use one for a boost
converter with synchronous rectification, to see if I can beat the efficiency of
the one I made with schottky diodes.

..

[Farmhand]

I'm dubious about the home done dyno tests. I don't see how if a belt that has a
much lower friction value could give the same result as one that has a higher
friction value. ie if the belt used is slippery a lot more force could be applied to
the belt before the same effective drag is placed on the motor shaft.

eg a belt made from greased leather compared to one with tar applied or two
leather belts but just with different friction values would show different results I
think. As a belt is used it will probably get more and more smooth and slippery.

I don't think any old strap or belt could be used to give an actual HP value, I
think all that could be determined would be a relative value for comparison.
And with a belt that becomes smoother and shinier as it is used the friction
value would change and so skew the results.

To come up with an actual "horse power" value from a home made dyno using
a strap and some scales is dodgey to say the least in my opinion.

It doesn't make any sense to me that two people can use different straps
with different friction values and both get an accurate power value.

Any thoughts on that ?

Bottom line is these type of tests can be easily faked I think. Maybe that is a
good project fro me to do next, see if I can show two different readings from
the same motor using belts with different friction values, or the same belt
modified to have a lower friction value. Sounds like fun to me.

Cheers

P.S. And the reflective tape for the RPM meters is a doozy, if the meter
comes with reflective strips they are meant to be used I imagine. The
question is if the reflective strips are there why not use them to be more
accurate ?

..

[Ufopolitics]

Dubious Dyno Tests...Dodgey Results

I'm dubious about the home done dyno tests. I don't see how if a belt that has a
much lower friction value could give the same result as one that has a higher
friction value. ie if the belt used is slippery a lot more force could be applied to
the belt before the same effective drag is placed on the motor shaft.

eg a belt made from greased leather compared to one with tar applied or two
leather belts but just with different friction values would show different results I
think. As a belt is used it will probably get more and more smooth and slippery.

I don't think any old strap or belt could be used to give an actual HP value, I
think all that could be determined would be a relative value for comparison.
And with a belt that becomes smoother and shinier as it is used the friction
value would change and so skew the results.

To come up with an actual "horse power" value from a home made dyno using
a strap and some scales is dodgey to say the least in my opinion.

It doesn't make any sense to me that two people can use different straps
with different friction values and both get an accurate power value.

Any thoughts on that ?

Bottom line is these type of tests can be easily faked I think. Maybe that is a
good project fro me to do next, see if I can show two different readings from
the same motor using belts with different friction values, or the same belt
modified to have a lower friction value. Sounds like fun to me.

Cheers

P.S. And the reflective tape for the RPM meters is a doozy, if the meter
comes with reflective strips they are meant to be used I imagine. The
question is if the reflective strips are there why not use them to be more
accurate ?

..

To come up with an actual "horse power" value from a home made dyno using
a strap and some scales is dodgey to say the least in my opinion.

Peter Lindemann -- Electric Motor Secrets - YouTube

P.S. And the reflective tape for the RPM meters is a doozy, if the meter
comes with reflective strips they are meant to be used I imagine. The
question is if the reflective strips are there why not use them to be more
accurate ?

If You are not familiar with New Technology and electronics in Tooling ...and still keep used to the Old Fashioned Antique Equipments from Second World War...that is NOT my problem...but Yours...
This Tachometers, the same way the new Laser Thermometers , are equipped to perform at "Dual Functions" meaning with LASER and without it, meaning just Infra Red. LASER is provided to ENHANCE Accuracy as to reach longer distance. Tape is supplied for IR use without Laser.

P.D: It is absolutely not my desire, and much less "My Pleasure" to respond to you, since you have earned the ability to produce Nausea and Disgusting feelings in my stomach...However, I must do it, just because You are referring about Me, My Thread and The Members Excellent work replicating and testing My Machines...accusing them of Faking Results...and all those vomiting and dark spoiled rotten "verbs" that are always spilled and excreted from your brain...

And I am NOT going to allow you to post ANYTHING like that without My response...and it could be here, on this thread, mine or in the middle of no where...

Never Regards for such disgusting poor creature like you, but compassion about your great pain...

[Turion]

If any of this is in reference to the tests I did on UFo's motor vs modified motor, I too am concerned about accurate test results. I found that by painting the wheels black I got a really consistent reading with the tach I have, and am satisfied with the steady readings I am getting now...not jumping all over the place like (as UFO said) someone reading numbers at a Bingo game. As to the use of the belt on the pulley. I believe, as Farmhand has stated, that results might depend on the leather used in the belt AND the friction. And this could change as the thing heats up. But as all I care about is the comparison between the two motors, there is an easy way to tell if the results are at least semi accurate.

First, I am going to find a second digital meter so the readings don't jump all over the place. Then I will test the standard motor. Record the results. Test the modified motor. Record the results. Test the standard motor AGAIN and record the results. If the two tests of the standard motor are the same or very close to the same, we could assume an average of the to to be fairly accurate in comparison ONLY to the standard motor. Whether this is a true measure of their horsepower I could CARE LESS. All I want to see is a comparison of these two motors to each other. Can we all agree on that? Can we all agree that this would be a fair way to assess whether the friction of the belt on the pulley over time is changing the readings on the scales to ANY DEGREE THAT MATTERS?

I don't want anything that I do to be the cause of stress in the lives of others, so let's just wait and see what the results are. It will be Tuesday before I can get to the stores and find another digital scale.

Dave

[Matthew Jones]

David
I would not worry as to whether anyone agreed with you or not. Farmhand and UFO are equal in contemptible behavior. And both are ridiculous to an extreme on either end of the spectrum. They are not worth worry and neither of them of them have any credentials of ability and both of them plain type to much garbage for it to be any good.

That said...........

As long as you know the measurements from the mechanical side and you know the Watt count on the electrical side for the Unmodified motor you are fine. The unmodified motor is preset. 250-300 watt 1/3 HP at the rated RPM. Its ability and efficiency are FACT... So the modified motor can then be scaled. As long as the tests are equal.
But all the data has to be taken into consideration All measurements. Then the picture becomes clear. And from what you told me the motor performs above the stock motor whether the consensus of the test is positive or not.

The biggest thing is how to move forward with it? The question you have to wonder is, is this the first time it has been tested to this extent? And does it have the ability to move further?

Pandering and reworking test to satisfy narrow minded doubts is not going to get you there. When you satisfied with what you have done you should start testing to find out whats happening the power, because once you know that you can replicate on any scale. Trust me brother non of it is hiding in some fools mystery.

Matt

[Farmhand]

Matthew you write a lot of rediculous stuff that you won't or can't prove as well.

You accuse me of contemptible behavior. What is it. Please be specific.

If you can make accusations against people have the gonads to say what you are talking about.

What is my contemptible behavior. Show me an example.

Those dyno tests are only any good for the person doing them, they are as easy as pie to fake.

..

[Farmhand]

I'm not asking for anyone to do anything or change what they do all I'm doing is
putting forward a perspective which I thought was worth mentioning.

I'm not even saying anyone has or will fake anything.

I'm just saying that a real HP value could not be reached if the test equipment is not designed to do it.

Can anyone deny a more slippery belt will produce a different reading.

Can anyone say with certainty that a rpm meter that is sold to be used with
reflective tape should be used without and just because the reading is
somewhat stable must be correct.

I use reflective tape and a cheap meter, so what, it is accurate because I have
calculated the rpm of a generator rotor by frequency and magnets with a sine
wave, no extra oscillations. I checked it to be sure. Not that I am making any
claims, just for me.

This thread was made for people to make their opinions.

I don't think Carroll intended people to experience bullying attempts here.

But go for it. No skin off my internet nose.

P.S. Turion I'm not making judgement on you or your actions, I think you are fully
capable of realizing anything I or anyone else could. I was just mentioning
something I thought was kinda overlooked. I'm not trying to say to do
anything different.

..

[Farmhand]

I'm heartened to see people have such a contempt for me. I certainly won't feel
guilty for what I do when I get treated like this.

Have a nice day.

[Matthew Jones]

Matthew you write a lot of ridiculous stuff that you won't or can't prove as well....
..

3 separate posts ????? Thats as bad as 3 threads and umpteen amount of post to say you don't agree with Thane Hines.

Thats what makes you ridiculous on your end of the spectrum. LOL

Matt

PS. If your ever come to this side of the pond, look me up. I'll show you a thing or 2 for sure.

[Farmhand]

OK Matt, I think from memory you say a low voltage high current output can be mixed with a higher voltage low current output for an advantage.

Could you explain that to us again please ?

I have no intention of going to america why don't you come here and show me
something big noter. Grow up.

I suppose you think you know everything I know and I could not show you
something you didn't know before. All knowing Matthew Jones, if you have
a question just ask him, he knows the answer doesn't matter what it is about.

..

[Matthew Jones]

WOW!! You got it all in 1 post. I'm proud of ya

I'll give ya part number. You give it a guess, or maybe try.

Bourns 2020-15T-C2LF.

Have you not ever attempted to blend power sources?

We'll see.... I just don't think you have that much imagination.

Matt

[Farmhand]

Address the subject

That's exactly the type of condescending post I expect from you Matthew.

Why not address the issue I raised rather than let loose with the personal
attacks ?

I didn't make any personal attacks on anyone. I raised a valid point and I get
personal insults from wannabe bullies.

If you think it will stop me raising any other points I think are valid you are
mistaken and wasting your own time.

If you think you have somehow intimidated me you are also wrong.

So you won't explain the way to make a gain from "blending power sources" ?

If there is a gain there why not explain it and demonstrate it for all the other fine folks ?

..