Open discussion for projects on this forum.

[Ufopolitics]

Wrong...

I believe it was in relation to the inappropriate usage of a TMT/flat spiral coil, wherein Ufopolitification was proposed through adding a diode at either end of the coil, and applying a load across the coil as a conventional closed circuit, as seen in Ufo's original circuit. Apart from the obvious resulting frequency issue, it was not possible to try it when there was 70,000+ volts at the free end of the coil.

Testing a diode and LEDs on the ground end came up during the (signal generator powered) testing of the TMT, and that stopped the whole thing from working, all polarities tested including parallel diodes in opposite directions. So it can be expected that the Ufopolitification will do nothing except stop it from working, unless you want to use it as a regular transformer.

Hey Jake,

Not what Dr Green is writing...at all...that was not the "Test" I ask Him to do...

He just can not remember...too many circuits on his head...

Or simply when people "under estimate" your work...then at last minute call...want to run...and search and do, and do...

But sometimes is too late...too much ahead already.

Ufopolitification

Dr Green: I really do not appreciate you calling my work in that ....let's say "FASHION"...

Did I ever called your work DRGreenization ?

Let's maintain our always kept distances and respect related to our work...AND AS Individuals...please.

I have never criticized your work...

and TRUST ME I COULD!!

BUT I WON'T


Ufopolitics

P.D: Jake, You will know about that "test" soon...but will be on video...and maybe a whole new Thread about it...I also MAKE TESLA COILS AND NICE AND BIG BOYS...not little wooden toys...

But won't be right now...I am very busy with Real Machines now...not entertainment Ones...
Regards Jake

[dR-Green]

Hello DR Green,

I am sorry, but I am not going to start a debate with you about what it took me a lot of written pages on my previous and first thread...a long time ago...basically to you...that we know each other from FB...

You did not read it...you did not try to replicate like hundreds did very successfully ...that is absolutely not my problem...sorry, but I am not giving you "briefly" something that took me so long to elaborate...

All is written still there...


Regards


Ufopolitics

I don't want a debate. Like you said, hundreds are replicating it, so one would expect that some basic information like this be readily available. You don't need me also building it. I'm working on what about 3-4 people are working on, directly relating to Tesla, so it gets the priority, I don't have time or money to work on what hundreds of people are already working on just to get an answer none of them will give. The question simply relates to the fact you have 36 volt power supply, and "rendering" 2-4 volts. What does "rendering" mean? I could assume it means what I think you mean, but then it wouldn't make any sense, because you can't have 36 volts supply and "only use 2-4 volts", so you mean the battery voltage drops by 2-4 volts? If so, after how much time, with what current draw? I recall you mentioning 500-800mA once, but over what time period? I don't understand your terminology or your method of coming to various conclusions.

[dR-Green]

Dr Green: I really do not appreciate you calling my work in that ....let's say "FASHION"...

Did I ever called your work DRGreenization ?

Let's maintain our always kept distances and respect related to our work...AND AS Individuals...please.

I have never criticized your work...

and TRUST ME I COULD!!

BUT I WON'T

It wasn't meant as an offensive word

Anyway feel free to criticise, I learn through it Also the "little wooden toys" are for test purposes and gathering scientific data for future reference. The size is dependant on the frequency as you may or may not discover.

[edit] After all this is an "open discussion for projects on this forum."

[Ufopolitics]

Number One...

I don't want a debate. Like you said, hundreds are replicating it, so one would expect that some basic information like this be readily available. You don't need me also building it. I'm working on what about 3-4 people are working on, directly relating to Tesla, so it gets the priority, I don't have time or money to work on what hundreds of people are already working on just to get an answer none of them will give. The question simply relates to the fact you have 36 volt power supply, and "rendering" 2-4 volts. What does "rendering" mean? I could assume it means what I think you mean, but then it wouldn't make any sense, because you can't have 36 volts supply and "only use 2-4 volts", so you mean the battery voltage drops by 2-4 volts? If so, after how much time, with what current draw? I recall you mentioning 500-800mA once, but over what time period? I don't understand your terminology or your method of coming to various conclusions.

DR Green,

If You Insist...

I know Your knowledge related to Electronic Circuits is very limited, and as I understand you have dedicated most of your time to build and test Tesla Coils...as also to light up Bulbs and other Fluorescent Bulbs...but I will explain.

There is something called Voltage Regulator, as also Oscillators, Controllers...that I know off, you have never built even the simplest one...but you use instead an already built Signal Generator...and may be order some on other circuits on line...already built.

I make them from scratch...from an empty circuit board, that previously I had designed and taken to CAD designs...and Circuit builders software. So, trust me, I know how they function very well. As I do have the right Testing and Expensive Equipment to make my Lab Work...

An Oscillator Output through its DRAIN (That could be Positive or Negative or...BOTH) is a Regulator and modulator of something called a Square Wave...or a PWM...and when you turn that Potentiometer from zero (Highest Resistance point) only allows certain Voltage Out...as also Amperage according to demand from Load...

Something similar to an Audio Amplifier...Volume Control...will limit the amount of Frequency Wave the Speaker will get...and as you could turn on that Volume...you are opening that Gate out...You will hear the music low or high...or VERY LOUD...

So, yes, 2 to 4 Volts at Output...simple like that...and it does not matter if I have a 1000 Volts Battery Pack...I could reduce Output anyway I please and desire...from 0 Volts...to 2.0...to 500V...Up to 1000V

Electronically You could "regulate" output LINEARLY or PULSED...STILL ...you are "Regulating" Output.
Was that hard to understand that?

[Ufopolitics]

Like I said...

It wasn't meant as an offensive word

Anyway feel free to criticise, I learn through it Also the "little wooden toys" are for test purposes and gathering scientific data for future reference. The size is dependant on the frequency as you may or may not discover.

[edit] After all this is an "open discussion for projects on this forum."

Please, do not waste my time as I will not waste yours...

Thanks

[dR-Green]

DR Green,

If You Insist...

I know Your knowledge related to Electronic Circuits is very limited, and as I understand you have dedicated most of your time to build and test Tesla Coils...as also to light up Bulbs and other Fluorescent Bulbs...but I will explain.

There is something called Voltage Regulator, as also Oscillators, Controllers...that I know off, you have never built even the simplest one...but you use instead an already built Signal Generator...and may be order some on other circuits on line...already built.

I make them from scratch...from an empty circuit board, that previously I had designed and taken to CAD designs...and Circuit builders software. So, trust me, I know how they function very well. As I do have the right Testing and Expensive Equipment to make my Lab Work...

An Oscillator Output through its DRAIN (That could be Positive or Negative or...BOTH) is a Regulator and modulator of something called a Square Wave...or a PWM...and when you turn that Potentiometer from zero (Highest Resistance point) only allows certain Voltage Out...as also Amperage according to demand from Load...

Something similar to an Audio Amplifier...Volume Control...will limit the amount of Frequency Wave the Speaker will get...and as you could turn on that Volume...you are opening that Gate out...You will hear the music low or high...or VERY LOUD...

So, yes, 2 to 4 Volts at Output...simple like that...and it does not matter if I have a 1000 Volts Battery Pack...I could reduce Output anyway I please and desire...from 0 Volts...to 2.0...to 500V...Up to 1000V

Electronically You could "regulate" output LINEARLY or PULSED...STILL ...you are "Regulating" Output.
Was that hard to understand that?

Well I could go on about all the nice and expensive equipment I acquired since my father retired from over 30 years working as an electronics service engineer for such people as Philips, Ministry Of Defence, Marconi Company, Royal Mint, British Aerospace etc etc before starting on myself, but that is neither here nor there.

I guess Alzheimer's got in the way of you remembering asking me for a certain circuit diagram before?

A square wave isn't PWM. PWM is a modulated pulse width, meaning the pulse width varies over time by means of a second oscillator. I spent 8 years playing with audio oscillators and sound synthesis and music production A square wave is a constant pulse width.

No that wasn't hard to understand. Thanks for answering. Although I would still have legitimate questions, such as if the actual supply voltage is 2-4v, then what's the purpose of the 36v battery? The circuit would be wasting more energy than necessary. And is the current draw measured from the battery at 36v, or at 2-4v?

I'm not trying to waste your time. All that's needed to be known is the power in and power out, in conventional terms, such as voltage and current. A bit of science and universal language so we're all on the same page. I fail to see why there's so much difficulty or evasion in providing something as basic as this that's all.

[Ufopolitics]

Well I could go on about all the nice and expensive equipment I acquired since my father retired from over 30 years working as an electronics service engineer for such people as Philips, Ministry Of Defence, Marconi Company, Royal Mint, British Aerospace etc etc before starting on myself, but that is neither here nor there.

I guess Alzheimer's got in the way of you remembering asking me for a certain circuit diagram before?

Nope, I do not have that "problem", I remember a circuit you had added a paper drawing from Eric Dollard, that I liked the opto-isolators side...but I mean, anyone could have a circuit posted, that doesn't mean it's His...

A square wave isn't PWM. PWM is a modulated pulse width, meaning the pulse width varies over time by means of a second oscillator. I spent 8 years playing with audio oscillators and sound synthesis and music production A square wave is a constant pulse width.

WRONG!!, a Square Wave COULD BE MODULATED by a PWM (ASTABLE MODE)...A Square Wave DOES NOT Necessarily NEED TO BE ALWAYS "Constant"(STABLE MODE)...who told you that?
Square Wave is the Intrinsic Property (Shape) of a given wave, it could be "Triangular Shape" or "Sine Shape"...BUT THEY ALL COULD BE MODULATED.
Modulate is an "Operation", that could be performed/applied to ANY given Wave out there. Based on a Repetition and Modulation over time.
And NOPE, You DO NOT need "A Second Oscillator" to do that...JUST ONE Oscillator Chip could generate and modulate a Wave, BOTH Operations...like a simple 555 Timer oscillator...

PWM is a "General Operation" where you could "adjust" Duty Cycle and Frequency...or Both at same time...depending on circuitry.

No that wasn't hard to understand. Thanks for answering. Although I would still have legitimate questions, such as if the actual supply voltage is 2-4v, then what's the purpose of the 36v battery? The circuit would be wasting more energy than necessary. And is the current draw measured from the battery at 36v, or at 2-4v?

Your Cell Phone have a Charger right?...a Charger you plug in your Wall Outlet, there it collects 240V (in your case in Europe) and out of those 240, your phone only uses maybe 1.5 to 3.0 Volts...So Ask your phone manufacturer..."What is the purpose of using 240 Volts?"
Ask your Power Supply Company why they don't give you a line of at least 40-50 Volts to run your electronics...including your PC's?
I mean it is also a waste of Energy right?

I could just use 12V in my Coil systems easy, I use 36V and 24V...NOT to have three different oscillators controllers to work with all Motors and other models I work with....it is just "turning volume down"...

I'm not trying to waste your time. All that's needed to be known is the power in and power out, in conventional terms, such as voltage and current. A bit of science and universal language so we're all on the same page. I fail to see why there's so much difficulty or evasion in providing something as basic as this that's all.

Are You familiar with the Buck-Boost Family and Dual Inductance systems like the SEPIC, CÚK and ZETA Switching Power Supplies, Inverters, Converters as also Motor Controllers?

THEY ALL PLAY WITH THE PWM OF SQUARE WAVES to Achieve their Output, that is called SWITCHING TECH...Interruption/switching On-Off caused by FET's that rise to max V at zero time to go flat on High Side on its T-On, then drop zero/flat to Low Side(T-Off), raise zero to flat top (high side) and so on...that GENERATES a "Square Wave", Now, altering those T/On's - T/Off's, expands or contracts the wave over time , the Time of both [T/On-TOff] renders Frequency, The On Times given in percentage related to both (On-Off) as a 100% renders Duty Cycle.

for example:

A Buck Converter uses say 48 Volts to Convert it to 12 Volts (Accessory Output for Electric Vehicles)
A Boost Converter uses 12V to generate 18,24 0r 36V...
Even an "Inverter" from DC to AC outputs NOT an AC Sine Wave, but a "similar one" Square Wave that renders equal points at positive-negative as AC Sine-wave, BUT it is NOT a perfect round edges Sine wave.
And so on and on...

The bottom line is:

I could get a Source of 36V, measure with a DVM at battery terminals and have say 36.3V, then through an oscillator circuit Drain to Positive I could "regulate" Output from ZERO to MAX (36.0) by simply adding a Volt Meter there...what do I get?...as I dial it Up a smooth raise in Volts-Amps to MY LOAD.
By decreasing the Duty Cycle I could go from 1% to 99% of output...very smoothly...then I am "spending" whatever shows at Out Meter plus whatever consume Voltage Regulators and oscillators...which is minimum expense....Your Battery Meter will show that precisely how much draining you are doing if you have annotated your original Values at start...

Simple Math Brother...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[dR-Green]

WRONG!!, a Square Wave COULD BE MODULATED by a PWM (ASTABLE MODE)...A Square Wave DOES NOT Necessarily NEED TO BE ALWAYS "Constant"(STABLE MODE)...who told you that?
Square Wave is the Intrinsic Property (Shape) of a given wave, it could be "Triangular Shape" or "Sine Shape"...BUT THEY ALL COULD BE MODULATED.
Modulate is an "Operation", that could be performed/applied to ANY given Wave out there. Based on a Repetition and Modulation over time.
And NOPE, You DO NOT need "A Second Oscillator" to do that...JUST ONE Oscillator Chip could generate and modulate a Wave, BOTH Operations...like a simple 555 Timer oscillator...

PWM is a "General Operation" where you could "adjust" Duty Cycle and Frequency...or Both at same time...depending on circuitry.

PWM = Pulse Width Modulation. No modulation = no PWM.

A "second oscillator" may be of any source, including manual operation. The point is it must continue to modulate over time. If it doesn't then there is no modulation, therefore it's not pulse width modulation, since the pulse width is not being modulated. Then it's a constant waveform.

I don't have a cell phone or any tosh like that Yes the transmission system wastes energy. I thought you were against such things, not to be joining in and doing the same as them. But for transmission purposes higher voltage = lower current = less losses. Once it gets to your house then to hell with the losses, the more the better because then you're paying for it.

Well now I understand what you're doing as far as the power supply is concerned. What would be nice to know is supply voltage and current, and also output. We have seen the Envirolite being lit but we have no idea as to the supply and output other than light, through a video, which means no one can really see it except you being in the room with it.

[Ufopolitics]

Look at this..

PWM = Pulse Width Modulation. No modulation = no PWM.

A "second oscillator" may be of any source, including manual operation. The point is it must continue to modulate over time. If it doesn't then there is no modulation, therefore it's not pulse width modulation, since the pulse width is not being modulated. Then it's a constant waveform.

I don't have a cell phone or any tosh like that Yes the transmission system wastes energy. I thought you were against such things, not to be joining in and doing the same as them. But for transmission purposes higher voltage = lower current = less losses. Once it gets to your house then to hell with the losses, the more the better because then you're paying for it.

Well now I understand what you're doing as far as the power supply is concerned. What would be nice to know is supply voltage and current, and also output. We have seen the Envirolite being lit but we have no idea as to the supply and output other than light, through a video, which means no one can really see it except you being in the room with it.

Hey DR Green,

Whatever Man...


Look at this nice experiment...I think you will like it...Old Scientist is a You Tube friend...Great Experimenter

Phanotron tube excited via solid state driven counter wound Tesla coils - YouTube.

Think I am gonna get one of those Tubes...!!

The address of who makes them & sale them is on Video description...

Edit: Here...Bill's Plasma Tubes Gallery

check where it says CLICKING HERE

Beautiful Tubes!...kind of high prices...but nice ones there.

Similar Ones were used by DR Rife...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[dR-Green]

That is a nice tube, thanks

[citfta]

Replacing brushes with bearings

Something has come up on the Ufo assymetrical motor thread that I just have to comment on. Ufo has posted a design using bearings to replace the brushes on a motor.

My first question has to be "Why?". His motor is supposed to have so much torque and excess power then why worry about a little bit of drag from some brushes. In a properly maintained DC motor the brushes don't really contribute much drag at all. In an industrial DC motor the insulation segments between the brushes is flush with the commutator segments so the brushes just slide right over the commutator with very little drag. I can very easily turn a 25 Hp DC motor by hand against the drag of the brushes. And these motors have 4 brushes the same as Ufo's motors except they are all on one end.

Will the bearing last longer and give less maintenance problems? Well how much maintenance do the regular brushes take? If the motor is protected from dirt and grit in the air then the brushes will last a long time with minimum maintenance. I have seen motors that were run daily and brushes would last for years before needing replacement. And a properly designed motor allows you to change the brushes be only removing a couple of covers and maybe taking a few wires loose. It can easily be done on a lot of motors in less than an hour.

As DadHav has correctly pointed out the bearings used in place of brushes brings a whole set of other problems with them. For a while some manufacturers of welding equipment tried using conductive bearings on their welding positioner tables. They had a special conductive grease that had to be injected into the bearings on a regular basis. If this grease was not replaced regularly then the bearing rollers had to carry the current. When this happened the bearings soon started locking up and had to be replaced. We had so many problems with this system we just ran the grounding cable directly to the work table and forgot about the conductive bearings.

I know Ufo said to get the bearings with a metal shield instead of the plastic shield. Have you looked at one of those bearings? That thin metal shield is not actually touching the outer race of the bearing. There is a tiny layer of grease between the shield and the outer race. If there wasn't that thin layer of grease then the shield would wear out very quickly and no longer touch the outer race. Even if the shield was making good contact with the inner and outer race do you really think it could carry enough current to run your house? This idea might work for a while in a prototype on the bench. But I thought Ufo was designing a motor to run 24/7 and drive a generator to power a house. If it is supposed to run 24/7 then the replacing the brushes with bearings is a bad idea.

Respectfully,
Carroll

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Citfta

Something has come up on the Ufo assymetrical motor thread that I just have to comment on. Ufo has posted a design using bearings to replace the brushes on a motor.

My first question has to be "Why?". His motor is supposed to have so much torque and excess power then why worry about a little bit of drag from some brushes. In a properly maintained DC motor the brushes don't really contribute much drag at all. In an industrial DC motor the insulation segments between the brushes is flush with the commutator segments so the brushes just slide right over the commutator with very little drag. I can very easily turn a 25 Hp DC motor by hand against the drag of the brushes. And these motors have 4 brushes the same as Ufo's motors except they are all on one end.

Will the bearing last longer and give less maintenance problems? Well how much maintenance do the regular brushes take? If the motor is protected from dirt and grit in the air then the brushes will last a long time with minimum maintenance. I have seen motors that were run daily and brushes would last for years before needing replacement. And a properly designed motor allows you to change the brushes be only removing a couple of covers and maybe taking a few wires loose. It can easily be done on a lot of motors in less than an hour.

As DadHav has correctly pointed out the bearings used in place of brushes brings a whole set of other problems with them. For a while some manufacturers of welding equipment tried using conductive bearings on their welding positioner tables. They had a special conductive grease that had to be injected into the bearings on a regular basis. If this grease was not replaced regularly then the bearing rollers had to carry the current. When this happened the bearings soon started locking up and had to be replaced. We had so many problems with this system we just ran the grounding cable directly to the work table and forgot about the conductive bearings.

I know Ufo said to get the bearings with a metal shield instead of the plastic shield. Have you looked at one of those bearings? That thin metal shield is not actually touching the outer race of the bearing. There is a tiny layer of grease between the shield and the outer race. If there wasn't that thin layer of grease then the shield would wear out very quickly and no longer touch the outer race. Even if the shield was making good contact with the inner and outer race do you really think it could carry enough current to run your house? This idea might work for a while in a prototype on the bench. But I thought Ufo was designing a motor to run 24/7 and drive a generator to power a house. If it is supposed to run 24/7 then the replacing the brushes with bearings is a bad idea.

Respectfully,
Carroll

Hello Carrol,

Thanks for bringing my new design into discussion here...

Let me say first, that this thread was a great idea from you, it is some sort of Chanel News Networking, where all the "Gossip" gathers for Broadcasting as for others to review, without interfering with the actual Threads where the new opinions, ideas and projects are taking place. This Thread allows for great discussions without interrupting the Main Threads. So that's good!...

Now, The Brush Bearings as I have displayed there , is not completed as there are other many options and improvements to it, as I wrote there:

Many more improvements could be done here...

As I realize the comment/objection posted by Dad Hav on this idea, as I also understand your point very well, and as to a certain point I have to agree with you both. However, this design, (like I also mentioned there) I conceived in order for other applications to function properly.

My Machines reach much higher speeds than any motor of the same capacity (original) has been tested so far by many at my thread. This fact have recently created an accident of one of my great followers and replicators of my design (Netica)...Netica almost losses an eye because of a commutator element separated from the mica that holds it together, and by looking at pictures, plus the explanation from Netica...He was NOT running his Model at even close to full speed. Now, based on Netica's build, you can tell there is a lot of quality on His work, not a loose and "not wrapped too tight model" like you see some times...Therefore the possibility of a bad build model is very far.
Could it has been a defective commutator?...yes it could...

That was the main reason that urged me to upload this idea to be discussed for improvement and comments about it.

Now, I know the brush systems has been established for more than a century...and the most we have seen, as improvements, are "Angled Brushes", that works only for a unidirectional motor. But you have to agree that brushes brings a lot of friction that develops in heat at the commutation metals, besides the accumulation of carbon deposits ends up short circuiting (even more than Symmetrical Systems are) ending the machine life sooner...

As I also understand that expensive Machines have very good quality brush systems, from the Carbon Alloys utilized, the springs high grade steel, the casing made of good quality metals...to the boards that hold them, made of the best of mica and high temperature insulators...
Still the vectors of force from brush systems act to put stress and heat at commutation elements, creating heavy arcing between plates, as also wearing both components through time, since brushes are riding on a completely interrupted surface by the gaps space.

Now, like I said before that design is not completed...meaning there is more to improve there...

Like a brush riding on the smooth surface of the copper outer ring of the bearing, in order to use bearing as a "Middle Rolling Mechanism" between commutator and brush, shock absorbing the "Bad Ride"...Then Brush will no longer be riding directly on an uneven surface...
Like a Continuous Slip Ring Contact.

[IMG][/IMG]

This will reduce considerably the friction, as the life of both commutating elements there.

My Machines require a certain amount of brushes, that double the amount of a Typical Symmetrical Motor...that was another reason why I conceived this idea...So I am not trying for every motor out there to change into my design...BUT mines.

[IMG][/IMG]

That was just one of the many improvements that could be done.

However Carrol, I know You are on the "Conservative Tea Party" related to Motors and Generators, like others here I expect here as well...
That You all think Motors and Generators do not need any more improvements...since they are all "pretty efficient" as of now...as you believe..


Regards


Ufopolitics

[citfta]

Hello UFO,

I think you need to work on your mind reading skills. They have failed you big time. I have never said motors couldn't be improved. You can search every post I have ever made on this forum and any other forum on the internet and you will not find where I have said that. If I really believed that I wouldn't be a member of this forum. And I have never said your motors aren't worth investigating. I am still waiting to see where all this is going. Time will show us if what you have to offer is all you claim. Until then I am reserving judgement on your motors. But don't make claims about what I believe. I can do that for myself.

However Carrol, I know You are on the "Conservative Tea Party" related to Motors and Generators, like others here I expect here as well...
That You all think Motors and Generators do not need any more improvements...since they are all "pretty efficient" as of now...as you believe..

Regards

Ufopolitics

Respectfully,
Carroll

[Ufopolitics]

Hello UFO,

I think you need to work on your mind reading skills. They have failed you big time. I have never said motors couldn't be improved. You can search every post I have ever made on this forum and any other forum on the internet and you will not find where I have said that. If I really believed that I wouldn't be a member of this forum. And I have never said your motors aren't worth investigating. I am still waiting to see where all this is going. Time will show us if what you have to offer is all you claim. Until then I am reserving judgement on your motors. But don't make claims about what I believe. I can do that for myself.




Respectfully,
Carroll

Hello Citfta,


I really doubt I have any problems with My mind reading skills...
Although...I could say that you do...

POST #5/Page 1/Farmhand


Hi Carroll, As far as motors go I think they are already quite efficient, there
is benefit to recovering the coil collapse from switched coils, but from what I see
if the motor is pulsed the max power is reduced, and when loading a
pulsed motor if the motor tries to maintain speed the input power will increase
and the recovered energy will be more. When a pulsed motor with recovery is
accelerated by increasing the voltage input, the recovered energy is less.

This all tells me there is no free energy in a motor, all that is possible is closer
to 100% efficient. Motors are for delivering shaft power and if we reduce
maximum input power we reduce maximum shaft power, it's the in between area's where
people see what appears to be extra energy because they reduce the input
by pulsing or removing windings and recover some energy, but under full load
at full power they cannot perform as a regular motor would in my opinion, only
slightly or partially loaded motors can afford to lose "on" time to get the
recovery in my opinion and I doubt it will ever be more out than in in a modified motor.

To improve a motor I think it needs to keep the same shaft power or more
and reduce input. Testing shaft power is not simple, using a generator could
work for testing but won't give a hard figure to compare so I have little
expectation any improvements will be made unless to already inefficient
motors. Almost a waste of time trying to improve on 97% efficient.

Cheers

POST#7/PAGE1/Citfta

Hi Farmhand,

Most of what you said about motors is true. On a lot of the machines I worked on we had to have motors big enough to get a large mass moving. Once that mass was moving then we didn't need all that power. So at that point using PWM we were able to power the motor as if it was a smaller motor than it actually was. This is the case with a lot of motors used in industry. They are almost never run at full power. So in those cases pulsing the motor with a PWM controller is really a good idea and lets the motor run cooler and uses less power. The PWM also lets us control the motor speed more easily than some of the older systems that used the thyratron tubes. The PWM also lets us control the torque in cases where we don't want to overly stress the motor or other components with a too rapid start up.

Now the question still remains is pulsing the motor a good way to try and get OU. I agree with you that we probably are not going to get more from a motor just by pulsing it. However as Bizzy has shown we can pulse the motor when it is tied to a very efficient generator and get a machine that appears to be doing the same thing as the Watson/Bedini machine.

Later,
Carroll

POST#50/PAGE 2

Hi Farmhand,

I have gotten so tired of all the silly talk about witches and assymetrical this and that I have just about quit looking at that thread. So far I have not seen any evidence of proof to back up the claims. I asked for some references to these motors that somehow have more than one axis and as expected no references have been given. There are a lot of claims with nothing to back them up. I would really like to be wrong and see a motor that does what he is claiming but I don't think it is going to be from him.

Later,
Carroll

Regards


Ufopolitics

[citfta]

Huh?

Where in the quotes from Farmhand or my quotes did I say motors can't be improved? And what has that got to do with the bearing instead of brushes idea?

When your roller hits the gap between commutator sections it is going to drop slightly into that gap. It has to because the curvature of the roller is the opposite of the commutator. At any kind of normal speed this will cause the bearing to bounce when it hits the next section of commutator. When a brush gets to the gap it will bridge the gap because the trailing edge of the brush is still riding on the leaving section of the commutator and the curvature of the brush matches the curvature of the commutator.

You said you came up with this idea because one of the sections of a commutator came flying loose and hit someone in the eye. I am already blind in one eye so I know that is a very serious concern. But I fail to see how changing from a brush to a bearing is going to prevent a section of commutator from coming loose. In fact you are going to have such a small contact area where the bearing touches the commutator you will increase heating because of the high resistance path of the small contact area.

Respectfully,
Carroll