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Anyone else getting spam about the hendershot generator? My wife just got some! LOL
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jimboot: I assume you're referring to this site in particular:Originally posted by jimboot View Post
The Hendershot Generator
As it happens, I registered just to ask you guys about that. I confess to knowing nothing about these issues and my impression is that it is a hoax; when something seems too good to be true, it usually is.
It is a hoax, right?
Thanks.Comment
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Good Timing!
Dear Qwestry,Originally posted by Qwestry View Post
Someone else just asked me this question in a private email. Here is what I told him.
Yes, this is a scam. Back when Hendershot was building working models, one of the people who knew him was Ed Skilling. I met Ed back in the early 1980's due to my connections with Borderland Sciences Research Foundation. Ed told me he saw a number of machines that Lester built operating. When he asked for the plans, Lester gave him detailed instructions. Ed was a very talented and skilled electronics engineer. He built the model exactly to Lester's specifications but was not able to start the unit. One day, Lester came over to Ed's house and Ed showed him the model he built. It took Lester less than a minute to start the model that Ed built. It ran itself and lit a light bulb. When Lester left, the machine continued to run. It ran for days without any problem. Then, Ed turned it off..... and never got it running again.
Ed was an excellent circuit designer and engineer. He was not superstitious. In spite of this, he told me he believed that Lester Hendershot had some kind of telekinetic abilities, as the machines only worked for him. Even a complete set of accurate plans was no guarantee of ending up with a working device. Borderland Sciences Research Foundation sold a booklet on the Hendershot device for over two decades, and no one ever got one to run.
I am quite sure that no set of plans sold today will allow anybody to build a working model of that device. This is certainly true of Hendershot's original designs. So, the slickly sold scam plans will definitely not work.
That said, I see people making variations on Hendershot's ideas in this thread, and wish you all well.
Best regards,
PeterLast edited by Peter Lindemann; 02-04-2013, 08:02 PM.Comment
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similar to cold fusion...
Hi Peter.Originally posted by Peter Lindemann View Post
Yes "Wild Talents" and other things written about Lester gave that
telekinetic impression.
But I think it is "true" and "not true" in the following way.
We all have energy fields around us. You can put a scope probe
on a circuit with coils and capacitors and see one sort of sine way,
then touch it and the "human capacitance" will change everything --
similar to how a theremin works. Lester would obviously have
some knowledge about his device that is crucial to success such as:
1) Orientation relative to Earth's field in that location.
The vector of this field has an x a y and a z component unique
to the spot on the globe you reside. The SPIN he probably is
creating will be ideal with a certain orientation.
So one question would be "How strong is your magnet and
does the Earth's field matter." If you select a weak magnet,
then the Earth's field may play an important role. If your magnet
well exceeds the Earth's field by orders of magnitude, then
it can probably be ignored. Lester's personal machine may have
had a very "right-sized" magnet whereas Ed's machine may have
need a subtle orientation adjustment that Ed didn't know how to do.
2) The masters of Chi know how to balance their bodies chemistry
so as to keep a large charge in their Dantian. This may amount
to eating proper foods for energy and living a "monk-like" life.
3) There is certainly a "tuning" trick here and Lester may have been
able to TAP to the right loop of a coil or get the hand-made
capacitor in balance by "feel", since he's done it so many times.
So the inventor will have some knowledge of getting it going ...
sort of like how a guy who works on his own motorcycle can start it,
but other's cant.
This can be another "cold fusion" like invention... No one can do
it unless they know the trick -- smooth palladium not rough palladium.Comment
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Barry Hilton book
Hello Morpher I unhooked the L-1 coil and hooked it together as you mentioned hoping to set up a mutual inductance field in L-2 or even L-3. I have a device I discovered in trying to receive current in a Tesla type energy receiver. This is the same device I was able to receive 30 volts DC and a tenth of an amp with from an aluminum collector 30 feet in the air. The device contains 4- germanium diodes (IN 34) and two electrolytic capacitors 100 uF 50 v and 2- 0.2 uF 50 v ceramic capacitors. When hooked up to the outputs of the complete Hendershot device I did not find AC or DC voltage present. I reasoned that it might be possible to hook the L-1 coil wires into the device and check for an output. I did not find any voltage present. The next thing I tried was to hook the L-3 coil into my device and wait two hours to see if there would be a charge in the capacitors. Sorry to say that I could not read an AC or DC voltage. I did line the Basket weave coils with a very thin aluminum cylinder hoping to receive some voltage. Obviously the device cannot work if it cannot receive any power from the magnetic field of the earth. I toyed with the idea of using an 8 inch cylinder and weaving number 12 solid core coated wire and doubling or tripling the amount of windings in hopes of collecting more energy. You had mentioned the number of turns Hendershot used and the wire gage may be critical in tuning the device. Any thoughts on this? Bob
I was searching for information on Barry Hilton's book you mentioned but google came up with a bunch of Hiltons notably a comedian but nothing like I am looking for. Do you have a lead I can use to find it?
Originally posted by hywystr View PostComment
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Thank you very much, Peter!Originally posted by Peter Lindemann View Post
I guess they can hide behind their money back guarantee.
It is truly mindboggling that evidently no one has been able to build a functioning device. I hope you guys find that positively challenging rather than demoralizing.
Did Lester die soon after visiting Ed so that the latter was not able to inquire further about the intricacies of the device's operation?Comment
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reply to Bob
Hi Bob,
I think the 30-foot reception device your talking about is the Tate
Ambient Power module invented in the 70s.
tate ambient power module
Correct? I use that too. Very handy.
re: Barry Hilton's Book
I found it on scribd. There are other "book" websites too that you might
find it. It's "free" after you register with those sites, creating username
and password. scribd might be charging people money now...not sure.
re: flat-lined measurements...
A coil hooked to itself is a bit difficult to measure.
This may not be the right approach after all. But and wiring
L1 to the cap may be correct. It's hard to tell from the drawing.
A tank circuit makes sense, but the frequency be well BELOW
the AM band, but far above the frequency of the magnetic oscillator.
And hooking up to the complete device is probably not a worthwhile
approach YET until we know more about the frequencies, and tuning
requirements, and tolerances, and "schematic". The "schematic"
itself is problematic, because no one knows which of the many ones
out there are "real" .. if any.
So ignoring the schematic... and ignoring all the "plethora" of coils here,
you should be able to connect the antenna lead of the TATE Power
Module to the cylinder capacitor you've made. Ground the TATE
on the negative output. You must have a ground ... and the better
ground you have ... the better you'll do. I can't stress the importance
of this ground for good results with the TATE. The diodes in the TATE
are 1N34. Different gemanium diodes will probably work too. There
is a trade off with respect to how much juice flows thru versus
how delicate the diode is. I've burned out these DIODEs easily
while messing around ... so this is a delicate circuit.
Put across the TATE output a known load ... such as 10K ohm resistor.
Measure voltage across this 10K ohm. Knowing the voltage and the 10K,
you can derive POWER simply using Ohms law.
Our challenge here now is to get that cylinder to receive power.
STEP 1.
Just sitting there on your table, if that cylinder is isolated, you might
get maybe 2mv of voltages (without the 10k .. just with the volt meter --
depending upon your meter). IF there was a coil oscillating NEAR
the cylinder or IN the cylinder or AROUND the cylinder, you will notice
the voltage CLIMB out of the TATE.
So, hook up a signal generator to one of the coils on the Hendershot
coil and pump various frequencies thru that coil. There will be
ONE frequency you find that will MAXIMIZE the power to your TATE
with the 10k load. That will be the resonance freq (Fr) for that coil &
capacitor arrangement. Energy is flowing from signal generator, to coil,
across the air to cylinder cap, and then off to the TATE.
Do this same exercise for each of the coils in turn and right down what
Fr is for each of them.
Now, with all those Fr values in hand, you have an understanding of
what each of those coils would need to be oscillating at to get
the standing waves you need in the capacitor to produce the MOST
power to the TATE.
This approach also gives you the ability to TUNE any of these coils
that are suppose to be the "same" in terms of Fr. If two of the
Hendershot coils are the same number of turns, then they should be
giving you the same Fr. However, due to inaccuracies that accumulate
during winding, you can be off a little. So to make the Fr
match within some tolerance, you can add to or CUT wire off of one
of the coils to make it exactly match the other. I think L3 and L4
are suppose to match, for example. Given that the diameter is the
same for L1 and L2, then using the TURN-ratio between L3 and L4,
you can extrapolate what their Fr values SHOULD be ... and then
tune them accordingly.
Now go over the the 2nd Hendershot coil, and make everything match
your first Hendershot coil, "tuning-wise". Write all this down.
After you have all that done, this is the time possibly to seal things
in wax or paint with varnish or something to HOLD things firmly
in place "post tuning".
Here is where circuit analysis comes in. We need to devise a circuit
schematic that is similar to Hendershot's various schematics,
that maintains proper phasing and frequencies such that we can
get the MOST power to our cylinder devices ... and back again...
into the coils ... and so forth. The TATE would not normally be
LEFT connected to the cylinders after this tuning step.
We just had that connection as a way to help us SEE what was
occurring in this part of the TANK circuit. We could have connected
it to any of the coils too.
So one thought I have about this capacitor is that like a
Van de Graaff generator, if we can set things up so that charges
BUILD on this hand-made capacitor, because of all the oscillating
electro-magnetic fields from the Hendershot coil,
we probably do NOT want to
be connecting anything to that capacitor. It should be isolated
and allowed to "charge up". Think about the statements made
about the Hendershot device and how if its not made properly,
the foil capacitor would suffer BURNs from discharges.
The dielectric constant for Air is such that you need pretty high
voltages to get that sort of damage going .. that sort of arcing.
With a Van de Graaff effect, you certainly can.
There will be large back EMF pluses from the magnet-bar-solenoid
thing, assuming we could make that go. In fact, not knowing
how to make that go doesn't stop you. All you need is some
sort of "chopper" circuit to ACT-LIKE what that thing should be doing.
So with a 555-timer-circuit creating a pulse to an automotive
ignition coil ("circuits found on the web"), for example, you could
dial up and down various frequencies controlled by the timer and
produce a chopping DC voltage in square-wave form into your
Hendershot coils. DC square waves are IDEAL because they have
really RAPID pole reversals -- which make solenoids and magnets
go crazy. But all the big CAPS that Hendershot have are an attempt
to smooth that way down to nice sine waves ... and tweek phasing,
and isolate AC from DC, etc.
So, given that you know all the frequencies involved, we now
need to reverse engineer the schematic (w/o the magnet-bar-solenoid).
Determine what is the best way, by trying various hook up choices
for the Hendershot schematic, and see what works best and what
doesn't. Only then, after determining that part, would I next
try to get the magnet-bar-solenoid to do anything.
Make sense?Last edited by morpher44; 02-06-2013, 12:28 AM.Comment
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receive any power from the magnetic field of the earth
Bob wrote:
>receive any power from the magnetic field of the earth
So I've been thinking about this ... and I think we really want to work
in several stages here.
Just thinking about this problem from a Physics standpoint,
a Physicist will LAUGH at the idea of anyone trying to get power
from the Earth's field. There is 40 to 60uTeslas here. You would
have to SPIN your coil or magnet pretty darn fast, "mechanically",
to generate anything useful. OR, the SIZE of your spinning structure
would need to be megalythic -- Pyramid of Giza size.
This is not practical for the home DIY project.
But, if we were to scale down the physical magnet to something
modest, like 1mTesla magnet, we can clearly make that magnet
spin for a time as it responds to the Earth's field. And a nearby
coil will induce current .. but not very much.
So my thinking here is that we are looking for SEVERAL inventions
that are inter-operating to create a positive feedback situation w/o
violating any of the laws of physics.
So aspects of the design may use "pre-magnetized" material,
and the Earth's field - yes -- and an understanding of the VECTORs
of those fields and orientation of our appliance. It sounds like
"magic", but its physics.
Other aspects of the design may be using a Van De Graff like effect
where coils near LARGE capacitor structures are building charges
onto the surfaces of a diamagnetic material that is being
"massaged", via Lenz's Law, with nearby coils.
The charges are being "collected" from the ambient environment
with very low power, and the time to do this may be a little bit of time depending upon the timing constants involved of the circuit.
As the charges build up, you can create an oscillation that reaches
some equilibrium in terms of power-output depending upon the
rate at which you can collect relative to the rate at which you
consume the power. If you consume less that you collect, it will build
until your circuit, due to capacitance and resistance, imposes an "attenuation" limit,
dropping down the other side of the resonance curve.
So the various challanges here are:
* make a very very low power van de Graff generator
* make a very very low power generator to power the van de Graff
* harvest the charges from the van de Graff and let them
re-enter the circuit using POSITIVE-FEEDBACK.Last edited by morpher44; 02-06-2013, 12:49 AM.Comment
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Tate Power Module.
I believe you are correct in the device I put together as a Tate Power Module. It looks about half the size though in the diagram you referred me to. Meaning half the capacitors and diodes. The people I got that from said the higher the collector was the more voltage you receive. That was what I observed also. I thought 30 feet was high enough. They mentioned hooking the collector to a baloon and running it up a couple of hundred feet. They said it generated quite a charge. Look out Ben Franklin. The man claiming to have received 36 dc volts corresponds to what I received. As for what you have written I will need to take some time and re-read it. Most of it I follow. I do not have a signal generator and haven't a clue where to get one.
From playing around with the Tate device I have a great ground. As I said it is a 3/8" th thick 4x4 steel plate buried four feet down. I have four # 8 stranded copper insulated wires attached to it and about four feet of wire coming out of the ground.
I was playing around with the device this evening and linked the two L-1 coils together and tried to introduce 6 vdc into the coil to see if I could detect any voltage. It did not generate an inductive voltage in the other two coils. I tried introducing the capacitors into the mix to no avail. I trust this is what you are alluding to with the signal generator. I noticed in something I read today, maybe from you, about a weak magnet as opposed to a strong magnet on the solenoid part. I have a relatively weak cylinder magnet with north and south poles. I have the north pole on the left. I do not have it mounted down and have tried switching the poles. I also have a square bar magnet that is very strong. Unfortunately the poles are on the long faces and not the ends. It too did not seem to help.
I totally agree though if we cannot receive any power to the basket weave coils there is no way to use the rest of the device. It is kind of late to do any more this evening. I am in Denver. I will look up signal generators on the net.
I do appreciate your ideas on this. Bob
Originally posted by morpher44 View PostComment
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reply to Bob
Hi Bob,
Yeah the balloon idea sounds interesting but dangerous.
I may do that some day. I found a video of a guy who did that
to power his crystal radio ... and he had enough juice to
drive a PA system from his radio .. no batteries necessary.
This is a dangerous experiment.
I found an old book in Ben Franklin and learned that the way
Ben Franklin did this experiment, is he had OTHERs hold the wire,
and observed that some discharges were enough to
"knock a man over". How would you like to be Ben's assistant?
Wikipedia states 30 volts per foot (100v/m).
You may not have this much because of resistance in wire,
and other factors ... but the danger is there. One wrong move
and you could be in trouble. Lightning arrestors are appropriate.
>I do not have a signal generator and haven't a clue where to get one.
I got mine on ebay ... 2Mhz, 4 wave patterns, works great ... cheap.
This is a "must have" device along with an oscilloscope.
A spectrum analyzer would be good too, or a scope that can do that too.
That would be more pricey.
Btw, a poor-man's pulse generator is done easily with a Relay.
All you do is configure the relay to be a buzzer.
Then connect the leads from the coil of the relay over to another
coil arrangement. You can put a CAP in line to have only AC pass
if the 2nd coil being attached perturbs the relay too much.
When the relay disengages, the BACK EMF from the relay's coil
is directly connected to your circuit under test and gets a HUGE
voltage spike. You can further TUNE what frequency you want
by putting a STRONG magnet near the relay to make it buzz
faster or slower depending upon polarity. I've tried this to great
success and also have found that you can run a 12Volt relay
this way using a 1.5Volt D cell. The magnet provides the EXTRA
kick if put in just the right location near the relay. You have to
move it around and find the sweet spot. This is very Hendershot-esk.
>I do appreciate your ideas on this. Bob
No problem. This is fun stuff.Comment
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L. H. Generator
Hey Morpher
I do not think I would want to be old Ben's assistant either. E-bay would be a great place to look for a signal generator as well as an oscilliscope.
I was kind of thinking about trying to combine the Tessla/ Tate ideas with the Hendershot generator to get it to fire up. I know where I would hook up the outputs on the Tate but not sure where I would feed them into the Hendershot device. Plus the Tate puts out DC and I think the Hendershot does AC. With the pole only at 14 ft high I still was able to generate around 6 volts. I do not know if this would be worthwhile. Just for grins this evening I attached two aluminum ground connectors to the aluminum sheets I lined the two tank coils with to see if I could soak up some power from the great beyond. I connected L-i into it as well as the 500 MFD capacitor in the center of the coils. I figure what do I have to lose? The worst that could happen is nothing will happen. I thought I would let it charge for awhile then check it. So do you have any thoughts where I would feed the Tate device into the Hendershot device?
Bob
Originally posted by morpher44 View PostComment
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uses for the Tate device
Hi Guys/Gals,
Here are some uses for the Tate device.
1. Easy conversion from low-power-high-voltage AC signals to DC.
2. Easy way of measuring power with an added known resistance
and a voltmeter and a calculator and knowledge of Ohms law.
3. A great tool for studying "subtle" ambient energies that are AC
or pulse in nature.
As such, you could use it for studying Hendershot's device, or any other
device your tinkering with that produces AC or pulsed DC.
You just need to take care not to burn your diodes up.
For example, suppose there was a great big aluminum siding WALL
or a large children's slide. You might be able to attached the
Tate's antenna line to these, and then attached the negative to
GROUND, and then measure voltage. On a day that has
plenty of Sun, Wind, and dry weather, these large capacitors
should be charged up, and want yet another path to ground ...
thru your little TATE box.
So really, you don't want a single wire that goes high up,
necessarily. What you really want is a large surface area
for received particle impacts ala Tesla's patent.
That large surface area should be ISOLATED from ground, so that
your TATE is the ONLY path to ground it finds.Comment
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MK1 Idea
Over the weekend I made a honeycomb coil on a cool-whip plastic
container.
http://www.addictedtosaving.com/wp-c...2/11/free1.jpg
I figured out the math and wrote a little program so that I could get
the pyramid angle for wire crossing around this shape.
The algorithm I used calculated that I need two rows of 29 pegs,
seperated by 1.125 inches.
To wrap, you need to skip 3 each time... i.e. skip over two
and bend up or down on the 3rd peg. I used 2 inch NAILS as pegs,
and LEFT THEM in for now to provide additional ferromagnetic material
in the coil structure.
I put a first layer of 100 feet of wire, wound clockwise, looking down
into the container. This is the first coil, L8A-8B.
I then wound a second 100 feet (or so), this one counter clock-wise.
Going with the idea that Hendershot is doing several magnetometer,
amplifications, each coil is to be bucking.
I've experimented with this coil, and a cow magnet wound with its
own coil inside. Powering this circuit is the back EMF from a relay.
I can use several different types of relays but decided to go with
a 12v relay. Magnets can be held against the relay for tuning.
It WORKS!
There is not a lot of power here, but enough to power an LED,
after going thru a bridge rectifier and have a 2200uf CAP for line
filtering.
To run a small motor, I had to power it with about 18v (2 9v batteries).
I also tried hooking up some transformers to the power line,
in the Hendershot way, L25, L22, L19, per the Barry Hilton book.
Interestingly, these serve to either STABALIZE the waveforms,
or make them go chaotic, depending on other variables.
I'm scratching my head over this a bit.
Anyway, I was looking @ this schematic more carefully, and suddenly
it occurs to me ONE possible intepretation of this crazy schematic.
If you look at the close-up of the ONE photo of the plane,
you will notice that the GUTs of the plane look very much like this
arrangement of bobbin coils, and a BIG old motor with a prop on it.
YET, the coil that looks like the so called honeycomb coil
is exposed on the front open section of the plane. This would
be the location of one of the two solenoids that are suppose
to be on either side of the honeycomb coil. It appears to be wound
with AWG 20 plastic covered wire, and have not many turns....
On the circuit diagram, these solenoids, on either side of the
coil with the magnet in it, are wired to a Meg ohm resistor.
That seems odd. Hardly any current would flow through this ODD
section of the circuit.
It suddenly dawned on me that this HAS TO BE the feedback
part of the circuit. These are pickup coils situated on either
side of the MOTOR with the prop, picking up ITS inductive WAKE.
The blocking resistor causes an imbalance so that the energy of these
pickup coils will PULSE ... ever so gently, the metalic structure
behind ... to keep it semi-saturated (a trick used in magnetic
amplifiers). Barry Hilton's book is speculating this is some sort of
gigahertz receiver. I think it has to be something FAR easier to understand.
Its simply two pick up coils near a spinning motor .. used
to produce a small magnetic pulse in the metal behind the motor.
This now calls into question, in my mind anyway, this honeycomb,
magnet thing.
WHAT IF this part of the diagram IS IN THE MOTOR ... and
NOT a honeycomb coil outside it.
We have in the previous pages many pages showing how a motors
was altered to BRING OUT one extra WIRE on a slip-ring from
the center of a pully COIL in the motor.
What if the pully coil is the so called HONEY-COMB coil, with magnet
inside. As the motor spins, the pully-coil spins, the magnet inside
spins.
So what I am proposing as a possible interpretation here is that
Figure 3.2 of Barry Hilton's book, with L8A-B, the tuner coil around
a magnet, etc. could be a detector/collector circuit put into the
pully coil structure of the motor itself.
There are 3 connections OUT of the motor, the two brushes,
and the 3rd so called "antenna" lead.
This weaker magnet in there is being SPUN inside a structure with
bigger magnets around it. As it washes by the various polls
of these magnets, the coil around IT will induce current. That
current is allowed to go in three different branches ...
the antenna "W5" ... and the pully coil -- out towards the brushes
of the motor.
If we interpret things this way, another interesting possibility exists.
The so called feedback circuit that is gently pulsing the coil cores
using L4 and the side "pickup" solenoids, has a metal
resonator plate hovering near it with an AIR GAP.
This resonator is on a "spring" mounting block, implying it can be
PULLED toward the core ... like a RELAY. If it makes a connection
to the metal core (or gets close enough for the dielectric break down
of the air), the ENERGY from the CENTER of the coil around the magnet
deep inside the spinning motor can release a electric SPARK
directly into the metalic core. Such a JOLT would excite those
cores and make them ring for a time... with power being provided
BACK to the motor itself and the load (if attached).
The Barry Hilton books seemed to have a disconnect between
the Figure 2.3 discussion about the mods to the motor,
and this MK1 circuit. But are they NOT suppose to be used WITH
each other.?
And further, where would this great big 3-inch honeycomb coil BE in the
plane? There doesn't seem to be room behind the motor.
So I am speculating ... it is IN the motor.
Make sense GUYS/GALS?Last edited by morpher44; 02-20-2013, 07:06 AM.Comment
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Hendershot's Motor...
More thoughts along the lines that the honeycomb coil for the MK1
is INSIDE the motor....
There is a famous device called the Homopolar generator
(also known as the unipolar generator).
This device is non-intuitive because it generates DC current,
from a constant magnetic field ... and a spinning copper disk.
DC currents are pulled from the AXIS ... and the EDGE of the disk.
Spin the disk faster in the constant magnetic field, more current.
Some speculate these are used to power up gigantic RAIL GUNs,
since such guns need lots of current..
Let is suppose that instead of a DISK, we had a RING magnet.
Let us also suppose that instead of taking power from the edge
of the disk and its axis, we have a coil wrapped around the magnet.
The magnet (with coil around it), can be put into a motor structure
and made to SPIN at high RPMs. Intuition would tell us that since
the magnet and the coil are fixed together and spinning together
that currents will NOT be induced in the coil. YET ... in reality,
there are MORE magnetic fields @ play here. There are the magnets
in the motor itself to content with ... and there is the Earth's field.
Let us suppose that the RING magnet IN the MOTOR was oriented
so that its NORTH face and SOUTH face are along the axis of spin.
The magnets in the motor structure would not SEE or FEEL the
drag from this RING magnet since it is oriented at right-angles
to their push and pull. Precision will be important here so as
not to have this RING magnet wobble in the structure as it spins
on its axis. Wobble will DRAG the motor down.
I propose that currents WILL be induced in a coil around such a
ring magnet, just as you find in the homopolar generator.
Further, the magnetic field that can be tapped can be
parallel with the axis of rotation. Orient the axis of rotation
along the Earth's field, and the MOST power from the homopolar
generator inside your motor will be realized.
The Theory seems sound.... Let's make it....
Hendersho't motor therefore, may pre-date DePalma's N-machine....but
use similar concepts.Last edited by morpher44; 02-20-2013, 07:41 AM.Comment
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MK1 Idea
@morpher
Looking at Figure 3.2 of Barry Hilton's book, I was thinking similar things. Reseaching Induction Compasses and Magnetic Amplifiers I have concluded that the coil within L8a/b wrapped around the magnetic core is a pulser of some type. The center tap will allow one side of the coil to become north and the other side to become south. Depending on the orintation of the magnetic core this could nullify the effects of the magnet for a shot time and when the signal would reverse and release the nullified energy (bemf) to give a pulse to the circuit. But if this is part of the motor section then the effect would increase over a short time as the motor obtained it operating speed, then become self regenerative.
Most of the Induction Compasses back in the 30s - 40s use the air flow from the airplane to rotate a spinning magnet that induced the surrounding coil to indicate which was true north.
By looking at the picture of the toy plane I could not tell if the coil towards the nose of the plane was a honey comb or basket weave (looked more basket weave). I could not tell if the two pickup coils L13 and L14 were on the inside or outside. Some of the Inductions Compasses design of that time had them in both positions. One of the statements made Barry Hilton's book indicated that these coils were inclusive, could this mean within L8 and not on the outside.
You seem to be having more success that I am having but my time is limited at the moment and I still have more research on associated matters of the 30s and 40s in hopes that it will help me understand what knowledge Hendershot was trying to use.
Coils L19, L22, L25 I believe are a resonant magnatic amplifer to boost the voltage to a usable level.
You were speculating that the 3 inch coil did not have enough room behind the motor of the toy plane.
Part of my research was taking the picture and its perspective and depth and flattening it out and measuring all of the inside components as well as the wheels, wings, etc. My base assumption was that the wood stand was 1/4 inch thick. This would make the wheels about 2 inches in diameter and the width of the plane could contain a coil not quite 3 inches in diameter but there would be no room for the 2 coils on the outside (L13, L14).
I do like your idea about part of the circuit is the motor but not the one in Figure 2.3 that is way to big to fit in the space provided behind the propeller and cowling of the toy plane.
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