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  • Hi flumen, thanks for the reply, sounds good, look forward to it.
    Received a christmas gift, a philips 12.5 watt led bulb, 60 watt equivalent. Though it looks to me, more like 65 to 70 watt equivalent and the light is almost identical to an incandescent.
    It gets hot, though not as hot as a 60 watt incandescent.
    Also got a package of 4 - 13 watt cfls, so they can be gutted for testing 3 or 4 in series with the meissner oscillator inverter.
    And the cfls have smaller glass tubes, so that might work better, we will see.
    Also going to wind another 4 ferrite bead core with less secondary turns and see how it will light this led bulb up.
    It says, 110-130 volts at 160 milliamps and it is a dimmable led bulb.
    Here is a pic.


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    peace love light
    tyson

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    • Hi folks, just wanted to share an observation with you flumen or anyone else.
      Just hooked up the new gutted 13 watt cfls, 2 in series with the 4 ferrite bead inverter setup and it has trouble starting them, it takes about 15 seconds, probably to heat up the gas a bit, then they light up to the expected brightness.
      Guess is, since they are smaller diameter glass tubes, they are probably a little bit longer also and this requires more voltage to really kick them on quick.
      Though with the 2 layer secondary, it lights up instantly, a single bulb very bright.
      So, keep this in mind when trying multiple bulbs in series or if only using one layer of secondary, it may have trouble lighting certain kinds of 13 watt cfls, with only the 320 turns secondary on 12 volt input, though 13.8 volt input, will probably have no problem lighting them.
      peace love light
      tyson

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      • SkyWatcher, always good to hear any new developments and info, cheers.
        That new Phillips LED bulb looks futuristic
        My niece sent me a Christmas gift, too. It arrived yesterday. A colour changing bulb! (like yours ) You can also see in the pic my four-bead ferrite rod ready to go.
        Flumen

        Last edited by Flumen; 12-29-2012, 09:33 PM.

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        • Tyson, just a quick question, please - I would like to start by getting just one cfl lit. Which circuit should I use? On the 16th Dec you posted a circuit diagram - A. Meissner Variant, however I see the voltage is 13.8V. I am using a 12V battery - would that 16th Dec. circuit run ok, with the cfl not being as bright as with 13.8V?
          Also, I think you mentioned earlier about capacitor values - I have a salvaged 47nF - but is this exact value crucial to the running of the circuit? (Once it's up and running I'll be able to experiment a bit.)
          Another observation - your circuit of the 6th Dec (page 3) (Super Joule ringer Variant) has 1600 turns on the secondary! Loads more than you're using now, and the PNP transistor. I see it's changed quite a bit. Sorry for all the noobness
          Thanks a lot for helping!
          Flumen
          Last edited by Flumen; 12-29-2012, 06:23 PM.

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          • Hi flumen, thanks for the reply.
            That circuit on the Dec 16th, with 2 layer secondary, total of 640 turns, should have no problem lighting most 13 watt gutted cfls to full brightness on a 12 volt battery input.
            You can adjust the resistor value coming from positive rail to base, of course that would be negative rail to base, if using PNP transistor.
            And if you only wind one secondary layer and it has trouble lighting one 13 watt cfl, you can always reduce the number of turns on the bifilar a bit.
            The capacitor is not crucial, the lower value just seems to run it a little brighter and smoother.
            The 1600 turns might be ok for multiple bulbs in series, though the primary winding starts to get further from the ferrite core and the secondary resistance goes up, only tried 2 layers when testing bulbs in series, so know that works.
            A balance is needed, one reason the ferrite bead core works well to light 2 bulbs at decent brightness, with only a 5 to 1 turns ratio, is probably because the the primary bifilar has a shorter coil length and lower resistance, same with the secondary coils in that case.
            Though the TV yoke core has longer length coil windings and higher resistance, so will not light 2 bulbs in series, even though it has a higher 10 to 1 turns ratio.
            It's all an experiment, even life, any questions are always welcome.
            Cool color changing led bulb, got one similar for me birthday.
            peace love light
            tyson

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            • Hey Tyson, I got it working!
              I like the way it reliably turns on every time (unlike other circuits I've tried where sometimes I have to tap a few time before she runs).
              Observations:
              - I didn't cut off enough primary wire and so had fewer turns, which might explain the high current draw of 960 mA. I'm using a 23W gutted CFL.
              - The 270 Ohm resistor gets hot (but the transistor is only slightly warm).
              - Another thing I've found is that the amp draw increases slowly over time with these circuits - could that be due to heat, or general imbalance within the circuit?
              Overall I'm glad I got this to run and will now experiment a bit and try to get the amp draw/brightness thing sorted. Ideally I think 500 mA would be ok.
              Many thanks for your guidance with this, Tyson!



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              Last edited by Flumen; 12-30-2012, 10:24 PM.

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              • Hi flumen, awesome, great work.
                Can't say much about adjustments with the 23 watt, as have not done much tests with that size bulb.
                Though increasing the resistance at the 1 Kohm resistor coming in from the negative to base when using a PNP will lower the amps and light output.
                If you have a potentiometer, put it in series with that resistor and then adjust it to your liking, then check what the resistance is with a meter, then you can replace it with a normal resistor.
                The base resistor used in the 13 watt cfl setup is using a 470 ohm resistor, you can either get a higher wattage one or use a couple in series or parallel to handle the heat, for whatever base resistance you choose.
                Glad this device is useful to you and feel free to ask questions or share.

                Well, returned that space age looking led bulb today, it worked well, only problems were.
                It got way to hot for my liking and had dimmable circuitry inside, which preventing from using the simple inverter or any other joule ringer type circuits, though it had very nice color and light output.
                So instead, picked up a 10.5 watt philips led bulb and it works great with the simple inverter, will be trying the Meissner oscillator with it next.
                The color of the bulb is a tad whiter than incandescent, more halogen like, but very nice and bright.
                In the picture, it is drawing 640 milliamps at 12 volts or 7.7 watts and is very bright.
                The bulb is rated at 800 lumens-60 watt equivalent, though at full brightness, looks a bit brighter than that.


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                Uploaded with ImageShack.us
                peace love light
                tyson

                Edit: oh yes, amp draw increases because the cfl tube heats up and allows more current to flow through the gas.
                Last edited by SkyWatcher; 12-31-2012, 04:11 AM.

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                • Tyson, thanks for your reply and all the help you've given me with this project. Now I've got it up and running I will do more experiments.
                  Happy New Year!

                  Flumen

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                  • Hi flumen, thanks for the reply and the kind gesture, your more than welcome.
                    Hey, just want to let you know, tested the TIP42 PNP again and also had a TIP42C PNP to test as well.
                    Both performed about the same, using 370 ohm base trigger to base resistor and 500 ohm negative rail to base resistor.
                    The 13 watt gutted cfl was probably 75-80% of full brightness.
                    Though with the 2n3055, it goes to full brightness, using the 4 ferrite bead core and the TV yoke core, though with that transistor, used a 470 ohm trigger to base resistor.
                    So, would definitely recommend the 2n3055, for better heat handling and light output if needed.
                    peace love light
                    tyson
                    happy new year

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                    • Hand Lamp

                      Happy New Year to all... Dupe
                      Attached Files

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                      • Just a quick update. Tyson, I tried a gutted 13W CFL and experimented with the resistance at the base as you suggested. I'm happy to report that I found the 500mA I was looking for and very usable brightness from the bulb, and now the resistor is cool and the transistor is only very slightly warm after hours of running the circuit. (In the pic below there are two unlit bulbs beside the lit one: the smaller type CFL, similar to the lit one, and the 23W bulb that I was using in the first set-up.) I also added some extra turns on the primary and added another layer of secondary to achieve this. On Sunday I'll get another of these 13W bulbs and see if I can light two with this set-up. Still haven't experimented with the capacitor - I guess that will be trial and error
                        I also tried a different transistor - an old BDY24, and I found that that changed the Amp draw a little - I found differences between different transistors of the same type.
                        So, good news, and thanks again. And it would be good to hear from others experimenting with these SkyWatcher circuits.
                        Cheers
                        Flumen

                        P.S. Hey Dupe, any more info on your Hand Lamp...?



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                        Last edited by Flumen; 01-01-2013, 09:57 PM.

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                        • Hand Lamp

                          Hi Flumen, It's a modified CFL with a disposable camera flash gutted and mounted into the base. The output from the circuit is high enough to light the tube which is powered from a "AAA" battery also fitted into the base. The lamp is activated by holding a coins conductive surface across the lower threaded part of the ES base and its pip... thus acting as a switch!

                          Put it together as a fun "LOOK NO WIRES" party trick about three years ago.http://www.energeticforum.com/images...es/blowout.gif

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                          • Originally posted by Dupe View Post
                            Hi Flumen, It's a modified CFL with a disposable camera flash gutted and mounted into the base. The output from the circuit is high enough to light the tube which is powered from a "AAA" battery also fitted into the base. The lamp is activated by holding a coins conductive surface across the lower threaded part of the ES base and its pip... thus acting as a switch!

                            Put it together as a fun "LOOK NO WIRES" party trick about three years ago.http://www.energeticforum.com/images...es/blowout.gif
                            That's great, Dupe!
                            Are you using a AAA Fuji circuit? I could never get CFLs to light with a Fuji AAA. They would with a Fuji AA circuit, but not that bright.
                            How did you mod it - cut/short the diode? Did you remove/change any resistors? Is the power coming off where the cap was? Sorry for the barrage of questions.

                            Flumen

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                            • Hand lamp

                              Hi Flumen, No I don't mind the questions. It was a few years ago when I moded it so can't remember all the details now, come to think of it it may have been an "AA" battery I fitted but not sure. Out of curiosity when I get some spare time I'll dismantle it and take a look for you. Regards Dupe

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                              • Hi folks, Hi flumen, glad you got it working to your liking.
                                Hi dupe, thanks for sharing the disposable camera circuit light.
                                Those single use cameras are way too costly, though will see if the dollar tree has any and if they will work, then again, have heard of people getting the used ones for free at certain stores.
                                Going to R.S. tomorrow to replace all the 2n3055's that blew on joule ringer experiments and also get some medium size and smaller transistors for some new experiments.
                                Next goal is to get decent light and efficiency from gutted cfl, using 1-3 volts or 1 to 2 AA rechargeables, may see if the dollar store has any smaller 9 watt cfls to gutt for the lower voltage tests.
                                Also made a few tests with the TV yoke transformer, though have no doubt the ferrite bead core would work just the same.
                                Rewired it to the simple joule thief and also the meissner circuit works good also and placed the new led bulb across the collector and emitter of 2n3055 and it lights a 13 watt non-modified cfl to decent brightness at 12 volt input, though the transistor gets a little warm after awhile.
                                Though using the led bulb, it puts out more light for the same input and the transistor is only slightly warm.
                                So, a quick and easy way to get light, if one needed it, though don't think it is as efficient as using the dual transistor simple inverter or the Meissner circuit lighting the gutted cfls.
                                Will keep you folks updated on results of experiments.
                                Thanks for sharing.
                                peace love light
                                tyson

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