Re-Inventing The Wheel-Part1-Clemente_Figuera

[Ufopolitics]

Hi Ufo,

Not sure if this provides solution, but try an variac, or variable auto transformer on the output of the inverter. Or maybe a fixed step down transformer. Heck, even a wall-wart.

Regards,

bi

Hello Bistander,

Any help is appreciated!, I don't have a Variac, but have it on my wish list...

Now, according to all I have learned about Inverters -which is not much btw- is that the cut off circuit is basically monitoring the Input side, where it constantly reads Battery levels and it is programmed to cut off power at like 11 some volts or whenever amps can't satisfy the load...since there is another "smart" circuit set at output, reading load characteristics to then send it via opto-coupler (EL817) back to Input Control Circuit.

Above I was referring to a simple 750W $39.99 Harbor Freight Inverter, the issue here is that it sucks like 4.9 A from Battery to deliver like 119V at one of the outputs, when connected to exciter, which is fine until I load the same drill I was using before with the mechanical switch, and I could press trigger all the way...now with this setup I can't do that... amps rise on both ends and shuts off inverter.

Also, it fails to respond when I connect the parallel AC Cap to exciter...it don't shut off output, but becomes non responsive.

Battery was pretty low, so I charged it last night, and today I will be doing some more testing...

I believe a more reliable unit to work with here would be the APC Back up (which has the same square simulated wave), since it has an auto circuit to disconnect batteries once AC Power is restored, which is great for self looping system from one of the high end voltage outputs of generating coils. Plus is designed to run with batteries for like 15 minutes which is enough to get generation going, fill caps banks to retro-feed the system.

Therefore, I am more concern about not to spent that much amperage at Input which would regulate Output power...and so, I may wind a finer wire exciter to see if it works at much lower amps with it...it is just a matter of finding the right combination to success.


Thanks again and regards


Ufopolitics

[bistander]

Maybe

Hello to All, ...

This way we could regulate the power In, hence the power out.
...

Any Input would be appreciated!!


Thanks and Regards to All


Ufopolitics

Hi Ufo,

Not sure if this provides solution, but try an variac, or variable auto transformer on the output of the inverter. Or maybe a fixed step down transformer. Heck, even a wall-wart.

Regards,

bi

[Ufopolitics]

Power Inverter Modified Sinewave...

Hello to All,

When I was making the video below, plus all tests and studies involved...:

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7OzMURRU_k[/VIDEO]

The Single signal used by the CRT's to either one of their coils (horizontal or vertical, either one must be isolated to read it as a single wave on Scope)...and all this signal do, is to switch (REVERSE) magnetic fields in order to obtain a full Line across fluorescent screen...

Recently I came to realize that also a "Modified" Sinewave from a Power Inverter could work (replacing the mechanical switch, PLUS the PSU feeding the Exciter Coil) just because of its similarity to the one generated by my mechanical switch...:



I had a cheap, 750W Inverter which I test it on my exciter coil...and the good news are that...YES, it works as well as the switch does!!...BUT NOT THAT SIMPLE as a "Plug and Play" component works... I had to make some modifications to the Overload Protection Circuit...and still it needs much more work...Like being able to regulate Input Power as Output Power

Typically a Power Inverter is an Input (DC) Amps Hog...and so depending on the AC load you are adding to it...Input from battery could go as high as 25 amps...and if the Inverter is not suited to provide such wattage at output, its overload switch will turn it off. Normally they are designed to be installed on a running car battery, where the vehicle alternator is constantly supplying the required very high amps.

My mechanical switch works fine and dandy...and it could be regulated by a simple knob...same as my PSU's...however, I have decided to disclose this important fact for those who are more into electronics...and to modify one of these units would be very simple to achieve.

A Typical Power Inverter is not that complicated as it seems...it have a DC-DC Boost Converter at its Input, to rise Voltage up from 12V to 120V...then each terminal (- & +) goes into a couple of transformers to a couple of FET's which do the reversed-alternated signals.

My next testing would be with an old APC unit or Backup Units...which uses 24V DC from two small batteries...

If anyone here have done this kind of work...like making a REGULATED Power Inverter, where we could:

Basically, BYPASS Overload Cut Off Switch, in order that it could still OUTPUT BELOW the programmed Battery rates, which are like 11.0V as also -I believe- it should have a Minimal Amp rate as well.

This way we could regulate the power In, hence the power out.

All I did was to eliminate the On-Off small board by using the pos from battery directly to Overload board positive, leaving all small voltage grounds off...but the buzzing sound from low power keeps going on...but allowing enough time as to watch all Coils Generating Output going On perfectly well...

I believe IMO, that an APC (Backup Module) since it works with lower amperage and higher Input Voltage (24V) than a car inverter...it should be easier to modify since all FET's are designed to work within a wider range of power supply.

Any Input would be appreciated!!


Thanks and Regards to All


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Both Outputs being loaded...

Hello L192,

Here I am powering up AC drill directly from inner generating coil, as lamp is lighting from outer coil...



And yeah, here the Input Voltage was risen to 60V and 2A...

Ok, so far everything looks good...so now time to keep working...I have to keep rewiring nicely all connectors for Videos...plus I want to wind a 14 awg Outer Coil which would output much serious Voltages...plus, it could be series connected to Inner one...or in parallel...or as a three way output with two live and a neutral...etc,etc.


Regards and have ALL a nice weekend!!


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Output DC Cap On and Off Readings...

Hello L192,

Now here a quick test with and without DC Cap connected to Output while lighting the halogen bulb.

First, the Input:



Cap Off:



Note the Scope Blue Channel (like saw-tooth wave) rises from zero to top...:



Now Cap is ON:



And Scope zoom:



Now note the signal is not rising from zero line, and Wave have changed to more of a Triangular shaped form...as the readings on both V&A has risen a bit...this is normal I guess?


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Test with new AC Cap...

Hi L192,

I could only get a 70uF _+6%/400V...didn't have any bigger...and, yes... it still did make a difference...spikes were shortened considerably on both ends, plus it allowed me to drive Input PSU up to almost 70V(Max limit) with the same 2.0 Input Amps.

This allowed me to drive switch up to 3600 RPM's and still increasing Output Amps.

Here are a couple of pics of the new AC Cap and shorting DC Input with amp meter while reading Max Amps (9.5A) and still showing over 1.0 Volt:



Now a close up to Scope to see Blue Chanel (2) connected to shorted DC output, showing the 1.0 V DC Ripple wave. Yellow Chanel (1) is connected to Input just like on previous tests (right off the AC Cap Terminals), which are in Parallel to Exciter Coil and to rotary switch Coil terminals (Bright Green wire).



Wanted to say I have NOT installed the Output DC Cap (1000uf/200V) yet on this pics.

Next I would do install DC Cap...but for now am checking AC Output directly from both generating coils to AC Tools and comparing results to previous AC Cap runs.


Thanks L192!!


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Gathering Components and Material...

Hi UFO,

Two 500uf caps in parallel is 1000uf.

Your power doesn't halve, as the area (power) of the V & A positive going and negative going parts of the square waveform, remains the same.

The power areas are now just both positive going, after the full wave bridge rectifier.

Regards

L192

Hello L192,

Yesterday I've got two 1000 uF/200V Caps...I thought they would be more bulky and bigger than the 100V/1000uF...but nope, they are actually smaller...but am gonna start by using just one first for filtering.

Today I am getting more 14 awg ESSEX wire to build the outer secondary on this length geometry.

Then after, I will pick up either an 80 or 100 uF running AC Cap (whichever one they have in stock or closer to it) for the exciter...

It is good to know power would remain the same after diodes...


Thanks!!


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Listener192]

Power In Power Out

Hi UFO,

Two 500uf caps in parallel is 1000uf.

Your power doesn't halve, as the area (power) of the V & A positive going and negative going parts of the square waveform, remains the same.

The power areas are now just both positive going, after the full wave bridge rectifier.

Regards

L192

[Ufopolitics]

Hi UFO,

Your half peak to peak amplitude looks to be about 150V, so a 200V electrolytic would work for smoothing after the bridge rectifier.

Ok located them at NTE Electronics...

You only need one cap but the ripple that will appear on the DC when you load the DC output will slew any power measurement, so a 1000uf would not be unreasonable for 60Hz operation.

Regards

L192

Which means in English... I would be ok with 1000uF, but better if more than one, so when in parallel will rise capacitance?

I want the readings and the smoothing to be as best as possible...

And You are completely right...the bridge actually cuts, splits all negative wave signal, leaving only upper wave (positive square plus spikes) ...but that's cutting like half power right?

Thanks!!


Ufopolitics

[Listener192]

Power In Power Out

Hi UFO,

Your half peak to peak amplitude looks to be about 150V, so a 200V electrolytic would work for smoothing after the bridge rectifier.

You only need one cap but the ripple that will appear on the DC when you load the DC output will slew any power measurement, so a 1000uf would not be unreasonable for 60Hz operation.

Regards

L192

[Ufopolitics]

Hi UFO,

I would start at to 80 to 100uf and see how much it reduces the spike by.

This should help your rotary switch live longer too.

Oil/paper caps are usually pretty durable.

Ok, so I will get them ordered...

I am just thinking about the DC smoothing cap you are going to try with 100V rating. It will see half peak to peak of your waveform, after the full wave bridge.

Regards

L192

So it should be 200+ V rating in order to see a full peak to peak wave... right?

Just one cap would do?


Thanks


Ufopolitics

[Listener192]

Hi UFO,

I would start at to 80 to 100uf and see how much it reduces the spike by.

This should help your rotary switch live longer too.

Oil/paper caps are usually pretty durable.

I am just thinking about the DC smoothing cap you are going to try with 100V rating. It will see half peak to peak of your waveform, after the full wave bridge.

Regards

L192

[Ufopolitics]

Hi UFO,

Sure call it 100W input.

Deal L192...

I was thinking a full wave bridge rectifier with cap(s). 500uf should even out the ripple probably at least 200V with those big spikes. 1000uf would be better.

I have a 10 cap bank, 1000uF, 100v...it may work....

No one can easily disagree with DC power measurements.

Ok...

Increasing the value of your exciter cap would likely reduce the amplitude of the big spikes.

L192

Exciter AC Cap is 40uF 300V one of my Meccalte Generator running caps...what size increase do you think?

These Generators running AC caps are not available on local stores, the more common ones are Motor running caps, which are based on oil and all metal outside...not sure if they will work as well on this system.

I have a few 460-552 MFD 110 VAC which are Start Caps...they are too big to work well with this set up.


Cheers


Ufopolitics

[Listener192]

Power In Power Out

Hi UFO,

Sure call it 100W input.

I was thinking a full wave bridge rectifier with cap(s). 500uf should even out the ripple probably at least 200V with those big spikes. 1000uf would be better.

No one can easily disagree with DC power measurements.

Increasing the value of your exciter cap would likely reduce the amplitude of the big spikes.

L192

[Ufopolitics]

Hi UFO,

... it would be difficult to be sure about the power of that square/spikey alternating waveform...

L192

I meant to comment on your "description" about that wave...it made me laugh...

Did you ever heard about the "h wave"?:



It would be good if you do some research about it...

John Bedini (RIP) produced it on his oscillators...and below are some other Thread on this Forum about it, as there is vast info on line about it:

The "h" wave form

Also on OU.com a Thread named:

KAPANADZE COUSIN-DALLY FREE ENERGY



Only thing is...those previous waves were either Positive or Negative...very rare to see them MIRRORED on both sides of the zero line...but now we have it "alternated" and very symmetrical (even pos-neg values)...


Regards



Ufopolitics