Thanks! It is efficient and uses sticks, so it works for my situation. I like your heater, too!
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Friction heater running in my house
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Want some help?
Gabriel
Have you been able to calculate your efficiency?
I see some nice people offering up some comments [you tube]about resistive heaters.
have any of those nice folks offered to help you calculate your output?
you can get a rock solid calorimetry value for peanuts,plus it will help you
refine your model.....
Thx
ChetIf you want to Change the world
BE that change !!
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Originally posted by RAMSET View PostGabriel
Have you been able to calculate your efficiency?
I see some nice people offering up some comments [you tube]about resistive heaters.
have any of those nice folks offered to help you calculate your output?
you can get a rock solid calorimetry value for peanuts,plus it will help you
refine your model.....
Thx
Chet
I was hoping that some people would build something like what I have so that we could compare the outputs of the BTUs and power usage.
That is why I am willing to help anyone who would like to build one.
I am working with a local HVAC company that is testing this to see what the BTUs are. I would like to have more hand and eyes on this then just mine. I am sure with some refining that this could be a very good way to heat all kinds of things.
Thank you
Gabriel
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slapstick
have you put a tank circuit on it yet to lower the power usage. A friend and I have done this to a 3 /4 horsepower a 1 horsepower and a 10 horsepower motor and it worked very well.Last edited by rosehillworks; 11-18-2012, 07:46 AM.William Reed
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you'll Probably have this done today
Gabe
wrap that heat vessel in a manifold, styrofoam or whatever ,,make it water tight [put a plastic bag inside when your done].
or better yet if you can slip it into a tank ?
No the elec motor is not going to be a part of this heat test ,yes that is not completely fair because your motor makes heat too...
however,
you are really going to like finding out "what you got "!!
There is a line in the sand ...one side of the line people yawn and scratch their shorts.....say, yeah no big deal.
The other side of that line ................
the line for heating water ?
roughly
you take 0.1 kwh , thats exactly how it will look on your KWH meter [0.1]
one liter of water 120 degrees temp rise.
two liters 60 degrees
etc etc
thats unity [well close enough for this test]
so when your done building the tank ,measure its volume
do the math.
don't start your test until the temp of all components has stabilized.
Conversely you will have to let it "sit a bit" after the test due to your "stored heat issues".
That being said if you hit the line [temp rise] at shut down,
Do the happy dance.
one other thing that you should do is a control run, take a cheap immersion heater with your exact same water volume and run 0.1 kwh of power
check the temp.
I have simplified the process, before you do a run call me.
Chetkremens@gmail.com
PS
One thing I should mention
if you cross that line,your life is going to change [along with everyone elses.......]Last edited by RAMSET; 11-18-2012, 01:53 PM.If you want to Change the world
BE that change !!
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Hi Slapstick and All,
I wanted to build one of these for a number of years and have been collecting # 10 can steel lids that were cut out from the top of cans to build my version of it. I have probably 30 or so now, but have not drilled them to mount to a shaft yet.
I could use your help so that I don't have to go through the same 1,000,000 test versions and experience the same bugs you have found.
There is a drive motor energy saving circuit called the Rotoverter that does spin a 1 horsepower 3 phase motor on about 20 watts (or less depending on bearings etc...) - no load. I don't know the amount of motor torque that your heater requires, but if it can spin very freely, and doesn't use gobs of motor torque, then the Rotoverter might be a good swap for your 500 watts no load motor.
One question I have is my #10 can lids have corrigations in them (concentric ridges). If I use them, then I would need matching ridges or rings for the stationary disks?
I know Konehead of EVGRAY forum built one similarly and used 1/4 nuts each side of disks on allthread but his didn't work out too well. There have been a few others with sucess and others not. Do I need to have a machine shop for the close tolerances?
Anyway, Congrats on your progress and willingness to share.
KenLast edited by kenssurplus; 11-19-2012, 12:27 AM.
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Hi slapstick,
I just LOVE making these gadgets. If its about heat and add a word "efficient" in it, I am hooked
So... I understand you want someone to build one and test for them selves. I dont post much but I do replicate things but in this case I will have a professional metal cutting store build one from scratch. Only thing I have a problem with is if it is possible to have any sort of sketches?
How you hook stationary discs and how do you hook driving discs?
How is central rotating axle secured and how it is insulated?
Are discs completely round and flat or with holes ?
diameter of central axle?
Have many more questions, if you can answer these few and maybe someone can have a go on sketches, I will build one in record time.
You see I can go with above on a hints from my head, its all clear here on first view BUT it is different when replicating, everything needs to be the same as you made it, otherwise results will be irrelevant!
Its much harder this way for production.
So once more, bear with me or if some other members could offer drawing services for all and I will most certainly make one!
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slapstick,
It is wonderful to behold the device you have shared, and I would like to propose modifications.
The amount of heat output you've got may be improved through the addition of copper heat pipes through the oil tank leading to a heat exchanger and fresh air supply.
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More later
slapstick
Here is what I am think
using an oil pump to inject oil in to the center shaft and out into the automotive style bushing should allow the fixed disks to self center.
What do you think of thisAttached FilesLast edited by rosehillworks; 11-20-2012, 03:13 AM.William Reed
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Hello everyone
I will be getting back to everyone soon. I just had a B-day and now leaving town for the holidays. If you can watch all of my youtube Videos I am sure it will answer most of the questions you have. Feel free to Email me 2 Yardwarrior@hotmail.com or ill respond in this forum after the Holidays.
YouTube channel is "oilpiggy"
Thank you
Gabriel
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Originally posted by rosehillworks View Postslapstick
Here is what I am think
using an oil pump to inject oil in to the center shaft and out into the automotive style bushing should allow the fixed disks to self center.
What do you think of this
I think that the heat will be to high for that style of bearing but it is worth a try.
The rest of it looks just like the inside of the heater core.
Thank you
Gabriel
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Just a real fast post: Something that I have learned in the last 24 hours is that the oil I was using was failing me. After using a no contact laser, where the discs are the heat was over the smoke point and was burning the oil. Kinda scary could of been a bomb
Well the good new is I found a MUCH better oil, White Mineral Oil fits the bill just fine. It is a little more costly but what the hell its just money Well the money this has already saved me it is all worth the trials and tribulations
Thank you
Gabriel
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Originally posted by ekpod View Postslapstick,
It is wonderful to behold the device you have shared, and I would like to propose modifications.
The amount of heat output you've got may be improved through the addition of copper heat pipes through the oil tank leading to a heat exchanger and fresh air supply.
Something I would like to build is the same design like mine but having the core its self rotating in the other direction of the drive discs. The only thing I think this will do is lower the over all RPS of the motor maybe come up to temp a little faster. I really wont know until I build one lie this.
I just like the fact that there is so few parts moving.
P.S. NO holes in the discs, it makes cavitation and that then is a very different heater you would be making. That would a water hammer style system.
Thank you
GabrielLast edited by slapstick; 11-20-2012, 11:51 PM.
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