The GEGENE : a Great Efficiency GENErator with a Tesla bifilar coil

[BroMikey]

4500 watts of halo lights 9 bulbs at 500 watts each smoking
in the frying pan just as brightly lit as they will ever be with
an input of 1400 watts to the induction cooker.


2nd GEGENE Demonstration - lighting 4500 watts worth of halogen bulbs.


[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9gtdajzaJ0w[/VIDEO]

[BroMikey]

Bifilar coil free energy source. The motor maybe acting

as the spark gap in the video circuit.



IT (induction transformer) - "output recuperation"





[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFg9h_gGrFg[/VIDEO]

[BroMikey]

fast and intensive charge of battery may be able to get whole system running balanced;
what would be needed here is a nice battery (BatCap) or set of UltraCaps to buffer an extra energy and sine-wave inverter (total load is 1.8kW);
on this principle of recuperation energy versions of setups would be endless...it's does not violate any Physics law and that how i believe the Vorktex, M-G and E-Mag are working...they have previously loaded sources (battery, caps), which are recuperating while system's running (for long period of time)...


Hi Igor as I am also trying to make a self running example I wonder if you could tell me what diodes you use for your bridge?? Do they get hot? I have a system that reduces the energy out through another coil to the DC voltage needed for the inverter. Keep up the great work you will succeed. These self running generators could easily be used to power an electric car change the world bro


oh, yes, magnacoaster has a MEG (motionless version), similar to this one (of course when build professionally); you need a hi-intense (power) pulses to feed a "power storage unit" and balanced input/output load (to match ability of charging part), and they do it by PowerCoil triggered by TROS (similar to induction one) to charge block of batteries with discharge to inverter... motion version do it the same way with alternator (working on it) cheers








IT (induction transformer) - "synchronizer" II



[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWZi3JCBtLM[/VIDEO]

[BroMikey]

Saving the diodes




IT (induction transformer) - "rectifier"


[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VwPmUNCN_M[/VIDEO]

[quantumfanatic]

Closed Loop system

Hi Mike

I am also investigating this system and at this stage i am running 2 x 210 liter water heaters and all my lights and security lights from it,applying 2000 watt and gaining a woping 5000 watt,so what I am saying is that I put in 2000watt and I draw 7000 watt ,what I have found is that the frequency is not compatible to most electronic stuff and fridges,however I found that season and the sun plays some role in the wattage applied,the reason I say this is after quite some experimentation i found the voltage from the coil can differ depending on the time of day and whether it is cloudy or not.
My question to you is how to make this system into a closed loop,i.e a self running system,I must add that I measure between 980V and 1200V at some stages and find it very difficult to measure the current but sometimes I get a reading of 15 Amp and sometimes nothing.
I would really like to get this system to work on all appliances but do not know how to rectify the voltage and the frequincy.
I would really appreciate help in this regard.(schematics would help a lot)

Regards

paul

[BroMikey]

Hi Mike

I am also investigating this system and at this stage i am running 2 x 210 liter water heaters and all my lights and security lights from it,applying 2000 watt and gaining a woping 5000 watt,so what I am saying is that I put in 2000watt and I draw 7000 watt ,what I have found is that the frequency is not compatible to most electronic stuff and fridges,however I found that season and the sun plays some role in the wattage applied,the reason I say this is after quite some experimentation i found the voltage from the coil can differ depending on the time of day and whether it is cloudy or not.
My question to you is how to make this system into a closed loop,i.e a self running system,I must add that I measure between 980V and 1200V at some stages and find it very difficult to measure the current but sometimes I get a reading of 15 Amp and sometimes nothing.
I would really like to get this system to work on all appliances but do not know how to rectify the voltage and the frequincy.
I would really appreciate help in this regard.(schematics would help a lot)

Regards

paul

Thats Great Paul

I don't know where to start, you are taking my breath away

just thinking about your statement. It looks like free energy

is smashing all of the dogma to bits. It is about time considering

that the average investigators including Tesla has been called

a liar for over 100 years now.


Yes well let's get on with it. The filter networks Don Smith used

work. I know that everyone MUST use the same filtering method

because that is all there is, at ground level, without using high

powered converters. That being an RC or LC network.


In my early days of RF, IF and AF I loved to look at all of the

regenerative radio circuits for one reason is where we all learn filtering.


And like all circuits it takes time to find the key that unlocks

that door.



What we learned in radio helps us all to see the process of changing

signals down to audible levels. In the case of radio such as the

superhetrodyning types we learn that multiple stages are generally nothing

more than RC and LC networks did accomplish the task of making

it possible to translate RF in sound.


I picked Don Smith as a man who did this because everyone has

at one time or another noticed this mans work in this area of

overunity application.


The progress that you have is so good to hear about that I am

beside myself with the knowledge, because of the work of a few

of the Extra energy investigators the real truth is finally all coming

forward.


I think that a place to start with your request is to give the guys

here who are far more experienced at filtering a reading of voltage

on the output, of which you already have done.


Then, if you are using a 110vac input or a 220vac input will help

also. The ways to do this are many. An idea is to have a large battery

bank (A bit pricey) that catches all or some of the high frequency

energy, then inverters can power your devices.


And since inverters are needed to power the input this needs to be

something we all look at. My mind goes back to all of the John Bedini

training films where often a conversion consists of charging up

a cap or a bank of them, disconnecting momentarily and placing the

energy over the load.


This is all classified as "THE METHOD OF CONVERSION"


Either way you have the wheels tuning now and it is only a matter

of time before we achieve the next level of energy manipulations.


OverUnity devices dependent on resistive outputs can be transformed.


I will be thinking about your question and have high hopes that

those listening in who are way past me will blow some wind into

your sails.

You Sir are leading the way, surely others will come forward now.

BroMikey

[BroMikey]

Gegene wave form

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NAqreuc9LwI[/VIDEO]


[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZwFAHT6DtY[/VIDEO]

[BroMikey]

Something can be learned from everyone, even this guy

with his superficial tickering. Pans and coils, one coil

he says read 140volts on the bifilar then he made another

slightly larger still fitting on the induction burner surface

area. The little bit bigger bifilar gave a reading of 1500 volts

so this is very significant. Worth the watch for small details.

I think I posted this video before? But I just noticed the

voltage readings.




GeGene and induction stove investigating


[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zlBsDE4rEs[/VIDEO]

[quantumfanatic]

Filtering

Hi Mike

Thanks for your reply,let me explain what I have done in a bit more detail and what I have in mind for the future,which I hope can make this system self running and at least running at unity.My ultimate goal is not to be dependent on grid power or gas driven generators or to claim over unity,but simply to save money or to pay nothing for electricity.

I found one pancake coil to work nice, but strangely enough it works better if you place another identical coil on top of the first coil,and then draw the power from the first coil to power the water heaters and the second coil to power the lighting(i found that you must not connect the two coils together as this makes it totally ineffective and makes you loose half the output).

When you measure the output voltage of the coils you will find that they differ by a mere 100V, so what I have found is that contrary to theory and what the books says, you can use two coils, and I believe,although I have not tried it yet, that I can add a third coil and still get better results.This will eventually end as the distance between the primary,secondary and the third coil will affect the output of the third coil.
I thought about a battery bank and inverters(to expensive) but also about a large capacitor bank to rectify the power and then a signal detector to rectify the signal because I am sure the signal is much to high for most appliances.
So the question now is what size caps to use,how many and how to build a signal detector to rectify the signal?

(I don't have a scope to do proper measurements, but can at least measure the voltage,although I am not sure whether I am correct,all I know is it works well on resistive loads,and that is what draws most power and costs me the most)
I ran my fridges on this power and they were noisy and the motors got hot and that tells me the signal is incorrect,so be warned,a microwave,TV sets and anything electronic will get damaged or will be destroyed,ask me ,had to buy a new oven for the wife.
So you see mike,I am trying this thing out by trial and error and got it to save me money so far, with relatively a small amount of money spent,That's why I joined this forum,to find out more and share what I have learned as I am not an electronics expert at all, but can at least do some calculations and simple measurements.

I was thinking to build an inverter as found in the attachment but I am not sure whether it will do the job,have a look and tell me what you think.
Here is the schematic of my setup



Regards

Paul

[BroMikey]

Hi Mike

Thanks for your reply,let me explain what I have done in a bit more detail and what I have in mind for the future,which I hope can make this system self running and at least running at unity.My ultimate goal is not to be dependent on grid power or gas driven generators or to claim over unity,but simply to save money or to pay nothing for electricity.

I found one pancake coil to work nice, but strangely enough it works better if you place another identical coil on top of the first coil,and then draw the power from the first coil to power the water heaters and the second coil to power the lighting(i found that you must not connect the two coils together as this makes it totally ineffective and makes you loose half the output).

When you measure the output voltage of the coils you will find that they differ by a mere 100V, so what I have found is that contrary to theory and what the books says, you can use two coils, and I believe,although I have not tried it yet, that I can add a third coil and still get better results.This will eventually end as the distance between the primary,secondary and the third coil will affect the output of the third coil.
I thought about a battery bank and inverters(to expensive) but also about a large capacitor bank to rectify the power and then a signal detector to rectify the signal because I am sure the signal is much to high for most appliances.
So the question now is what size caps to use,how many and how to build a signal detector to rectify the signal?

(I don't have a scope to do proper measurements, but can at least measure the voltage,although I am not sure whether I am correct,all I know is it works well on resistive loads,and that is what draws most power and costs me the most)
I ran my fridges on this power and they were noisy and the motors got hot and that tells me the signal is incorrect,so be warned,a microwave,TV sets and anything electronic will get damaged or will be destroyed,ask me ,had to buy a new oven for the wife.
So you see mike,I am trying this thing out by trial and error and got it to save me money so far, with relatively a small amount of money spent,That's why I joined this forum,to find out more and share what I have learned as I am not an electronics expert at all, but can at least do some calculations and simple measurements.

I was thinking to build an inverter as found in the attachment but I am not sure whether it will do the job,have a look and tell me what you think.
Here is the schematic of my setup



Regards

Paul

Thanks Paul

Great progress and diagrams for someone working with

just the basics. I guess the scope is just a relative view

that people get use to looking at and doesn't get the OU.


The OU is had through trial and error, good work. Also the

free energy inverter is a cool idea.

Now that we all have the input of 220 vac and we see

the two bifilars, one on top of the other gives us something

to work with. I have heard of 2 bifilars, one on top of the other.



Good also to note that sun and time of day effect output just

like I heard John Bedini say. Yes give us some time and some

will read this later and chime in.

[BroMikey]

Hi Mike

Thanks for your reply,let me explain what I have done in a bit more detail and what I have in mind for the future,which I hope can make this system self running and at least running at unity.My ultimate goal is not to be dependent on grid power or gas driven generators or to claim over unity,but simply to save money or to pay nothing for electricity.

I found one pancake coil to work nice, but strangely enough it works better if you place another identical coil on top of the first coil,and then draw the power from the first coil to power the water heaters and the second coil to power the lighting(i found that you must not connect the two coils together as this makes it totally ineffective and makes you loose half the output).

When you measure the output voltage of the coils you will find that they differ by a mere 100V, so what I have found is that contrary to theory and what the books says, you can use two coils, and I believe,although I have not tried it yet, that I can add a third coil and still get better results.This will eventually end as the distance between the primary,secondary and the third coil will affect the output of the third coil.
I thought about a battery bank and inverters(to expensive) but also about a large capacitor bank to rectify the power and then a signal detector to rectify the signal because I am sure the signal is much to high for most appliances.
So the question now is what size caps to use,how many and how to build a signal detector to rectify the signal?

(I don't have a scope to do proper measurements, but can at least measure the voltage,although I am not sure whether I am correct,all I know is it works well on resistive loads,and that is what draws most power and costs me the most)
I ran my fridges on this power and they were noisy and the motors got hot and that tells me the signal is incorrect,so be warned,a microwave,TV sets and anything electronic will get damaged or will be destroyed,ask me ,had to buy a new oven for the wife.
So you see mike,I am trying this thing out by trial and error and got it to save me money so far, with relatively a small amount of money spent,That's why I joined this forum,to find out more and share what I have learned as I am not an electronics expert at all, but can at least do some calculations and simple measurements.

I was thinking to build an inverter as found in the attachment but I am not sure whether it will do the job,have a look and tell me what you think.
Here is the schematic of my setup



Regards

Paul

Part2 this site is messing up so I used a second page to get

my message through.




Hold that thought. The claim

for frequency alteration is as follows.


(1) Connect a capacitor or capacitors across the load

(2) Across the parallel connected cap or caps add a resistor.


Now you have a simple filter/tank and the frequency is determined

by the RC values.

In this case induction cookers running at 20,000 cycles per second

are tuned with a tank filter. When selecting a resistor start with

100-200 watt capacity the kind with the heat sink built into the

outer casing.


Since high frequency oscillations pack more energy into a smaller

space than lower frequencies the tank component ratings need to

be considered. Only so much text will be entered

[BroMikey]

Other text will not post

A few more words to go and I can not post

[BroMikey]

Our exchange is being interfered with

Part 3

Build a small tank and start at low power levels while observing

component temperatures. if you are running 1000 volts select

a 1500 volt cap. This is a basic tank to clamp ot maintain

the frequency based on the RC calculation.


Of course the hope is that the added RC tank does not quench

the OU effects at which time a different set of RC values must

be used. No more text will post stay tuned part4

[BroMikey]

Part 4

This quest for frequency tuning is well known. Some use transformers

or LC tuning and again as simple as this all looks in a diagram the

correct values must be found from trail and error.


I think the tuning is best summed up by saying that you are

successful when a frequency is reached closest to 60hz with the

least amount of energy losses.


This is a gross generalization and someone with far more

understanding on this subject could give a much more specific

direction for component values and wattage's.

[tachyoncatcher]

My Experiments

Hi Mike

I am also investigating this system and at this stage i am running 2 x 210 liter water heaters and all my lights and security lights from it,applying 2000 watt and gaining a woping 5000 watt,so what I am saying is that I put in 2000watt and I draw 7000 watt ,what I have found is ... 980V and 1200V at some stages and find it very difficult to measure the current but sometimes I get a reading of 15 Amp and sometimes nothing.
I would really like to get this system to work on all appliances but do not know how to rectify the voltage and the frequincy.
I would really appreciate help in this regard.(schematics would help a lot)
Regards
paul

Hi Paul,
I did some experimenting with this setup about a year ago. I sacrificed a new induction unit in order to test as many coil combinations as I could come up with. I now realize that there were many more that I never thought of. Anyway, the main coil in the unit is a many stranded, litzed, single filar, pancake coil. What? Though there are many small individually insulated wires twisted together, they are connected on the ends to one wire leads. This will make sense in a minute. The coil has ferrite strips on the bottom side in a radial pattern. Each strip being perpendicular to the wire. The coil was fed a perfect standing wave made up of 2 frequencies. One, 60Hz, the standing wave carrier, the second was in the MHz range, beyond my equipments ability to measure. (old scope with crappy probes) The high frequency fit snugly inside the 60 Hz standing carrier. The litzed wire allows the high frequency without overheating. Strangely enough, a TBC will also perform similarly to the "stock" coil, but couple to other "output" coils with less loss. But, not to another TBC as efficiently as a standard, single filar pancake coil. I am in US, so 120V @ 60Hz was supplied to unit.

All that said, keep in mind transformer mechanics apply. A fact I totally missed out on when I was testing this setup. Duh! All my coils and testing were 1:1. I also failed to test any core options or Kacher coils. Not very thorough, but I thought you might benefit from the frequency and wave findings.

Good Luck,

Randy