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Daniel McFarland Cook's Electromagnetic Battery

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  • Daniel McFarland Cook's Electromagnetic Battery

    Has anyone successfully replicated this? I been working with a downsized version with each iron rod only being a foot with the primary wires being 28 AWG with both being the same amount of windings (I do not remember the amount for the primary but I definitely remembered thoroughly checking to make sure the windings were same for both of them) and 14 AWG solid wire with 141 windings on each rod and I definitely connected the primary wires to the secondary wires of the opposite rod and I created a helix test jumper to "close" one end while the other end having jumper leads to connect to the battery for star up along with a potentiometer being connected in a rheostat fashion within the series and I even put in a capacitor to "handicap" it but I still got no reading on my multimeter or voltage or amperes.

  • #2
    Originally posted by StwartMad View Post
    Has anyone successfully replicated this? I been working with a downsized version with each iron rod only being a foot with the primary wires being 28 AWG with both being the same amount of windings (I do not remember the amount for the primary but I definitely remembered thoroughly checking to make sure the windings were same for both of them) and 14 AWG solid wire with 141 windings on each rod and I definitely connected the primary wires to the secondary wires of the opposite rod and I created a helix test jumper to "close" one end while the other end having jumper leads to connect to the battery for star up along with a potentiometer being connected in a rheostat fashion within the series and I even put in a capacitor to "handicap" it but I still got no reading on my multimeter or voltage or amperes.
    I believe you have to charge it up by running power into the circuit to magnetize the iorn cores.

    Comment


    • #3
      Hi StwartMad,

      Here3 is another replication,
      Daniel McFarland Cook's Electro-Magnetic Battery
      and
      Building Cook's Electro-Magnetic Battery UpDate

      He did not get it to work.

      Take care,

      Michel
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeYscnFpEyA

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Allen Burgess View Post
        I believe you have to charge it up by running power into the circuit to magnetize the iorn cores.
        I apologize for accidentally leaving certain information out but what I forgot to meantion that when I couldn't get any voltage or ampere readings from the multimeter for the electromagnetic battery, it was already charged and the iron rods were already magnetized.

        Comment


        • #5
          One thing that is wrong with the last post replication is the core, it should be of annealed iron wire, the finer you use to build the core, the higher the voltage it should produce. I think it is mentioned in the patent but that is a long time ago I did research on it and never actually built it, got caught in other projects.

          Take care,

          Michel
          http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeYscnFpEyA

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Michelinho View Post
            One thing that is wrong with the last post replication is the core, it should be of annealed iron wire, the finer you use to build the core, the higher the voltage it should produce. I think it is mentioned in the patent but that is a long time ago I did research on it and never actually built it, got caught in other projects.

            Take care,

            Michel
            Yes you are correct that he did make mention of the use of iron wire but they were just an alternate option if one didn't want didn't want to use a solid bar (even though I used rods instead of bars but I do not see it making a difference in this particular invention unless there is a certain phoenomenon or effect that I am ignorant of)

            Comment


            • #7
              First the core must not retain magnetism, that will stop the unit on the first reversal of current. Second, it is far better to have many small magnets (annealed soft iron wire*) than one big magnet (solid core). Another benefit is to give a higher voltage output because it might not be high enough to start with, which with such a small unit (1 foot core) might just be about non existent. The patent specify 3, 4 or even 6 feet or more for the core (preferably).

              Take care,

              Michel


              * 400 ft. 16.5-Gauge Rebar Tie Wire-05337 at The Home Depot
              http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeYscnFpEyA

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Michelinho View Post
                First the core must not retain magnetism, that will stop the unit on the first reversal of current. Second, it is far better to have many small magnets (annealed soft iron wire*) than one big magnet (solid core). Another benefit is to give a higher voltage output because it might not be high enough to start with, which with such a small unit (1 foot core) might just be about non existent. The patent specify 3, 4 or even 6 feet or more for the core (preferably).

                Take care,

                Michel


                * 400 ft. 16.5-Gauge Rebar Tie Wire-05337 at The Home Depot
                Thank you for the link for the annealed iron wires. I am thinking of trying it again with iron wires instead and was wondering if it is okay for the iron wires to be folded or wrapped around an object for condensation reasons while maintaining the preferred length or lengths or do they have to be straight?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by StwartMad View Post
                  Thank you for the link for the annealed iron wires. I am thinking of trying it again with iron wires instead and was wondering if it is okay for the iron wires to be folded or wrapped around an object for condensation reasons while maintaining the preferred length or lengths or do they have to be straight?
                  Hi StwardMad

                  I would say that the lengths need to be singular and rod like. You may have to stretch the wire to make it nice and straight. That’s easy to do, put one end of the wire in a vice, and pull the other end, with a constant pull and you will feel it yield a little as it straightens up. I guess if you were making a 4 ft core , just over 12 ft of wire could be stretched at a time, then cut to correct length – a tiresome task.

                  The pre cut lengths would then need to be softened, by heating up in a fire pit to red hot and allowing to cool slowly, by covering over and leaving say overnight.

                  Regards

                  John

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Morpher44 posted some interesting observations about the interplay between coils with diameters based on PHI ratios. At one point, he mentions placing one coil inside another and getting very good amplification readings. I just can't find the post right now - probably in his Hendershot replication or Hubbard coil replication threads. After reading Morpher's thoughts on the significance of the phi ratio, I wondered if this would have any applicability to the DM Cook "battery." If I can find Morpher's remarks, I'll copy and post here (later - at work, and lunch almost over). Otherwise, maybe someone else can.
                    Bob

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hi john

                      The pre cut lengths would then need to be softened, by heating up in a fire pit to red hot and allowing to cool slowly, by covering over and leaving say overnight.

                      Regards

                      John

                      John

                      The verb annealed means that it has already been under the treatment of heat. All he has to do is stretch the wire and cut it at the desired length and spray them with paint ot other insulating stuff. I use high heat spray paint when heat is a problem.

                      Take care,

                      Michel
                      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeYscnFpEyA

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Michelinho View Post
                        Hi john




                        The verb annealed means that it has already been under the treatment of heat. All he has to do is stretch the wire and cut it at the desired length and spray them with paint ot other insulating stuff. I use high heat spray paint when heat is a problem.

                        Take care,

                        Michel
                        Michel

                        I'm quite aware of what annealed means, however when stretching out the wire, it it will harden again as it yields during stretching, thus requiring to be annealed/softened for best performance.

                        Regards

                        John

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Rebar and other tie wires have a higher carbon content which means a higher remanence compared to 1006,1008 or 1018. If you want the least amount of remanence you want a lower carbon and high iron content. McMasters has 1008 black oxide wire.
                          McMaster-Carr

                          Ive tried several tie wires and even the 1018 was much better. If you have an old color monitor you can take a piece of wire and magnetize it, then put it on the screen. Then reverse the polarity and then check it. Pretty much works real well. The more its magnetize the more intense the distortion.
                          Last edited by Iotayodi; 01-19-2013, 06:52 PM.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            This may sound silly but I am thinking of putting aluminum foil in between the core and primary coil and also inbetween the secondary coil since I ran out of ways to get it working before trying the "multi-core" that was mentioned earlier since I believe it has to atleast function on its own before anything is done to it to enhance or give it new qualities (since now I managed to get it to output 4.5 something volts when the resistors were not present but as a consequence it heated up really quickly and when the resistors were present as prescribed by the patient in both the actual battery and the "cook battery" the heating only became a problem on the resistors which were 10 ohms but the voltage decreased to 0.17-0.26 volts, oh an I also found out that my original multimeter was wonky). Also on the side note I'm wondering what's everyone's result on here regarding this patent?
                            Last edited by StwartMad; 02-09-2013, 03:00 AM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Rings of Wire? vs Conventional Spiral Winding?

                              Well, I took Aaron up on his latest newsletter challenge to see if I could contribute anything to this Daniel McFarland Cook mystery.

                              Count me foolish, but are those many individual, stacked circular rings of wire comprising each so-called helical winding? Is this another instance of patent-attorney speak for saying one thing and meaning something else? In other words, not helical, but circular windings? I'm learning to appreciate that there is no easy path to free energy. So, this device's design simplicity and ready availability of materials of construction may be amply made up for by its laborious fabrication?





                              Lots of copper and iron PHMs in here?

                              Also, I thought it significant that the insulation specified for the wire should not be paraffin wax. Just because the patent alludes to the heat generated by the coils possibly melting the wax, doesn't mean I have to take the patent's explanation literally? Instead, the patents suggest shellac, or silk.

                              As I recall, the latest theory is that petroleum deposits are not derived from ancient green algae inland seas, or lakes, but are directly fabricated by the Earth from the Earth itself.

                              If true, then credence is lent to the notion that Tesla's use of pine rosin, beeswax and 5% carnauba wax slathered onto his coils stuffed with cotton in between the windings (according to Mark McKay) may be preferable over rubber or plastic insulators derived from the plastics industry. Mark Mckay also mentioned Delron was the preferred insulator in the EV Gray motor (in a YouTube recording from the summer conference of 2012).

                              And additional credence may be lent to Karl von Reichenbach's idea that water, metal, silk, resin, and glass comprise the most ideal conductors of Od. I take these five to be filters, not merely conductors, of prana.

                              The standard theory is that there is only one prana which manifests in five different predominant qualities. Since metal is one of the five, than vyana (circulatory prana) may be conductive of electrical phenomena. Tree resin, or plant sap in general, would be conductive for prana (breath); specifically natural shellac from the lac tree in India, and pine rosin, could qualify.

                              If petroleum is not a derivative of plant or animal life, then it may have no tendency to transmit life force. In other words, if insulation is the most important component of a conductor (or, inductor?, since radiant energy prefers surfaces), then paying attention to the materials of constructing insulation may be just as important as for constructing the wire or core of this device?

                              Whenever Nathan Stubblefield specified in his patents for cotton sleeves surrounding his bare copper wires (leaving his iron wires bare), I imagine he would have slathered some natural plant resinous sap, or other naturally occurring material, to coat each and every cotton covering.

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