Lindemann rotary attraction

[CrazyUncleJay]

Thats probobly a good way to go about doing it. Ill bet if you take 2 transformers and unwind one coil winding from each and put one 1 wire transistor on each side of your rotor it would make a good EM. Then figure out the resistance and then get thr right resistors in the circut it just might work. Give it a try. I might do the same. Post if you get good results or bad and ill do the same. Good luck

[wrtner]

Thats probobly a good way to go about doing it. Ill bet if you take 2 transformers and unwind one coil winding from each and...

Could you make a sketch of this proposal?

I have taken the top off the core with an angle grinder and am
looking to leave the secondary (high turns, low current) coil in
position, and bridge the gap between the LH upright and the
central large upright with the motor. The RH upright stands
unused.

If it works, it will be a very easy way to make a Lindemann A motor.

Here is a picture but photographed upside down. The other coil
is set aside. Also a picture of the naked core, on its side. The
central fat upright needs cutting with a hacksaw, a ghastly
job, to make a stepped upright, ending with thew same width
as the LH, and more space for the motor.

[CrazyUncleJay]

It sounds like you already have a scetch in Your head. I think you are approaching the build in a good way. I tryed bending a flat iron rod into a "C" an putting a rotor inside of it and while it does work (slowly and not what i was hoping for) i came up with differen ideas on how i could do everything. From what i did i know i need to widen my "keeper" so there is a longer period of attraction befor i cut the power at just before dead center alignment. I decided to test with a 6v lantern battery directly hooked up to the coil and test and see what gave me the results i wanted. Im going to gut some 6x9 speakers , remove the magnets , and cut the sides off leaving the 9in part of them as my keepers. Im going to connect the winding on the speakers in series and see how that works .... ( x ) like that. Build what is in your head but keep in mind what has been done by others. Keep posting. With everyone trying different things ... Someone is bound to come up with something that works. Good luck

[artoj]

Frohman Motor

Hi CrazyUncleJay
Peters attraction motor is a variation on the Frohman motor from 1844, extremely simple and was one of the first motors used in industrial applications. I hope this helps, regards Arto.

[wrtner]

I tryed bending a flat iron rod into a "C"

Where did you get the flat rod from?

I would bet that it is steel.

[CrazyUncleJay]

Got it from depot... Magnets stuck to it well and it was bendable so ... I thought ... Good enough

[CrazyUncleJay]

I put 7 200 foot stands of 30 gauge wire in it. Itill work, it might need a slightly larger amount if current but its a good piece for experiments

[wrtner]

Got it from depot... Magnets stuck to it well and it was bendable so ... I thought ... Good enough

Probably not. This will be steel - I am pretty sure.

What this means is that when you switch the voltage off,
the magnetic field will not switch off immediately. - There
will be a delay when the field should be shut off. The field
is now acting against your interests and not for them.

Can you lay your hands on welding rods? R45, R60. This
is what the Bedini SG people recommend.

Paul-R.

p.s. I am still puzzled by the laminations of the MOT core.
They don't look like or seem to be iron but, since they
work with 50hz, they need to do what we need. Maybe
the transformer doesn't need to be that accurate.

[gsmsslsb]

Hi CrazyUncleJay
Peters attraction motor is a variation on the Frohman motor from 1844, extremely simple and was one of the first motors used in industrial applications. I hope this helps, regards Arto.

Sorry to butt in but you have a PM artoj

[CrazyUncleJay]

Lindemann / newman hybrid - YouTube

I decided to stop obsessing over the x-rotor design because it is a little difficult to build. It seemed to me that that is why we were never given a solid set of directions with a parts list, ya know. So i stuck with one of my other experiments i had laying around. My newman motor. I was looking at it and thought ... Hey theres no back emf in that because the coils arnt wrapped around an iron core. Soooo i used the"commutator as the lindemann circut "switch" and the newman motor setup as my motor. I now have a newman motor being switched on and off through a lindemann circut and am able to get the energy back out of the circut at the "charging" part of the circut. Im getting the results that it should be giving. It runs faster and quieter when i let the energy go to a battery and when i dont it slows down as like the results in the lindemann video. I still have to check the multimeter and do more tests but at first glance .... It works! I should be able to get tourque from the motor and it shouldnt drawl any more current. Its very interesting stuff. If anyone can think of what might make this setup be better please let me know. Id love some feedback.

[CrazyUncleJay]

Also , in my video when i short out the circut and expect that the motor would slow down but it speeds up by a little bit, i cant help but wonder did it speed up because while the circut is off for 180 degrees ... The magnets are still drifting around to the next on position ... Passing the coil windings/ generating for that period of time? And does the circut allow that energy back through? And for the 180 degrees that the circut is on but being switched on/off by the commutator are those energy spikes from the circut being opened and closed being allowed back to the run battery? I could really use some good advice on these two areas in particular.