Changing hertz

[Hrothgar]

I'm working on a modified MEG and they generate more power the higher the hertz. Is there anyway to modify the hertz back down to 60 after generation. If I can't remodulate it can I instead crank up the oscillation to the Kilohertz range , combine the output as pulsed DC instead of AC then step-down transform it and feed it through an inverter?

[Peculian]

see Don Smith thread

Hi Hrothgar.
Have a look here:
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post237359
we were discussing the same thing there.

Regards.

[gyula]

I'm working on a modified MEG and they generate more power the higher the hertz. Is there anyway to modify the hertz back down to 60 after generation. If I can't remodulate it can I instead crank up the oscillation to the Kilohertz range , combine the output as pulsed DC instead of AC then step-down transform it and feed it through an inverter?

Hi Hrothgar,

I believe the best method would perhaps be to find the highest frequency your cores able to operate on, this way you may get the highest power output possible and inherent in your setup. When you found this operational condition and cannot improve it any more, then just use a full wave rectifier at the output with a puffer capacitor (if you have two output coils then combine them both in series or parallel which gives better) and keep a 12V battery (or two 12V bats in series) charging AND you also connect an inverter to this battery, and the inverter's AC output would already be at 60 or 50 Hz. Make sure your 4 diodes are designed for the some kHz or some ten kHz range as per your operating frequency is found, the 50 or 60 Hz mains diodes like well known 1N4000 series are lossy at the higher freqs, however their ultra fast versions UF4007 are good enough.
If your output coil(s) give too high AC voltage output, just reduce their number of turns or make taps on them to fit the level to that of the battery, lest overcharging occurs. Alternatively, if you prefer to have a higher AC output for any reason, then a controlled switch could be used as per Bedini to charge the batteries, after the diodes+puffer cap.

I have seen your modified MEG here http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post237487 and your drawing is rather 'mini'. If I can see correctly, you have a single control coil placed on the top part of the extra ring? And the yellow bars on the left and right of the center magnets are the output coils? Or just the other way round? Also, do you have any air gaps and where are they?

Thanks,
Gyula

[boguslaw]

Hi Hrothgar,

I believe the best method would perhaps be to find the highest frequency your cores able to operate on, this way you may get the highest power output possible and inherent in your setup. When you found this operational condition and cannot improve it any more, then just use a full wave rectifier at the output with a puffer capacitor (if you have two output coils then combine them both in series or parallel which gives better) and keep a 12V battery (or two 12V bats in series) charging AND you also connect an inverter to this battery, and the inverter's AC output would already be at 60 or 50 Hz. Make sure your 4 diodes are designed for the some kHz or some ten kHz range as per your operating frequency is found, the 50 or 60 Hz mains diodes like well known 1N4000 series are lossy at the higher freqs, however their ultra fast versions UF4007 are good enough.
If your output coil(s) give too high AC voltage output, just reduce their number of turns or make taps on them to fit the level to that of the battery, lest overcharging occurs. Alternatively, if you prefer to have a higher AC output for any reason, then a controlled switch could be used as per Bedini to charge the batteries, after the diodes+puffer cap.

I have seen your modified MEG here http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post237487 and your drawing is rather 'mini'. If I can see correctly, you have a single control coil placed on the top part of the extra ring? And the yellow bars on the left and right of the center magnets are the output coils? Or just the other way round? Also, do you have any air gaps and where are they?

Thanks,
Gyula

Well.....thats allright but.... Gyula , how could you maintain stable voltage range ? I mean, let's have a big 400V electrolytic capacitor. How to avoid overvoltage ? Do you know any good crowbar circuits ?

[gyula]

Hi,

In the above setup if he stays with using a smaller AC voltage output (with less number of turns or he makes taps on a bigger output coil) then the battery can remain permanently in use: it has a very good voltage stabilizing effect like a Zener diode but much more powerful. So the battery can safely prevent a run-away situation. On the long run, this is rather simple solution, needing more attention not to overcharge or deeply discharge the battery.
To eliminate battery, he would have to use a DC/DC converter (this could be built or could be bought off-the-shelf) and this would also stabilize the output DC voltage and feed the inverter which would output the 50 - 60 Hz AC voltage. Unfortunately the DC/DC converter should have a power rating like the load you wish to run at the AC output of the inverter. Because this latter is basically a DC/AC converter, there is a redundancy here and a correctly chosen DC/AC converter i.e. inverter would be enough which has a built-in voltage regulating circuit. Here I assume an inverter with 12V to 24V DC input range.
Alternatively, when 200-300V AC voltage comes out from the MEG output coil, after rectification and filter a switch mode power supply taken from a junk CRT television set or a PC power supply could also be used to feed the inverter.

You mention crowbar circuits, they would not be needed if there is already a voltage stabilizer (of the kinds I mention above) in the setup so no overvoltage could develop anywhere. If you use Google Images with crowbar circuits, you will get many schematics. What power and voltage levels would you need?

Gyula

[Hrothgar]

OK more details

My brother gave me a the transformer out of his old arc welder. it is a set of laminations +9.4"x5.4" stacked 5.5" thick I'm going to carve out the center to be 3" by 7" inside I'm going to use flat wire or rather aluminium flashing for the coils but bifilar and interlaced with the laminations. I've designed the pattern to have no reluctance between the Coils and to have 1sq foot of core contact for every inch of width the coil will also have the laminations arranged so as to complement the spin uni-formally see thumbnail. Using this formation for the collection coils I can use a single sheet of aluminium 6" wide and 50' long(one on each coil) without loss of induction due to the extreme width compared to the standard flat wires on the market. the control coils will use the same pattern but must be limited on how wide the sheets must be about 5/8" to 3/4" to retain induction as they must drive a field. Further more to limit the loss from the lapses in the laminations the open areas will be stuffed with trim. The final product will be about 3 inches thick. I haven't decided the strength of the magnets yet but I don't want to spend over $125 on them. I'm hoping to have this unit running on straight up house current at first but to be part of a larger operation once I start selling power to a power co-op a few counties down. The collectors are the equivalent of 3- 0000 cables So I should definitely bussbar it. That's the reason I was asking about jacking up the oscillation to try to get it to a virtual DC for inversion. The more oscillation the more power.

PS I know this is pretty far out as a goal and it all depends on the first step but hey this is fun too.