Fuelless Friction Heater And Other Heaters

[the bob]

Thanks for the info Skywatcher. I got to cut the top of that tank I got to look for a motor. I got a lot of work to get something together. On your lightbulb box, try to line it with 1/2" foil faced foam insulation. I worked at a machine with small parts that was washed in minreal spirits. We put the parts in pan and put them in a light bulb oven to dry. It had faced insulation and got quit hot inside.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi bob, thanks for the reply.
Look forward to seeing what you put together bob, any pics yet, hehe.
Yes, speaking of that foil back insulation, just got two, 1/2" thick pieces from my brother in law, using it for the pop/beer can solar collector, about 180 cans, building that also as i work on the friction heater.
Will have left over, so i can line the light bulb box, good idea bob.
Here is an updated pic of friction heater, with drill press motor mounted, the 5/16" threaded rod secures it ok, though it may need an extra support added.
Also had to strengthen the paint can where shaft mounts to it, used 1/4" flooring that is made of high density fiberboard and jb welded a circular piece to can.
It is very secure now.
Also, had to add some touch up spots of high temp. ultra copper to seal inside of outer drum, as the rotating paint can was not quite in alignment and was rubbing on the side walls.
All fixed now though, runs very smooth and the noise level is acceptable from the belt drive setup.
Waiting for silicon to dry, then we will be adding vegetable oil for some tests.



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peace love light
tyson

[the bob]

On the light bulb box. Tractor supply has heat lamps to keep little chickens warm, they are 250 watts. I know they put out a lot of heat but may to big for your box. I got the tank top cut off. Put some painters tape around the inside and measured 29 1/2 ". Need to get some sheet metal to cut and fit in side, hoping to make the rotor 29 3/8 out side dia. I'll try to get some pictures, not to good at that.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi bob, thanks for the reply and information and your sharing.
Seems like the regular incandescent bulbs in the bulb heater are working well, it was 18 degrees F. here tonight and it kept that room mentioned earlier at 71 F. and the gas furnace did not turn on in the rest of the house for at least two hours.
Think that room is a major loss in this house, thermal wise.
Also, the bulb heater draws 714 watts according to the kill a watt meter we have and thats with the microwave fan on low, not sure if some of the bulbs are not drawing the wattage they should be, works very well though.
Was working on the aluminum can, indoor solar heater all day today,
Started spray painting the cans, but did not have enough paint left in can, will post more pics tomorrow, when it is fully painted, though should have it up and running some time tomorrow for testing.
It will use a 120mm 12 volt-.2 amp, 2.4 watts, pc fan.
It uses 1/2" foil on both sides insulation.
Going to try painters drop plastic and see how that works for now, though i do have glass also that can be tried.
Neighbors supplied all the aluminum cans, 130 cans, bless their hearts
Friction heater testing coming soon.


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tyson

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, finished the aluminum can solar heater.
It probably needs some modification though.
Going to bore holes in each top and bottom of can towards the sides, so that the hot air can flow through each can and more efficiently transfer its heat to the air flow.
Tested it this morning, outside temp was 25 F. and with panel placed outside with thermometer in exhaust port, was reading 100 F. at peak.
Most folks seem to be getting at least a 100 degree differential, so hoping the holes added in cans will transfer the heat better.
Odd thing is, had it inside first and it read the same 100 F., with 65 F. inside temperature, so it is possible the low E sliding door is blocking somehow.
Any thoughts appreciated.
Going to start testing friction heater tomorrow.



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tyson

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, have an update on the friction heater.
Made some tests using vegetable oil today.
The mechanics are not very ideal with this build as it is.
The threaded shaft seems slightly not straight, shaft probably needs to be a little bigger in diameter when using a belt, hole bored in paint can is not perfeclty centered.
All this adds up to some vibration and extra strain on the 300 watt drill press motor.
The motor initially starts out at 200 watts, then slowly rises to and settles around 360 watts according to the kill a watt meter, which is too much for this motor to be on for too long as it gets hot.
Seems the motor, as it heats up, starts too become inefficient, as it is probably not meant for any type of continuous duty.
The outer aluminum drum reaches 182 degrees F. in 20 minutes, with the room temperature
at around 60 degrees.
The outer drum cannot be touched for more than a fraction of a second or it will cause a burn, so the thermometer is probably close to accurate.
So to me, these seem to be promising results so far, with such an inferior build.
Am going to build a new outer aluminum drum, all one piece this time and make the gap between the outer drum and inner rotating paint can or any alternative i can think of, as small as i can get it.
If i do use another paint can, have no idea how i'm going to get the center hole more precise, any ideas or paint can alternatives would be appreciated.
Also, i have a treadmill motor that would probably be more efficient than this drill press motor, though it is 120 vdc, so would need a rectifier and maybe a capacitor.
It is also rated at 4800 rpm, so the pulley ratio would need to be changed to get to the 2000 rpm's the heater is at now.
All suggestions and comments welcome, thanks
peace love light
tyson

[wrtner]

Finding the centre is a nightmare because such accuracy is needed.

I measured the drum accurately and drew a circle on paper with a pair of compasses that diameter. Then, using the classic geometry technique of bisecting chords etc, I found the centre of the paper circle. I then gummed the paper back on the drum (accurately concentric) and waited for it to dry securely. Then, with a well sharpened centrepunch, I knocked a dent in the newly created centre of the drum, supporting it well underneath to avoid damaging the flatness. Then use this dent as a guide hole for a small drill, and then drilled the required hole and hope for the best.

It is a bit crude and "Mickey Mouse" but I can't see another way of doing it.

Paul-R

[citfta]

Use a lathe

If you can find a friend or a small machine shop that has a lathe large enough to hold the drum you can put the drum in the lathe chuck and using a drill bit in a drill chuck in the tail stock you can get the hole exactly in the center. This will only take a very few minutes and almost no set-up time so even if the machine shop charges you for their time it should not be very much.

Respectfully, Carroll

[wrtner]

If you can find a friend or a small machine shop that has a lathe large enough to hold the drum you can put the drum in the lathe chuck

A great idea if the jaws are self centring or the problem of getting the drum central will be just as bad.

Starting with a circle of the right diameter, there will be a CAD solution, and some open source CAD is free.

[Haffalump]

Finding Center of the circle

Hi folks, have an update on the friction heater.
Made some tests using vegetable oil today.
The mechanics are not very ideal with this build as it is.
The threaded shaft seems slightly not straight, shaft probably needs to be a little bigger in diameter when using a belt, hole bored in paint can is not perfeclty centered.
All this adds up to some vibration and extra strain on the 300 watt drill press motor.
The motor initially starts out at 200 watts, then slowly rises to and settles around 360 watts according to the kill a watt meter, which is too much for this motor to be on for too long as it gets hot.
Seems the motor, as it heats up, starts too become inefficient, as it is probably not meant for any type of continuous duty.
The outer aluminum drum reaches 182 degrees F. in 20 minutes, with the room temperature
at around 60 degrees.
The outer drum cannot be touched for more than a fraction of a second or it will cause a burn, so the thermometer is probably close to accurate.
So to me, these seem to be promising results so far, with such an inferior build.
Am going to build a new outer aluminum drum, all one piece this time and make the gap between the outer drum and inner rotating paint can or any alternative i can think of, as small as i can get it.
If i do use another paint can, have no idea how i'm going to get the center hole more precise, any ideas or paint can alternatives would be appreciated.
Also, i have a treadmill motor that would probably be more efficient than this drill press motor, though it is 120 vdc, so would need a rectifier and maybe a capacitor.
It is also rated at 4800 rpm, so the pulley ratio would need to be changed to get to the 2000 rpm's the heater is at now.
All suggestions and comments welcome, thanks
peace love light
tyson

Use the carpenter scale. see the attach.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, thanks for all the good suggestions.
When i build another rotor, will keep these methods in mind.
So, for an experiment that someone suggested, going to use the AC induction drill press motor seen in the previous pics, as the friction heater.
Have no idea how it will work out, we will see.
Am using a socket from a socket wrench and glued it on one side of shaft, to prevent oil leaks out of that end, then will seal all holes, except top air holes of motor.
One thing is for sure, the rotating drum gap to outer wallls is very small, though the stator laminates have those small gaps every so often for the copper coil, that could be easily filled in with some epoxy steel glue, if it causes an issue.
For now going to test with the copper in place.
Will let you folks know how it works out.
peace love light
tyson

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, an update on modified ac induction motor to friction heater.
It did not work as hoped, it only got warm.
So am going to build a disc friction heater like oil piggys/slapstick.
It is going to be built in such a way, as to not require machining or welding.
I feel it may work well, if anyone wishes to know any details, just ask.
peace love light
tyson

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, for those interested, been working on the disk friction heater based on oilpiggys design, though i'm using different methods of construction.
On right of picture, is two stationary plates finished, 1/4" high density flooring, laminated with aluminum roof flashing and secured with aluminum tape.
Have 5 more to make, then will make ring spacers and outer cylinder made of aluminum roof flashing.
Also shown are the plywood saw blades that will be used as the rotating disks, will be using 6 for now.
On the left in picture, is a 16 quart stainless steel stock pot i found at big lots for 17 dollars, so could not pass it up.
It will be used for a larg drum style friction heater, will be building it as i build the other disk friction heater.
The 16 quart stock pot is 4 times bigger than the paint can used in previous tests, so i hope it will give a greater heat output along with greater capacity to hold its temperature, we will see.
All comments welcome.



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tyson

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, and here is the new light bulb heater design.
It has 2 layers of foil backed insulation on bottom, plus spacer pieces.
One layer on sides, front and back.
2 layers for top cover, with aluminum roof flashing on underside.
Uses 8 plastic bulb holders.
The switch, transformer for 3 watt dc fan and switch box needed a seperate box to stay cooler, things were melting.
It works very well.


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tyson

[SkyWatcher]

don't place fan to pull air through box

Hi folks, had to reconfigure the latest light bulb heater, made it push air through instead of pull, the fan motor was heating up some what and emitting a foul odor.
It now stays cool and since it is pushing air through the bulbs, it creates more turbulence and heats air better, of course exhaust speed is slower, but it is hotter and still brisk enough.
Oh and also, don't use any sealers or glues not meant for high temperatures, thought we could get away with cutting costs this way, that also causes toxic odors.
Still working on disk friction heater while tweaking this other project.
peace love light
tyson