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  • #31
    Friction disk and drum heater update

    Hi folks, for those watching this thread, finished all stationary plates and ring spacers.
    Used four thick steel washers as spacers between each saw blade, used high temp. jb weld inside hole of washers to remove any shaft play.
    Test fitted it today within the aluminum flashing outer drum and it fits like a glove.
    Will be mounting it to the outer support structure with bearings next and mounting motor to do a test dry run, then will fill up to required level with vegetable oil for testing.
    Also, just about finished stock pot drum friction heater, as that was an easier and quicker build, will be testing that sometime after testing this disk heater.
    Will post some pics of all the parts laid out for the disk heater and it assembled within a few days.
    peace love light
    tyson

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    • #32
      Hi folks, here is a few pics of the disk friction heater build so far.
      All comments, questions welcome.







      peace love light
      tyson

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      • #33
        You need to have the liquid circulating through a radiator to get the heat out. Is the fit between the discs and the drum too tight? If so, you may need to grind a bit off the discs.

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        • #34
          Hi wrtner, thanks for the reply.
          This design is based upon oilpiggy's device, though built with different methods.
          From what i can see from oilpiggy's devices, his stationary plates are also tight fitting and the heat is conducted away from the oil, through the metal plates and ring spacers, out into the outer aluminum cylinder drum and into room space.
          That is one of the reasons i laminated all the wood plates and ring spacers with thick aluminum tape, in hopes it will conduct the heat from oil out to outer cylinder drum and to give some protection to wood from oil and heat.
          Only way i will know if this will work like oilpiggy's device, is to test it.
          Getting close to that stage.
          If i did not comprehend your concern clearly, please let me know, as any help is appreciated.
          peace love light
          tyson

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          • #35
            Hi folks, here is the progress on the disk friction heater so far.
            Powered up drill press motor and it runs smooth and quiet at full speed, though as it accelerates and deccelerates, the bottom of shaft that is essentially just hanging into the cylinder, shimmys a bit, though i figured that might happen.
            So, at least the dry run full speed test runs well and the hope is, that when the vegetable oil is in place, it will dampen those start up and slow down vibrations.
            Have to cut aluminum disk for bottom and silicone seal it and it will be ready to fill with oil and test.



            All comments and questions welcome.
            peace love light
            tyson

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            • #36
              Not sure if I understood but always use high-temperature silicone when working with heat or just avoid it

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              • #37
                You need to be ready for generating a lot of heat, and the intention is to do that. Then things may get very hot.

                If you achieve a COP of only 3, and the drive motor is using 360watt, you will be getting over 1KW coming from the drum.

                Remeber the Frenette variation, page 14
                http://www.free-energy-info.com/Chapter14.pdf
                .
                Last edited by wrtner; 01-17-2014, 01:56 PM.

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                • #38
                  Perhaps a test method

                  Sir
                  I have done some testing on these devices ,You should make provision for a water jacket around the unit [bucket ?]

                  measure the volume of water in the jacket put a thermometer in the jacket
                  and run the device [keeping an input log.

                  once you establish input power and temp you have your control for a comparison.

                  take another bucket with the same volume of water and place the appropriate
                  resistive heater into the bucket ,,,,,you will learn much.

                  I used a 55 gal drum and a stop watch for comparison .[time to heat]

                  water steals the heat very fast and never approaches any dangerous temp
                  one thing with these heaters is you invest alot of energy at first to warm things up [this must be calculated into the control test.]

                  thx
                  Chet K
                  PS
                  Obviously ambient temp needs to be recorded in the logs also.
                  This testing is mandatory for seeing improvements you might make or different oils .
                  having a baseline control is always a good idea .
                  Last edited by RAMSET; 01-17-2014, 04:37 PM.
                  If you want to Change the world
                  BE that change !!

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Hi folks, thanks for the replies.
                    Hi boguslaw, indeed i have high temp. silicone, small tube on left red rtv, used rest of the tube, have that big high temp. silicone caulk tube if i need it later for other projects, hehe.

                    Hi wrtner, i hope it generates a ton of heat like you say and thanks for the pdf link, good information.

                    Hi ramset, thanks for the valuable testing tips, sounds like a good method to try.

                    Here is a pic of the aluminum roof flashing sealed in with the high temp silicone.





                    peace love light
                    tyson

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      mini update

                      Hi folks, fired up the disk friction heater using the vegetable oil.
                      The 300 or so watt drill press motor is only able to rotate the 6 fine tooth saw blades through the oil at a slow rpm, no more than 500 rpm i would guess.
                      So, my thoughts on this, are that either it needs a beefier motor for this particular setup, or use less steel saw disks, or the many small teeth (180 teeth) are causing massive drag moving through the vegetable oil.

                      Your thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

                      I could always grind off the teeth on the blades and compare with another toothed blade and see the watt draw difference on the motor.
                      They do sell steel saw blades that have no protruding teeth, think they are meant for some kind of metal cutting, but are expensive.
                      As of now, the killiwatt meter shows 660 watts while in operation.
                      Again, any ideas appreciated.
                      peace love light
                      tyson

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Originally posted by SkyWatcher View Post
                        Hi folks, fired up the disk friction heater using the vegetable oil.
                        I wonder if the oil is too thick. You could try water and see what happens.

                        I would grind off the teeth. As you say, they will cause drag and I reckon a bit more clearance might be a good idea if you ever want to circulate the fluid through a radiator.

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Hi folks, hi wrtner, thanks for the reply.
                          Well, after making many different tests on the disk friction heater today, something about how it is built, is not allowing it to generate much heat at all.
                          I did manage to get the rpms up to proper speeds, just had to fiddle with belt and pulleys, similar to how the chas cambell device works, by allowing the belt to jerk and give more torque to get the steel blades up to speed, since the motor does not have the torque otherwise, to start at the belt pulley settings for higher speed.
                          It did generate heat, but not much.
                          I will set it aside for now and finish the stock pot drum friction heater now, should not take long to have it up and running for testing. have half of it built already.
                          Will let you folks know how that goes.
                          peace love light
                          tyson

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            4 gallon stock pot drum friction heater update

                            Hi folks, almost ready to start testing the 4 gallon/ 16 quart drum friction heater.
                            The high temp. silicone is drying for another 24 hours and will be ready to test.
                            This thing should put out some nice heat/ btu's.
                            The drum to outer cylinder gap is nice and tight, about 3/32" or so.
                            And the rotating steel stock pot drum in this version is 4 times bigger than the previous paint can testing.
                            Will let you folks know how it goes.
                            Oh and it is much better balanced and centered than the last paint can build, so should run a lot smoother and with much less vibration.
                            All comments welcome.





                            peace love light
                            tyson

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              Test update

                              Hi folks, have been testing the stock pot drum friction heater and it required some modifications, had to add a bolt axis stabilizer at the bottom of the stock pot, as the torque from the belt was too much for such an object of that mass.
                              Was hoping i could get away with not having to, though when it reached high speed, it would start to swing a little and hit the sides of the outer stationary cylinder, causing it to slow down rapidly and then gain speed again.
                              So, obviously it cannot generate the heat it has the ability to in that condition, even though it did get to around 128 F. degrees.
                              Almost finished with the modification and will report the results when it can maintain the steady, proper rpm it needs to really heat up well.
                              All comments or questions welcome.
                              peace love light
                              tyson

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                Originally posted by SkyWatcher View Post
                                Oh and it is much better balanced...
                                Don't forget that, because the rotating shaft has considerable length, it needs a dynamic balance rather than merely a static balance.

                                Paul-R

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