Fuelless Friction Heater And Other Heaters

[sprocket]

Hi folks, hi sprocket, i am aware of rotoverter technoology, though i have never applied it to any motors yet.
Sounds like a good avenue to pursue to help further increase efficiency.
Do you think it would work with this ac induction motor from a drill press

If memory serves, there is a video by 'Ashtweth' (whatever happened to him?) where he uses precisely this drill-press setup to prove the RV concept. I have never tried it myself admittedly. I had formed the opinion that to get any valid results you would need a capacitor-box, which would be expensive to build. But this video shows that you can apparently get very good results on the cheap! Strange that there is not more about RV these days? Especially as it's one of the few things that actually work!

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, here is a different update.
The paint can unfortunately, just was not true enough in rotation for my liking, after all the permanent jb welding.
So, i thought of making a wood rotating drum.
It works just as well as the paint can and is a little smaller height wise and is much more true in rotation.
It is 8 disks of 3/4" thick particle board bolted together at each end.
It is a little heavy, though this was just to test and see if it actually worked, can always make it out of lighter 5 ply wood.
It is completely sealed with high temp. silicon.
Haven't made a max. temp test yet, because with the large nut at the bottom, i had to silicon in a 3/4" buffer disk at bottom of cylinder, this will enable to use less oil in cylinder and use less watt input.
Though it does have the same heat up rate.
Thoughts and comments welcome.
peace love light

[SkyWatcher]

permanent magnet heater different design

Hi folks, well i have done the best i can with the machines and resources in regard to the oil friction heaters.
The paint can worked the best and it may have been stable enough for long term use, though i don't trust it.
When i can get the resources, i will either have a drum lathed or have a machine shop drill the center holes in a paint can.
So i am now returning to the promising results i observed with the permanent magnet heater inside of an aluminum tube.
Past results showed a heat rise up to 170 F. in 2 minutes at 400 watt input.
Could not further those tests, because i was holding the aluminum tube with gloves and it was too hot to hold beyond that temperature.
So am building a new design structure with the 5/8" stainless steel shaft with 1" diameter neo magnets in a horizontal position.
Previous testing showed that higher rpm gave better heating and efficiency and this can be achieved with the pulley system.
All thoughts welcome.
peace love light

[wrtner]

When i can get the resources, i will either have a drum lathed

It is amazing what you can find by wandering around different supermarkets with the correct measurements and you simply buy whatever is packaged in the can which is the right size for you.

If you end up with a bowl of peaches, all to the good because you may end up with a can of floor polish. But at least you have your can.

[SkyWatcher]

hi wrtner ,thanks for the reply.
Finding the can is the easy part, making sure it is drilled in the center is the more difficult part.
peace love light

[wrtner]

hi wrtner ,thanks for the reply.
...making sure it is drilled in the center is more difficult...

Yes, it is tricky and essential to get it right. I assume you know the pair of compasses (a pair of dividers gives you a chance to scratch the metal) and the three or four arcs method.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi wrtner, thanks for the reply and good information.
I am aware of that method, i still would need a reliable way to drill the hole without the drill bit wandering off into another universe, hehe.

Started testing the magnet heater tonight for a few minutes.
It is performing far better than the previous magnet heater.
The entire aluminum tube is heating almost at the same rate, where as the previous tests with the aluminum brownie pan, were heating a small area, then slowly heating the entire pan.
It is heating up at a rate of 10 degrees F. in 10 seconds and is very quiet running.
Input is 385 watts at around 1500-1600 rpm.
It is a full 10 foot roll of aluminum roof flashing, 10" high tube.
Will test further tomorrow and time it to 210 degrees, to compare to the previous oil friction heater.
All questions and comments greatly appreciated.



peace love light

[wrtner]

I still would need a reliable way to drill the hole without the drill bit wandering off into another universe

I usually use a hammer to make tiny dent with and sharp nail or centre punch. Use that to make a bigger dent. Use that to make a fine drilled hole, maybe 1mm, and use that to make the size that you need.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, the magnet heater performs very well and is quiet and settles to an input of 300 watts from around 350 starting watts.
The only problem with it, is that it needs more surface area when acting as a radiator.
Radiator fins might help, still thinking about it.
It sure seems odd, oilpiggy claims his oil friction heater heats his whole 1200 sq. foot house and the surface area of his unit is way too small for that, if we use the old steam radiator furnace calculations.
I can't say what temperatures mine is getting to, because my thermometer stops at 220 F., though based on touch and the heat radiated at a distance, it is probably close to 300 F if not greater..
Any ideas on how to move forward with this are greatly welcome.
peace love light

[kenssurplus]

water or oil jacket

Hi,

I am aware that your roll of roof flashing would not lend itself well for it, but i would think about how to incorporate a water or oil jacket surrounding your aluminum. Then your radiating fins would have a whole lot more hot surface area to work with.

[wrtner]

For temperature, you could use an inexpensive type K thermocouple with your multimeter:
Thermocouple - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

When it comes to heat dissipation, Patrick's ebook suggests a separate radiator and circulation pump, but if your runs are very short, overheating shouldn't be such a problem. i.e. take temperatures, run the gear for 30 secs, maybe 60 secs, then take temperature measurements again.

[the bob]

How about some aluminum tubing from Speedy metals. Drill some small holes in the tube. Put a small fan blade on the shaft, and close the other end off. Should help cool the magnets and push hot air out the holes.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, thanks for your helpful replies.
Hi kenssurplus, thanks for the idea, i'm working on making fins and see how that goes.
Tried one fin today made of aluminum siding and made a bent over flange for contact, had it laying around.
Fin is 9-1/2"x 6".
It worked ok, problem is, i aluminum taped it for testing and that did not create a good enough surface contact.
By putting pressure on it, the fin would heat up much greater and i could feel much more heat being radiated compared to just the tube alone.
So, i am going to use large hose clamps with slits at bottom of fins to make secure surface contact.
This also allows for easy addition of more radiator fins.
I still don't know how oilpiggys heater is doing what he claims, oh well.
Even water or electric baseboard heaters need all those fins inside just to work properly, without them, it would not work very well.
This reminds me of something i read that someone said, they claimed that a candle in open air, gives the same heat as one of those clay pot-inside pot candle heaters.
Based on what i am observing, that statement is not entirely correct.
Without some kind of efficient method to transfer the heat to the air, like the clay plant pots large surface area contacting the surrounding air, then very little heating of the air would be accomplished by the candle flame, compared to the clay pot heater.

Hi wrtner, thanks for the thermocouple idea.

Hi the bob, great ideas, thank you and the aluminum tubing is fairly cheap at speedy metals, 15 bucks for a 12" long tube of same dimensions as the roof flashing roll.

I'll post results of clamped radiator fin idea when it's ready to test.
peace love light

[the bob]

If this works good, I think it would be easy to build. I just tried some 2" aluminum tube and some ceramic magnets. Drill press turning 1500 but no heat. Got some super magnets to try next. You might want to go to Radio Shack and get some heat sink compound. Put it between your flashing and fins. It used to transfer heat from transistors to aluminum heat sinks. Might help.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi thebob, thanks for the good reply.
I was thinking exactly the same thing also, heat sink paste or something similar.
Will try the clamp method and see how that goes, then the paste if needed.
As far as if it works, it definitely gets very hot.
As said, it climbs at a rate of 10 degrees every 10 seconds at a starting input wattage of around 385.
It just needs proper radiator surface area, i think, testing will show the truth.
By the way, the aluminum roof flashing roll is 3" inner diameter, 3/32" wall thickness and it is a 10" long tube.
The neo magnets are 1" diameter by 1/8" thick, 6 of these for each stack, 3/4" high stacks and the shaft has 8 stacks of these.
The ceramic magnets might work, though the rpm would have to be higher i would imagine and they might not handle as much heat.
peace love light