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Gentlemen,
I think long and hard before bringing a new thread to this forum. I communicate by email with folks from all over the world concerning the devices they have built, but few will allow me to share publicly what they have discovered, and I respect their privacy. I have run across a generator device which I myself have replicated and it appears, at least in prototype form, to do every single thing the originator claims it will do. I have no idea whether a scaled up model will be more or less successful, but I am in the process of building one at the present time, and would suggest that several of you might want to do the same. If you can get your hands on some plastic disks, half the battle is already won. I am using 12 inch rotors on mine, but I have a bunch of them I have made and am purchasing more.
I am in communication with Steele Braden, who IS an Electrical Engineer, which should cause a few of you to raise your eyebrows immediately. This project has been a long and tedious road for him, and he has seen fit to turn it over to the public. He may join us here, or he may not, but is willing, at least for now, to answer questions through me. I have promised to keep his email address a secret and I can't say for sure that Steele Braden is even his real name.
It may take me a few posts to disclose everything he has shared with me so far, but the following text is taken from his emails to me and compiled into a sort of narrative. Any spelling, typing, or editing mistakes are mine as I attempted to take the substance of several emails that had repetitive and original information in them and combine it all into one document. So I hope it is understandable and that you get what he is driving at. ALL INFO IN RED IS DIRECTLY FROM STEELE. All other stuff is my ramblings and not to be confused with his specific directions and information. Also, it will make it easier for new folks to pick out the important stuff as we go along.
Dave
This is an alternator (generator) that CANCELS out ALL BACK-TORQUE. The only work that the small drive motor has to do is overcome very small air and bearing friction. As you know, all “standard” alternators, produce back-torque when an electrical load is connected to their output. The lower the resistance of the load, the more mechanical energy that has to be put into rotating the alternators shaft. My machine on the other hand, has no connection between the rotational energy requirements of the small drive motor and the output energy. Basically, two rotary capacitors that are 180 degrees out of step with each other, RECYCLE a charge back and forth between them indefinitely. When one rotary capacitor is fully “meshed” (maximum capacitance,) the other cap. is unmeshed (minimum capacitance.) To placate the “conservation of energy” guys, this machine certainly conserves power, in that it RECYCLES power, so does not deplete the initially placed charge. The machine would normally lose about 9 microamps through imperfect insulation etc, but the machine also keeps the HT charge topped up. My machine is only small, so not very practical, but a larger machine would produce some useful output. For every 440 picofarads swing, 20 watts flows. This is at high voltage and low current AC and has to be stepped down (e.g. 12 volts) where the current rises to something useful.
Thus the small drive motor “feels” no work other than very small bearing and air friction. The output of the machine has no relationship to the rotational energy requirements of the drive motor, so the word “efficiency” has no meaning. Efficiency, normally applies to the ratio between input power and output power.
My machine consists of two rotary capacitors, but a practical output machine would have many sets of rotary caps. My present prototype has two rotors of Perspex (acrylic) 300mm in diameter sandwitched between two square “plates” as the stators on the left, and the same on the right. These two rotor discs are connected via a shaft with insulated coupling in the centre. The rotors have 6 “petals” of aluminium foil on them (both sides) as do the inner sides of the stator plates. The acrylic is all 4mm thick. The stators have a covering on their surfaces of 2mm thick acrylic to prevent arc-over, as a high voltage exists here. When one rotors petals are exactly in line with its stator petals, (fully meshed) position, this rotary capacitor is at its maximum capacitance. At the same time, the other rotary cap. is fully unmeshed and at its lowest capacitance. In other words, both rotary capacitors are always at 180 degrees out of synch. with each other. An initial HT charge is placed on the machine from a momentary external supply, then removed. The load, is connected in series with both the rotors. As the rotors are rotated, the fully meshed capacitor is unmeshed while the other rotor is now going into mesh. This causes the unmeshing rotor to transfer its charge over to the meshing capacitor. This results in an AC current going back and forth between the two rotary capacitors indefinitely. The power is high voltage at low current, so to be a practical output, it needs to be stepped down via a transformer to something useful e.g. 12 volts, whilst at the same time, the current rises to again something useful. I, without using a step-down transformer, used two 8 watt fluo. tubes in series as a load. These stayed illuminated for 4 hours without diminishing in brightness, till I stopped the test. Because my machine is only small, there is not enough output to “close the loop” i.e. take the output and feed it to the drive motor to make the system self-sustaining. A larger machine would have enough output to be self sustaining.
If this was yet just another alternator, there would be no point to it. THE point of this machine, is that it has no back-torque – in other words, the drive motor has no work to do as in conventional alternators where you have to fight the drag of the back-emf. The following, is the secret of cancellation of all back torque: The unmeshing rotor, DOES experience electrostatic back drag, BUT at this same instant, the rotor going INTO mesh, experiences attraction assistance electrostatic pull in closing. These two forces are identical and so CANCEL EACH OTHER OUT !!! At 300 rpm, the machine outputs 50 hz. For a greater output machine, there are several options. Increase the rpm. Increase the number of pairs of rotary capacitors. Increase the diameter of the rotors. Reduce the air gap between the rotors and the stators.
I believe Doubling the diameter of the rotors provides FOUR TIMES the output. Halving the air gap provides FOUR TIMES the output. Doubling the rpm, doubles the output. Because of imperfect insulation etc. the machine would loose 9 microamps, however, the machine also acts as a DC generator and keeps the HT charge topped up. There is no heat in this machine and it is very quiet to run. I have experimented with many variables in the number of aluminium foil petals, but it appears that 6 is the optimum. If you are interested in building this machine, I can also supply photographs and the associated circuit diagrams.
As you know, capacitors are open-circuit devices, so cannot loose their charge. My circuit never has a capacitor connected via its terminals directly to the load. Instead, the capacitors are connected in series and in series with the load. The load only gets power when the rotary capacitors are actually rotating and sending the current back and forth between them There ARE losses, but the machine also works as a HT DC generator which tops up the otherwise wasted HT losses.
I think long and hard before bringing a new thread to this forum. I communicate by email with folks from all over the world concerning the devices they have built, but few will allow me to share publicly what they have discovered, and I respect their privacy. I have run across a generator device which I myself have replicated and it appears, at least in prototype form, to do every single thing the originator claims it will do. I have no idea whether a scaled up model will be more or less successful, but I am in the process of building one at the present time, and would suggest that several of you might want to do the same. If you can get your hands on some plastic disks, half the battle is already won. I am using 12 inch rotors on mine, but I have a bunch of them I have made and am purchasing more.
I am in communication with Steele Braden, who IS an Electrical Engineer, which should cause a few of you to raise your eyebrows immediately. This project has been a long and tedious road for him, and he has seen fit to turn it over to the public. He may join us here, or he may not, but is willing, at least for now, to answer questions through me. I have promised to keep his email address a secret and I can't say for sure that Steele Braden is even his real name.
It may take me a few posts to disclose everything he has shared with me so far, but the following text is taken from his emails to me and compiled into a sort of narrative. Any spelling, typing, or editing mistakes are mine as I attempted to take the substance of several emails that had repetitive and original information in them and combine it all into one document. So I hope it is understandable and that you get what he is driving at. ALL INFO IN RED IS DIRECTLY FROM STEELE. All other stuff is my ramblings and not to be confused with his specific directions and information. Also, it will make it easier for new folks to pick out the important stuff as we go along.
Dave
This is an alternator (generator) that CANCELS out ALL BACK-TORQUE. The only work that the small drive motor has to do is overcome very small air and bearing friction. As you know, all “standard” alternators, produce back-torque when an electrical load is connected to their output. The lower the resistance of the load, the more mechanical energy that has to be put into rotating the alternators shaft. My machine on the other hand, has no connection between the rotational energy requirements of the small drive motor and the output energy. Basically, two rotary capacitors that are 180 degrees out of step with each other, RECYCLE a charge back and forth between them indefinitely. When one rotary capacitor is fully “meshed” (maximum capacitance,) the other cap. is unmeshed (minimum capacitance.) To placate the “conservation of energy” guys, this machine certainly conserves power, in that it RECYCLES power, so does not deplete the initially placed charge. The machine would normally lose about 9 microamps through imperfect insulation etc, but the machine also keeps the HT charge topped up. My machine is only small, so not very practical, but a larger machine would produce some useful output. For every 440 picofarads swing, 20 watts flows. This is at high voltage and low current AC and has to be stepped down (e.g. 12 volts) where the current rises to something useful.
Thus the small drive motor “feels” no work other than very small bearing and air friction. The output of the machine has no relationship to the rotational energy requirements of the drive motor, so the word “efficiency” has no meaning. Efficiency, normally applies to the ratio between input power and output power.
My machine consists of two rotary capacitors, but a practical output machine would have many sets of rotary caps. My present prototype has two rotors of Perspex (acrylic) 300mm in diameter sandwitched between two square “plates” as the stators on the left, and the same on the right. These two rotor discs are connected via a shaft with insulated coupling in the centre. The rotors have 6 “petals” of aluminium foil on them (both sides) as do the inner sides of the stator plates. The acrylic is all 4mm thick. The stators have a covering on their surfaces of 2mm thick acrylic to prevent arc-over, as a high voltage exists here. When one rotors petals are exactly in line with its stator petals, (fully meshed) position, this rotary capacitor is at its maximum capacitance. At the same time, the other rotary cap. is fully unmeshed and at its lowest capacitance. In other words, both rotary capacitors are always at 180 degrees out of synch. with each other. An initial HT charge is placed on the machine from a momentary external supply, then removed. The load, is connected in series with both the rotors. As the rotors are rotated, the fully meshed capacitor is unmeshed while the other rotor is now going into mesh. This causes the unmeshing rotor to transfer its charge over to the meshing capacitor. This results in an AC current going back and forth between the two rotary capacitors indefinitely. The power is high voltage at low current, so to be a practical output, it needs to be stepped down via a transformer to something useful e.g. 12 volts, whilst at the same time, the current rises to again something useful. I, without using a step-down transformer, used two 8 watt fluo. tubes in series as a load. These stayed illuminated for 4 hours without diminishing in brightness, till I stopped the test. Because my machine is only small, there is not enough output to “close the loop” i.e. take the output and feed it to the drive motor to make the system self-sustaining. A larger machine would have enough output to be self sustaining.
If this was yet just another alternator, there would be no point to it. THE point of this machine, is that it has no back-torque – in other words, the drive motor has no work to do as in conventional alternators where you have to fight the drag of the back-emf. The following, is the secret of cancellation of all back torque: The unmeshing rotor, DOES experience electrostatic back drag, BUT at this same instant, the rotor going INTO mesh, experiences attraction assistance electrostatic pull in closing. These two forces are identical and so CANCEL EACH OTHER OUT !!! At 300 rpm, the machine outputs 50 hz. For a greater output machine, there are several options. Increase the rpm. Increase the number of pairs of rotary capacitors. Increase the diameter of the rotors. Reduce the air gap between the rotors and the stators.
I believe Doubling the diameter of the rotors provides FOUR TIMES the output. Halving the air gap provides FOUR TIMES the output. Doubling the rpm, doubles the output. Because of imperfect insulation etc. the machine would loose 9 microamps, however, the machine also acts as a DC generator and keeps the HT charge topped up. There is no heat in this machine and it is very quiet to run. I have experimented with many variables in the number of aluminium foil petals, but it appears that 6 is the optimum. If you are interested in building this machine, I can also supply photographs and the associated circuit diagrams.
As you know, capacitors are open-circuit devices, so cannot loose their charge. My circuit never has a capacitor connected via its terminals directly to the load. Instead, the capacitors are connected in series and in series with the load. The load only gets power when the rotary capacitors are actually rotating and sending the current back and forth between them There ARE losses, but the machine also works as a HT DC generator which tops up the otherwise wasted HT losses.
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