Steele Braden Generator

[Tishatang]

For Steele

Example of magnetic resonance:

Wireless electricity? It's here | KSL.com

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, hi turion, could you share any information on your first build, like watt output, if you got around to stepping the voltage down that is.
Or what did you see that impressed you, thanks.
Peace love light

[Turion]

SkyWatcher,
What interested me was that the output was close to the input used to run the motor. This interested me enough to want to build a bigger device with MORE rotors so I could begin to determine the relationship between amp draw per rotor/stator combo vs output from same. Since there is virtually NO LENZ because of the attraction at the same time there is repulsion, you only "pay" for the weight of the rotors you are turning and friction losses in the bearings and in the air. I wanted to see if there might be a break point where output exceeds losses. Steele believes there might be and he has worked with this for quite a while.

Unfortunately, I am in the process of moving from one house to another and don't have the time right now to get it put together. I'm hoping to get things squared away in the next few days, at least enough to squeeze in a few hours on this project because I believe it deserves a really, REALLY close look. Especially when I know if I run the motor in the 3BGS configuration I can dramatically extend the run time of the battery. Lots of possibilities here.

Dave

[Turion]

Still At It

Just wanted to drop a note that I haven't given up on this project, just been busy getting my present house ready for sale and fixing up the new place to move into. Just too many projects!!

Anyway,I have been busy the last two days cutting out new petals for my rotors. I wasn't satisfied with the ones I had in place, so I pulled them all off and started over. Thats close to 300 petals I had to redraw and cut out, and that is the most tedious freaking project I have ever been involved with. My advice is make sure the pattern you are using is PERFECT before you do more than one rotor. I sure learned that the hard way.

Should have results to show by next week sometime, if not sooner. Still have other projects to get done, but I am trying to squeeze this in whenever I have a few minutes. I also have a generator I have been working on for months that is about ready for testing, so that is taking up time too. BUSY!!!

Dave

[kenssurplus]

Well, it has been several months since I last posted about this. I finally found enough pennys to purchase the remaining hardware needed for an initial test.

Edge view showing 4 stator sets, 2 back sets (meshed position) tied to the left top allthread and the two front sets (unmeshed position) tied to the right top allthread.



A view showing the drive motor - a 1 HP DC 120 Volt dual shaft motor.



Front view showing the spacing for a stator and its associated two rotors. Also showing the brush connection for the High Voltage supply (in this case an insulation tester). This also shows one of the bearing mounts (a 2X4 piece of wood)



A close up of the rotor mechanical mounting.

Here is a video of the initial testing:

Braden Steele Generator - Youtube

[kenssurplus]

Hello to any and all who may still have an interest here.

Just a quick update on my testing of this Steele Braden Generator setup.
There was a possible error in the high voltage supply to this generator:
previous video:

Rotor 1<-----insulation tester positive-- N/C --ins test GND---->Rotor 2
This connection scheme did not allow charge to be shuttled back and forth between the two 180 degree opposite rotor shafts.

current connection:

Rotor 1<-----ins test pos------>Rotor 2

I have also tested variants of high voltage power factor correction capacitors with microwave diodes.

The results: there is high voltage DC potential developed at the terminals of the pole pig transformer, but they are both the same potential so no current flows through the transformer.

A short update video:

Steele Braden Generator 1 - YouTube

[Turion]

Response from Steele

Hi Kenssurplus,
Great to see someone getting into it!
What rpm are you running the system at?
What is the air gap distance between rotors and stators?
I can’t see any insulating Perspex between the rotor and the stators, is there any in here?
With this insulation, you can then have the rotors much closer to the stators without arc-over, and get much higher swing of capacitance.
The greater the swing, the more output.
Also of course, the more sets of rotors and stators you have, the greater the output.
I realise that you have just used what is conveniently available as the drive motor.
I used a very small motor here, as that is all that is required.
The whole point, is that the system completely “kills” all back-torque when a load is connected to the output, so the only work that the drive motor has to do is overcome very small bearing friction and very small air drag.
My prototype had aluminium foil “petals” fixed to the surfaces of the Perspex.
This gives far less wind drag than open metal segments.
My prototype is designed to handle up to 20kv DC without arc-over.
This is achieved by having the insulating 2mm thick Perspex sheets between the rotors and stators with at least 33mm overlap, to prevent arc-over around the edges.
At 20kv, for every 440 picofarads of swing, you get 20 watts AC output.
With 6 “petals”, run at 500 rpm, you get 50 Hz output.
To initiate the generation, you only need to supply the 20kv DC across the stators and rotors for a moment.
The neon transformer you are using, is probably rated at 15kv rms.
This is 20kv peak.
What are you using for the DC rectification?
Even half wave rectification is adequate to supply the initiating charge.
This must be done while the machine is actually being rotated at its full speed e.g. 500 rpm.
After this “priming” action, from then on, the machine tops up its own HT DC which handles the microamps leakage.
My machine normally would leak 9 microamps, but as stated, this doesn’t matter, as it is self continuously replaced, as well as providing an output.
I used two 8 watt fluo tubes in series as the load.
I initially ran the machine for four hours without the fluo lamps diminishing in illumination!
This conclusively proves that they are running on the recycled power – free energy.
If you have further questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.
I am very keen for everyone to get this machine up and running at least as good as I have.
Then, by adding more sets of rotors and stators, you will get a practical output wattage.
All the best,
Steele Braden.

[kenssurplus]

Hello Steele, Dave, all

The RPM is variable because of the DC motor and the variable transformer / FWBR used to drive it. Initially, I started it off as slow as the motor would start, and then built up speed as testing progressed. I don't have a tachometer, so I don't know for sure, but would guess around 300 to 800 RPM tops (although the motor is rated at 2400 RPM at 120 VDC).

Because of my lack of experimenting budget, I could only buy a few (8) 1/2 inch half width jam nuts. The rest on the 1/2 inch allthread shaft are full width. The spacing limitation for me is not arc over, as much as those nuts limit how close the rotor can get to the stator. The closest spacing rotor to stator acrylic is 4 mm and the largest is 1.5 cm. If I could get AC through the pole pig utility transformer, then I would optimise all spacing and add more rotor / stator sets (of course pending any extra funding).

The stators are sandwiched between two acrylic sheets. The rotors are bare towards the stator as I didn't have enough acrylic to sandwich those on both sides. Also thought that I could get closer spacing this way. Arc-over only happens around 14.4KV. I have tried to maintain the 33 mm insulation distances you have specified.

On the first video on initial testing, the Neon Sign Transformer (NST) was only used for step down in reverse operation. That did not work.
What did work is lighting a gutted Compact Flourescent Light (CFL) - but that was with no capability of sloshing charge back and forth from one rotor shaft to the other one.

DC rectification is accomplished inside the insulation tester.
The insulation tester provides a variable voltage output from 0 volts to 1.5K on one range and from 0 volts to 15K on the other range. It has two microamp loss meter ranges one is 100 microamps and the other is 500 microamps.

I do not remove the "initial charge" as I want to measure if there is an arc-over and how much leakage current I have through the system. In the initial testing first video, it shows about 500 microamps leakage curent at 14.4 KV. That has now dropped to 120 microamps. I attribute this to constructing the bearing supports from wood that had been rained on. Now they are mostly dried out. If I had sufficient budget I would have used thick acrylic plate.

My problem currently, is that I seem to not have any AC output from the 180 degree opposed stator sets. With those connected directly to the pole pig utility transformer, and supply voltage cranked up to 14 - 14.4KV there is no reverse induction taking place through the transformer. To verify HV on those terminals, I connected a 8 watt gutted CFL (with all of the electronics removed and only the CFL tube and tube leads remaining) between the terminals - no light. I also tried a 32 watt flourescent tube one side to one terminal, and one side to the other terminal. No light would light unless I arced through the tube at one end to a ground or some other much lower potential metal object - but then it shows much more microamps pulled from the HV source insulation tester. So there is HV DC at the pole pig terminals but not AC or at least not enough.

Now one test I did was to hold the grounded 32 watt flourescent tube about 1 cm from one terminal and it would arc at a frequency of probably 30 hz. So I guess, if all else failed I could set up a mechanical rotary spark gap to produce AC to go through the pole pig transformer - but then if I do that, whats the point of building and using this Steele Braden Generator? Help!

[Cadman]

Hi Kenssurplus,

In the video it looks like the left and right rotors and stators are in phase with each other, but it's hard to see. Shouldn't they be in opposite phase for AC output? I mean the rotors on the right should be over an open stator section and the left rotors should be over a solid section.

Thanks for building and testing. I'm very interested in this device.

Regards

[kenssurplus]

Hi Cadman,

Thank you for your interest and for watching the video. The left and right rotor sets are opposed by 180 degrees so that the left side rotors are covered metal to metal and the right side rotors ar metal to open area. The reason it loosk like it is not, is because the stators are shifted for each side. I needed as much clearance for the opposite polarity output allthread as I could get so as to maintain that 33mm spacing Steele talks about. As a result, its not as easy to see as if all stators were lined up.

Thanks again for your comment.

[Turion]

From Steele

Hi Kenssurplus,
I suggest that you re-read my description on page one to reacquaint yourself with the machine.
Also have a look at the “photobuckets”. Page one.
The first one clearly shows the basic circuit that you should not deviate from.
It is very simple, so let’s keep it that way.
You will see that all the four stators are electrically connected together.
This can be regarded as the machines negative.
The two rotors, aquire an undulating positive.
When applying the “priming” HT DC charge, this is momentarily connected to the stators (negative) and either one of the rotors (positive).
This is a MOMENTARY charge input and does not have to be permanently connected.
You need to apply the priming charge whilst the rotors are actually rotating at their designated top speed e.g. 500 rpm.
All the stators have their “petals” in line – synchronised.
The two rotors, have their petals exactly out of step.
This means that when the left rotary capacitor has its rotor petals fully aligned – in mesh with its stator petals, the other rotary capacitor has its petals in the fully unmeshed condition.
So, one rotary capacitor is at its maximum capacitance, while the other is at its minimum capacitance.
Both rotors need to be electrically isolated from each other.
I used a nylon coupling.
We are, with this small machine, only dealing with very small wattages.
10 kilowatt transformers are not required or one horsepower to drive the machine.
With two only rotary capacitors using 300 mm diameter rotors, you get under 20 watts output.
To get an approximation of what to expect as an output, you need to check one of the rotary capacitors when it is fully in mesh (maximum capacitance).
Every 440 picofarad swing at 20 kv delivers 20 watts output.
Two only 300 mm diameter rotors have somewhat less than 440 picofarads swing.
What decides the upper voltage on the machine typically, is the type of load.
I used two 8 watt fluo tubes in series.
I don’t know what the actual “striking” voltage is of these tubes, but if it is around 500 volts, then with two in series, you obviously will get a flash at 1kv.
You could add many more fluo tubes in series and have them all light up.
No current limiting resistor is required in series with the fluo tubes, as it is so small.
Because this striking voltage accumulates many times per revolution, your eye registers that the tubes appear to be in constant illumination.
If you don’t have a capacitance checking meter, there is another way which is very simple.
Put one rotary capacitor fully into mesh – maximum capacitance.
With a signal generator operating at maybe one megacycle,(12 volts or so), feed this through the capacitor and a full wave bridge rectifier to convert it to DC.
Now put a DC milliamp meter in series with the DC output.
Take note of this current.
Now substitute the rotary capacitor with an “off the shelf” fixed capacitor and repeat the current test.
By trying various fixed capacitors, you will eventually find one that is close to the same current throughput.
Simply read off this capacitors value as printed on it.
Now you can calculate how many rotary capacitors you need to get a 440 picofarad swing.
Also check the rotary capacitor in the fully unmeshed condition.
Now you have its capacitance swing.
Doubling the diameter of the rotors with correspondingly larger stators delivers FOUR times the output.
At 500 rpm, you could probably use 600 mm diameter rotors if there is not too much wobble.
Remember, the closer the rotors are to the stators, the greater the capacitance achieved.
Also 2mm thick insulation Perspex between the rotor and stator is required.
Note, attempt to only do tests when there is a dry atmosphere.
Humid air saps the HT charge from the machine, preventing it from operating at its maximum potential.
Multiple rotary capacitors provides a practical output.
Best regards,
Steele Braden.

[rosehillworks]

A Capacitor That Holds A Hundred Thousand Times More Power Than It Should - YouTube
I thought this might help maybe it is a good way to increase the output of this machine .

[kenssurplus]

Steele, Dave, Rosehillworks, Cadman, All,

I went ahead and connected all the stators together, and put the load between the two rotor shafts as suggested. I also closed up some of the widest spacings between rotors and stators.

I now see 2.1 VAC step down voltage through the pole pig transformer - but only as long as I have open circuit on the low voltage connections, and 13.8 KV applied. As soon as I remove the HV source, the output voltage drops away. The pole pig normally expects to see 14400 volts AC at its high voltage terminals and will output 240 VAC at its low voltage terminals so it has a ratio of 60:1. At 60:1, 2.1 VAC X 60 = 126 volts AC applied at the high voltage terminals. (Anyone correct me if I have done this wrong).

With only the gutted CFL as a load, it runs a few seconds after the HV source is removed. The CFL brightness I would estimate to be around 1/10th of full brightness.

Having the CFL parallel with the pole pig transformer, it does not light at all except if I push the voltage up to 14KV and an arc-over happens, then it will flash once.

It looks as though I have pushed this as far as a no budget project can go. If I want to increase the output I will need to buy many more sheets of acrylic and make more stator / rotor combos. There is still room for 8 more, maybe 10 if I really squeeze everything tight.

Oh, there is one thing I should mention. Don't try a NST as it is only rated for 10Kv. Pushing 14KV through one may damage the wiring insulation and just arc-over internally. I tried mine again and the low voltage leads were alive with 14KV DC with a HV ac ripple.

So, I can say, THIS WORKS! If you build it right, it will do as advertised.

Thanks Steele! Thanks everyone, This has been fun!

[Turion]

As the guy who started this thread, I feel some responsibility to keep it alive, so I guess it's time for a little CPR. There's a heartbeat here just waiting to be heard.

As kenssurplus demonstrated, THIS WORKS!! The little prototype I built and shipped off to my son the engineer did exactly what Steele said it would do, which is why I began construction of a larger model. But then life got in the way. I had to remodel my house so we could sell, remodel part of the new place so we could move in...actually MOVE. And I have been busy digging ditch to get a fence in that my dogs can't tear down or dig under, and I have some VERY determined dogs! I have also spent every possible spare second on my generator project.

But now it's time. I have everything together that I need except the motor, so I will begin assembly this week and see what I get. I have ten rotors, which may not be enough, but I can always add more if the output isn't as much as I would like it to be. By using a motor with shafts out both ends, I can connect a long rod to each end of the motor shaft ( one for the positive side and one for the negative...electrically isolated from each other) and I am limited only by my own laziness as to the number of rotors and stators I add to this....and possibly by the length of my garage if I intend this to be an indoor project. But I have it on an 8' Bench, so I can add a mess of rotors and stators before I run out of room, and Lowes makes those handy shaft couplers if my shafts need to be extended. So I plan on eventually discovering what the capacity of my motor is. LOL. It won't be the FIRST time I've burnt up a motor.

Here is the video of al my parts...not too exciting I know, but I was SOOOOOO happy to be done cutting out those petals and attaching them to rotors and stators!!!!!

Dave

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PRsy_KWinSY

[Turion]

Progress

Just a short video explanation of an issue, how easily it can be solved, and what I did so I wouldn't have to start over and make all new stators...

Also a bit of an update of how little I've actually done toward getting this replication off the ground.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhcwdSW919Y

Dave