Radiant Energy and Actual Results?

[Kevin]

Kevin, have you verified that Aarons magnet config was not right? Because I tested the superpole setup like in Aarons picture and did not get improved results. Yesterday I spent all night soldering the 6 transistor circuit for my SSG. I will use two trifilar coils. One strand of one coil will be used for triggering and the other five left strands will be used as power coils. I have still one transistor left unused, I think I will also use my recovery coil as a power coil so I will be using all the transistors. Just got the setup up and running. Will see if I get improved results. Later I will add the ground wire with the diode.
One more question for Kevin, can you tell me more about that ground testing you did? Did you simply put both leads of the voltmeter in the ground near each other and did get those voltages? Because by doing so I am not getting anything, maybe 0.01 - 0.02V.
Thanks

Hi Jetijs,

What a sychronicity! Probably the PATHS mind time travel Module. Just today I was thinking about how come no one has inquired about my being quite surprised at Aaron's drawings.

I have spoken at length with Aaron and his drawings are accurate renditions of the superpole setup.

The way I have mine setup is now being tested and documented. The results should be available within 1-2 weeks.

Regarding testing the ground- What I did the other day was just walk around my property and stick the leads from my volt meter in the ground...3-4 inches apart from each other. I had the meter set at the 20 volt DC setting. The earth was a bit damp (it had rained 3 days previous). Also, we sit on a huge aquafier about 100 feet down (I do not know if this makes any difference).

In Maui I used two steel rods and measured hundreds of locations with the leads taped to the rods and the rods 3-4 inches into the ground at each location. I believe a better test would have been to put them deeper and to use copper rods, but this was not feasible for me at that time.

btw, it is 245 am here right now and it has been raining for about 5 hours and just stopped, so I went out to the location that was giving me 3.3 volts the other day and it is now reading reading only .42 volts. I am not sure why this is, but have noticed variance like this in the past.

Also, as a little antenna type fun, I put the ground lead into the ground just now and put the positive lead on the unpainted metal siding of my barn....got a .76 volt reading. The barn is still under construction and there is NO electricity in it or near it. Also, there are many places where the metal (galvanized steel) siding is 2-3 inches into the ground.

Hope this helps.

[Aaron]

ground rods

For the ground rods to check voltage in ground, try one copper and one steel rod and see what happens. If you get negative voltage, switch leads on the voltmeter to the rods.

When I found over 2volts, I had a copper rod in the ground about 2 feet deep and about 1 foot sticking out. I put one lead on the volt meter to that. Then I put the other lead of the voltmeter with an "extension cord" connected to the steel rod and I poked around on the ground up to several feet away from the copper rod until I found the highest voltage.

If you get 2 volts you're doing great. If you get 3+, that is phenomenal.

[Jetijs]

Thanks Kevin and Aaron
some months ago we made a grounding contur near the house, basically we took three about 4feet long 1" diameter stainless steel rods and hammered the into ground a half feet below ground level. The rods were about 4 feet apart from each other forming a triangle. Then we digged up some of the ground to gave better access to the rods. We welded the thre rods together with a thinner rod. When the rods were all jouned together, we burried the hole and left only one end of a stainless steel screw above the ground level. Initially it was planned to be lightning catcher (I do not know the exact term) that grounds all the lightning energy via an isolated antenna that is raised to the highest point. This way if lightning hits the house, the energy travels through the antenna and into the grounded rods doing no damage to the house. So now I am using this rod system as a ground that is attached to my SSG through a diode. Its been raining for several days now, I think that the ground should be good. Will see if this will improve something. Also I now use the whole 6 transistor setup (two trifilar coils and one recovery coil with only one strand), tha magnets are in the standart N facing out position, double stacked. I will post pictures later. Now I am in the battery conditioning process, after some charge/discharge cycles I will try to rotate the batteries to see if I can get a COP above 1. But I observed an interesting thing last night. At first my SSG was powered with a variac/bridge rectifier/ some smoothing capacitors at 12v. When I first run the six transistor SSG this way, I made the neon bulb experiment. I grabbed one lead of the neon bulb in my fingers and touched various places on my SSG with the other lead. Touching either charging battery terminal made the bulb to turn on to a moderate brightness. The same happened when I touched the transistor cases, then I touched the central steel shaft of my SSG and the bulb lid up dimmly, it did so also if sime screws in the plywood base of the SSG was touched. That means, that there is a field around the SSG that makes any metal to gain enough charge to light up a neon bulb. I went further with this experiment, I touched the leads of the smoothing capacitor, the leads of the bridge rectifier on either side and even the variac metal casing, the bulb lid up at moderate brightness. Now I touched some other devices withe the neon bulb lead to see what will happen. The neon bulb lid up when I touched the computer case, or turned off TV screen (static electricity?). I have this CBA battery tester attached to my laptop, it has an aluminum radiator, a fan and a fangrill made of metal. So I touched this fan grill and the bulb lid up again. The interesting part is that when I disconnect the laptop from the AC outlet, the bulb does not turn on anymore. The same thing happens if I power the SSG with a battery instead of variac, the bulb does not shine at all, no matter what I am touching with it. My house has no ground wiring as it was built a long time ago at so called "russian times", back then nobody worried about electrical safety. Instead of grounding wo now have a so called leak automat (I dont know the correct term), that counts the electricity going in and electricity that is going out, if there is a leak, it will automatically shut off the electricity. These devides are constructed so, that I could touch the leads of the 220v AC outlet directly with my fingers and would not be soched or shoched only a little bit before the automat shuts off the power. Not that I've tried it
I made another experiment, I connected 3 neon bulbs in series and attached one lead to my computer case and the other to a radiator (ground), the bulbs dtarted to flash at about one time per second. I think this is due to the capacity of the metal case, the voltage potential takes some time to rise enough to ionize the gas inside the bulbs, hen that hapens, the bulbs start to conduct and even up the voltage difference in a fast flash. These bulbs are designed to come up at voltages above 90V I tried to measure the voltage across the bulb when It was shining attached to a computer case, the meter did not read anything also when I attached the meter leads to the bulb, the bulb turned off. I gues that is why John Bedini says, taht there should be no measurement device on the charging battery, because this affects the charging. Also I can light up even three bulbs in series, but not more than one in parallel.

[elias]

Use thicker diodes for better aetheric transfer

Jetijs,

I have noticed that neon bulbs are good indicators of aetheric density when touching with only one side.

I constructed a simple boost dc/dc converter (i.e. coil pulser) and I attached different types of diodes to the output while touching the output of the diode with a neon bulb. I used 1n4007 at first and it was lighting abit dim, Then I used 1N5408 and the bulb was a bit brighter, and Then I used a 6A4 diode and the neon bulb lit much brighter this time. This brought me to the conclusion that thicker elements make aether transfer much better.

Some time ago I used a normal 12v bulb instead of a neon bulb and I could also light that with one wire!!! and I am pretty sure I did this, but I can't do it now! I don't remember if I did something special.

Elias

[Jetijs]

elias,
neon bulbs are interesting indeed
Heres a picture with a bulb touching the fan grill of my CBA battery tester:



Edit:
Kevin, I tried the setup with a grounding wire and diode attached to the + terminal of the charging battery. If I power my SSG with battery, then everything works fine. But then I tried to run the SSG form a DC power supply. When I turned the power supply on, all the neons started to flash and something started to burn as I could see smoke. I turned the power supply off fast. Turns out that an arc jumped across all the neon bulb leads and this started to burn the soldering plate to carbon that also conducts electricity. I cleaned the space between those leads free from the carbon to prevent shorts. I removed the grounding cable and started the SSG again, this time it run ok, but the amp draw increased 3 times. Turned out that one of the transistors is blown. So an advice to others - DO NOT USE THE GROUNDING WIRE AND DIODE ON + TERMINAL OF THE CHARGING BATTERY IF YOU POWER YOUR SSG FROM A POWER SUPPLY.

[robiwan]

Dear All,

Just joined, and have watched the second DVD of the Free Energy series (Energy from the Vacuum A Documentary Series) featuring John Bedini. I just felt a moment of "eureka" when he was talking about what radiant energy is. Given what we're after (the spike from the collapsing magnetic field), it's fairly easy to be build solid state designs outputting high voltage spikes with a very moderate input power. But I'm confused on the output towards the battery:

His latest charger (rotating horizontally) didn't use any reservoir capacitor, he said. The reservoir cap designs all use some triggering mechanism (such as a neon bulb to a thyristors gate), but I don't know if the cap-less design uses that or just couples the spike from the coils directly to the battery?

Does anyone here have input on this? Maybe the man himself ? Respect!

/R

[Kevin]

Jetijs,

That is quite an underground antenna you have around your house!

I read about your transistors burning up. Sorry to laugh, I know it is a hassle. Over the course of my experimenting I have fried well over 75 of them!

Looking forward to seeing how your conditioned batteries do!

[Jetijs]

Kevin, in fact this was my first blown transistor over the three month period that I have been testing varioys SSG. I have built two SSG setups, one with a bike wheel and another with all parts made custom. Also I have built Ricks fan mod so that a big computer fan runs on a SSG circuit, charging batteries In all this time I did not blow any transistor, till now
Also I considered why the transistors blew. I figured out that this might have happen because of my variac, because when I experimented with joecells a year ago, the tube conditioning process involved using a simply rewired power supply like this:

I could do this without a problem with other power supplies but never with my variac, there was always a spark. One electronic guy told me that the variac is wired a bit different and can't be used like this. Therefor I probably acted harshly by saying that you can not add a ground/diode cable if you are powering your SSG with a powesupply, in fact you can, but do not use a variac like I did

[Jetijs]

Kevin, any results yet with your "non superpole" superpole setup?

[ren]

I was wondering about the superpole diagrams that Aaron drew too. I have sandwitched two magnets together but I had both norths facing out towards the coil, essentially making a bigger magnet I guess. Id be interested to see if the diagram Aaron drew does work. One interesting rotor I made was the shape of a swastika (no ties to the Nazis here, it is acutally an ancient symbol that we unfortunately associate purely with Hitler). The ends of the "fan" were a whole magnet where the north was at the front and the south at the tip. The north would be attracted to the coil and cause it to fire repelling it and drawing the south towards the coil at the same time. I never measured any charging results as this was a mechanical switching, But it rotated excellently and I was always interested to see if there was any benefit of having the poles move sideways across the coil.

One other question regarding ground rods. I have seen diagrams where the ground rod is used but normally it is positioned on the negative, i.e between emitter and negative of run battery. Is this the correct place? I was a little confused by Aarons post, it seemed to indicate that the ground rod was placed between the diode off collector and the charge + terminal.

[seamus]

Hi all. This is my first real post here. I was invited to this forum by Aaron, after a little e-mail correspondence over a couple of years. I think we were both researching pulsed DC electrolysis when I first contacted him.

Anyways, all this talk of radiant pulses and metal structures picking them up and sending them to the battery made me think of the EV Gray tube, in which a double or triple layer of copper mesh surrounds a spark-gap radiant discharge to collect same and send it to the specially-built motor. Has anyone tried simply building a metal mesh structure around their coils to attempt to pick up "leaked" radiant energy?

S

[Jan H]

Hi all. This is my first real post here. I was invited to this forum by Aaron, after a little e-mail correspondence over a couple of years. I think we were both researching pulsed DC electrolysis when I first contacted him.

Anyways, all this talk of radiant pulses and metal structures picking them up and sending them to the battery made me think of the EV Gray tube, in which a double or triple layer of copper mesh surrounds a spark-gap radiant discharge to collect same and send it to the specially-built motor. Has anyone tried simply building a metal mesh structure around their coils to attempt to pick up "leaked" radiant energy?

S

First of all, welcome!

i have heard of the EV-gray tube you described, although i think wrapping it around the coil will not do the SG any good. i have read posts that state that messing with the field around the coil lowers the rpm. Besides, you are getting the radiant anyway.
I still want to make a gray tube one day, but as i recall the electrode tips have to be coated with some kind of precious metal, that's what held me back from doing it

[Jetijs]

Jan H,
The tips should be coated with silver, because this prevents the copper electrode blackening and slow burning up from all the sparking. For some tests, you do not need the coating.

[gabriolaman]

has anyone tryed magnetic shielding on the back of the coil i know its attracted to magents but it supposed to also reflect the field

[adam ant]

Jetijs... it sounds like your SSG is resonating with the AC line. you said the bulbs were pulsing about once per second... or 60hz. are you on a 60hz system? this could explain why it is working with the monitor, and not working with the battery. every pulse of your timing may send out encapsulated 60hz "packets" that are forcing all metal in the area to resonate with this same frequency.

maybe the SSG is pushing a Tesla type electrical "broadcast" directly from your house mains.