Basic Free Energy Device

[Turion]

Update

I FINALLY tested the new coil today. It solved all the issues I was having and still retained the benefits of speeding up under load and reducing the amp draw under load. So no self induction of the coils (Lenz) to impede the motor and no magnetic drag of the iron cores to impede the motor. The motor HAULS ASS.

I typed out a long sob story of what I have been through to get to where I am now, but that stuff doesn't mean anything to anybody but my wife and I, so I will save it for the book they write about my life when I become famous.

This works guys. It just plain works. 257 volts at 2.4 amps per coil pair. Six coil pair. It runs on just under 800 watts right now, which will be reduced when I make my next bunch of modifications. How much, I have no idea. But with the 3 battery circuit I can recover better than 80% of the input power, which gives me a COP>22 or MORE right NOW. Who knows what it will be when I make the changes. I hope it is better, but I intend to go to smaller magnets, so the output may go down.

I'm going to have to wind all new coils for my big machine, but that's ok.

So who has money to buy this thing? Matt needs to retire from farming. My wife needs to retire too. Come on, cough it up. For 10 or 20 million the secret to free energy can be yours. With a discount coupon its only 19.95

Dave

[Mario]

Hi Dave,

I FINALLY tested the new coil today. It solved all the issues I was having and still retained the benefits of speeding up under load and reducing the amp draw under load. So no self induction of the coils (Lenz) to impede the motor and no magnetic drag of the iron cores to impede the motor. The motor HAULS ASS.

does this mean the motor runs at the same speed and consumption regardless wether there's a coil in front of the magnet or not? If yes great job!
What is the open voltage of your coils? (no load connected).

cheers,
Mario

[Turion]

Testing

Mario,

I am still testing. The voltage difference between what I was getting with the other coil and this one is significant. A coil pair connected to a single 300 watt bulb is only showing 36 volts AC at 4.5 amps. Not anywhere NEAR the 257 volts I was getting with my last coil. I still have a ton of experimenting to do. In answer to your most IMPORTANT question, the motor doesn't really "see" if the coil is there or not, whether or not it is under load. There is the slightest bit of magnetic attraction to the iron core but 99% of that is eliminated.

[Mario]

Well, that sounds great. Since you said you wanted to try bifilar coils I guess that's what you changed. Is this in the normal sense? I mean winding two strands simultaneously, then connect them in series (end of one goes to the start of the other). I ask because I did tests on a G-field machine I built like 8 years ago, but I couldn't see a real difference between normal and bifilar…

Wonder how you eliminated magnetic core drag, well but I don't have 10-20 millions, so….

cheers,
Mario

[Mario]

… Then again.. I suppose you're using something like 5 or 7 magnets on the rotor and you have 6 coil pair positions, anyway a precessional setup.

I think we already talked a bout this, but from what I had seen on my precessional setups, even though getting rid of the big startup magnetic lock, once up to speed there wasn't any gain or difference in speed versus a normal setup. The cogging force is evenly and smoothly distributed thanks to the odd/even setup, but it still causes some drag. But maybe you're doing something different?

cheers,
Mario

[Turion]

Mario,
You wound bifilar coils, then connected them in series and it made no difference? Interesting.

Yes, that is EXACTLY what I did. I wound with 12 strands because multiples of 12 give you the most options. A lot of numbers divide evenly into 12, so lots of possible combinations of wires. 24 strands is also divisible by 12, and 60 strands is best because it is also divisible by 5 and 10, so you REALLY get more options. Connecting strands in series increases the voltage, but more strands left in parallel increases the amperage. So you can seriously adjust the output of your coil. And remember, you do NOT have to do the same thing with all the strands. For instance, if I have just six strands, I can put four in series to increase voltage and leave the other two in parallel to increase the amps. Mix and match to get the most desirable output up to the limit of what the coil is capable of producing.

EDIT: Bi and Citfta were kind enough to alert me to the fact that my statement above is incorrect and that incorrect combinations can cause the shorter lengths to load down the longer lengths. I want to see that happen, so I am going to play with it anyway, but no reason for others to go down the rabbit hole with me. Bi was kind enough to send me a chart of the combos that WILL work with six wires
S is for Series and P is for Parallel
1S6P So if you have only ONE wire in series, obviously all 6 are in Parallel. When I first looked at the chart, it made no sense to me. But now I get it. Weak mind!
6S1P
3S2P
2S3P


See, if you had 12 strands you would get
1S12P
12P1S
2P6S
6S2P
3S4P
4S3P
MORE possible combinations.


As to the rotor, my big machine has a rotor with six big neos on it. There are six coils on each side of the rotor. The motors I am using were not capable of breaking that magnetic lock to even start the machine, and I spent nearly a YEAR trying different things to deal with that problem. Matt designed a board to basically run the thing as a motor until it was up to speed, and then switch over. That worked great until I threw switches at the wrong time and burnt up about $159 worth of parts. I Also had a really NICE switch that allowed me to change between 36, 24 or 12 volts as the motor supply from the batteries, but I burnt up one of those too. That magnetic drag pulled too many amps through the 30 amp switch. To physically rotate the rotor 1/6 of its rotation, where it would lock up again, I had to put a two foot breaker bar at each end of the machine and give it everything I had. And even once I got it rotating I could only run it long enough to measure outputs because the magnetic drag was causing the motor to draw more than 60 amps. I smoked a few motors.

What I came to realize is that speeding up under load is just NOT enough. You HAVE to significantly reduce or eliminate that magnetic drag. Different core material like ferrite or metglass might be best, but ferrite is expensive, and I would need large custom cores. When I am done with everything else, I will try it. Metglass is directional, and harder than heck to work with. The edges are like razors and will cut you to pieces. I wound one core so Citfta could do some testing and it was covered in blood. It comes in a roll 6 inches wide and would have to be cut into strips and rolled up. I have an entire roll of that... about enough to make cores for ONE machine. I will test that also when I am done with everything else.

Reducing or eliminating the magnetic drag is what I spent the LAST year working on, and I am not done yet. I know HOW to do it, and have reduced it enough to get everything to work, proving my theory correct, but I know I can do better. The issue is, I basically have to rebuild the machine from scratch every time I make a change to improve it. I went through four different designs before I found one that would handle the magnetic forces that want to flex either the rotor to hit the coils or the coil holders to hit the rotor. I went through a DOZEN rotors, having the holes that hold the magnets reduced by hundredths of a milimeter each time but magnets kept getting "sucked" out of the rotor by the magnetic attraction. And when a magnet hits that iron core at several thousand RPM, you better be wearing a flack jacket. I have two magnets I have never found. One is up in the attic because I found the hole where it went through the ceiling, but the other one is still MIA. I know Matt has a similar story!! I finally figured out a solution to THAT problem too, which allows me to use all the rotors that I have already had made. Since I found the RIGHT design for the machine, I have been trying to simplify it so that it is less expensive for OTHERS to replicate, and have built four different versions of THAT to incorporate the things I have learned about reducing the magnetic drag.

I have tried a setup with six magnets on the rotor and five coils on each side, as you talked about, but the magnetic drag was still too great. Every one of these machines was a significant financial investment.

At the present time I am really working on TWO machines. One machine that is 6/12 (six magnets and 12 coils) on which I am experimenting with a new rotor with smaller magnets to see how that effects output as well as drag. And a second machine that is 6/10 which will incorporate my solution to reduce magnetic drag for the first time on THAT model, and will ALSO have smaller magnets. That machine is being built from scratch. It just takes time. Since each machine costs me about $1,500 to build, and I haven't been to a casino lately, it is taking time to accumulate all the parts. I want to compare inputs vs outputs on the two machines as well as look at the amp draw of the motor. I may have to settle for less output just for the peace of mind of knowing my motor is operating in a zone where it will last it's predicted lifetime.

Just to make myself clear. I do not envision this as a generator to power a house. I envision it as part of a system where the house runs off the three battery system and the generator is used to keep the primaries charged up so you always have a potential difference. But it MIGHT be able to be configured to put out the volts and amps necessary to run the electric motor in an electric car, which is the one project I REALLY want to work on.

I'm going to be testing all this next week with just the two coils I have now. One of the things I am VERY anxious to see is IF a DC electric motor will run on the rectified output and exactly what the DC output will be in volts and amps. Is it enough to loop the system? And running the D.C. motor, will it still speed up under load? I don't think it will run on only the output of two coils, but it MIGHT run with the output of four. That would still leave 8 to produce power on the 6/12 machine or six on the 6/10 machine.

I will not release anything more than I have on these machines until I have them working like I want them, can PROVE inputs and outputs with meters hard wired into the system, and know the design is as stable as I can get it. I don't want people spending $1,500 on a piece of junk that falls apart and doesn't give the output I claim it does. And THEN I am going to show a black box version of the machine to PROVE it works. And if we have enough people who want to replicate, take them through the replication process one component piece at a time. So I KNOW they built it EXACTLY right. I don't want people building half assed machines and then saying what I show doesn't work. I have had enough of THAT with the 3 battery system over the last ten years. I have been putting together a parts list for the machine, and sources for the parts. The BIG expense will be SIX of these... CMS Magnetics® 23 Gauge ESSEX Enameled Copper Magnet Wire 6894 Ft 11-lb

[Mario]

Mario,
You wound bifilar coils, then connected them in series and it made no difference? Interesting.

Yes, that is EXACTLY what I did. I wound with 12 strands because multiples of 12 give you the most options. A lot of numbers divide evenly into 12, so lots of possible combinations of wires. 24 strands is also divisible by 12, and 60 strands is best because it is also divisible by 5 and 10, so you REALLY get more options. Connecting strands in series increases the voltage, but more strands left in parallel increases the amperage. So you can seriously adjust the output of your coil. And remember, you do NOT have to do the same thing with all the strands. For instance, if I have just six strands, I can put four in series to increase voltage and leave the other two in parallel to increase the amps. Mix and match to get the most desirable output up to the limit of what the coil is capable of producing.

In terms of convenience for finding the right wire arrangement I totally agree with you. What I meant is, say I have a coil with 1000 turns of one wire. Now I wind another coil with the same size of wire but bifilar and wind 500 turns and connect them in series. Since the latter is in series, in both coils you have 1000 turns, and I didn't see any benefit in the bifilar arrangement versus the other, for this type of operation. Working with other things the bifilar behaves differently because it a much increased self-capacitance as opposed to the single wire arrangement.

EDIT: Bi and Citfta were kind enough to alert me to the fact that my statement above is incorrect and that incorrect combinations can cause the shorter lengths to load down the longer lengths. I want to see that happen, so I am going to play with it anyway, but no reason for others to go down the rabbit hole with me. Bi was kind enough to send me a chart of the combos that WILL work with six wires
S is for Series and P is for Parallel
1S6P So if you have only ONE wire in series, obviously all 6 are in Parallel. When I first looked at the chart, it made no sense to me. But now I get it. Weak mind!
6S1P
3S2P
2S3P


See, if you had 12 strands you would get
1S12P
12P1S
2P6S
6S2P
3S4P
4S3P
MORE possible combinations.


As to the rotor, my big machine has a rotor with six big neos on it. There are six coils on each side of the rotor. The motors I am using were not capable of breaking that magnetic lock to even start the machine, and I spent nearly a YEAR trying different things to deal with that problem. Matt designed a board to basically run the thing as a motor until it was up to speed, and then switch over.

That's something I'm working on right now, it seems like a good idea.. after all it's what John B. did with is trifilar cap pulser…to get rid of the motor

That worked great until I threw switches at the wrong time and burnt up about $159 worth of parts. I Also had a really NICE switch that allowed me to change between 36, 24 or 12 volts as the motor supply from the batteries, but I burnt up one of those too. That magnetic drag pulled too many amps through the 30 amp switch. To physically rotate the rotor 1/6 of its rotation, where it would lock up again, I had to put a two foot breaker bar at each end of the machine and give it everything I had. And even once I got it rotating I could only run it long enough to measure outputs because the magnetic drag was causing the motor to draw more than 60 amps. I smoked a few motors.

What I came to realize is that speeding up under load is just NOT enough. You HAVE to significantly reduce or eliminate that magnetic drag. Different core material like ferrite or metglass might be best, but ferrite is expensive, and I would need large custom cores. When I am done with everything else, I will try it. Metglass is directional, and harder than heck to work with. The edges are like razors and will cut you to pieces. I wound one core so Citfta could do some testing and it was covered in blood. It comes in a roll 6 inches wide and would have to be cut into strips and rolled up. I have an entire roll of that... about enough to make cores for ONE machine. I will test that also when I am done with everything else.

I'm not at all so sure the best core materials are best in THIS case. The whole magic happens in the DELAY of the reflected counter Magnetic field (Lenz) from core to magnet (which in a normal generator results in CEMF drag). The faster the core material the more efficient things get of course conventionally speaking, but we also get less of this delaying effect. If we use a plain iron core the effect is much easier to obtain and at lower speeds, but the output efficiency sucks! So my guess is again, John used the rods for a good reason, Since they're somewhat in the middle…But only experiments can tell...

Reducing or eliminating the magnetic drag is what I spent the LAST year working on, and I am not done yet. I know HOW to do it, and have reduced it enough to get everything to work, proving my theory correct, but I know I can do better. The issue is, I basically have to rebuild the machine from scratch every time I make a change to improve it. I went through four different designs before I found one that would handle the magnetic forces that want to flex either the rotor to hit the coils or the coil holders to hit the rotor. I went through a DOZEN rotors, having the holes that hold the magnets reduced by hundredths of a milimeter each time but magnets kept getting "sucked" out of the rotor by the magnetic attraction. And when a magnet hits that iron core at several thousand RPM, you better be wearing a flack jacket. I have two magnets I have never found. One is up in the attic because I found the hole where it went through the ceiling, but the other one is still MIA. I know Matt has a similar story!! I finally figured out a solution to THAT problem too, which allows me to use all the rotors that I have already had made. Since I found the RIGHT design for the machine, I have been trying to simplify it so that it is less expensive for OTHERS to replicate, and have built four different versions of THAT to incorporate the things I have learned about reducing the magnetic drag.

Still have the sign of my muller type motor magnets on the ceiling and walls… like a machine gun ALLWAYS stay clear of the magnet path!

I have tried a setup with six magnets on the rotor and five coils on each side, as you talked about, but the magnetic drag was still too great. Every one of these machines was a significant financial investment.

At the present time I am really working on TWO machines. One machine that is 6/12 (six magnets and 12 coils) on which I am experimenting with a new rotor with smaller magnets to see how that effects output as well as drag. And a second machine that is 6/10 which will incorporate my solution to reduce magnetic drag for the first time on THAT model, and will ALSO have smaller magnets. That machine is being built from scratch. It just takes time. Since each machine costs me about $1,500 to build, and I haven't been to a casino lately, it is taking time to accumulate all the parts. I want to compare inputs vs outputs on the two machines as well as look at the amp draw of the motor. I may have to settle for less output just for the peace of mind of knowing my motor is operating in a zone where it will last it's predicted lifetime.

Just to make myself clear. I do not envision this as a generator to power a house. I envision it as part of a system where the house runs off the three battery system and the generator is used to keep the primaries charged up so you always have a potential difference. But it MIGHT be able to be configured to put out the volts and amps necessary to run the electric motor in an electric car, which is the one project I REALLY want to work on.

I'm going to be testing all this next week with just the two coils I have now. One of the things I am VERY anxious to see is IF a DC electric motor will run on the rectified output and exactly what the DC output will be in volts and amps. Is it enough to loop the system? And running the D.C. motor, will it still speed up under load? I don't think it will run on only the output of two coils, but it MIGHT run with the output of four. That would still leave 8 to produce power on the 6/12 machine or six on the 6/10 machine.

I would rectify the output plus big smoothing cap, then to an efficient boost converter where you can set a fixed output, else your output/motor input may jump all over the place before stabilising and maybe even burn the motor. Even better, add battery to the motor, so you can start up the system. When up to speed the converter fed by the coils runs the motor and keeps the battery topped up.

I will not release anything more than I have on these machines until I have them working like I want them, can PROVE inputs and outputs with meters hard wired into the system, and know the design is as stable as I can get it. I don't want people spending $1,500 on a piece of junk that falls apart and doesn't give the output I claim it does. And THEN I am going to show a black box version of the machine to PROVE it works. And if we have enough people who want to replicate, take them through the replication process one component piece at a time. So I KNOW they built it EXACTLY right. I don't want people building half assed machines and then saying what I show doesn't work. I have had enough of THAT with the 3 battery system over the last ten years. I have been putting together a parts list for the machine, and sources for the parts. The BIG expense will be SIX of these... [url=http://www.ebay.com/itm/CMS-Magnetics-23-Gauge-ESSEX-Enameled-Copper-Magnet-Wire-6894-Ft-11-lb/321081940977?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid =p2057872.m2749.l2649]CMS Magnetics® 23 Gauge ESSEX Enameled Copper Magnet Wire 6894 Ft 11-lb

I applaud your efforts and persistence both in your work and the will to share with others

cheers,
Mario

[Turion]

Video

Open voltage on my previous coils was 257 volts at 2.4 amps. The current coil is only outputting about 62 volts at 5.5 amps.

Testing the current coil under load, it is only putting out about 32.6 volts at 5.4 amps. I still have a LOT of testing of coils to do to see what gives me the most output.

This is a YouTube video of the machine running. It is running on 36.6 volts at about 8 amps, but drops down to about 5 amps under load. On the in line panel meter that is hard to see, so at the end of the video I connect and disconnect the load a couple times so you can see the effect on the amp meter. The amp draw always goes DOWN under load.

I ran a 12 volt motor as the load, just to show that it WILL run motors and lights and still speed up under load, and the amp draw WILL go down.

EDIT:

When talking about the performance of the old coil, I shouldn't have included "open voltage" and "amps output" in the same sentence. Open voltage (257 volts) was measured with nothing connected to the coil except a volt meter. The amp reading was taken when the coil was connected to a load (light bulbs). The most amps I was able to get out of the coil under load was 2.4. I honesty do NOT remember the exact voltage, but I know it was upwards of 120 volts.

Same thing with the current coil. Open voltage with nothing connected but the volt meter was 62 volts. With a load connected ( the DC motor), the most I got was 32.6 volts across the motor at 5.5 amps.

Thanks to Bi for pointing these things out to me. He's trying to make sure that when I present information, I actually sound like I know what I'm talking about. He has a really loooong hill to climb.

My big machine that I show in this video has the principles applied to it that will reduce magnetic drag, but the new one I am building will reduce it even more, The coil tester I am running in the video does NOT have those principles applied to it. When the NEW machine is completed, I will try to loop the system just to show that it CAN be done. That should be in a week or so. I am supposed to get all my parts from the machinist tomorrow.

Running an electric motor off the generator output. - YouTube

[Turion]

Testing

Tomorrow I intend to begin some serious testing while running the generator off a power supply so that I can adjust the input volts and amps to the motor, and always keep it exactly the same for all tests.

I have 12 strands on the coil and SIX are connected to 6 in series. Leaving me 6 strands to work with.

I want to measure
1. Open voltage
2. Voltage across the load
3. Amps output to the load.

I am thinking about using a stock motor as a load, or I have 4 wire wound 1 ohm 100 watt resistors, and could use some combination of them. Any thoughts anyone?

I intend to put three of the remaining SIX wires in series with the other three, and also run the same tests with the coil connected that way. Then I will disconnect the last group of connections, and put three of the SIX in series and three more of the SIX in series, so I only have two output wires. Then I will put all SIX strands in series and see what I get. My goal is to collects much data as possible about coil performance.

If I'm not happy with the results, I will wind two more coils with 24 strands and maybe two others with 60 strands. All coils will have 2400 feet of wire.

EDIT: There is one thing worth mentioning here that I think ALL of you need to understand...Even if you use ALL the voltage and amperage the coils on the generator put out to supply the motor turning the generator (even the IMPROVED generator) with enough current and voltage to run the motor at exactly the RPM it is running at in the video, how many of you would say that the machine is WORTHLESS under those conditions? If that is your thinking, we are are at a fundamentally DIFFERENT place in our thinking. Because even if that were so, and it is NOT. But even if it were TRUE, I could still use the output of the generator as the High potential side in a 3 battery type setup, run the output of the generator THROUGH the motor without it being consumed, and charge a battery bank on the other side that I run an inverter off of to produce ADDITIONAL power. Oh, and in the REAL world I don't NEED the great big MY1020 razor scooter motor that runs on 36 volts and 8 amps. Not when you can speed up under load and eliminate the magnetic drag.You can use a version of the Zero Force motor that runs on all voltage and hardly ANY amps, which can be obtained easily from ONE COIL. I hope that makes sense to you, because if you don't think outside the box on this stuff, you are NEVER going to see the big picture.

Oh, and just for fun, here's a really OLD video on WHY I use the boost converter.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nD7a4bPS4o8

Dave

[BroMikey]

Here are some ideas I got from a leader in this research so I wrote
it down on paper before I forgot which wire to put where. This
helps to keep our focus on these project strategy.

Seems like I always revert back to the old way of burning out the power.

[moflint]

Can it be done with capacitors?

Hi All,

Here is my idea for a capacitor shuttle circuit, Split Positive style, for running a pulsed dc motor at about 14v, 2 amps around 3 cap banks. A large house battery to be charged from the pulses/switch events of the motor coils.

I have read nearly half of this thread only, so my apologies if this has been covered already in posts I have yet to read.

All capacitors are 2.7v 400F, which is 8,748 joules, or about 30 watts for 5 mins.

Bank 1, 6 caps in series = 16.2v, fully charged
Bank 2, 6 caps in parallel = 2.7v, fully discharged
Bank 3 (not really used as a bank), 6 caps fully charged ready to be switched in Bank 1 individually

Running motor between Banks 1 and 2, the operation is as follows:

1) Bank 1 discharges to 13.5v into Bank 2. (Motor running between positives)
2) Swap in 1 cap from Bank 3 into Bank 1 (Bank 1 is now back to original 16.2v)

Repeat 5 more times until all caps from "Bank 3" are used. Now Bank 2 is fully charged at 2.7v. Bank 1 is back at 16.2v and "Bank 3" caps are all discharged. Now the cycle starts again by swapping Bank 3 and Bank 2.

Please go easy on me as I have no working knowledge of capacitors, but that doesn't prevent me from asking stupid questions, lol. But I would like to know why this would not work before I go an purchase a bunch of them.

Thank you,
Mark

[BroMikey]

Please go easy on me as I have no working knowledge of capacitors,
but that doesn't prevent me from asking stupid questions, lol.

You may not have looked at all of the information. I asked this question
and many others asked that question. Each time the answer coming
from those who are trail blazers told us that they tried it and that
it poses impedance changes that stops the current process.

My reason at the time for asking was that I was going to get to the
bottom of this free energy mumbo jumbo fast and count joules easy,
not like a battery that can squirrel away lots of joules as the battery
will grow surface area of plate material.

Most people have batteries and the batteries are needed to run loads
for the 1000th time. Don't burden yourselves down by adding an
additional experiment before you finish the one set before you.

After you see the obvious excess that you normally would never see
from these instructions, maybe you could start a new thread on how
you don't need to use batteries? I don't know but the guys here directing
this thread have scolded me because I keep asking so now you know.

I have to agree that we must stick to protocol to get it working, of which
I have yet to complete my model. I have 12 spools loaded as of yesterday
and will soon have my first 24 strand coil on "C" core.

John Bedini always use to say that

"GET IT WORKING FIRST THEN CHANGE IT"

PS: If I have answered out of turn this message can be deleted by me
so let me know since I do not want this thread to be locked out.

[moflint]

[SIZE="3"][I][FONT="Century Gothic"]
it poses impedance changes that stops the current process.

Ah right, that's a shame.

It seems to work with simple resistive load - in the sense that you can join the negatives of two caps and run a lamp between the positives and no voltage is lost in the transfer while running the lamp.

I am currently running an 8-coiler dualpole motor but with small batteries. I'm getting nice results but there is just a bit too much resistance in these batts to balance it all out. I have ZERO doubt of a result with new bigger batts and am ready to do that. I would prefer smaller footprint of caps though!

[Turion]

Capacitors

Think about the following TRUE statement and you will have your answer as to why you CANNOT use caps in the 3 battery system and get the same results.

"When capacitors are connected in series, the total capacitance is less than any ONE of the series capacitors' individual capacitances. ... If two or more capacitors are connected in parallel, the overall effect is that of a single equivalent capacitor having the sum total of the plate areas of the individual capacitors."

In other words, capacitors in parallel act like batteries in parallel, but capacitors in series do NOT act like batteries in series.

[moflint]

Batteries

Hi Turion,

I think I read one of these post you said you saw an improvement in charging when you changed up to 6v golf cart batts, and then again to larger 12v US Battery batts. Where your 6v batts Trojans?

I'm looking to choose between the 6v 225ah Trojan T-105s and the US Battery Monobloc 12V 220Ah - pros and cons for each.

Do you think putting 2 x 6v batts in series is less efficient than just pulsing 1 x 12v batt of the same AH capacities - or is the arrangement irrelevant and it's just down to sheer capacity?

Anyone else got opinions on how spikes are absorbed in parallel or series arrangements?

Thanks,
Mark