Basic Free Energy Device

[Cadman]

Turion,

I think this is finally making sense to me, but please correct me if I'm wrong.

Attaching the motor load between the 24 volt batteries (#1 + #2 in series) and 12 volt battery #3 there is a potential difference of 12 volts +/- for the motor. The current exiting the 12V motor is deposited into the 12 volt battery #3 instead of being wasted to ground, and this means the only loss incurred is in the resistance and inductance of the motor along with any minor circuit losses.

The coils in the brushed DC motor are basically just inductors, so subject to their L/R time constant. By pulsing the motor at the proper intervals the motor coils can pass on their current more efficiently to the charging battery #3. In the interval between pulses the motor becomes a generator to battery 3 and can replace, if not exceed, the resistance and inductance losses of the motor as long as the load on the motor is not excessive. By rotating the battery positions the charge is maintained in all 3 batteries.

Additionally, the load on the motor could be a small generator and thus we get COP >1 along with a self running generator.

Is this the correct idea of the device?

Regards

[altrez]

When you get the knack of balancing the load with the load on battery 3, you will discover that you can double the load, balance it, and you will have NO MORE energy drain on the primaries than you did with the smaller load....and then double that and do the same thing.

You will drain the primaries until you have that balance, and then they will stabilize and go down very little. But DON'T forget what Matt said. You can have a load that is too big for your small batteries, and then nothing works right.

Dave

Playing around with the loads is very knacky on the connection between 1-2 and 3. I can adjust it with the PWM and get it to appear that it is not drawing anything from 1 and 2. However when I do that charging is extremely slow on battery 3.

I have not put a load on battery 3 yet I will do that this evening.

Thanks for the help!



-Altrez

[Turion]

Cadman,

You got it. At the basic level.

The bigger the motor, the more it will act as a generator. Larger batteries and MORE OF THEM don't react as quickly to the loss and tend to hold their charge better. Add a lenz free or low drag generator (Mine speeds up under resistive loads) and now you really have something.

You can do this with an off the shelf motor, but a motor BUILT as a pulse motor works better because you have a longer off (generator) cycle. You need higher voltage though, to get enough torque to run your generator, so once again MORE and BIGGER batteries are necessary. I have run Matt's pulse motor design on 72 volts, and I believe Matt has run it on more than that, but don't quote me.

Add a flywheel to keep the torque going between pulses, and now you have what we are looking for.

But like I said...more research needs to be done.

What is the BEST motor to use for this?
What is the BEST core material for the coils?
What size wire, length of wire, number of strands, bifilar, trifler, litzed, etc. gives the best generator output, and what is best size and shape of magnet?

What I was hoping for here was that a bunch of folks would take a simple razor scooter motor (why, because we KNOW that one can be rewound as a pulse motor once you see that it works with an unmodified one) a flywheel and some batteries, and start experimenting with this thing.

It is NOT the 3BGS, because we NEED to rotate the batteries to keep the charge up, but any losses, (and if you have any, they should be small) can be topped off by the generator.

What we need are some GOOD experimenters who can look at this and help to design the circuits to rotate the batteries, collect the output from the generator, dump to the battery that needs the charge. Ideally, you would have one set of batteries running the setup, one set resting, and one set being charged back to full by the generator.

This is NOT rocket science. It is very simple. Just build it and you will see. You don't need videos of mine running or Matt's running...you need to put one on your bench and see the results for yourself. Don't take ANYBODY's word that it works.

Maybe an off the shelf motor connected to an off the shelf generator IS the BEST way to go. Simply pulse it, and a flywheel, and run it in the 3 Battery configuration.

And Matt is right, I keep flipping back and forth in my head between the 3BGS and this setup. With this setup, you do NOT want a load on battery 3. Sorry about that.

Dave

[altrez]

Hello Everyone,

I went ultra simple with my build last night after I fried my data logger and SS Bedini charger "To much Vodka and hooked it up backwards".So what I did next was hook up a six volt battery directly to the PWM and adjusted it at the lowest setting I could to charge the 6 volt battery.

The starting voltage was 25.1 one the Switch and under 6 on the 6v battery. I charged the small battery up to 6.30 volts and then swapped it with a second 6 volt battery that I charged to 6.30 volts. The six volt batteries are new but I discharge them a few times over the last few days, they were flat when I started my tests.

After 3 hours and two runs I let the system rest for 45 minutes to allow the batteries to even out. My starting voltage was down to 24.3 volts. At this point I hooked up the 6 volt batteries in series to get 12.30 volts. Hooked up my inverter and plugged in a speed charger on 1 amp to charge battery one. I let it charge for 15 minutes and then after 30 minutes of rest I hooked battery 1 and 2 back up in series. Success!!! I was at 25.2 volts!

I still had enough power to run a 35 watt CFL for around 5 minutes afterwards. Thinking about this this morning all I can go on is facts.

1. I started with 25.1 volts ended with 25.2 after a 3 hour run time.
2. I charged two 6 volt batteries in the load position 1 at a time.
3. Using the the 6 volt batteries in series I had a net gain of energy.

In my mind this clearly shows a COP > 1. I am going to replicate the experiment tonight to make sure I wasn't having Gray Goose induced hallucinations Oh and Battery 3 was charged as well at the end.







-Altrez

[Turion]

altrez is seeing what can be done with small motors and small batteries and a reasonable load.

Now think about using a larger motor that is wound as a pulse motor and 50% OF THE TIME IT IS ACTING AS A GENERATOR, connected in the same way turning a flywheel to keep the revolutions more consistent during pulses, and running a lenz free generator like this one:
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...lfrunning.html

If you just BREAK EVEN because 1. You're switching the batteries around and 2. The motor runs as a generator 50% of the time, that means ALL THE POWER produced by your Lenz Free generator is FREE power. All of it. Every drop.

Dave

[altrez]

I went home at lunch and ran a few more tests. I was able to run the inverter again for 5 minutes charging battery 1 even more! I also think the issue with my voltage logger was the battery, it seems to be working now.

So tonight I will run the same test and see if I get the same results. If so then well I don't really know lol. Its a very basic version of the Tesla Switch. here is the off the shelf parts list I am using.

1. Three 14volt 5.8ah batteries
2. Two 6v 4.5ah batteries
3. A 75watt inverter
4. A 12 volt charger
5. Some hookup wire
6. A PWM

I just keep thinking I am missing something as there is no way its this simple.



-Altrez

[voltan]

hi all.has anyone seen john bedini's short vid of the zero force motor.it's pretty new so not much info on it yet.it has a torroidal stator and neos in the rotor,reed switches controlling bedini cole semiconductor switching and revs hard.he mentions it was built by peter,dr lindemann i presume.it looks fairly easy to build once we understand the winding scheme and the timing.cheers

[gyula]

hi all.has anyone seen john bedini's short vid of the zero force motor.it's pretty new so not much info on it yet.it has a torroidal stator and neos in the rotor,reed switches controlling bedini cole semiconductor switching and revs hard.he mentions it was built by peter,dr lindemann i presume.it looks fairly easy to build once we understand the winding scheme and the timing.cheers

Hi Voltan,

There is another short video by John B. on the zero force motor, you can see it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kpDMMcNQxc where scope shots are also shown.
And there is a thread on it, started by an inquiring member at energyscienceforum.com but neither Peter L. nor John B commented it:
For Peter Lindemann and energenx "Zero Force Motor" where member Daniel and me tried to discuss the principle, Daniel started to do some tests and later he turned to the Paul Babcock motor, and I do not know more about his further tests if any. IT would be good to see John or Peter comments on the setup you refer to.

Gyula

[Turion]

When we have schematics for this motor, we can build it. Until then, use something that you already have. An off the shelf motor will work to get you started. You can pulse it by putting a small rotor on the shaft with some magnets on it and use a reed switch.

Get it working first, and THEN worry about what is the best motor and what is the best generator.

Dave

[altrez]

got it again!



Same batteries

-Altrez

[altrez]

What do you guys make of this scope shot from my Tesla switch?






-Altrez

[altrez]

Whats the setup from the shot?

Matt

Negative of Battery 3. Positive of PWM out to 6 volt battery.

-Altrez

[wayne.ct]

Identical trace on both channels

Without knowing what you are displaying it is not going to be meaningful to say what it is. Anyone's guess could be different. Putting the same signal into to two channels on the scope and adjusting the Y-offset could produce this.

[altrez]

Without knowing what you are displaying it is not going to be meaningful to say what it is. Anyone's guess could be different. Putting the same signal into to two channels on the scope and adjusting the Y-offset could produce this.

Hello,

I have it hooked to the negative of battery 3 and the positive from the PWM.

-Altrez

[voltan]

hi all.just a thought.i used to get modified computer fans to run well with all 4 coils being driven,by putting a mini isolation transformer across the coils,thereby synchronously switching a transistor.the iso trafo is listed as 3k/3k ct. i would assume medium to high reactance in this component helps to maximize spike energy recovery and overall motor efficiency.
during initial setup there was always a bit of fiddling, trying different connections,sometimes swapping them.to help identify the right setup i added a bright white led in series with some resistance,depending on input voltage, wired in parallel to the driven coils for a timing light.aiming this at a dot or line on the fan hub i could see when the power was on while the fan was running. i could then adjust the timing a bit with a diode here and a cap there to the stage where the timing was pretty close to using 2 coils for sensing only.
i was thinking this might be easier than optical triggering and more reliable than reed switches,if it can be made to work with different types of home built motors,ie. short pulses as different from being on for about 90 degrees of rotation.
c1 absorbs the spikes,for t1's protection,in the absence of a spike recovery scheme.d1 and c2 tailor the trafo signal to make for half decent timing.with a bit of trial and error it could be the basis for a good timing system for different applications.
incidentally that zero force motor looks to me like a computer fan motor,but inside out.i'm guessing it too has the 4 poles in the rotor arranged n-s-n-s,but with 2 coils instead of 4 in the stator,which probably flip polarity every 90 degrees and basically stay on.after watching the other vid gyula added, its apparent the stator coils and their magnetic fields are at right angles to normal,thereby achieving near lenzless operation by the sound of it.much to learn about.
repulsion type pulse motors send the pulse at the point of zero crossing(when the stator and rotor poles are in alignment).
i can move the switch on point around that area on the fan so hopefully this is helpful.cheers