Basic Free Energy Device

[wantomake]

Not sure any more?

After reading carefully page #1 of this thread, I should just go back on the side lines and be the hobbyist that I am.

Not being negative or anything, just a better follower. Sorry and this doesn't need a reply.

From the sidelines,
wantomake

[Sawt2]

Matt
Thank you for all your work and willingness to share.

SO alot of you wanna get going with the motor...

Take the motor apart. 4 screws. Make sure when you pull the caps you catch all the parts. The brush's have springs and sometimes you have a spring washer in the front case.

Get the rotor out.

To strip the rotor I use a hand grinder with cut wheel and cut the copper off the of one end. But a hack saw works too. Then you take a big screw driver and pry out the windings from the other end.
Then you gotta clean the slots out on the rotor. I do that with a screw driver and a little wire brush thing I have but anything will work.

Once its cleaned up at each end you wanna use a piece sand paper to kind soften all the edges in the slots. This makes a difference.

Here is a playlist of videos to follow and to help you understand what to look for and how to do it.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...7WsknDG4439vV3

Watch the videos first.

The winding pattern is easy. Here is an Image:



2 wire is 3 strands of 24 awg or .54mm. You do not need high temp wire.

So once few of you are underway, I'll start a new thread.

Have confidence in yourself, I do not need to shop for you, I do not need to teach you how to use a screwdriver. I do not have children so I never learned to hold anyones hand. I am hermit farmer who hates social interaction.

You can do it.

Matt

[tachyoncatcher]

Look I don't spend much time promoting business's, but I buy wire at BAE wire Ebay . If they don't have the wire I need on ebay I call the regular business number BAE wire contact.

Wow! That is some good pricing on wire. Thanks for the tip.

Randy

[jettis]

Energy Amplification... Revealed!

Well just stick with it. It will take a little for it all to come out, likely it will take time for others to catch up. Just do what you can to fill in the blanks for the people are behind or just getting started and that will keep things moving forward.

Matt

Thanks for posting your work Matt.

Just wanted to add some of my own findings as well...

I have proven this concept on the bench and it in fact does work, if you want energy amplification that is.
Thomas Bearden has stated or hinted at the fact the modern electrical community has failed to realize or suppressed the knowledge that energy can be used more than once in a system, as it can neither be created or destroyed, we are free to use multiple pass techniques if we can find such a way to do it efficiently.

-Dave Wing

[altrez]

Pretty cool stuff. I hope to be done with my Tesla Switch by the end of the winter hopefully by then I can focus on the motor lol.



-Altrez

[tachyoncatcher]

Careful

Guys,
Stick close to Matt with this motor. This is an EXCELLENT design for where Matt is going to take you. However, without a PWM to control duty cycle, you WILL EXCEED designed rpm by a factor of almost 3 and kill a small 8Ah battery in minutes. For you go-getters, be patient and wait for Matt's controller or run it with your own. I know very well what not to do with a motor like this. I should of taken pictures.
From the peanut gallery,
Randy

[jettis]

Did you know you can do it without stacking batteries?

Matt

That I have yet to do... But I have sure been thinking about it an awful lot!

I have done some experiments with the SG and cascading the SG circuits over a year ago. One should be able to use capacitors instead of stacking the batteries...


-Dave Wing

[Cadman]

Thanks Matt, very helpful videos.

Can you tell us what the resistance range should be for 100 turns?

Thanks

[jettis]

Its simple to look at. You start with the battery, then a diode on the hot rail going to a capacitor. If its good diode the cap voltage is .3 below battery.

The cap is then the power supply for a simple boost maybe 36 volt 2 amp which means 12 volt 6 amp (72 watts). That power is run through a 24 volt load, instead of being dumped its cycled back to the 12 volt in the cap for 24 volt potential or maybe the battery.
So now its a 72 watt load and you just caught 3/4 of it and got it in the front end. You did 48 watt worth of work and it cost you 18 watts.
And in a good circuit %25 loss it horrible. LOL

The trick being avoid heat and resistance. Low impedance, fast switching ect..

So if thats a motor and your consuming 18 watt and the motor is turning out 40 watts (After bemf) worth of work you can generate 30 watts easy with simple lenz free type gen and maybe even get little work done in the form heat or light.

Who knows , we'll see though. I can tell ya though from testing that motor does a little bit more work than would normally expect. Stable Inrush currents are neat things to use.

Matt

After considering what you were saying about stacking batteries... I tried two separate capacitor banks sandwiched between a 36 volt supply and 12 volts on the tail end as per my diagram I posted earlier and also ran 4 electric motors, one off each section. It worked the same way as if the batteries were still there...I still had the voltage differential across each section while still running each motor.

I was still able to power one motor and run 3 others down the line for free all I had to pay for was the cost of running the first one. Torque is also increased at least 3 times over as I have them all coupled together. I have some cheap DC to DC converters coming from China to reguage the system. So I will not have to charge the batteries again and the machine will run until something wears out.

So to make a long story short the capacitors work in place of stacking the batteries.

Thanks for sharing Matt.... In my opinion... and refering to myself I believe it is better to share even if it falls upon deaf ears or those who think they know it all.

-Dave Wing

[tachyoncatcher]

This is why I have hesitated to put anything up, people's stories. You haven't even built the damn thing yet and your already telling everyone what its going to do.
The motor will run just as long as stock scooter at a given voltage. It draws 2 amp +- .10 out of the gate. It has 2 times the RPM of a stock motor. The only thing that heats up in it so far is the bearings.
You can run it straight from a battery, with no problems. Its just a 2 amp load.

Now for the rest of you Randy will tell you a lot of stories so if you choose to pay attention to him YOU LOSE. I can go on but I won't, I hope most of you will ignore his fabrications.

Matt

Sorry you took offense. Non was meant. I did build a motor similar to this over a year ago for the 3BGS. My "stories" are my results, not yours. My windings could have been tighter and at 8000+ rpm, some slipped out of the rotor. Dave welcomed me to this thread. I see it's not mutual, I will hush up now.
Good Luck All,
Randy

[voltan]

hi jettis.i'm keen to see a diagram of that too.happy to tidy it up a bit with your consent if helpful.
cheers

[Turion]

Pieces of the Puzzle

SO are the pieces beginning to fit together?

I drove up north today (7 hour round trip) to pick up that McCulloch generator Chris was kind enough to pick up for me at a swap meet, and got to see the setup he is working on. It was incredibly kind of him to do that for me, and to share the hard work, time, and money he has put in on his build.

What I saw was this:
An alternator run off of batteries to drive (Direct drive...with shafts hooked together) another alternator as a generator. Once this was running at speed, Chris connected a 3rd alternator running as a motor as his load on the generator.
Then he added a load on the (load) motor by putting pressure on the shaft of the motor as it was spinning, and just as you'd expect, the generator and the motor running it began to bog down.

Then Chris made some adjustments and the motor increased in speed. He told me to watch the volt meter that was attached (I hope this is correct) to the output of the generator. (input of the 3rd alternator running as load motor) It climbed steadily as everything sought its own balance. Suddenly the needle on the volt meter began to flicker back and forth just a tiny bit. Chris told me to watch carefully because there would be a reaction when the thing reached resonance. Suddenly the needle jumped all the way to the right, and then settled back where it had been, rock steady in its position, reading the voltage output. Chris told me that the device was now in resonance. Pressure was put on the shaft of the third alternator....so much pressure in fact, that it came to a halt. At no time did this application of pressure on the third alternator (run as a load motor) affect the performance of the primary motor or the generator ONCE THE MACHINE WAS IN RESONANCE. Chris, if I got any parts of this incorrect, please feel free to smack me around a bit. I deserve it. As Matt has noted, sometimes I get excited. LOL

This is WHY we are building both a MOTOR and a GENERATOR. I think you may already understand why we need the 3 Battery system or THE BEST VARIATION of it we can come up with. Chris posted a video of his setup in post #54 here on THIS THREAD, and he has lots more videos of more recent runs. It is going to take all of us to put all the best little pieces together to get the best machine we can come up with. It will work without every part being perfect or "the best" but imagine what it will do when every piece is giving us the most bang for our buck?

Dave

[Tishatang]

Hey Dave,
It's OK to get excited. It means you have passion for these kinds of things.

Your description of my setup may cause confusion? So, I will try to explain my goal for this setup. I am working on the theory that the best way to harvest reactive power in a resonant or semi resonant circuit is with a free wheeling third motor or alternator. The first alternator is the prime mover turning the second alternator as a generator. I am using car alternators because they are cheap, robust and are 3 phase. The 3 phases are necessary to drive the third unit which can be a 3 phase motor or alternator by just connecting the 3 phase wires.

The third unit is what collects the reactive power or VARS. Since the source of the frequencies and energy is a spinning armature in a magnetic field, what better way to harvest the energy than a free wheeling passive armature? All the reactive power the generator puts out with its phase shifts and volts high and current low or volts low and current high but out of phase is collected by the free wheeling armature as it sums all these different energies as torque to the shaft.

Any load of the third unit, even a dead stall, does not reflect back as a load to the prime move or battery source. Dave saw me driving a 110v three phase motor to 3,000 rpm with less than 20v as it entered semi resonance. Then it takes off and goes off scale on my 50v meter. I then stalled it with no reflection back to source. As long as you are in a reactive mode with lots of inductors and capacitors there is no load back to source. No need to be in resonance. But resonance gives the energy amplification that Dave witnessed.

Chris

[Turion]

Corrected

Thanks Chris,
I knew you'd show up here and bail me out. LOL Just one question...was I correct about where the volt meter was attached? Was it measuring the generator output to the third alternator?

Dave

[Tishatang]

Yes, it was measuring the voltage of one phase going to the third unit. Remember this is just one of three. The 3 phases coming out form a rotating magnetic field. This is the driving force giving rotation of the passive third unit.
You can change direction of rotation by changing any two wires. Also any 3 phase unit will drive another 3 phase unit by just connecting the 3 wires between them. But, I am introducing caps and/or inductors between them to create reactive power.

It is difficult to tune to resonance because any change to one phase does affect the other two phases. I observe many different quirks that I don't fully understand re 3 phase systems. I am used to looking at a circuit and expecting a certain result, but then something really weird happens on another phase.