Basic Free Energy Device

[wantomake]

Total surprise

I did try the dc brushed motor on #3 and didn't get any where.

But wanted to try different arrangements of the battery set up. I placed #3 between #1 and#2 with the positive and negative matching on each side of #3 with #1 left and #2 on right. Sorry no schematic program.

Then connect stock my1016 to neg of #1 and neg of #3, leaving #2 out of the loop. Have stock coupled to mod my1016 as generator with fwbr that's connected to #2 in attempt to keep it charged.

For two hours this was the readings: 4:35 pm to 6:35 pm
#1 - start 10vdc ending 10vdc
#2 - start 8.40vdc ending 10.59vdc
#3 - start 1.4vdc ending .38vdc (alum converted battery)
stock motor - start 63.6°f ending 76.1°f
Mod gen - start 66.9°f ending 73.6°f
Rpm - start 850 ending 1143
Load on #3 pulling 1.7 amps (2x 50 watt 12v bulbs)
Stock motor pulling 1.75 amps
Load on fwbr from generator to #2 pulling 0.180 amps
Load on fwbr from generator to 12v car lamp pulling 1.02 amps

Load on fwbr was not at same time. Wanted to see how much generator output was at fwbr.

Sorry for such long post, but this was different and very encouraging,
wantomake

[Zardox]

I ordered my MY1016 and have had it sitting here since before Christmas. I finally got some time to work on it and once I had it torn apart I noticed that it was a 20 pole. I ordered the MY but they had sent me a ZY1016 350 Watt.
Any suggestions Matt? Can I make this work?

[Turion]

Zardox,
If it has four magnets on the rotor and four brushes, you should be able to make it work. The problem is that neither Matt nor I have built one of these, so we don't know what length of wire it will use. Instead of 3 "coils" on each side, you will have 4, and the spacing will be different so different length of wire. I will have to get one of these. More slots and more coils means it would probably make a better generator than the MY1016.Good to know.

I hope Matt agrees.

Dave

[Zardox]

Yes I was thinking of useing 7 poles to wind the coils keeping the same 3 poles in between not used but having 2 segments on the commutator not used instead of 1. However I am not sure because having a wider magnetic pole on the rotor could mess up the geometery.

[Zardox]

Sorry to be a little daft but three windings around 5 poles or 7?
My original thought was to make 4 windings.

[wantomake]

per post #465

Per post #465 I tried two different dmm on #3. Cause one showed #3 flipping the polarity, but the other (fluke) would not. With the first meter, when the reversal happened the motor gained rpms and charging battery #2 gained a little voltage.

Is this a usual problem with dmm' s? Of course with this system expect the strange and different.

wantomake

[shylo]

the wind

Hi Matt, Now you have me confused, You say" the hundred turns of three strands" Is it supposed to be a tri-filar winding?
To Zardox, I would wind the seven poles to keep the wider magnet covered or not so much wider magnet but more narrow pole faces.
artv

[Turion]

shylo,
Look at post #409
That's where Matt gave instructions for winding the motor and listed videos of how to do it.

Three strands of #24 approximately 75 feet in length (each strand) gives you 100 turns. I would go longer to be safe, but after Matt wound his he UNWOUND it and measured the length so we would have a rough idea.

Dave

[shylo]

So the three strands , are they with all 3 starts tied together and connected across the 3 comm sections, or one strand per com section=3? (same at the end)
Or is the end of #1 strand tied to the start of the 2nd strand ,the end of the 2nd tied to the start of the 3rd, so the start of the 1st strand spans 3 comm sections and the end of the 3rd strand spans 3 comm sections?
The original wind from the 3BGS thread was just a single strand right???
I don't know how I missed this.
Thanks for your time.
artv

[Turion]

Wiring

Take your three strands of wire and begin winding with all 3 strands together. All three sections will be wound at the same time with all three strands of wire. Matt stated the number of turns (with 3 strands) on each of the sections. I believe it was 40,30,30 but go to that post and it will tell you for sure. The three wires will be in parallel. Yes, this is different than the original razor scooter modification. For good reasons, as you will see.

Dave

[Turion]

Trigger

LOL Matt,
I hit send faster than you!

[voltan]

hi all. i been thinkin about trying a capacitive discharge circuit on the rc motor.i saw a variation of fig 1, i moved the components around a bit, in a vlad utkin pdf. the cap will charge up to and hold higher alternating potentials with every flip. it looks like a very efficient way to ac pulse a motor with a dual polarity supply,or a virtual one.apologies for speculating here, i know i should investigate it first,but i think this could go a bit feral on different types of brushless/pulsed motors.heavy ripple on that cap though.
ok. with 122uf bipolar electrolytic,(not ideal,higher esr) it runs the same with the run cap active or shorted.with 200 uf it was off a bit.caps across b-e on t1 t2 stabilized the switching. i'm after 1 pulse each way per ac cycle, 7 cycles / revolution.
8.4 dcr in the motor winding might be bad but having more turns,inductance might be good. also the bemf signal that the iso trafo's read shows a nearly identical light pattern with the timing lights,with the run cap active or shorted, about half a degree of advance.so i think that part is ok for now.maybe more voltage will stir it up a bit.18v ozito power so far. i can only muster about 20uf of film block type and motor run capacitors.maybe i can get it into the zone with 40 v or more with the good caps.
fundamentally it's a series lcr circuit that has it's coil in a motor. i think the bottom line is series lc is min impedance at resonance and the frequency varies in the motor according to v and load,so a fixed capacitance means high impedance over most of the rpm range,or all of it. this calls for a dynamic self adjusting on the fly variable capacitance.i guess varying motor conditions and rpm/frq both need to be accounted and suitable adjustments made.
i would appreciate any suggestions on how to accomplish this.
come to think of it if it had a parallel resonance the same as the series resonance that might flat line the impedance for varying freq,rpm. but then still too much impedance maybe.
cheers

[Zardox]

Just letting you all know where i'm at with the 20 pole. I settled on 6 poles with the center of each coil being 2 poles. It runs anyway, although I don't have anything to compare it to. I did a short run just to test it. At 28 volts running it was pulling right at about 1 amp unloaded.
I have not tried adjusting the timing. I have taken it back apart to tack down the windings and I am debateing wether to connect another commutator segment per coil. Because I only connected 3 segments at each end or the coils there is 2 segments unconnected between each one. My thinking was that the more off time would be a bonus but that means that unless the rotor is in the right position it won't self start. More to come.

[Zardox]

I don't have anyway way of measureing RPM. I know it was not going as fast as the stock wind.

[voltan]

i'm clinging on to a bit of driftwood.