apologies.was an attempt at humour.maybe got lost in translation.i'm broke arsed too.
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wire guage
Hi All, I wound up another 16 pole , 4magnet can ,it's not an myi6...
I didn't have enough 24awg, But I did have some heavier wire not sure of the awg I think it to be around 15-16awg so I only used a single strand.
It measures just under a mm with a tape, (not even sure that's accurate)
My question is , where should the coil be in relation to the magnets when the firing sequence starts?
I can rotate my brushes , so just find the spot where it runs fastest?
Thanks artv
p.s my boats' got a major leak, going down quick
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Originally posted by Turion View PostI should mention that the universal motor I had running on battery three was my shop vac, plugged into an inverter. And remember what I said about inverters. When the polarity flips you will probably let the smoke out of one if it is attached.
Dave
If the inverter was connected to the output of a full wave bridge rectifier - wouldn't that protect it against battery 3 voltage reversal? I know the diodes in the bridge would add a voltage drop - but Iike your idea of using the inverter to drive the larger loads.
Monty
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Inverter
Nikola-wan,
The bridge might protect, but I haven't tried it, so I don't know and not going to pretend I do. Don't like giving advice on something I haven't tried myself. Hate to see you smoke an inverter. I have a couple of those already and it can get expensive.
DaveLast edited by Turion; 01-17-2015, 06:22 PM.“Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
—Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist
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hi shylo. the commutation rectifies the output.your speed v amps account is a bit of a puzzle to me.maybe a couple of pics and a diagram could give some clues.maybe if you power it with a battery and a switch,just the 3,nothing else connected,it might respond to timing changes in a more predictable way. maybe powering it with the cap bank is creating variables in the rpm/ input current relationship. or maybe i should leave it to matt or dave to comment.
cheers
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commutator
Hi Voltan, I have spun many dc motors with many different types of supply.
They always put out an AC voltage, the only way that I have gotten DC was to run it through a diode bridge.
But Matts winding puts out straight DC, Maybe because of the pulsed input?
I don't know.
I have no clue how a commutator could produce DC ,it should show a positive value then a negative value, since the windings are seeing a north pole then a south.
There's alot I don't know ,maybe this is one of them.
Thanks artv
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Originally posted by shylo View PostHi Voltan, I have spun many dc motors with many different types of supply.
They always put out an AC voltage, the only way that I have gotten DC was to run it through a diode bridge.
But Matts winding puts out straight DC, Maybe because of the pulsed input?
I don't know.
I have no clue how a commutator could produce DC ,it should show a positive value then a negative value, since the windings are seeing a north pole then a south.
There's alot I don't know ,maybe this is one of them.
Thanks artv
-Atrez
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Originally posted by shylo View PostHi all, Just out of curiosity when you take Matts' motor and spin it with a drill why does it put out dc?
It should be an ac output without a bridge no?
The magnets in the case are nsns this should make ac not dc?
artv
-Altrez
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hi shylo. i think maybe the dc motors that you were getting ac output with were brushless like bedini,ssg.alternating pms on the rotor,no commutation on the stator coils.when there's brushes in a dc motor they commutate,switch the power to the winding/s on the rotor based on it's points of rotation, relative to the fixed pms in the housing.the same timing system that makes it a dc motor rectifies the ac on the winding/s when it's a generator. an image search of brushed dc motor commutation should clarify things.
cheers.
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Voltan & Alterz, You were both right ,I always assumed an Ac output so I never checked Dc . Sorry for that.
Matt ,I spun the new wound motor with 20 volts from a cordless drill battery, the new motor was coupled to the old wind motor , which served as a generator. It was putting out 30+ volts.
The only thing is the windings in the old motor are much finer and more of them, than the new.
The coupling is not very good , bad vibrations ,if I can get it to run smoother I will try charging a 2nd battery ,then swap them around.
I'll also try the 3Bgs.
The more this new motor runs the better it's getting(amp draw dropping had it down to 1.5), just breaking in the brushes.
None of my stuff is new just reused, so a little ruff.
Thanks for All your help.
artv
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After putting my motor back together I did a short run. It was pulling about 1.8 amps and even useing a peice of wood to try and slow it down I never seen it go above 1.9 amps. I was useing a couple of drill batteries and the voltage was dropping pretty quick. I still have no idea what the rpm was but it seems pretty good. I did not do any adjusting on the timeing.
I bookmarked that meter you suggested but I think I had better hold off for now as I am not sure what all I am going to need for the rest of the system. Is lead acid batteries a must have or are other types ok? And how big is nessesary?
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Well I got the vibration issue sorted out. The old wind is as per Matts original except I had modified it.
I wound it with the 2 coils consisting of one pole, then three, then five 180 deg. apart. I forget how many turns. (the original)
I then skipped a pole and wound it again,then skipped another pole and wound it again.....so every other pole has Matts winding on it, so every other comm section is producing output.
It puts out 50vdc when spun with the new wind ,which I used a single strand of I think is around 17-18 awg (just under 1mm) Sorry no 24awg 3 strands.
When I attach the old to charge a battery , the new drops in rpm and gets warm, but does charge the battery. Not as much as I use on input though.
Maybe this does'nt apply here ..I just like to try different things.
artv
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