Basic Free Energy Device

[Matthew Jones]

The fact is the schematic will not perform as expected. It may cause damage and fire and without experience this should have not been posted.

I informed Dave on the mix up and its dangers and he removed the post this morning. Anyone with any amount of experience would know this right out the gate but unfortunately that wasn't the case.

Sorry to cause confusion.

Matt

[Wistiti]

The fact is the schematic will not perform as expected. It may cause damage and fire and without experience this should have not been posted.

I informed Dave on the mix up and its dangers and he removed the post this morning. Anyone with any amount of experience would know this right out the gate but unfortunately that wasn't the case.

Sorry to cause confusion.

Matt

.........
ok...
thanks for the reply!

[Matthew Jones]

Thanks for understanding.

Matt

[Turion]

Build

Look at the YouTube videos of this guy:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJl0TO_aR6M
Use the pump motors shown by Gerard Morin for the U shaped coils. (8 coils)
Use a round rotor (10-12 inches) with N/S/N/S/N/S/ magnets all around it. (six neo magnets)
Mount the rotor on the shaft of a Matt Jones modified razor scooter motor.
Run it on high enough voltage that you are above 1800 rpm

For folks who are real builders, like Erfinder, running this thing with a razor scooter motor is a waste. Just put your rotor on some bearings and drive it like a Bedini machine with coils BETWEEN the pump motor coils. Use as many as you need.I was just trying to show the simplest test setup.

You can also use the 3BGS circuit with the razor scooter motor and recover about 80% of the energy used to run the motor.

Anyway, share your results

Or wait until after the first of the year when I release the video of my setup, which cost me thousands of dollars to build, mostly because I did it over and over and over, and could have been done SO much more easily if I knew then what I know now. There is MORE than one way to get the rotor to speed up under load, and I am using a different method. I am also using air core coils so I don't have to worry about magnetic lock of rotor to coil cores, but that caused its own problems....like no U shaped cores. So each method has its own problems. There are many ways to skin this cat, but this will be a fun one for folks who have some of this stuff lying around. Even if you only have a couple pump motors you will see some interesting results. Then let me know if this is a TOY or not.
Dave

[Wistiti]

Good idea Dave.
And for more efficiency the rotor may be powered by the Ossie motor near cop=1...
I will probably try your idea when i have the time.
Thank you for still sharing your idea!

[Turion]

Money (LOTS OF IT) Where my mouth is.

I have been yapping for quite a while now about my big generator project. I should have been finished with it today and posting video, but I am a wimp and it was too dang cold in my garage to work out there today. Hopefully in the next couple days.

Also the pump motor project as I outlined it above is all done, but I have wobble in my rotor for some reason and it keeps hitting the pump motor coils. I have a different rotor to try tomorrow, just in case it's the rotor. If not, I will have to figure it out. That slot in the pump motors is fairly small unless you have it machined wider and I hate to sped the money. So I may have to attach the motor to a shaft with a couple bearings, and mount the rotor on the shaft. That may take a couple days, since it requires a trip to Lowes for supplies. Matt was kind enough to mill me some spacers for my rotors that fit right on the razor scooter motor shafts, so if I change my setup those will not work. Anyway, probably a couple days from completion on this project also. At least. At least one other person is working on this right now also, so you will have data from two different builds to compare. Mine will have 8 generator coils and be run by additional motor coils or a motor. I believe his will have five generator coils and be run by a motor.

Also, I had another wild idea, and Matt is building the parts for it and will be sending it to me soon. I also have parts on order Then I will have some coils to wind before I show it, but I think you're gonna like it.

I get these ideas, and then I spend hours on the phone talking to Matt to figure out how they can be implemented and whether he thinks they might work or not. As if he wasn't busy enough with developing his OWN stuff, he finds time to wade through the junk I dump on him to see if there is anything worth keeping.

What I'm trying to say here is, I know you guys have been waiting and waiting and waiting for Matt and I to show you something that works, and is COP>1, and you aren't going to have to wait much longer.

Then the plan is for you all to help me make it better.
And better.
And better.

Dave

[Turion]

Run circuit

Take a look at the attached diagram of the 3BGS setup.
Put the negative of your volt meter on "A" and the positive of your meter on "B" and take a reading. Then move the positive of your meter to "C" and you will find that the reading is higher. Why? Now flip the two wires on the motor, because a motor will produce more power run one direction than the other and you need to know which direction to run it. This is one of the "little things" you need to know to get to where some us have gotten with this.

If more is coming OUT of the DC motor than going IN, why would we run DC motors any other way than between two positives?

The issue becomes that unless the output amount remains above 15 volts, you don't have enough voltage hitting the 3rd battery to charge it. This is where that little boost module comes in.

150W DC DC Boost Converter 10 32V to 12 35V Step Up Charger Power Module M2 | eBay

By adjusting it, we can raise the voltage that hits the third battery to better than 15 volts. The closer to 15 volts we have it, the more efficient the system is and the longer it will run. Don't hit it with 20 volts, just 15. It is adjustable. And remember, as the voltage on your primaries drops (and it will, eventually) once the voltage hitting battery 3 is lower than 15 volts you MUST switch out batteries. Which is WHY you have to have more than 3 batteries to make this system work. Four batteries is a minimum. One ALWAYS needs to be resting after charging. By the way, it is CORRECT that the OUT negative of the boost module isn't connected to anything.

I am NOT saying it will run off the primaries forever. What I am saying is it will run off them for a really, really LONG time, during which your motor, connected to the proper generator, has not only produced lots of power for you, but has also charged up another battery or two. More out than in? You betcha!! Put the pieces together. We have all of them

Dave

[jettis]

Excellent Work...

Dave and Matt,

Thanks for sharing the information... It is very nice you went this route! I have not seen it done this way before...

I like how the boost controller negative will charge the low side secondary side while powering the motor which also charges the low side secondary batteries. At least that is what I think will happen anyway...

I have done similar things using three, four and five batteries with the SG in the place of the DC motor with no boost controller ... As a side note John K. also was doing this as well if I remember correctly on energy science forum.

One may need to add your boost controller configuration to the SG and see how it will then fuction... I think you may have already done this in your DC scooter pulse motor build.

Thanks again for sharing...

Dave Wing

[Matthew Jones]

Dave and Matt,

Thanks for sharing the information... It is very nice you went this route! I have not seen it done this way before...

I like how the boost controller negative will charge the low side secondary side while powering the motor which also charges the low side secondary batteries. At least that is what I think will happen anyway...

I have done similar things using three, four and five batteries with the SG in the place of the DC motor with no boost controller ... As a side note John K. also was doing this as well if I remember correctly on energy science forum.

One may need to add your boost controller configuration to the SG and see how it will then fuction... I think you may have already done this in your DC scooter pulse motor build.

Thanks again for sharing...

Dave Wing

All the power left over from the boost module and the motor (Remember heat is lost) ends up in the lower batteries.

This is the very premise of the Benitez patents. For all nonsense I have heard about them all the man was trying to do was regulate the output from the potential difference. The patents use language that is unlike what we would use today so its sound mysterious but they did not have unified language to describe things.
With good batteries and a far better circuit for boosting more power this system would only require a very small supplement of power to keep running.
If you used an isolated boost circuit instead this system would be generating power that could be put back after doing work.

Lots of possibilities.

Matt

[Turion]

Results???

I finally got my rotor pretty much in balance and two coils mounted. It is putting out 180 volts off the two coils in series unloaded. NO idea of the amps yet, as I am still working bugs out.

It is running on 24 volts at 1.8 amps. or 43 watts.

It is NOT, NOT, NOT speeding up under load. However, another researcher I have been in communication with has one running and it DOES speed up under load. The differences?? He has a smaller rotor and smaller neos. He is running at 4000 rpm and I am running at 2400. Bigger magnets = greater output than he is getting (up to a point) but increased "magnetic lock" which sloooooows the machine down.

So let's look at that for a minute. When I was running my big generator it would not speed up under load until I had it up to over 1800 rpm.

With a higher rpm= frequency his will speed up under load. Perhaps there is a relationship here that if you have the CORRECT rpm for your coil, it will speed up under load. Will pull one coil off tomorrow to reduce magnetic drag and see if I can get the rpm up enough to speed up under load.

Dave

For Carroll - YouTube

[blackchisel97]

I finally got my rotor pretty much in balance and two coils mounted. It is putting out 180 volts off the two coils in series unloaded. NO idea of the amps yet, as I am still working bugs out.

It is running on 24 volts at 1.8 amps. or 43 watts.

It is NOT, NOT, NOT speeding up under load. However, another researcher I have been in communication with has one running and it DOES speed up under load. The differences?? He has a smaller rotor and smaller neos. He is running at 4000 rpm and I am running at 2400. Bigger magnets = greater output than he is getting (up to a point) but increased "magnetic lock" which sloooooows the machine down.

So let's look at that for a minute. When I was running my big generator it would not speed up under load until I had it up to over 1800 rpm.

With a higher rpm= frequency his will speed up under load. Perhaps there is a relationship here that if you have the CORRECT rpm for your coil, it will speed up under load. Will pull one coil off tomorrow to reduce magnetic drag and see if I can get the rpm up enough to speed up under load.

Dave

For Carroll - YouTube

Dave, maybe the neos are too big for the cores?
I assembled simple 3 batt circuit last night with boost converter set at 15V. Mine has constant current option but I'm not using it here. I'll look around for parts to build a generator. My scooter motor is small, not the one you recommended. I have another 30V DC motor which I used first when you started this thread but need to find it.

Thanks to you and Matt for continuous sharing and persistence.

V

[Turion]

Size matters?

The neos may very well be too big, but until I get my 3d printer put together or can get to Lowes for more plastic, the are all I have to play with. I want to get to 4000 rpm and THEN decide they are too big. I'll get there.

Something I should throw out here. I have built and rebuilt my generator, and have always run it with the razor scooter motor. My FIRST edition of the generator was not the same as the last. It would speed up under load without the U shaped coils if over 1800 rpm. That was with a six wire coil. When I built my current gen, I cut the number of wires in half and doubled the length. We were engineering for a specific voltage output. And at 1800 rpm THIS coil shorted would produce speed up also. I did a bunch of little experiments a while back with different sizes of coils, different lengths and numbers of wire all run next to a rotor. Some would speed up when shorted. Some would NOT. I don't make this **** up, I spend time winding coils. And I HATE it. For that alone I should get paid! The rest of it I'd do for free cuz it's fun. Put a rotor on a motor and a magnet on the rotor and start winding coils. You will learn what can and cannot be done.
Dave

[Turion]

The idea of the boost converter is far from new. It is just a way to control the voltage that gets to the third battery while still running the motor off the potential difference.

Now imagine how much BETTER the battery would charge if you did not have that "smoothing" cap on the converter to keep the spikes from hitting the battery.

Imagine what would happen if you used one of the 97% efficient boost converters instead of this little 30% efficient converter

Imagine what would happen if you isolated the boost circuit so the power used could be put back into the system after doing work.

We said BASIC Free Energy Device and will try and show the BASICS that will work to get COP>1.

I said in my last post to build your own rotor with a magnet on it and start winding coils to test what can be done. Now here's the BASIC circuit, and where you take it from here will be up to you. If you take all these things and put them together you can get to COP>1. How much greater will depend on the research and time you put in.

I came up with a pretty radical motor design and have been researching it to see if anyone has done something similar. So far I haven't been able to find anything, which is good. I showed it to Matt, and of course he immediately improved it. He has been cutting parts for it on his CNC and will be sending it to me for assembly and testing. If it works, I'm sure we will be sharing it here at some stage or another. The little prototype is for proof of concept and where we go with it after that is anybody's guess. First we gotta make sure it is worth a crap. We don't want other folks spending money on our hair-brained ideas...unless of course they WORK!!!

Dave

[jettis]

All the power left over from the boost module and the motor (Remember heat is lost) ends up in the lower batteries.

This is the very premise of the Benitez patents. For all nonsense I have heard about them all the man was trying to do was regulate the output from the potential difference. The patents use language that is unlike what we would use today so its sound mysterious but they did not have unified language to describe things.
With good batteries and a far better circuit for boosting more power this system would only require a very small supplement of power to keep running.
If you used an isolated boost circuit instead this system would be generating power that could be put back after doing work.

Lots of possibilities.

Matt

I know heat is generated in these systems however I see no relation between heat loss and energy loss at least in my experiments anyway. If you use different loads (different resistances) very fat low resistance wire, electric motors, light bulbs, high 400ohm and low 10ohm resistors it makes no difference... They all put the same amount in the secondary lower voltage side... regardless of heat generation.

So where is the heat and magnetism coming from... that is the real question at least in my mind and is that really what one should consider to be the free energy at hand? What is this gravity wave John Bedini talks about? Does that have any association with this heat and magnetic energy?

Just thinking... out loud.


Dave Wing

[jettis]

Cascading System

Hi all,

Here is an image of of what I tried tonight, using these DC to DC Step up converters.

DC 400W 6 40V 12V 24V to 8V 80V 10A Boost Converter Step Up Module Power Supply | eBay

When looking at the image below... I see no reason why you cannot cascade it out further. It appears that all this costs you is the price to run the first motor, but really you get most of it back at the end (which is the six volt battery). The first and second motor have the available shaft energy, which is whatever the voltage is across them, that voltage is completely adjustable and of course the available shaft energy is free mechanical energy.

I would couple all the motors together via a coupling and even add more stages with motors if you need more shaft energy... one can easily see that self powering or massive excess is quite possible, barring any unforeseen issues. The way I see it you could easily use the excess shaft energy to power conventional generator.

By the way running the second motor has no negative impact upon the primary battery whatsoever and it charges the 6 volt battery like it should. All I can say is wow....

I have tried other things like caps and 12 volts to 12 volts with the schematic Turion and or Matt posted.


Here is the schematic I have described above...

Dave Wing