Basic Free Energy Device

[Turion]

Any BRUSHED DC motor will work. If you want it to REALLY contribute to the system, Matt's rewound motor is best. That's the best I can do without having the motor in front of me and putting a scope on it to see how that particular motor deals with the voltage put into it.

[soundiceuk]

I get what you mean about the motor being wound a certain way.

I saw the scope shot with the scalar wave vertically on the screen.

How much bhp can one of these motors output do you think?

What size is the shaft?

[Matthew Jones]

Hi Turion, send it to me and I will gladly host it on my dropbox account.

I've acquired 3 x 12v batteries - Big ones.

I've got a 12v/24v wind turbine alternator

So the magic happens in the motor right?

What magic is happening in the motor?


Of course I get that ultimately the motor turns the alternator.


Will this work with using 3 voltmeters and me manually moving wires just for experimentation purposes?

Best regards,

Paul

You need to read what I wrote:
http://www.energeticforum.com/289069-post946.html

Its not anyone component, it all the components working to deliver the right kind of charge.

Here is how to build the motor:

Part1
Part2
Part3
Part4
Part5
Part6

The boost circuit works better, but the motor gets you going if you want something simple and mechanical.
You may be able to afford a boost circuit that will run that 120 amp motor but its not likely to work on this circuit.

Here is a simple calculator for a boost circuit that can run from an Arduino, or any other micro controller.

I have only have 12 piece advice I always have to remind my self of, Don't do big to quick and don't expect miracles to early in your tests.
I explained to you what to find and the behavior you should be looking for. How you look is up to you, but don't expect it to happen on the first run.

Matt

[Aaron]

no more warning comes up

I have a problem with all links on this forum and the other Energetic forums also... the dreaded RED get me out of here screen.

I had Google remove the bogus message from the attack site list.

Clicking on the ebay link no longer gives the phony attack site message in Firefox at least from what I checked.

[Aaron]

flagged?

Aaron,
Why was I red flagged as "idle"?

wantomake

Hi, not sure what that means. If that is on the notice board on the homepage, that just means you're account is logged in but you haven't posted anything for a while - as far as I know.

[Aaron]

pdf

If you need the pdf of how to wind the motor, PM me with your email address and I will send it to you, or I could post it somewhere that everyone can get to if anybody has a suggestion.

If you email it to me, I'll upload it and provide a link and can drive massive traffic to it.

[Turion]

Razor Scooter motor

Let me say some things about the razor scooter motor.
First, they come with two DIFFERENT sized shafts, depending on the manufacturer, so giving you shaft dimensions is a 50/50 proposition.

The great thing about these motors is how versatile they are. I have probably twenty of them in various stages of rewinding or rewound in different configurations. The shaft is metric and has a LEFT HANDED thread. Nothing worse for a good ol' American boy than left handed metric. It just doesn't compute.

I have driven the shaft OUT of a few of these rotors and put longer shafts in them....in some cases shafts that go out BOTH ends of the case (by drilling a hole in the case) and this may be something you want to do if you are going to disassemble the motor ANYWAY. Then you can put in a threaded shaft of your choosing. I DO remember that A standard bolt from Lowes fit in SOME of my motors and all I had to do was put the bolt in the vise and put chisel marks on the bolt in a horizontal pattern for "splines" on the shaft so that when I drove it back into the rotor it would not spin. Of course I put epoxy on it also, but the splines did a better job than the epoxy I think.

This allowed me to use the threaded couplers to attach the motor to a standard threaded rod which I used as the shaft of my generator. All those parts were available at Lowes, so it made life easier for ME than dealing with metric.

This little motor, when rewound, is capable of about 4,000 rpm, but I would suggest replacing the bearings with some high performance bearings of the same size if you intend to run it at high speeds for a long time. Bearings burn up,,,especially CHEAP ones.

Dave

[soundiceuk]

Thanks guys, much appreciated!

As I haven't got a boost circuit or motor yet can I use three batteries, jumper wires and a 12 volt bulb to watch the voltages change.

Is this right?

Battery one is in series with battery two

Battery three is in parallel with battery one and two


The 24v tries to equalize with the 12v like two buckets of water trying to have the same in each bucket?

Battery three voltage rises to the point where it needs disconnecting 14.4v roughly?

Battery one or two has discharged more?

I'm much more of a practical guy so I'm keen to build something, but just trying to get my head around the theory.....

What is the original Benitez (spelling) patent please?

[Turion]

System

You can run anything you want that is 12 volt between the positives on the potential difference for as long as that potential difference lasts. It is THAT simple. The hard part is maintaining that potential difference.

But here is an example that hopefully everyone can understand. Suppose you run a light between the batteries off the potential difference for a certain amount of time, say five minutes. That voltage left the high side and traveled through the load and arrived at the low side with minimal losses. Now connect the light to the low side and you can run that light for almost an EQUAL amount of time and the battery will return to where it was before you started. Essentially you got to use that energy twice. If you could send it back to the batteries it came from in the first place you could use it twice without using it up at all. That is the plan


Motors, inverters and transformers (with proper switching) actually CONTRIBUTE to the efficiency of the system because they PULSE the voltage to the battery. The boost circuit insures that the pulse is at the right voltage.

Search for Carlos Benitez Patents

[Wistiti]

Archive it!...

Thank you Dave, Matt and other for sharing it again,again, again and again.....

Aaron may i suggest you are the best one who can save all this recent information (Video, schematic, pdf,post,etc.,,,) they have recently shared with us, in one post for everyone, old builder and newcomer, so all can refer easily to it if they want to try it..? This post could be update by the admin as far as the new progress come...

I know many here dont like pjkbook but it may also be a good way to archive it for the mass... think almost everyone here and out of here may know this document...

Thank you!

[Turion]

Understanding

Please hear this loud and clear....

This circuit is NOT the final solution. Matt's motor is NOT the final solution. Matt's motor run on this circuit is NOT the final solution. Adding the boost circuit is NOT the final solution.

You need the switching to rotate the batteries through the five different positions when battery 3 is charged up. You need five GOOD STRONG fully charged batteries that are not old and worn out. Each one will move through these five positions in this order.

1. Position One (as Battery one of the two in series)
2. Position two (as battery 2 of the two in series)
3. Resting Because it has been DISCHARGED in BOTH the previous positions)
4. Position three (in parallel with one and two, charging)
5. Resting

You need a generator run by the motor that can put out power so you can ADD a little power back into the system when it is needed. Nothing lasts forever, and cold and heat are the ENEMIES of batteries. Without a generator you have NOTHING here that is going to get you what you want.

But any decent generator is going to give you an over unity device if all these things are in place. It just IS.

Good luck. There are some folks on this forum who could put together a switching circuit to share with everyone else without half trying, if they will.

[Mario]

Hi Dave,

The connections are simple. There's one thing though I don't get in your video. Ho can the motor turn before you hook the boost converter neg. to the batt.3 positive? I mean the motor OUT is already hooked to the batt.3 pos, but the motor IN is hooked to the boost converter pos. out and the converter neg. isn't connected to anything yet.

This means the boost converter positive IN let's current flow through it its pos. OUT, even when the neg. isn't connected to anything right? And when you actually hook the converter neg. to batt 3 it actually starts outputting the higher voltage that makes the motor turn faster, is this correct?
What voltage does your BC output?

thanks,
Mario

[Turion]

Answer

Yes, thats correct.

The output voltage from the boost converter can be adjusted with the pot on the converter. I adjust it while connected normally to a battery so it is "pre set" to just over 14 volts output when I hook it up in the circuit.

[wantomake]

Yes, thats correct.

The output voltage from the boost converter can be adjusted with the pot on the converter. I adjust it while connected normally to a battery so it is "pre set" to just over 14 volts output when I hook it up in the circuit.

Dave,
Thanks, I had the same question but you just answered it here. Like your posted video about the boost converter setting. I have a bank of solar batteries to put in parallel to charge. Can I just use (3) batteries in series, and rest position to switch out and still maintain the charge on the bank.
Will build and test more. I also have a PWM but it doesn't run after the potential difference drops below 12 volts.
Thanks and will get more (larger) pics posted. I believe my Booster is same as yours in the video.
wantomake

[soundiceuk]

"You need five GOOD STRONG fully charged batteries that are not old and worn out."

I'm easily confused, is it five batteries or three?