Basic Free Energy Device

[Matthew Jones]

That looks like its working. Thats what I would expect to see. Don't settle for less. The charging should be more obvious the higher the charge batteries go.

Matt

[voltan]

hi all. i haven't got much to play with,so far i have charged some batteries with the circuit in pic 1, running a spindle motor at about 100 ma, not much. early observations suggest that the charging batt/s sorta dictate/regulate the voltage across it/them.and the motor presumably runs at the supply voltage minus the charge batt. voltage. apologies matt or dave if it's a wrong assumption. it's a bit of a guess as it's too spiky to measure the charge batts voltage with the motor running/pulsing, on my tired and possibly getting flaky dmm. the motor winding has a dcr of 2.6 ohms. this circuit is a bit like the re-emf circuit, which is a solid state version, but the load is between the pos's here and the spike recovery looks good on this too. i will add a 50 ma old school needle type ammeter in the spike return line. i tried some other brushless motors and this 1 kicks on switch-off the best but it still may not amount to much.** have seen 28ma on the meter.as thats a steady average of pulsed spikes, it's significant.
tip 122's have that diode built in. has no effect, i presume. vr1 makes starting/tweaking for max rpm easier.yellow box is a mini isolation transformer.
presumably it could/should have 1 or 2 batt's and a boost module on the left instead of as in the diagram.
pic 3a is a neat little joule thief inverter, by mr quantsuff. it's more efficient than most j.t's. 3b is slightly modded. hopefuly, brushless motors and flea power isn't too off topic. i guess whether you deal in milliamps or amps, the principles to study and learn are still the same.
cheers.

[Wistiti]

Alternative cheap motor

I have a couple of these car radiator fan motor. They also have 4 magnets inside.
Mabe we can use it for the Matt modification?? What do you think of it?

[wantomake]

Resting time

Why would you want 5 batteries???

1. Batt 1-First battery in series
2. Batt 2-Second battery in series hook to the load
3. Batt 3-resting
4. Batt 4-Charge Battery
5. Batt 5-resting.

Now just cycle the batteries 1 at a time.

The reason to rest the batteries is so they can switch states easier. If you take a battery that just discharged then try to immediately charge it you have to spend a little energy turning the ions around.
If you put a battery in a discharge point that has just been charged you loose alot of the surface charge real quick and loose energy turning the battery around.

You do not need 5 batteries but it helps.

Matt

Matt,
I'm glad you listed this in order as you did. The "resting" time is defined as the standing voltage before using the battery correct? Like Dave, and yourself I'm sure, my battery bone yard is full of different types that take different rest times. These marine batteries discharge slowly but take longer rest times.

Is this an important point to know about your circuit components? That's a good reason to get all same size, age, brand batteries in your setup. May be expensive, but I've stopped many experiments early from compromising exact setups. But I learned how the 3BGS works and to follow the instructions given as I progressed.

I have a stock MY1016 scooter motor coupled to the modified Matt motor. The latter is generating to a FWBR with smoothing capacitor. Generates up to 30~32 vdc without a load attached. The potential difference drops faster with this load attached.

My question. Can this be used to slow the voltage drop on the potential difference or help charge the charging batteries?

There's so much more to this setup than my experiences have taught me and look forward to where it will take us.

Good to see all the experimenters here,
wantomake

PS. At work, but asap will post pics

[Turion]

wantomake,
you could use the output of your generator to help charge the charging batteries, but that just makes your potential difference go away faster. You shouldn't charge the other batteries while they are discharging. BUT if it is putting out the voltage you say it is, it is running on 12 volts and putting out 32. I'd start looking at a way to direct that voltage back to the beginning to use it as the HIGH VOLTAGE SIDE rather than the two primary batteries. Then you have to start looking at how many amps it is and will it run the system rather than the batteries.

I want to address is that dropping potential difference. Every setup should be using the boost converter. Here is what I have been using:
150W DC DC Boost Converter 10 32V to 12 35V 6A Step Up Power supply module | eBay

Here is what I am going to try:
DC 3 32V Step Up to 5 35V Boost Converter Voltage Regulator Power Supply Module | eBay

The reason for the second one is that its operating voltage is all the way down at 3 volts. You should have switched batteries long before your potential difference gets down to 3 volts or you will probably have blown up battery 3. BOOM!

However I do NOT know if the second one will work. It MAY have that chip in it. I won't know until I get one. I have a schematic that I am going to share with Matt and see what he thinks, to use with these boost converters that won't work because of the chip in them.

[Wistiti]

wantomake,
you could use the output of your generator to help charge the charging batteries, but that just makes your potential difference go away faster. You shouldn't charge the other batteries while they are discharging. BUT if it is putting out the voltage you say it is, it is running on 12 volts and putting out 32. I'd start looking at a way to direct that voltage back to the beginning to use it as the HIGH VOLTAGE SIDE rather than the two primary batteries. Then you have to start looking at how many amps it is and will it run the system rather than the batteries.

I want to address is that dropping potential difference. Every setup should be using the boost converter. Here is what I have been using:
150W DC DC Boost Converter 10 32V to 12 35V 6A Step Up Power supply module | eBay




Here is what I am going to try:
DC 3 32V Step Up to 5 35V Boost Converter Voltage Regulator Power Supply Module | eBay

The reason for the second one is that its operating voltage is all the way down at 3 volts. You should have switched batteries long before your potential difference gets down to 3 volts or you will probably have blown up battery 3. BOOM!

However I do NOT know if the second one will work. It MAY have that chip in it. I won't know until I get one. I have a schematic that I am going to share with Matt and see what he thinks, to use with these boost converters that won't work because of the chip in them.

Hi Dave.
I think the 3v dc converter may be to low in power (watt) to be use in this setup...

[i_ron]

Here is what I am going to try:


However I do NOT know if the second one will work. It MAY have that chip in it. I won't know until I get one. I have a schematic that I am going to share with Matt and see what he thinks, to use with these boost converters that won't work because of the chip in them.

Dave, just a thought... what if you jumper the two negatives together on the one with the chip in it? If you do that it is no longer an isolated supply, but that is what we want?

Ron

[Turion]

Iron,

I have no idea. I would have to try that. And I want to try this other circuit with the boost converter in it. It doesn't have the negatives the boost converter going to the same place as the positive,which is what I think some of the boost converters don't like.
Dave

[Matthew Jones]

I have a couple of these car radiator fan motor. They also have 4 magnets inside.
Mabe we can use it for the Matt modification?? What do you think of it?

That looks like it will work but it have a few more poles so you'll have to guess the adjustments. Shouldn't be a biggy.

Matt

[Matthew Jones]

wantomake,
you could use the output of your generator to help charge the charging batteries, but that just makes your potential difference go away faster. You shouldn't charge the other batteries while they are discharging. BUT if it is putting out the voltage you say it is, it is running on 12 volts and putting out 32. I'd start looking at a way to direct that voltage back to the beginning to use it as the HIGH VOLTAGE SIDE rather than the two primary batteries. Then you have to start looking at how many amps it is and will it run the system rather than the batteries.

I want to address is that dropping potential difference. Every setup should be using the boost converter. Here is what I have been using:
150W DC DC Boost Converter 10 32V to 12 35V 6A Step Up Power supply module | eBay

Here is what I am going to try:
DC 3 32V Step Up to 5 35V Boost Converter Voltage Regulator Power Supply Module | eBay

The reason for the second one is that its operating voltage is all the way down at 3 volts. You should have switched batteries long before your potential difference gets down to 3 volts or you will probably have blown up battery 3. BOOM!

However I do NOT know if the second one will work. It MAY have that chip in it. I won't know until I get one. I have a schematic that I am going to share with Matt and see what he thinks, to use with these boost converters that won't work because of the chip in them.

Ya Dave, that one should work but its only 4 amps.

I may see if I can get design going for a 20 amp boost that runs between 6- 18 volt with no worries. I was reading this morning about it. Just uses a 555 timer and couple of other things. Should work, stay tuned.

Matt

[Turion]

Boost Module

Matt says that the way I have of running the boost circuit may work, so here it is.

[i_ron]

I want to address is that dropping potential difference. Every setup should be using the boost converter. Here is what I have been using:
150W DC DC Boost Converter 10 32V to 12 35V 6A Step Up Power supply module | eBay

.

to bad i have order the less winding turn boost converter like the first Dave show in is video... But as i understand it may work..?

Dave, Wistiti,

This is quite a robust little booster. It (mine ) uses the UC3843 SMPS contoller, a 98 amp N fet, the STP80NF70 and a STPS2045 double diode Schottky rated at 10 amps continuous per diode, so 20 amps continuous for the two diodes

So temperature will be the limiting factor, too hot and it will die. It is always possible to upgrade the heat sinks and it should run 10 amps +, all day.

Ron

[Matthew Jones]

Dave, Wistiti,

This is quite a robust little booster. It (mine ) uses the UC3843 SMPS contoller, a 98 amp N fet, the STP80NF70 and a STPS2045 double diode Schottky rated at 10 amps continuous per diode, so 20 amps continuous for the two diodes

So temperature will be the limiting factor, too hot and it will die. It is always possible to upgrade the heat sinks and it should run 10 amps +, all day.

Ron

Well you have to change the resistor set on the the UC3843 Pins 1 - 4 to allow the current to go up. Probably better to start from scratch, then to try to change an existing board.

Matt

[Wistiti]

Thank you Ron!

I am thinking of using a cooling fan on it... depending of how much amp it will drive. I have somes salvage from old computers towers.

how drop your 24vdc primary with this boost converter?

[Wistiti]

Matt says that the way I have of running the boost circuit may work, so here it is.

As i see it, my feeling is it may consume moore than it will put out...
Anyway, the best way to know it; is to test it!

Hope it will not blow component