Originally posted by citfta
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using the tools given...
Greetings:
We've been told to use a motor, a flywheel, and a generator.....
See the pic.
There you have a 2 hp motor, which consumes around 1500 watts when up to speed.
Next, you see a 1" piece of cold roll steel being used as a shaft and going through a couple of weight lifting weights. (I'll use around 90 lbs and they'll be balanced.)
To the right is a 7kw generator.
Pulleys and belts will be used to transfer energy. (pulley calculators are available online.)
The idea is to spin the flywheel to get it moving, run the motor from a battery/inverter system until it comes up to speed and engage the belt driving the flywheel.
When the motor/flywheel is up to speed, engage the belt for the generator and let it come up to speed.
Now, 7kw is available for use. Flip a switch removing the battery/inverter and power the motor from the 7kw generator. That leaves one with more than 5 kw for other use.
So, there you have it. Nothing exotic. Everything available off the shelf at Graingers, Ebay, Craigslist, and elsewhere.
Metal for the frame can be scrounged or picked up at scrap yards. (I have a frame from a gas driven generator that will house another unit after this one is done.)
The system can be modified to run more than one generator, or to use a tapered shaft generator from gasoline motor driven models.
My machinist friend, who told me of this, is building one of these. There are videos of working models YouTube.
This will 'do', while waiting on parts for 'the exotics' to get out of the machine shop.
glenAttached Files
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rewinding MY1016
Hi guys,
I'll be rewinding MY1016 according to Matt spec's and want to make sure I'm doing it right > once, not twice.
I just ordered more #23 wire hence, only one coil done a.t.m.
I watched Matt's YT and have read Tachyon's pdf. posted earlier in this thread.
It looks like Matt is using three strands of #24 wire while pdf. describes single strand of #23 and different number of turns. I'll be using 99 T of #23 for now unless, there is a significant difference in performance between 3 strand #24 and single #23. I have enough of #21 but would prefer to replicate first the pattern already tried/tested. I didn't find any reference to this detail, while going through the posts and just being curious.
Could someone chime in and tell me if my layout (attached pic) is correct?
Thank you
VAttached Files'Get it all on record now - get the films - get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened'
General D.Eisenhower
http://www.nvtronics.org
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Only One Way To Go
Hey V,
Don't confuse yourself by listening to multiple sources. If you are trying to rewind a MY1016 motor to Matt's specifications, then watch Matt's YouTube instruction film and do it like that!!! The instructions are very clear. You can't misunderstand what he is saying.
If you wind it like Matt says, it will DO what Matt says it will do. End of Story.
Good luck,
Peter
Originally posted by blackchisel97 View PostHi guys,
I'll be rewinding MY1016 according to Matt spec's and want to make sure I'm doing it right > once, not twice.
I just ordered more #23 wire hence, only one coil done a.t.m.
I watched Matt's YT and have read Tachyon's pdf. posted earlier in this thread.
It looks like Matt is using three strands of #24 wire while pdf. describes single strand of #23 and different number of turns. I'll be using 99 T of #23 for now unless, there is a significant difference in performance between 3 strand #24 and single #23. I have enough of #21 but would prefer to replicate first the pattern already tried/tested. I didn't find any reference to this detail, while going through the posts and just being curious.
Could someone chime in and tell me if my layout (attached pic) is correct?
Thank you
V
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Originally posted by Peter Lindemann View PostHey V,
Don't confuse yourself by listening to multiple sources. If you are trying to rewind a MY1016 motor to Matt's specifications, then watch Matt's YouTube instruction film and do it like that!!! The instructions are very clear. You can't misunderstand what he is saying.
If you wind it like Matt says, it will DO what Matt says it will do. End of Story.
Good luck,
Peter
I appreciate your reply and sharing your project
Thank you
V'Get it all on record now - get the films - get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened'
General D.Eisenhower
http://www.nvtronics.org
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Originally posted by Turion View Post
IF he does a video on the machine, I would consider purchasing it.
The video of Dr. Lindemann's conference presentation will be released Tuesday, August 9th.
Early shake out tests look very promising. So promising I'm looking at scaling it up in the next couple of days.
John K.
P.S. Hope you feel better soon Dave.
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Converter
Hi guys,
While awaiting wire for rewinding motor I tried to marry couple things together and run with off the shelf MY1016 and simple gen from other experiment.
I had couple DC-DC converters which look like the one we should be using except, it has variable current option with extra trimpot. One of them works just fine but in the second one constant current kicks in and doesn't allow to raise it's output as required. I guess, this maybe the same issue as with 12V-80V converter, where internal chip causes problems.
I'll order the one which is recommended earlier in this thread, just in case if the one I have decides not to cooperate anymore.
Gen part was just a test setup from last year experiment and has 6 neos in the rotor and two six filar #21 coils. They should be #24 but at that time #21 was all I had available around. I don't have any meters (except for the charging 100Ah marine battery) hooked up yet so no data to share, just my experience with DC-DC converter.
VAttached Files'Get it all on record now - get the films - get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened'
General D.Eisenhower
http://www.nvtronics.org
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What am I missing?
Originally posted by Matthew Jones View PostLook at any 3 battery switch. If the load is between the negatives your fluid goes black inside the battery.
Matt
The way I'm looking at it, if the load is a Bedini SG between the negatives on a 3 battery switch as far as the load is concerned it's still running on the potential difference between the two negatives. The current is still travelling through the circuit in the same direction.
I can't visualize what the difference is, than if the load was between the two positives.
What am I missing?
John K.
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Originally posted by John_K View PostHi Matt, not saying I disagree with you here - sounds like you have the dead batteries to back this up. But I'm having trouble understanding why this occurs.
The way I'm looking at it, if the load is a Bedini SG between the negatives on a 3 battery switch as far as the load is concerned it's still running on the potential difference between the two negatives. The current is still travelling through the circuit in the same direction.
I can't visualize what the difference is, than if the load was between the two positives.
What am I missing?
John K.
Matt
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Originally posted by Matthew Jones View PostOne plate hold electrons the other doesn't. If you pull electrons from the plate that doesn't you end up degrading the material. So you end up with a galvanic battery which deteriorates. IE aluminum copper in salt water.
Matt
Just one more question - I'm assuming you ran a 4 battery Tesla switch with the load in between the positives. Did you find the results any different than with the load in between the negatives?
John K.
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Originally posted by John_K View PostMatt, thanks for the quick reply. I think I get it now.
Just one more question - I'm assuming you ran a 4 battery Tesla switch with the load in between the positives. Did you find the results any different than with the load in between the negatives?
John K.
Only over the long run. With the positives you can condition the battery. With the negatives the batteries capacity drops.
Matt
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Originally posted by Matthew Jones View PostOnly over the long run. With the positives you can condition the battery. With the negatives the batteries capacity drops.
Matt
Positives it is then...
John K.
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Hi guys!
Today i have some more time to play with the system. I put a load (inverter with boost converter) betwin the positive and try to charge some old verry sulfated batt at the 3 position.
The system wont start so i put a load on the sulfated batt. My first load was a small 12v ligh bulb. It start the system but i have to adjust cause the load on the inverter was to big so i replace the cfl with a led... The 3rd batt charge to fast so i put another load on it to slow it down... I put back the cfl on the inverter to adjustb the charge rate on the 3rd position... and so on...
After a while i realise i am doing what Dave have said before in the 3gbs tread about the balancing betwin the load. So i stop trying charging the 3rd position batt and just keep stabilise the voltage of the series batt (1and2)and the 3rd position batt.
GUYS,PUT A LOAD ON THE 3RD POSITION IS A MUST!!! the system run stable since 2 hours and the voltage is quite stable! I estimate the power on the split positive side (inverter)at 50w and the power on the 3rd batt side at 80w and all the batt voltage stay merely at the same level!! Clearly it put out more than what it is use by the batt!
I just Wonder how long it will run this stable..??
ciao!Last edited by Wistiti; 08-22-2016, 01:50 AM.
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Run
Hours
Days
Weeks
Months (I've seen it)
It depends on how well you have it balanced and whether or not you mess with it.“Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
—Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist
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