Basic Free Energy Device

[Matthew Jones]

There is somewhere back in the mists of time an episode where Technocatcher introduced solid grounding with spectacular results (for a while)

Unfortunately Randy had spectacular results on a lot of things, but was unwilling to prove them when pinned down on the subject. He always did better than everyone else on any area of the project.

And on side note it has been defined on several occasions now that this is a builders thread. Comments and questions are welcome but long drawn out theory is not. Thank you for understanding.

..... I know Matt said he would post some schematics of how to incorporate the second boost module.

So this is an outline of where I am going with my build. It includes where to put amp meters so you can tune it.

The real goal for me is to reduce the motors ability to pass current. This will happen by pulsing it with a solid state driver and doing recovery on those pulses to feed back into the positive side of the motor. What ever ends up going to battery 3 is then captured there.
The motor then turns the gen, and I am going to release the specs on that soon, with models and diagrams in case anybody else wants to print one or just build by hand. I am waiting till I get mine going to make sure that it will be relatively tuned for a lenz free run, and also to see the output is correct.

The gen is used to charge battery 3. Based on the total amount of current going to battery 3 we will be able to adjust Boost 2 to move current up to the primaries. If all goes well the primaries and the b3 will be at the same voltage, hopefully something between 14-15 volt. At that point the output of the gen minus 20% will the standard load for the system.

For instant the gen put out 125 watts we would be able to pull a constant 100 watt load between the potentials while keeping the batteries charged. No rotating, no fuss, just usable power.

Maybe IF I can can all this going then I'll try to add in a computer to do some Shortest Path AI and make the thing self tuning and interactive.

I'll share as much as I can if anyone else is interested.

Matt

***PS One thing I forgot was the ammeters may not show the same amp draw. You may have 2 amp between the potentials and 1 going back up. By looking at the amps and the voltage in the batteries you should be able to formulate a ratio that keeps everything balanced.***

[Matthew Jones]

The other thing I wanted to talk about but in separate post is the boost converters.
I have almost got the PCB boards worked out. I'll be using an LTC3787. These little controller are really refined and very efficient. They do not require large input capacitors or smoothing caps.

One of the things I would like to be able to do for everyone is share the gerbers or make boards at cost so anyone else wants to assemble one can. They use about 35 dollars worth of parts each and they occupy about 3 square inch's of space. All the parts are SMD and easy to solder in.

One of the things that is different than the outlined models in the datasheet and on the web page is I have to remove the capacitors. The combination of capacitors and battery causes a ringing that can cost up to 30 percent of our power. So I've been looking for the correct combinations of capacitance to marry up with a battery. LT spice doesn't like some of the things I have been trying but its starting to come around.

Anyway my point being if anybody hasn't spent any time trying to understand the boost converters and what makes them better or worse Linear has a plethora of info on their stuff. There is so much for everyone to learn that it should be required 101 reading. If you grow to understand the "POTENTIALS" in a system then you can see truly why these are amazing little controllers predisposed to crossing the line between inefficient engineering and C.O.P. gains. A lot of possibilities!

Cheers
Matt

[Turion]

Ltc3787

Too bad we don't have some folks interested in building this stuff. The 1,000 lot price for the LTC3787 is $4.00 but the cheapest I can find a single lot price is $23.00. and Linear is located fairly close to me in Malpitas, CA. I might have to stop by there and see if I can get a better deal on a few of those.

[Matthew Jones]

Too bad we don't have some folks interested in building this stuff. The 1,000 lot price for the LTC3787 is $4.00 but the cheapest I can find a single lot price is $23.00. and Linear is located fairly close to me in Malpitas, CA. I might have to stop by there and see if I can get a better deal on a few of those.

I swear to god I can't figure out where you shop. $7.54 per

LTC3787EGN#PBF Linear Technology | Integrated Circuits (ICs) | DigiKey

Tally the whole thing up its about 30 dollars cause all the other parts are real cheap and real small.

Matt

[SkyWatcher]

Hi all, noticing an even drop in voltage on the 3 batteries, all 3 batteries settled to 12.7 volts after nights rest.
So, i do have a MY6812B - 24 volt motor, taken from a scooter that had damaged batteries.
It is smaller in diameter than the motors you folks are modifying, but it is a bit longer, i wonder if it will work.
It seems to run well off the potential difference, meaning it has good rpm to run a generator or something.
It is drawing .25 amps at 12.52 volts between positives, unloaded.
Also using the boost converter hooked to 3rd battery, sending a little juice back to series batteries.
peace love light

[ewizard]

I'm not real familiar with this place but they have the LTC3787 chip for $5.04 in quantities of one. Free shipping - No minimum order if in U.S. and free international if order is over $50. That apparently is a special for the month of October only.
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/lt...ampaign=FC2015

[Matthew Jones]

Hi all, noticing an even drop in voltage on the 3 batteries, all 3 batteries settled to 12.7 volts after nights rest.
So, i do have a MY6812B - 24 volt motor, taken from a scooter that had damaged batteries.
It is smaller in diameter than the motors you folks are modifying, but it is a bit longer, i wonder if it will work.
It seems to run well off the potential difference, meaning it has good rpm to run a generator or something.
It is drawing .25 amps at 12.52 volts between positives, unloaded.
Also using the boost converter hooked to 3rd battery, sending a little juice back to series batteries.
peace love light

If its got 4 magnets it should work might not have as much power. Make sure you can rotate the end caps with little modification.

Matt

[SkyWatcher]

Hi all, Hi matt, thanks for the info., i 'm not sure what the inside looks like, have not opened it up.
I have run it for around 6 hours now and it is drawing just over 3 watts, motor is warm, though the loaded battery voltages are stable and slightly climbing on each one.
Though i can't be really sure what is happening until i stop the system and let the battery voltages settle.
I think i will let it run this way overnight and then check running voltages, then let it sit for awhile and see what the battery voltages look like.
peace love light

[desa]

Hi Matt.
i see you are way ahead in your vision where all this is going. Not that I neceserly understand it completely but I can see where you are going. Controlling amp entering motor is a definitly priority. Having some time to work with the setup I usually have to stop experiment because my bat3 is overcharged. For now I would love to see the way to transfer that surplus to the series batteries and would try second bust converter as your diagram suggest. The biggest problem I have is wasted energy I calculated 18w on the variable resistor. Today I managed partially to replace it with cordless drill motor and happily my modified motor corresponded with increase in speed. Problem is that I had no control of variable input going in it. Newethless speed was good and power too so definitly useable as additional power for future generator you are designing. I would definitly stay on sideline to see what you come up with before starting the build. I also attached larger high voltage DC generator and managed to produce 230 VDC with it lighting standard CFL 20w nicely. Modified motor turned nicely but it was mismatch with generator and I had nothing at hand to bring it down to 24vdc to reuse it. I run at 2A recirculating and 2A on mod motor maintaining potential difference at 2.2V. In regulating modified motor speed I think we should take in consideration that load increase on battery 3 corresponds in motor speed increase already and loading it with work as it slows down we must correspondingly increase load on the battery 3 to compensate, If mismatch happens and motor slows down battery 3 voltage starts to increase and potential difference drops debalancing system. I am sure you know what I am talking about. I only wont to point out to this segment that must be taken in consideration in regulating it and regarding placement of motor regulator in your diagram.
Hope it make sense.
David.

Unfortunately Randy had spectacular results on a lot of things, but was unwilling to prove them when pinned down on the subject. He always did better than everyone else on any area of the project.

And on side note it has been defined on several occasions now that this is a builders thread. Comments and questions are welcome but long drawn out theory is not. Thank you for understanding.



So this is an outline of where I am going with my build. It includes where to put amp meters so you can tune it.

The real goal for me is to reduce the motors ability to pass current. This will happen by pulsing it with a solid state driver and doing recovery on those pulses to feed back into the positive side of the motor. What ever ends up going to battery 3 is then captured there.
The motor then turns the gen, and I am going to release the specs on that soon, with models and diagrams in case anybody else wants to print one or just build by hand. I am waiting till I get mine going to make sure that it will be relatively tuned for a lenz free run, and also to see the output is correct.

The gen is used to charge battery 3. Based on the total amount of current going to battery 3 we will be able to adjust Boost 2 to move current up to the primaries. If all goes well the primaries and the b3 will be at the same voltage, hopefully something between 14-15 volt. At that point the output of the gen minus 20% will the standard load for the system.

For instant the gen put out 125 watts we would be able to pull a constant 100 watt load between the potentials while keeping the batteries charged. No rotating, no fuss, just usable power.

Maybe IF I can can all this going then I'll try to add in a computer to do some Shortest Path AI and make the thing self tuning and interactive.

I'll share as much as I can if anyone else is interested.

Matt

***PS One thing I forgot was the ammeters may not show the same amp draw. You may have 2 amp between the potentials and 1 going back up. By looking at the amps and the voltage in the batteries you should be able to formulate a ratio that keeps everything balanced.***

[HuntingRoss]

Right now I feel like so FEW people are involved that we will be LUCKY to get a dozen folks to build the little motor that is at the center of all this, along with the circuit we are using. But we will see.

Dave

Hi Dave

I have recently come to this thread and am excited by the proposition. However I'm on page 7 of 50 and keeping tabs on these new updates. I am not a natural electronics 'type' but I can build basic stuff if the information is there...so all I have to 'offer' here is replication, not novel design.

From what I've seen on other threads is the difficulty for others to replicate a design which kills confidence in the initial claims.

If I can catch up to the 'step-by-step' post(s) for winding the motor, the switching etc then hopefully I will be able to contribute to the group that verifies findings and outputs.

Until then Dave and others, keep the faith.

mark

[Matthew Jones]

Hi Dave

I have recently come to this thread and am excited by the proposition. However I'm on page 7 of 50 and keeping tabs on these new updates. I am not a natural electronics 'type' but I can build basic stuff if the information is there...so all I have to 'offer' here is replication, not novel design.

From what I've seen on other threads is the difficulty for others to replicate a design which kills confidence in the initial claims.

If I can catch up to the 'step-by-step' post(s) for winding the motor, the switching etc then hopefully I will be able to contribute to the group that verifies findings and outputs.

Until then Dave and others, keep the faith.

mark

I have a video series on how to wind the motor...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=faZI...7WsknDG4439vV3

I don't know you so I cannot tell you its an easy thing to do. We are not even promising a result. Plenty have already had good results but they worked to get there.
You can pick up about 10 pages back. The beginning we we're looking at other things so its relatively invalid by now.
If you have more questions just ask.

Matt

[Turion]

mark,

Matt showed you the mechanics of how to wind the motor, but if you go back to where he told you to, you will see that the winding wire (#30 now) and number of turns has changed. Desa has also shown some changes in the timing that are a little tricky to deal with because to do it you have to leave the bolts out of the motor that hold it together. I'm working on something for my 3D printer that would externally take the place of those bolts that I would gladly send out to folks for the cost of shipping plus $1.00 if I can get my dang printer up and running. I'm not out to make money on this but I don't want to go broke either, or run out of printer wire.

Glad to see you here. We need more folks giving this a shot.

[blackchisel97]

I've been busy with urgent outdoor projects (roofing/shingling etc.) and had to leave everything else on a back burner for the moment but I can help with manufacturing pcb's for Matt's circuit, if needed.
@Dave - I did notice same "anomalies" - reduced amp draw and increased speed in my motors with back plate adjusted. They're MY1016 and core width (without the frond/end caps) is 2.25 inch. I need to wash bearings and put good lubricant or replace them. I was blaming the motor or winding but it seems, the bearings are causing heating problem.

Cheers

V

[Matthew Jones]

I've been busy with urgent outdoor projects (roofing/shingling etc.) and had to leave everything else on a back burner for the moment but I can help with manufacturing pcb's for Matt's circuit, if needed.
@Dave - I did notice same "anomalies" - reduced amp draw and increased speed in my motors with back plate adjusted. They're MY1016 and core width (without the frond/end caps) is 2.25 inch. I need to wash bearings and put good lubricant or replace them. I was blaming the motor or winding but it seems, the bearings are causing heating problem.

Cheers

V

They (the bearings) can do that especially if they are from used motor or cheap knockoff manufacturer. I always change mine to higher grade bearing and add some good lube.

I am doing up the PCB for the motor controller now. I can do isolation routing. How are making yours and can you drill? If people want them we could split up the work by the location.

Matt

[blackchisel97]

Hi Matt,

Motors were new/old stock which means, never been used and collected dust in a warehouse but possibly lesser quality. It would be probably worth replacing bearings with a good ones but I'll try washing/lubricating first.

I can do silk/mask/gold plating and drilling with diameters specified in CAD/Gerber files. The largest boards I have done were plate antennas for MWO - 12inch round, double sided, double thick copper and gold plated (immersion).
My cost, depending on the size and quantity (at least 20-25 pcs) will not exceed $20 per piece, including worldwide shipping inside a gift card. Otherwise, PO will charge me close to $5 which is ridiculous and rip off.

Cheers
V